You might consider making the external handle one that has a key for an override. That way if there is ever a failure of the electronic lock (or a power failure), you can still get in your office.

for the power just drill a hole through the back of the box into the shop and then you can use whatever method you want to connect it.

Also, for anyone wanting to DIY your own security door, mount your electronics on the INSIDE of the secure room. The only thing that should be outside is the reader. Otherwise someone can open up the electronics and bypass the security features. (LPL has a few videos showcasing this)

You were told that’s it was unappealing huh? 😂 happens to me too sometimes. Awesome project as usual!

As someone who also has a locked area (my attic access and server closet) with a fingerprint reader, I would suggest adding a couple more of your finger prints from other finger. I cannot count the times I locked myself out because I cut/burned my finger, it was dirty, etc. I finally added a couple other fingers. Also you should put a hole through the wall and plug it in from inside your shop area. I assume the significant other doesn't care so much about what goes on in that room. If that is not an option either you can get flat ribbon speaker wire that you can barely see once applied on the wall and painted over. You would need to do you AC-DC conversion before your box, but you could throw that under that table, or put it in the wall behind a blanking plate. Congrats on the baby! He/she going to have a very cool dad!

For future reference, the electromagnet piece, it's called an Electronic Strike Plate, which helps with locating versions for both inner and external doors. Generally though, you're not gonna find many that fit within existing strike plate designs, simply because the latch does have to allow the pin to pass through where the strike plate is (and thus through part of the wall).

"Wife approved" is the most glorious label in our home. 😂 Ps. Congrats to the new family addition.

Just an FYI about your how to power something on the door side of things. There are hinges called electrified hinges, they are used for hotels and such where the readers need continuous power on the door. You can use a drill and drill a small hole from one side to the other or as some doors do it around the permitter. Still love your implementation, and yes I wish these are more common.

Congratulations. May your child be blessed with all the electronic knowledge that you have.

You should add a backup battery to the fingerprint box that can power it for at least a day straight, so if the power goes out you still can access the room. Or add a way for the keyhole to activate a mechanical bypass to get access to the room when the fingerprint reader isn't working for whatever reason.

CONGRATULATIONS on your new baby!

Congratulations on the addition of the new member to the family.

Congratulations on having a baby!

Congratulations with your new born! I had the exact same issue. My "lab" (mancave) is not the safest place. But I told my daughter what she can and cannot touch, and she listens very well (so far). I also installed a normal manual lock to the door. ;)

congratulations, a mini great scott, that's awesome

Go through the wall into the shop side. You could also move the controller in there and extend the sensor wire to only have that component on the entry side. Much cleaner install that way imo

IMO the best way to power this would be to just put a new cable in the wall, then put plaster and paint over it, if this lock system is a permanent solution. Otherwise, You could just drill a hole through the wall behind the box, and power it from the lab's side

Might be worth thinking about adding protective earth to the button metall hull. As its impropable but not impossible to get a connection in this case to L or N. Could do it with a metal sheet or pcb on the inside to which the button screws against.

Congratulations on the addition to the family! Speaking from experience, kids are the most complex project you can work on. 😊

Oh my goodness, I do not think that I knew you were expecting to become a father. Congratulations! It is the *very greatest* project.

personally id set the led ring to blue as soon as the sensor is touched and reading, and then display either a solid green as it's approved, or a flashing red as it's ejected to make it feel a little more responsive :)

You could also do an electromagnet at the top of the door if the latch isn't an option. You just give it main's voltage attached to a normally-closed relay. It's just a matter of triggering the relay to break the circuit and turn off the magnet. The best part is that if the power goes out, you can just use the doorhandle as normal. I believe here in Florida, USA these are required for any security door that's blocking an emergency exit. The office I work at has one of these to access a stairwell. The lock can be bypassed by holding the door knob open for 30 seconds, but doing so triggers an alarm. Similar to what you see at grocery stores.

