Thank you!! I have a special needs son that can get out of the front door way too fast. Got the magnetic strike plate, and installed it on the outer door (metal screen door). Installed an outlet powered by a TP-link Kasa smart switch. We have an Alexa routine set up to turn our front room lights to 100%, turn off the switch (unlock the door), announce that the door is unlocked, wait for 10 seconds, power the switch (lock the door), announce the door is locked, then turn off the lights. Having the smart switch allows me to unlock the door at night from outside when I get home late. Recently set up Home Assistant (thanks again for those incredible tutorials). Now we also have NFC tags on our door frame so we can just hold our phones up to trigger the same 10 second unlock automation. DrZzs helping parents of special needs kids get some Zzzs knowing our kids can't escape the house at night!

Thanks Doc. I've been putting this off but now it is time. My locks will be for bedroom doors, similar to your senario for the inside room. If someone breaks in to the house and we are in one of the bedrooms, push a button and the lock will be activated. By the time they get the door kicked in, Mr. Smith & Wesson will be waiting. That extra few seconds could be the difference between life or death. My thinking is a smart outlet to supply power. A 433mhz wall mounted button will send a signal (via Sonoff rfbridge/Tasmota) to turn on the outlet, thus locking the door. Bench testing just around the corner. Oh, and a second button hidden somewhere else (kitchen or pantry) will also operate the lock to unlock it if needed.

Nice!!! I’ve been using Node Red to do the three way . This take out one point of failure!! Buying two of this switch.

I enjoyed the hell out of this video. Very new to all this and just clicking on anyone my searches dig up but man what a find. Love the format and great advice, thanks

First time I have seen the striker plate magnetic lock used that way. Have to remember that one. Nice video.

OMG Perfect! I've been thinking of getting a smart lock but yeh. I dont like its closed source nature and price.

......FYI the Magnet lock sold by other suppliers has four wires....two for power and two for "door contact"... a control circuit uses this to confirm the door is closed. This will be one big plus in your case by using the "lock closed" icon to show the door is closed which is handy when you need confirmation your house is secure (doors are closed)..... In high security applications this contact is used to detect one door closed before the next door opens.....used to allow one person through at a time (just another application) In the case of the garage door lock... one just needs to send a "pulse" for it to open.(add a buzzer to confirm the lock is opening when using it on a outside gate at your front door)......thanks once again for great videos ....

My wife will be mad!!!that's a good one!!I love all your content!All the best from Romania!!

Ur very watchable man nicely edited videos too nice pace and concise very cool stuff I want an electromagnetic lock....

I liked your video very much, i am working on barricade door locks, can you help me which RFID,Wifi chips to use for my lock?

Great video. I agree with Bob Moran about a battery. In some cases, you would not need it to fail open for fire, because there are multiple exits. I'm in Florida, so occasionally you have multi-day power outages due to large storms. So maybe just using a dedicated UPS would be the way to go. Or better yet, 12v battery and solar backup. One other thing, and perhaps its overkill, but it would be very inexpensive to do a lock at the top AND bottom. The equipment may be in the way a bit, but you would have much greater stopping force. A keypad is really needed though, as someone else mentioned. Being outside you really want a quick way in. NFC might be easier though.

Awesome video as always. I just wonder if your super glue is same as my super glue in South Africa because I would never ever use it for that application. We have something specifically called cable glue for his purpose.

Extra security for nefarious power cuts. Wire in a small 12v lead acid battery like the PX12072-HG to maintain the lock on power cut and maintain charge from house power. House on fire: Power on = normal exit, Mains power off battrey up = normal exit , Mains down and battery dead = fail safe unlock.

Don't use the supplied latch with your electric strike, it's not deadlatching so the door can be shimmed open easily. Electric strikes require adding some play between the latch and the electric strike which means if you have a similar shaped latch but one with a dead latch triggering button in it that button can slip inside or be forced inside the strike hole and make it non deadlatching amd shimmable. What you want is an auto deadlatching mortice lock like a lockwood 3572 which has the deadlatching trigger above the latch or bolt, the button presses against the face plate of the elec strike at all times when it is closed and gives you reliable dead latching.

