i been in the comment industry for 37 years, there are well over 100 comment choices for replying to designers ... sarcasm will deteriorate the integrity of your comment and motive ... nerdy exposure to direct facts, wikipedia and google must be taken into consideration, comment no sting when sarcasm as thick as you present. very cool meme you chose ... comments are much less expensive than mailing letters ... concern trolling to contrast facts could also be implemented.. comment and facts would increase sentence value and longevity... clear comments about facts could be applied during the commenting process because comments are pious and can endure facts and testing. your finished comment is beautiful!

This killed me

🤣🤣💀

​@@__shiftylmfao

​@__shifty 😂😂 I don't know where you pulled all that funny out of, but im glad i stumbled on to your comment

Resin Coating them would definitely help! I recommend you check out Steve McDonald’s UV experiment showing how much some companies can yellow over time from UV damage! It steered me to sticking with only JDiction products for my own projects, because it didn’t even slightly change color after a year in his backyard. There’s a few other ones that did great too, but some were HORRIBLE and would cost you even more money/time refinishing them waaaay faster than every 10yrs! I agree though, Headstones are ridiculously expensive and there needs to be a better priced solution for it! I’m working on some of my own designs this way too, concrete absolutely being one, because making a repeatable Form/Process to knocking them out cheap will be ideal. Same with some of the new EcoPoxy or Resins out currently. Though just fully clear, opaque, or semitransparent Resin with things that the Deceased loved embedded in with them…I think that would be awesome, plus they could be made to light up at night via LEDs or Phosphorescent powder like my favorite Lit from Culture Hustle! 3D Printing them in some highly durable weatherproof material has also been made possible at this point! Plus they can then have crazy amounts of detail and customization built right into them. You could even Electroplate them and then have faux Metal versions on the cheap. 🤷‍♂️😁😍❤️🙏🤘

@@MakerAcreNinjaNetwork thanks. You’ve given me lots to think about. If my ears weren’t already smoking, they are now. 😂🤣 I’m kinda excited to do yet another new project now. Wish me luck. 🤞🤞I think I’ll do something for my favorite sports team first.

@@thundervalley9766 That’s awesome, and truly the best of luck with it and all future projects!! ❤️🫂🤞🙏🤘🍀 Always happy to share ideas and spread creativity! It’s actually why I’m in the process of creating my own Network of channels on here! Maybe you should think about documenting your own on this next piece for your team! Same with your Headstones! I bet there’s gotta be a bunch of other people too who feel the same way as us, and would love to see your method for making/decorating them! Especially since it’s been for family, so it’ll be very touching and from the heart…something sorely lacking in the World these days sadly! ❤️🫂😁🤷‍♂️🙏🤞

I'm going to cast my own headstone from bronze. The only thing my kin will have to do is buy a bronze date plaque.

@@booguwu4540 thought about making my own too. I’m just afraid I’d need it before the concrete cured. 👈😳🙏😂

This would be my go to. Using MICA automotive paint colours, the same stuff is used to colour resin. The stuff is pretty expensive, and I don't know how much you would need, but I don't see it being as much of an issue to the strength of the concrete. Paint turns to plastic more or less, so it's certainly going to affect the integrity to some degree.

@@ShadowNuke I used dont know witch brands but local car paint shop made the color paste that goes into the paint and for 15€ i got enough to make rich 60ml pour of brass and still had plenty left over. Would not get swirls like with other pigments used for epoxy but easy local way to get any color i want. Other is acrylic paints i have been mixing in, though if you add too much it might become slightly rubbery so test to make some decorative project before committing into larger pour. Mind they can only mix the minimum amount in the car shop so ask what is the minimum, given that is usually meant for 0.3 liter pain can.

That’s how it’s suppose to be done using the dyes

Latex paint is not a concrete admix. Even though there are concrete admixes with latex, it's never the main ingredient. Even if it's called a latex admix. Also using paint is 2x the cost vs a concrete colorant based off math.

Also paint/admix should be added to the water, then into the powder. Pigment powders should be dry mixed, then fluid added. It's all about consistency!

Quick set, eh? Might have to spice up my next fence post project. 😉

I was just thinking this lol

yes exactly!!!! i was just saying something similar in a different comment im glad you said it like this

Good someone already commented. Glow in the dark would look really cool. especially for a pathway. Or you can even mold edger bricks to go alone a path

​@@the_allamerican7057 Also add UV pathway lights to make the whole thing glow. let's just pour glow in the dark pigment + resin over the existing.

I was just thinking the same thing... "don't they use latex in thinset?" Add a little reinforcing mesh and that will hold up to foot traffic.