Hi Scott, So glad you chose a solenoid striker. However, as other commenters have noted, you need to do one or two modifications for safety. When using this type of access mechanism, you always need a mechanical override. The easiest solution is to configure the latch with a mechanical lock. Normally this is kept locked and the striker is used to enable access. But when there is a failure the door can still be unlocked and unlatched as normal. You should be able to find a "privacy" version of the same latch handle, or one with a lock. You can then ignore the lock below. Alternatively, if the bolt on the lock can be shortened to work with the solenoid striker, then you can swap which ones use the solenoid striker and just leave the deadbolt locked normally. Finally, a couple security and safety fixes for the sensor/controller. You can add a battery backup as others have suggested, or you can provide a auxiliary power input. This will not be as secure, as someone could destructively apply over voltage from the outside, but I don't think that's in your threat model. So maybe it's a good solution, just put a barrel jack. The other thing is to move the controller inside the door. You want the controller inaccessible, and also maybe the wiring ducts will be less offensive if they are inside your studio and not in the hallway. Cool project! Excited for phase 2!

Congrats on the addition to the Great Scott family! Could you run the conduit on the inside of your shop and connect the low voltage wires through the back? That would look clean from outside, which is probably what matters most.

As soon as the kid grows up enough to gain some knowledge about electronics, they will open the cover and manually power the lock.

For the door mounted locks, you could theoretically make some system with springs or pogo pins that would make contact when the door is closed, and keep the battery topped up that way. But it would add a lot of complication, and you would still have to power it just like the solution in the video

Das war ein sehr schönes kurzweiliges Projekt. Gerne mehr von dieser Sorte. Tolle Arbeit 🙂

Congratulations on the baby! I'm sure you'll be a Great Dad.

I think much better solution would be to place the electronic lock in the lower hole. That way the door could be "closed" all the time and in case of power outage you could unlock it manually with a key.

Maybe drill a hole through the wall to your lab to power it from the other side

Congrats on your beautiful new family!❤

OMG congrats!!!! i’m so excited for you with your new addition to the family!!! wonderful seeing you grow and develop over the many years i’ve been following you!! much love from australia :-)

I would have done it a bit different. Ideally I would have used the electronic lock on the locking part of the lock, and always keep the door locked. Some modification is probably needed to the locking bolt so it won't stick out too much, but that way there is a solid backup if the electronics for some reason fails. The second thing would have been to power the lock from inside the room, and use a fail safe instead of fail secure lock. That way it would be possible to just trip the HPFI and then gain access to the room in case of electronics failure.

I know security is not your primary goal, but you generally don't want to put the brains of the door unlock system on the side that your wanting to have people locked out.

Congrats on the newborn! My best ongoing "project". Have fun and learn something new every day

Congratulations on your newborn. Wish you and your family the best.

Woman is the master in the house.

While I love your videos and I learn new things every time, this could have been done with a ASSA ABLOY Code Handle 8811. The batteries last FOREVER in them.

Awesome project! I’m glad you addressed the handle because I was worried you would get locked inside 😂

Amazing 😊. Wishing all the best for the newborn 🎉

I use the same type of circuit to unlock and start my bike it was a lockdown project works like a charm and have been using the old fingerprint sensor will upgrade to the new one soon

Take off the door frame and the skirting board and chase out a channel on the back, rub the cable along is that completely concealed, you also then cut a small channel into the plaster board, and connect it behind the outlet, meaning you get to keep both outlets for use and the door is always powered.

Congratulations on your new arrival!

thank you, that's literally solution I was looking for

YOOOOOO! Congratulations man, it's a blast to see u grow

Fantastic project - thanks for the inspiration 🙂

You can run a simple cable chase at the top of the door near the hinge. This easily supplies mains power to the door.

Wow congrats 🎉 waiting to see videos from the new engineer😁❤

I was SO excited to see this video, and here's why. For quite some time now I've been designing garage doors that open upwards (like a doggy door) with a hydraulic ram, there will be two, however I still want to be able to walk in and out without needing to open the entire bay. So one of the garage doors will have a person door and that is what I'm here to talk about. I basically had the same idea as you for security, fingerprint. But to hold the door closed I remembered something I've seen long long time ago, magnetic locks, so electro mag on one side and receiver or whatever it's called on the other, when powered you will NOT move the door but when un powered it will move freely, so I just need to get the proper pieces to operate the magnets and code a raspberry pi to turn the magnet off when I scan my finger or tell it over software to turn off. But it will also have a backup normal lock that I typically won't keep locked in case power goes out. And just for further background, my garage runs pretty much solely on solar power and batteries so I'm running it all off DC, the PC, cameras, hydraulics and security, so if its like winter and can barely charge my batteries I can still get in the garage when it's powered off. I completely failed at proper grammar in this, got way too excited to think properly and just spat out a super condensed version sorry about that. But I would recommend looking into the electromagnetic locks because when un powered they're off which means if you ever experience technical difficulties, just cut power and you can get in. Yes, I'm now realizing I could've just said that Instead of my huge tangent, sorry about that too lol

Nice video, regardless of someone saying the look is unappealing... I like it very much. Btw, with elektronic locks... always make sure there a backup system... Many years ago I made a very ruggedized, rock solid lock... but eventually I had to break out the door.