Also, please know I AM NOT trying to troll or beat up your video. I am really happy I came across this as it's going to solve a lot of issues for me! That said I do have a couple security notes: I do not think the proper wording for the surface mount is to install it on the "Outside" of the door. Well, actually in your 'case,' it might be but not in all 'cases'. Bear with me here... If you are exiting a room/home or let's call this exiting your secure area and your door swings toward you or into your secure area then yes. The proper term for the installation would be to place this on the outside of the door/door case. But now, in turn, let's swing the other way. If you are exiting your "secure area" and the door swings away from you then you would do the installation on the inside of the door/door case. Another note. mind you this is truly my personal opinion so don't roast me. For me, I would only use a surface-mount lock on doors that swing out/away from my "secure area" (away from me while exiting vs toward me). As personally feel it is a security risk to have the lock mechanism accessible from the outside of the secure area. So my PERSONAL opinion is that for doors that open into my "secure area," I would use the latch as you did on your dirty garage door (btw, little spray paint cleans that right up. 😂). One other thought is In a lot of industrial buildings, I have seen these magnetic locks installed they have a motion sensor on the inside right above the door. So that the door can always be locked but as someone is exiting the door it automatically unlocks. Also, I personally do not care for the idea that during a power outage, all my doors would be unlocked so I plan to have some kind of battery backup.

Really enjoy your channel.

Very well done and also funny.

Wiring for the sonoff and the magnetic lock How do I wire it ???

You're awesome keep the good work up!

I'm wondering if there is a zwave version of this s-on-off, might make things more easier?

Excellent video. I will try to figure out a way to apply it to sliding glass doors.

Good video entertaining to say the least your a good speaker

Brou you are in other level Máster, thanks a Lot for this

I love this. We're developing a security protocol for our church in case of the need for a lockdown and this solution will be perfect. Now, here's the challenge. Find us an electronic lock solution to retrofit vinyl sliding glass doors so we don't need a key to unlock them. ;)

Hey there, excellent video and really helpful! I was wondering if we can add somehow users to this smart lock. We need to give weekly access to people on specific time zones for each account, is this possible? Thank you again and have a great 2019!

Awesome I have to try this for my garage but if the power goes off, does this mean your house would be open ?

Thanks for this video! Have u tried to use a template for make a lock appear correcly both in HA and HomeKit? I used this method for combine a Sonoff with a Xiaomi Door Sensor for make a perfect garage opener with Homekit support :)

Great Video ! ...Is there a way to get this done without a power supply ? Say for use inside a cabinet ?

Love your videos. Although I'm using Pimatic for my Home automation. 😁

Great video! Love the floating head. Made me laugh. I don't get why the flashing and I know there is some benefits to it, I just haven't looked into it. Maybe you can explain why? It be nice. To me, using an MHCOZY is a faster way of doing it.

Dude, you are awesome.

Extra comment ~ super glue to place and hide the wire is genius! 😀🤘🏼 ,,If you thought fo that yourself you’re very smart👏🏼🤷🏻‍♂️😄👌🏼

Great. Now we need a way to integrate this to NFC tags, Mifare or maybe Bluetooth so we can call them really smart locks so I can ditch my expensive Salto Systems Solution.

i like your calm man

Hey man! Nice video, I've been looking forward to this since you mentioned that you ordered these parts. Do you think you could do a tour video showing off all the products you've done up to this point?

Hi, I have used a lock I setup from this video for many years but now I need to migrate to ESPhome but Cannot work out the best Yaml configuration to get an electric strike to open for 10 seconds and close again whilst reporting open or closed depending on whether the relay is active or not. Any chance you can assist or do a video on Electric door locks with ESPhome? Cheers!

Hi, DrZzs Coud you give more info about flip switch with the delay setup on 8:32 ?

Hey Dr Zzs. I've flashed several sonoff devices before using the FTDI adapter & ESPEasy. However, when I try it with the Sonoff SV (more than one) I get an instant error when I press Flash; "Unhandled exception has occurred" etc etc. I can't get around it... Any ideas?

another 10 out of 10 Yes I i call then "Sonoff" cant call then "S" onoff sounds like a differance product just got 2 Sonoff in the mail so Ill try that new way. Thanks again for the Videos

Love the alignment gag at 8:02 ;)

@DrZzs, I don't have any questions right now, I just wanted to say, you're very, very cool.

hey can't this be done just by using a smart plug for the lock's power transformer? not to diminish what is presented here, (thanks btw) but I think it would be far easier that way

Ever measure the power draw for the electro magnet?

for the strike plate Id prefer fail secure... otherwise your home is unlocked on a power failure... you can always open door normally even if no power or fire.

Nice and cheap solution.

Hi. I enjoy your videos very much. Can sonoff be used to control 208-240v wall a/c unit with alexa?