It's a thing the municipal waste uses donated waste paints in city building projects for this latex strengthening.

Mapei has a line of products under the 'Kera' heading, like Kera flex thinset, has latex in it for this exact reason

Depends upon how much you put in. I think it would require more than most people would realize, and I'm not sure if there's anyone who's really calculated the amount required when hand mixing, as opposed to companies which make acrylic mortars and thinsets which are premixed. Acrylic paint requires a certain amount of acrylic material for it to bond into a coherent material. Moreover, diluting the coalescent will compromise the finished product as well, and (as concrete lacks the chemicals used in acrylic paint to act as a coalescent) you'd need to add a great deal of extra coalescent to make sure it had time to properly form. As others have suggested, concrete dyes exist which perform the colorant job of the paint. Additionally, there are already concretes which are water resistant. The combination of the two would be the proven choice.

you have no idea how thinset works and the modifiers that go into it and what it does if you put latex paint into it and called it modified. modified means you are ADDING material that creates a cementitious mixture that will cure in the absence of air. latex was and still is indeed a added ingredient but NOT to make it "modified" What it does is allows it to flow a bit better into the pours of the substrate by preventing the crystals from forming as early thus delaying its "kick" also if you did not let it slake for more time then it ruined the mix. NOTHING TO DO WITH CURING OR MODIFIED. Most installers back in the day were all hacks that had no real idea of what is the best way untill TCNA came along. but that goes way back to the 40's to 60's. the problem is that you were taught by old timers who did not know better. unlike electrical or plumbing, that requires a very big background and training, tile work and concrete work to that extent is all just a bunch of hacks that got good and showed other hacks how they did it. i can't complain, keeps me busy fixing all that junk.

make sure it is rapid set concrete. Won't work on portland cement based concrete

It’s a plasticizer. It’s added to concrete mixes ALL the time. And they do work with Portland cement based mixes. A little secret: regular dish soap is almost the same chemical make up and it’s a lot cheaper.

​@psidvicious dish soap is added to concrete as an air-entrainment. Normally to improve thermal performance in cold environments. Also, latex paint is not a modified admixture for concrete. It doesn't render plasticized concrete, latex is not a plastic. Latex is a rubber, often found in condoms. There are readily available products that do all of this better.

Add some chopped glass fiber too. For a mold like this, pour in a thin layer of concrete then add the fiber for the rest of it. Use a big spoon or ladle to carefully apply the concrete with fiber so it doesn't push through the layer without fiber. You don't want any fibers showing on the surface. After you have a thick layer of fibered concrete over the face layer, the rest can be carefully poured in. How good is the glass fiber at preventing cracks? Next to my shop is a building with a parking apron that was put in circa 1992. 32 or more years with not a single crack.

@@greggv8 there is fibered concrete ready to mix. The stuff I use the fibers just dissappear into the mix as I'm floating with it. Spec mix, scratch & brown fibered concrete. I only use spec mix products if I can and demand it for certain applications.

A solvent based acrylic concrete would have darkened it even more

Concrete sealer

Thats cool. We are going to do something along that line for our outdoor side walks and for the interior floors of the house.

@@kameljoe21 Hope it works out well for you. Cheers from Australia

I think you're probably better off just adding straight pigment to make sure you avoid any issues with weakening the concrete. Not a terrible idea for something that's completely non-critical though.

There are tons of concrete colorants. There are also latex admixes for concrete. Both can be had cheaper than paint, and both outperform it when used in concrete.

You shouldn't. You add pigment.

Brilliant

I have one word. "Guinness "

I guess it's just impractical to add paint to the concrete when you can just paint the outside and repaint it every once in a while when it gets too sun bleached.

@@matt92hun I'd always mix the color into the material, painting the outside leads to additional upkeep, which I'm not a fan of, I have enough to keep me busy as is. 😁

​@@GregHallArtWould it look duller than surface painting and get sun bleached away on the surface in a couple of years?

@@matt92hun as you see in the video, when you add the paint to the mix, it will usually end up lighter than you expect, but to me that's a good thing. If you want bold, bright color then paint it after. But, sometimes, depending on where you live, the weather can cause havoc on it, freezing and thawing with just a tiny amount of liquid getting between the cement and the paint can cause it to start popping off, which leads to stripping and repainting. I'd rather mix in the color and accept a little possible fading, depending on how much sun it gets.

Yes. Cool video. We have done a few thousand cooking videos. Let's get #cooking with the #chefs .

As long as it's for water based

I was wondering that as well. Might be able to get it a deeper color with just the pain tints.

Was wondering the same thing

Most definitely