Plastic need heat 1:25

Thank you for your Video , As a beginner its censusing which one is better printer , can you plz tel me Saturn 4 Ultra or Anycubic photon M5S Pro . which one to buy

I TRYED

NO GUYS ITS FAKE

Hi there, by any chance, do you hear back from Elegoo whether they are planning to release a newer wash and cure station that could fit the Saturn 4 Ultra’s build plate entirely or perhaps a new feature like drying, since the last one was released 3 years ago.

Great breakdown I have been having a similar problem with my Sovol and was starting to pull my hair out as to why

Wow. Thank you so much! This is the second time you've saved my prints. I encountered the mysterious blobs issue a while back and after seeing your video, reformatted the SD card I use and got smooth prints again (I now assume memory fragmentation made it slow, as it had been used for astrophotography with many write/erase/rewrite cycles). Now, I had a slight layer shift issue, so slight that I couldn't tell if it was Z binding or actual layer shift. I adjusted the bolts on my rods like you did out of despair after trying everything, and it now prints good as new! Thank you so much for making these videos. They are treasures of information, so well explained and documented, so useful!

hello sir could I get saturn 4 Ultra print setting sir

When you tried to reproduce the defect again, why didn't you dried clean the rods ? You assumed again what was the fix

It was Machine gods work, probably wrong kind of incense burned or out of sync prayer. Hail the Omnisiah!

Thank you for the video ! Nice presentation and job ! .. so about the accessories I will not going to drill the lid but use a sticker 😅😅 also good idea ! Thank you again

Hmm, what if it's not truth? and you could start exploring Arduino without prior experience at all.

HANDLE - Get the STL files for my MOD: www.printables.com/model/870460-handle-for-the-elegoo-saturn-4 2 versions: with Screws (needs drilling) or Adhesive (Double-Sided Tape)

Hy have ball screw ?

Printing petg too hot made blobs for me. Cooled it down and problem solved.

For anyone still lost or just curious Z binding can happen numerous ways. Your rods can be bent The rod(s) may not truly be perpendicular to the gantry (you may have a loose rod or improperly installed) Your gantry may be a little tight There may be physical obstruction within the threads that can cause minor friction thats hard to notice - this can be debris or some gnarled threads. Loosening the screws to a minor degree can potentially solve some minor tolerance issues but they should not be so loose that they float

great video, indeed you know how to tell interesting stories to grab the attention. Keep up the good work. I was looking for a CNC slicer. Thanks.

how can we disable this on the Ender 3 V# KE? I cannot find this setting anywhere in the software or the printer itself

I have the S2. It's great. STL? STL? STL? STL? STL? The exit holes are indeed.... Not that practical.... Bet you never shared the STL in the 7 months this video was posted? but you say you will in the vid. or do you just not read comment's after posting and just farm comments/views? Maybe a harsh comment from my side, but it's a common thing for content creators lately, and therefore i wouldn't be surprised...

Thanks for the awesome video. Can you tell me the height of the unit when the lid is open? I want to make a hutch for my desk to store stuff on and block some of the light. Any info would be great. Thanks

BMG extruder gears do that too

Did you post the file for the handle anywhere I would like to print it

I still have one and it hasn't worked since 2019. I'd love to bring it back to life!

Does the Power loss recovery gcode you provide Work on a older Creality cr10s pro? Thank you for the information and help by the way!

Awsome

are you brazilian ? i hear a slight accent :) great video, just ordered a second hand ipod classic 160 gb

Con todos los cagasos que se pego le salía mejor comprarse otro iPod classic de 2da mano.

🤌🙏🌻✅🌱♥️

Holes are because you have bubbles in the vat

1:36 one hand wich can slip away. that V shape dont help.

If I'm not mistaken.. you can disable the power recovery in CURA as well and it stays off until you remove the line of code ..it's been awhile since I did mine but all I had to do is Add this to the starting gcode in Cura M413 S0 ;

Hey! Nice video. What's the book name?

E aí! I used to 3d print back when it was extremely finicky, and now I'm back and loving it. I haven't purchased a dryer yet. Would you recommend the S4 for single printer use but many multi color prints? It's obvious that the S4 is one of the best, but just trying to find a sweet spot so I don't buy the most expensive versions of everything if it's not necessary. Obrigado antecipado!!

🔥 geni.us/Saturn4Ultra (Elegoo's Store) 🔥 geni.us/Saturn4 (Elegoo's Store) Affiliate links and I earn commissions - I appreciate your support ❤

Is that IPA you are spraying with before removing the print from the print bed? :)

Looks interesting, does it need a special type of resin ? (the "V2.0" resin they list as add-on)

フリップアップカバーを開けるために、本体裏にはどれくらい空間の距離が必要なのでしょうか？

A couple of questions. Did they go back to a lead screw? Or is it a ballscrew? Looks like a leadscrew but I have a hard time believing that. How much resin do you think you can fit in the vat with the tilt function on? Hoping the absolute max is 1L or more.

I know this is an old video, but maybe the most honest one I've seen so far. Opening an iPod isn't done during a coffee break. It took me two years. I used my iPod (Gen6) when I was working but when I retired it was just lying around until I picked up and couldn't get it to work - dead battery??? Ordered a new battery and started to pry the iPod open but gave up until I started again just a few weeks ago. In the process I had broken the metal fram inside, the screen and the front and back of the player were badly scratched and bent. Now I have gotten a new fancy body in a coooool purple colour with new clickwheel, screen, metal frame, battery and a SSD and will get on assembling the iPod but the connector for the ribbon cable to the screen is slightly broken (a small piece broke loose) and the 128GB SDD was a 256GB disc when I unpacked it ... will it work?! I also got a third (I ordered a working iPod too ...) iPod that also need some TLC so I have a new front and clickwheel and battery on the way. Parts can be found on AliExpress too. Decided to go for a blue front and yellow clockwheel as it happens to be the colour of the Swedish and Ukrainian flags. Also ordered the correct "can openers" and I know how to open the darn thing without breaking it.

How did you test if that latching mechanism is "perfect every time", didn't see a dial test indicator - just curious because it's a feature on a part of the printer I had trouble with in the past on other machines - overall repeatability.

Nice use of the bib! I really enjoyed this review

Less height on Z, a lead screw instead of a ball screw. I would have run at this machine if it had the same build height as the 3 and a heated tank. I think they (mostly) missed the mark with this machine and I'm hoping the 5 will be better next year.