Congratulations on your promotion to father. I hope your little one carries on your great work. Wishing you many more...

Confratulations for your new baby🎉

Congratulations on the new family member!

My youngest just turned two. Everything is like upgrading security and subjecting it to pen testing. Children are great pen testers.

Would love to see ESPHome version of this project. Seem both your finger readers are supported in ESPHome and you can add a hall sensor as door sensor 😉

NIce baby, dude! I love this project and work in security and can verify -- I've never seen a good residential answer to this problem

Congratulations on the DIY mini GreatScott! GreatScott! !

Congratulations on the baby 🎉

Congratulations on your newborn! For power you can drill thru the wall and inside your lab and then you can make a video on how to make a small power backup so you still can use get inside when the power is out

I LOVE Pickled Cabbage. Thank You, Germany for that and also bringing us Great Scott!! ❤

Great video, and I love how you added the POP sound when the door opens, lets everyone know someone is entering :>)

Brilliant work, dude! Really well done! 😃 Power is always an issue, but check if your walls aren't hollow! Perhaps you could pass a new wire, who knows. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Congrats to the effort you put in every project. The solution you make has its drawbacks dow. Its required to remove standart handle from one of the door sides. Much easier solution is to put dropbolt/deadbolt type lock below standart as is not need to remove anything from original solution and will be less digging and grinding. There is also surface mount dropbolts and magnets. Of course this need constant power supply but is fail safe and fire safe. Also AMS voltage regulator on the NANO takes 12v anyday. Sometimes simple project like this takes time and money and become not that simple as just buying cheap chineese solution with all in one package. Big fan of you!

Excellent UKposts! One solution for getting household current yo the control box (I apologize for not being able to write in any language other than English. I’m your typical monolingual dude from the United States.) From the outlet find every stud in the wall between the outlet and the door. Use a 2” (50mm) hole saw in the middle of the studs and drill in about 1” (25mm) deep. (In 6’ [2 m] there will be 4 maybe 5 studs.) The sheetrock plugs should just fall right out unless it has a sheetrock screw or nail holding it to the stud. Remove all the sheetrock plugs. Chisel out the wood from the stud to the depth of the hole-sawn holes. Run a 2-14g wire from the outlet to the stud just before the door. (If you think you will need a ground then use a 3-14g conductor.) Into the last stud bay below the control box shove a loop of the 2(or 3)-14g wire through the hole-sawn hole. Feed a stiff wire from down behind your control box towards the last hole-sawn hole. Use the loop to pull the stiff wire to the hole-sawn hole. Connect the end of the wire from the plug to the end of the stiff wire. Pull the wire up to the control box. Connect the wires to your fingerprint reader gizmo. In the studs of the hole-sawn holes fill the space with some putty or spackle of some sort to act as backing for the sheet rock plugs. You can also use the wood plugs you chiseled out but you have to make a way for the wiring to pass through. Sand any torn areas in the sheet rock plugs and the walls. Use the hole-saw holes in the center of the sheetrock plugs to screw the plugs back into place. !!Be careful to not screw into the wires¡¡ Sink the screw heads a little deep, 1/8” (4mm). Sand the edge of the hole saw kerf smooth, patch the kerf with putty or spackle. Sand the patched area smooth and repaint. Judging from how clean all your work is in your UKposts projects, I am guessing that when the paint dries no one will know you ran wires from the outlet to the control box. I have installed switches and lights in many rooms using this method. It was taught to me by my favorite Uncle, a retired IBEW electrician. RIP Uncle Coy. Your lessons live on. PS hahahah I see RossCraidBtowne left a good suggestion just before me. Anyway. It was fun to share my Uncle Coy’s lesson.

congratulations on your baby 🎉

History of this is interesting. Good presentation also 👍

Congrats! A new chapter awaits you 🎉. I hope to see you making toys for your kid

great for my room thanks for this idea i'll try on my room

this is awesome! and this project remembers me of when I tried to do something very similar and had a lot of problems with the arduino as I was using an Arduino UNO board. The board was glitching a lot with the electromagnetic fields generated by the wires going to the solenoid.

