@@Lorenzo_apd he post the vid early for payteron

Dont forget that it needs your credit or debit cards number like Netflix does to give you this two free months

Lorenzo Carelli apd this was a pre uploaded video with set date

the electronic side is a path way to many abilites some consider to be unatural!!!

need video about NB-IOT and LTE-M . Also Available Hardware Products For NB IOT.(like SIMCOMs SIM7000 Module)

That was also my thoughts too. Otherwise everything else is pretty nice tbh

Maybe some sort of compliant mechanism for reliability?

A barrel and pin system would be super easy for this and probably very sturdy. Could even potentially incorporate the cell connections into the barrels and connect via the pin.

True

yup

I did not get why DIY was the winner in this video. It costs the same and you have to invest more time.

@@addygreen8919 maybe because you can get more EXP from this...., :)

@@addygreen8919 maybe it's because it is more versatile because you can change certain features at your own accord unlike the commercial product where it's difficult to edit to meet your needs. Besides this is an early prototype so he might be able to reduce the cost or improve the product in a later video.

You from Indonesian?

@@wificitranet7232 He's just well-versed in memes

scott*

@@misterhash9329 thanks I was in hurry that time

I tried the test. Result was about the same.

bro he means direct 2 wire system system of 5v charging is limited . by the way we only get 2.4 A max technology for fast charging on 2 wired ampere technology we need data line for increased voltage rather than current for fast charging . some phone go up to 18V+ for fast charging so wire is be thin for more power . and charge pull more to battery.

Some step down boards on AliExpress have a chip to enable fast charging you can try one of these.

@@greatscottlab Then how did the commercial version loose? Not to mention durability... Those tabs going to hold up to repeated folding and unfolding? I doubt it.

@@greatscottlab Isc only applies in STC = standard test conditions = laboratory conditions of 1000 W/m² and 25°C cell temperature. You would at least need to direct the cells to the sun to get closer to the nominal Isc and Voc I would love to invite you to our research center, Fraunhofer Center for Silicon-Photovoltaics in Halle.

Thanks :-)

"Uplads"

@@-never-gonna-give-you-up- fixed

@@beratbaki1681 it wasn't to drill you into the ground btw :) I tought you did it on purpose haha

You're right

And use JLCPCB's SMT assembly service for the custom PCB :D

MPPT would require a load that can absorb a continually variable amount of power. I don't know if all phones would accept a varying power input. This is why in general a battery or supercapacitor is used as an intermediary buffer. Something like USB Power Delivery or one of the proprietary Quick Charge standards might help.

The dodgy wiring can be easily fixed a number of ways. So in my opinion feels largely unimportant just couldnt be bothered to do it properly because its rapid prototyping. Perhaps that should have been stated more clearly when mentioned. Anyhow more importantly I think the other issue you raise here about MPPT is indeed something that should be addressed and looked into further. I was actually pretty impressed however at how well matched and good performance he managed to get with the off the shelf cheapo buck boost converter. So maybe a good follow up would be a head to head contest between that and a cheap MPPT (or self made one). To see how much benefit for doing it properly. Vs the higher cost of that component. And to see how much power was actually being left on the table. And perhaps gain some useful insight as to why the specific buck boost converter being chosen had worked so well as it did. If it was anything to do with the input stage of the buck boost circuit being in common with the way an MPPT works. Would be great part 2 revisit.. I also wanted to point out that epoxy shrinks by 10% so is not ideal for larger panels that you can see in the video does not dry flat due to the shrinkage or may cause stress or other mechanical issue. And of course 3ed prints are not exactly the stiffest backing material either. So investigating a better protective covering / housing materials would also be worthwhile. If somebody else is trying to repeat this project. I am personally not sure what would be most suitable because there are a number of different options. Which will have different sets of pros / cons. And cost different amounts since this is a budget sensitive project. Just try to avoid the epoxy (if you can find something else better)n is just my main point here, because your standard epoxy will always shrink.

I'd also add atlsast one schotky diode to prevent backflow into the cells, commercially available panels come with one diode per panel but that's probably overkill for something like this.

