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Hey Mark! In 1986, I sat in my big cousin's Chevy LUV that had two 10s behind the seat and listened to the License to Ill album. Ever since then, I've had a LUV for car audio. Now, at 46 years old, I'm working on building my dream system. Only this time, I'm doing it right. After years of making mistakes and half-assing it, I found what I've been looking for... The School of Mark. ...Another great video, by the way. Your tutorials are priceless. Thank you. I've learned so much. I hope your sponsors pay you well, because I have bought several of their products because of you. I've even adapted some of your knowledge to my daily life. I work as an installer in the pro audio-video-lighting-accoustics industry on the central coast of CA. It's close but very different from car audio. However, some products and techniques have, day to day, helped to make me look like a superstar within my industry. Someday, I hope to have a sweet workshop like yours and expand my portfolio to include pro car audio installation as well. Until then, watching your videos and living vicariously will have to do. Please keep making these videos. No one is doing them better. I look forward to seeing more content. I might have missed it, but could you do a video about tuning your amps with an oscilloscope include something about how to use a good multimeter to roughly get it close. Another good video would be a tour of your shop and all the most common tools you use and what someone would need to start building their own dream fabrication workshop. Thanks again, Teach! Keep up the good work!

If you really want to give yourself a challenge, try messing with an 80 pin ECM connector that is corroded because heat got to the seals causing them to swell up and let water in, or when they are covered in oil. After years as a HD truck mechanic, where these are used extensively, and sometimes excessively, I never thought that I would see them used in this way. That said, I like this idea and may well incorporate it into my build. A word of advice to everyone, including you Mark, if you use those little mounts, go easy while connecting and disconnecting them. They are brittle and it doesn’t take much for the tabs to break. A REALLY good place to use these is on the wiring for any external lighting that is being installed. A lot of the pre-made light bar and fog light harnesses use them already. But if you are like me and build your own harnesses, switch and relay panels, distribution panels, they make for a very clean and mostly weather proof install.

I use these connectors almost every day. Best you can get…

I use an Anderson connector on the back of each of my sub boxes in my dual cab Ute when I need that little extra space. Has worked very well for years

Now it is time to redo all of my connections, especially. Thanks Mark! - A project is never really done. You learn better and you do better.

Love the details and “how to do” tips and tricks. Always helps me learn how to extend the scope of the tasks that I will attempt. Thanks, Mark,

Thought I was the only one using these in car audio!

These would be great to make a harness for connecting your DSP to both ends of the factory wires.

I'm in the heavy equipment industry, and this is basically the only style of connection that is used across the board. And I mean all the OEMs are using it. Hitachi, CAT Liebherr Kawasaki, and many more. The weather proofing is the most advantageous of this style, as these machines work in some of the worst ever conditions. Dust, rain mud, heat, cold. The only disadvantage for me is the cost, and when they were buried in dust and mud for long, it can be a pain to disconnect. You even get round 21, 31 and 36 pin connectors.

You released this video just in time because I just bought a pin kit to use this in my son's car last week. I have to tap into the existing wiring harness in order to install a LOC and use the existing wires for the speakers.

I needed these two months ago. When I was installing a JBL basshub. It would be easier to switch out subwoofers.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thank you! I will use it to make my amp rack as "quick disconnect" as possible. I can easily mount the connector onto the rack and pull it off whenever needed. I need 6 per side so 12 total and they have plenty of room for that. I may get 2 for the subwoofer wiring as well but I think I'm using 12 AWG for the subs so I'll need to size up. 1 will be at the rack and the other will be on the sub box for quick removal of the sub box if needed. That could come in handy later.

I have been watching your videos for a few years now and I absolutely love your videos, you have been a huge help in perfecting my sound systems, I’m in the middle of planning a new system. would you ever consider doing a video on “rear fills” and creating a sound stage. I would love to hear your opinions on these topics.

Awesome, just what I needed. Any reason to open up my perfectly functioning install to create custom harnesses 😂

You are worthy of the like button !

When I installed an aftermarket tail light on my motorcycle I didn't want to cut into the factory wiring, so I sourced the factory connector that Kawasaki used for the tail light. Turned out to be cheaper to buy a box of them on Amazon than to buy a single connector anywhere. So when I installed the head unit in my car and discovered that a previous owner had chopped off the factory connector, I decided to just make use of the pile of connectors I had sitting in the closet. They weren't the nice Deutsch style connectors, but it did mean that there was no ugly electrical taped wire splice rats nest under the dash :)

Deutsch connectors are popular for use in club level motorsports. Really awesome connectors and I use them all the time for all kinds of electrical projects Automotive, Audio, or anything!