Congrats on the baby!

Just started watching this video. My first thought on how to keep the door closed would be with a magnet. When energized you would not be able to open the door. Easy installation of a iron plate to the door and an electrical magnet on the door post. Oh and btw, the grubscrew for securing the doorhandel to the shaft will be flush if you position the shaft so that the grubscrew will sink into the groove in the shaft. That will stop you hurting your hand.

Ah!!! Mrs Great Scott! has spoken, welcome to the club

The same thing I build some years ago;) I also had to drill and file on the door. I used an rfid reader and writer with an Esp32 and a custom circuit with and 24v AC Transformator to alternate the door opener. Special to make the door summing noise, to know the exact moment where a user can open the door. I created a webinterface to managed multiple users and log access times. Currently I planning to change the Transformator with an H-bridge to make the device smaller. If you’re interested, I can send you some pictures. 😅

hey, cool idea and Congratz to your little Scott!! ;) 😀

Another great video! About babies, I still remember that day when, coming home after job, I find out, that my daughter peeled off all roll with smd resistors at supervision by shes mom.. 😂 About indoor brackets from industrial segment - You can get them for indoors too, but, usually, they come as an kit with release magnet and bracket.. For powering - just drill through wall and add from inside battery backup system from industrial or commercial door alarm (access control) systems.. Thats means - power supply, battery charging module (usually come in one box) and deep discharge SLA battery.. 😉 Works every time for years..

Nice work, my father used the same system nearly 30 years ago too, so you dont need a key if the entrance door falls into the lock while being outside in the garden. He used a keypad instead of a fingerprint sensor, but the principle is the same :) As people have pointed out, electronics always on the inside to make it temper proof :)

Wow seeing you having a little new family member is such a weird feeling. I follow your Channel for a long time and this reminds me of the time that just flied by. But I wish you and your family only the best!

You can drill a hole behind the electronics-box into your Lab and get the power from there 😉

You are an inspiration and got me into ee!

Great Great Work, Great Scott!!

9:57 perhaps drill through the wall into the office to run the power cables to

in this design, I feel like if someone had to really break in, they could easily do that by removing the housing for the locking system and giving it power which defeats its whole purpose. In my opinion, the mechanics and wires should be inside the room and only the fingerprint sensor should be outside.

it's a really great project, don't you ever doubt that.

eine geniale Idee und Perfekt umgesetzt. 👍

Congrats on the new little one :) oh and another great video ..

Congratulations bro 🎉👍👏

You absolutely can build this into the door without batteries. Contact pads in the door jamb so when you close the door is closes the electrical circuit and powers the device. You can make them small and recessed to make them safe (like regular plugs have the contacts hidden from accidental touch).

same situatuion here :) thank you for advise!

"I was told that they look unappealing" I hear that euphemism about my projects all the time haha

Congrats man! Our little bean just turned 1 recently.

Congrats on your newborn ❤️

Take the power cable through the wall into your office/workshop, then the 'esthetics' of the power cable, only needs to appeal to you. 🤣

To transfer energy to door you could charge one hinge positively and other one negatively.

Glückwunsch zum Nachwuchs 😊

Cool! Congrats on your child!

What a awesome video! Loved this episode!

There are 2 ways you can make it appealing, you can cut a channel so that it goes directly UP from the security door, around the ceiling cavity, and down to the nearest 240v outlet, or if there's not much insulation behind you can drill back into the wall cavity, up and over. Final product will have wife approval factor of 10 and local laws approval of 10 because it's using the standard up and over. I know it feels like a waste of material, but it's a lot more safer, it takes the guess work out of horizontal when trying to put screws in for fixtures such as pictures and shelves. I do like this project and it would be a fantastic thing, so glad you engineered an exit that requires no electricity.

CONGRATULATIONS FOR YOUR SON!

This video was just what I was looking foor

I would recommend a solenoid deadbolt that mounts in the frame, and wiring from the inside of the shop. Just requires putting a cavity in the door. A backup battery or a manual turn key would prevent issues if power fails and you need to get into the shop. Alternatively, you could use a magnet and frame mounted electromagnet. Easy to bypass, but probably not for a small child.