@@frogjmon unlike an inductive load like a motor, the schotky Diodes in PV-Modules serve to prevent single shaded or broken cells from running in reverse breakdown, which happens in Strings of round about 24 cells (24 * V_forward > 1 * V_revbreakdown. Only applies to crystalline cells.

Yep, I acutally tried that. But it is really hard to design. At least for me.

And not use PLA for project with a lot of heat :) It will warp!

Good old duct tape.... Always saves the day! Nice use of my favourite tech. solution

Share it

If any kid is started engineering they would know that tapes are their best friend. Until they have tools that’s require for doing big project

@@ScrotN I seriously considered buying a sewing machine, but duct tape was a short term solution. I had a 1 week bicycle tour coming in a short time, and went for the quick&dirty solution :)

@@williamlivingston2929 I will definetly shoot a video for that, currently waiting for the aliexpress shipments. My friend "confisticaded" my solar panels:)

It's 1000W/m^2 but besides that I completely agree with you

And dont forget the angle of cell vs. Sun Unless your garden is located at terrestrial Equator you should tilt your cell according the Sun angle, which depends on latitude, day in year and local suntime Next proyect could be an automatic two-axis positioner with those factors in mind

The problem I had with epoxy was the expansion and contraction was breaking my cells. That was when I tried to encapsulate them to glass. I think it is better to encapsulate each cell individually. Good Job!

I only have 1 quick solution that seems to work against the yellowing stuff. Most of those cheap garden lights use those yellowing cells which become useless after a couple of months. I also have a 6V panel that is covered in epoxy and the same thing happened. Sanded all of them to make them ok again but same thing yellowing started again after a month or so. Now I cover them with helicopter tape. The stuff they use to for example protect bike frames. You can get that stuff for a couple of euro. I just cut it and stick it over the cell after I make it clear again. If I now buy new solar stuff which uses those cell I immediately stick it on. The 6V cell is still clear now like all of my other 'toys' after being 3 years in the elements. I might replace the aging tape next year but that is just a 5 minute job.

This is why this plastic crap never lasts in the long run even if it is UV stable there is always mechanical wear and scratching from normal uses that does them in. I always preferred rigid panels with all this in mind.

Glad you like them!

Agreed!

+1 for the C60 cells. 21% efficient and a reasonable ish price

can't you give them a smash back with a high voltage teaser or something that they will remeber it forever...

@@sarimbinwaseem karma struck back hard on them One came crawling to my house (broke, unwashed, smelling like death) to ask if my car is still on sale I did the ultimate sike on him

Thanks!

😂

Awesome :-)

It's my pleasure

Thank you! Cheers!

@@greatscottlab u welcm

This is how all portable solar panels are made... You don't see it because it is all hidden and protected by the black nylon fabric... Like he should do too...

Yeah I’ve only seen one panel or cell ever hit even close to spec (and it went above spec pretty consistently). Almost all of them are way under what they are rated. Really sucks when you are trying to design for a specific load and it drives the size of your design based on an incorrect and made up marketing rating that is simply impossible so then you have to completely redesign because of fake specifications...

A lot of those only go up to 1.5a max and few really put that much on each port when all the ports are in use. The same applies to these overpriced yuppie panels that look nice but rarely deliver regardless of the latitude as some perform like crap even on a good day in Mexico and Spain. A Good one will put out around 2 amps per port and not sag when both ports are in use.

@@MrKillswitch88 I mean panels usually made for charging 12V lead acid battery systems. I have a 25W panel that puts out 25W. It was $40.

@@davidgunther8428 People have been using panels for charging 24v and 48v systems running lithium batteries for a decade or some for homes and businesses. I honestly don't like lead acid batteires as they are bread and eggs that they don't have the best shelf life in the long run. I got lithium packs that are 15+ years old that still hold decent charge.

@@MrKillswitch88 I didn't say I was using lead acid batteries, I said the "12V system nominal" (17V nominal) panels were made for lead acid systems.

@@davidgunther8428 ok....