HAHA! You had a hard time counting to 4.... LOL Seriously though, nice video as usual. I've been wanting to put a strike lock on the front door with an RFID sensor. I would get the "Fail Safe NO" version so it stays locked if power is lost, but you could still get out in case of a fire from the regular door knob.

I need your help i have a 3D printer i need a cooling system for the board unit which turns on automatically when the enclosure reaches a certain temp i have the temp sensor can you help :) :)

Thanks for the vid. I will like to make this and add a fingerprint scanner for access? Is that a simple project? I'm able to follow this guide easily

that is really sick.

Anouther well done video. Do you have access to Home assistant remotely? I haven’t found any good up to date videos on how to do that and I can’t figure it out on my own. I got Duck DNS installed and that’s as far as I got. ☹️

Assa Abloy have door locks that can be fully controlled and even without electricity they can be unlocked from inside by simply using the handle, including the deadlock

Lock snob nitpicker here. I looked at the "12V Electric Strikes Lock Fail Safe NC Cathode For Access Control Wood Metal Door". Unfortunately it looks like it wouldn't be able to activate the dead latch without some tinkering when used with a regular latch like Dr Zzzs did and the latch that comes with it isn't a dead latch at all. That means it's easy to bypass with a credit card or shrum tool. I wouldn't consider it suitable for anything but keeping away nuisance traffic without modification. Cutting power would be a second bypass but that could be overcome with backup power.

The only issue is they are failsafe locks.. We use maglocks at work they are great, until you loss power then the whole building is open to the world. I would strongly consider a battery backup in the setup.

Hi, At 8:33, when you say "With a flip of the switch", where did the switch come from, is it connected to your mains/your lights and how did you fit it/what did you fit TO it? I'll forgive you for not actually flipping it ;) Cheers.

How did you wire this all together? At work I have a pneumatic push button wired in line to the push button to break the 12v circuit that also connects to our control panel.

A couple of questions - forgive my noobieness (is that even a word??) - You didn't show the actual wiring of the lock to the Sonoff. The wire you have running down the door jam from the surface mount lock - is that feeding power from the outlet to the Sonoff controller and then up to the lock? Do you have a video which explains more about the Sonoff low voltage controller?

is there fail secure latching options (12V)?

Would this work outdoors, eg on a side gate (as long as there is a power source)? Or would the actual lock components need to be weather-proofed? Obviously the electronics would need to be housed in a waterproof case.

On the surface mount mag lock you can get them much bigger and stronger but ya if the door is going to fail first doesn't matter much

A little bit of this turkey goes a long way!!

Again very nice video. Thank you.! Want to share it cracks me up the recurring wife approval theme. Not just here but HA in general. Not implying i dictate it's just I'm still at early marriage stages and my ideas are still brilliant 😁😁

I'm into home automation and use it for stuff like lights, doorbell , fridge door left open alarm .But i'm not yet sold on the smart lock. I prefer a manual lock and key for that one as there are just too many fail scenarios i can foresee.I think certain things are better left non automated.

please drzzs do you have any plans to make a diy video doorbell or any ideas on a good one ?

drzzss you have to setup pulsemode on tasmota to 10-15 sec when trigggered to hold it than to switch

LOVE THIS GUY

if you had of drilled right through your door frame and 2x4 and pushed to wire in to the cavity with your plate the wire would have been in the wall for future automation projects but i like your video found it informative.

Great video !

The lock is only a strong as the strike late in the door frame if you use the screws that come with the standard lock which is about an inch maybe an inch and a quarter long it only goes through part of the frame if you replace the same screws with 3 in sheetrock screws it won't go through the frame and into the two by four that the door frame is nailed to. you will greatly increase your security on a standard door lock the most contractors are known for. You can also Mount that magnetic side lock I using a router to make your cut into the door frame or drilling several holes in the pattern and then chiseling it out that way you won't compromise the side of the door frame and it will be much stronger in the long run. that's how I mounted my magnetic lock

good job sir

Hi everyone, I have an electronic old fashion lock that works with key or with a pulse button that opens it automatically just when I push it. Is there any sonoff or way to make it smart also that it works with the key, the button but also from sonoff or any other device Smartphone app?

I do access control from time to time at work. Having the Mag lock unlock when the power is cut is a bad thing if you're using these locks for external entries. Typically there is a Battery Backup to keep the Magnet energized when there is no power, I typically recommend a SMP3 from Altronix for single Door use. Now for emergencies such as medical, police or fire there is a huge slew of ways. For fire it is typically attached to the Fire system in some way that latches the REX (egress or Request to Exit) button until it is either reset or when the Fire System is disarmed. Now taking something that is used for a Commercial/Industrial setting and using it for Home use I would use the same equipment but include a Battery Backup, have the Egress Button wired to break the Ground connection to the Magnet. Include a Smoke detector that you can toss into Home Assistant and either have it wired into the Magnet as well or even use a ESP control a Relay for egress. However keep in mind you'll want the ESP to be on a Battery Backup as well. I'm planning to deploy a Maglock for my Master Bedroom Door, the Kids keep going in there when we are not home. Have a RFID tag for Ingress and Touch Sensor for Egress. Since I have my Alarm Panel in the closet I can tap into that for Power and Battery Backup. I'm currently working on getting my Smoke Detectors into Home Assistant, might try a Shelly and use it to seek the signal line so when it sees Voltage or Current it can tell HA to notify.

Hi DrZzs can this use with RFID using a RC522 . nice video

Hi I wank ask how can i connect the lock with nfc reader so i can open the door with phone or card ?

"S on/off" :D I have a feeling that guy tried to troll you. No one, I repeat, no one I know pronounces "Sonoff" that way.

I don't understand anything but I really want to start learning robotics and this seems like a good start :(( I wish there's like a how to basic for this guide that also explains the terms he's using

It would be nice if u can demonstrate how to implement a NFC card system to open the door outside!

Hi DrZzs. Are you using presence detection with HomeAssistant? Which method? What about using RFID to unlock the doors "magically"?

The world anxiously-awaits the ESPEasy evaluation...

will this flash work with the regular sonoff too? as far as you know?

you are the best influencer ever, greetings from mexico, i love your channel

I have a lock like it, i can connect to the fire alarm control panel, if the fire alarm goes off, it unlocks all doors connected to the panel

Just about to order the parts but one question, how do you decide for how long the door is unlocked after pressing the button... Don't have any S on/Off's ;) but was planning on using a Wemos D1 instead!

Dr zzs one question, how can i do if i want to open door from outside, without smarphone, exist something like a magnetic card ot other sistem to open from outside?

What are your thoughts about the issue of your house unlocking in the event of a power-failure (or someone cutting the power outside your house?) It seems to me, the way to handle it is kind of what you had with your garage (but the lock MUST NOT have a fail-safe mode). Meaning, if the power is cut by some bad people (to also inhibit your security system from going off) the the lock should REMAIN locked, but a person trying to escape a fire, could simply turn the handle, as they would already expect to do. Can these locks have the fail-safe deactivated to support this? Thanks, Daniel

Is there any way to add in a number pad to open the locks with?

Wow this is so complicated!!!

I didn't really understand how the cathode lock works . How And where is the sonoff connected to it? Is there a button to open it? I got confused even you said if either one is locked out will be unlocked ( how will it lock from home assistant then).

I'm just two minutes into the video but ... if the power goes out your door opens? What about blackouts?

How its going to protrect from theft?

Have you tried making Self opening / Closing (Swinging mechanism) door at reasonable price.

from security point 64kg is way to light , use atleast 250kg ones and make sure to align the electro magnet and plate correct otherwhise they stil are easy to pull loose and make sure its a solid door otherwhise it isnt worth it and make sure you can`t pry open the door because if you have a point to wedge something in you still can put enough force on them to pull apart. but would not advice to use it for a entry door from outside and it being a main locking device.

hi, can you please share the wiring diagram ?

It seems to me you could just take an $5 off the shelf smart plug and plug the lock into that, then you can use the Alexa app on your phone (or the echo in your house) to lock and unlock. You could even use geofencing to have it unlock when you get home and lock when you leave. I would also probably have a wall wart charging a small 12v battery and run the lock off that, so when the power goes out my house isn't unlocked.

Did not know you could get these so cheap. Biggest issue is cutting power causes house to be wide open so don't put one on your front door! I would want to attach a motion sensor that will unlock as I approach, though. Especially on those doors at my house that are only closed to keep the AC zones separated

The fail safe is a problem. If someone want to access your house or room, they just shut the breaker or power to the house/room. Just like safe-lock feature in a movie. Can this feature be disable?

thanks :)

1:07 So if I understand correctly, all what burglar has to do, is disconnect your house from power from outside, what is not a big deal and everything would unlock itself.

any way we can get the part list and schematic on the sonoff?

Why not use an electric strike that is normally open? If the strike won’t release in a fire you could always turn the knob like every other door you’ll encounter but won’t lose security in a power outage