So these are the DT series connectors and rated for up to 15A. There is also the DTP series that are rated up to 25A which are more commonly used for lightbars and driving lights. Given the costs of these plugs, I would use use them anywhere they wound be exposed to the external environment, ie; inside doors, but for internal use I would recommend using the connectors that utilise the male and female blade terminals. However if space is a determining factor, the Deutsch plugs in a 4 or more pin combination will be way more compact and, imho, much neater and more professional looking. That's my 2c for those who never asked for it. But great video and very informative. 👍

I ordered 2 kits as I’m doing a caravan rewire and now I’ve got another use for them to do my audio system

As always, great explanation. Was just looking at them and wasn't sure how they worked and now I know. One thing to note that the 16 size works for 14AWG, 16AWG and 18AWG so no need for anything bigger for speakers, but for sub probably will need a different size

these kits are great. back in teh day i would go to salvage yards and pickup pigtailed harnesses for pennies. id normaly solder them up for use wherever. mac sells a 3 piece (wheel style) pinning tool kit for like 40 bucks, its the best kit for the money that ive found and it covers pretty much everything.

I have been using those for years now. Great content.

Definitely need this for my tweeters

YES, these are great connectors

I think I'm going to check these out! Thanks Mark as usual!

I love this. I was going to use those solder on 2 pin connectors from the hobby store to build a wiring harness for lighting accessories for my truck and motorcycle but this would make it so much easier. Especially with fog light pairs. I would use the doubles for each fog light and then another double or quad to pair them up for the longer runs

I installed the yellow ones when the first video came out a few years ago. Later on i bought a audio control 5-1300 and had it installed by a shop to retain the 5 year warrenty. Lol, the shop made me cut out the yellow speaker connectors saying it added far too much resistance to the system. This was Cartronics in north miami beach. All so they could run their own wire. Goodness, I wish knew back then what i know now

A quick removal amp rack is the ideal use for those

I just did a system on a Kabota Sidekick where I had to make the plug for the RF marine unit I installed. I absolutely love these plugs. Once you learn how to use them they are a piece of cake!

Uhhh yeah. These are awesome. I cannot confirm or deny that I have already ordered some.

I love the connecters, but ill probably stick to xt60 connecters for now. but great trick to keep in my back pocket!

Great video as usual!

That's all we use at the offroad shop I work at

Damn, I sure be using it on my next build

I just used some molex mini fit connectors on speed wire. Weather pack could be used as well and are easy to work with. Deutsch connectors are nice as well.

Used those when I installed my digital dash in my 86 IROC. Tried replacing the bulbs in OEM gauges, but still was too dim for my old eyes, so I replaced OEM with digital gauges and used those clips for all the wire connections. Worked perfectly, and the OEM gauges are safely packed away for the time I decide to sell the car, if ever.

Amphenol SINE makes those type conectors as well, found them on mouser. In the 18 pin version, there is a bulkhead version of the female one. I am using that one for wiring pass through to the cab, from the engine compartment. This is for a gauge read out diplay, to monitor the vitals of a mecanical diesel.

I use those for years best connectors ever DTP is for more amps. Just make sure that you make these connection close to the receiving end of the power.

My Deutsch connectors comes from IWISS store too, I first started using these within camper van conversions for 97% of 12v applications. They are so reliable and expandable if need be. Although I think it’s time I invested in a better quality pair of crimpers

I already use these things for EVERYTHING, lol. They can be pricey but they are totally worth it. There are also FLANGED versions that can be used like a firewall connection such as being mounted through an amp board. You mount the flanged connector, which is the female receptacle, to the board and then have a nice harness coming out of it to then connect to your amp or DSP. Can be used for speaker connections or even custom RCA’s. Power for an amplifier is a bit more complex though but they do have the Deutsche HD connectors as well which I’ve seen those as big as 6AWG pins. Those are usually single-pin connections though. But, doing something like that would eliminate having to run the wiring through holes in the board and then having to put trim pieces to keep it looking nice. The same concept however can be used with the little mounting brackets in a surface mount style install where the wiring is exposed. I will also say that the 8-pin connections use a DIFFERENT mounting clip than the rest. Not a big deal, just be aware of it. You can also STACK multiple connectors onto the same mounting clip because most of the female receptacles have both male and female mounting groves in them to link more than one to each other. But these are awesome. However, I personally like the OPEN style of pins instead because they offer some stress relief to the conductor connection since they have the tabs that crimp onto the insulation itself. I’ve had the closed ones have wires get pulled out of them in the past which is why I switched. I also have special crimpers for that style of crimp as well. They literally look like they were factory crimped when I use them. The possibilities of using these is endless. One of the best custom wiring products ever made. Yeah, you could use Molex, but those don’t look nearly as professional as these do. There are also several sites out there that sell OEM-type connectors for whatever vehicle you have to make it look even more factory, but those are usually purchased per-connector and can get very pricey, even more so than these. But if you combine some nice heat shrink and wire loom with these, the custom harnesses you can make with them are downright beautiful.

These are great for marine use.

Highly recommend to order spare pins. Mistakes happen and you don't want to put a project on hold for a week waiting on more pins.

Great video Mark what brand is the primary speaker wire on your desk in this video?

Dude! I’m in the process of doing this using Molex. I love the Deutsch style tho. Also can you post the link to those wire spools!!! 😍

Hi mate, I would use these really make the build more reliable and give a real oem look. Have you ever done a video on a classic car stereo build? Where the stereo system looks original but has bluetooth connectivity and sounds great?

I was hesitant at first i need to investigate it but i think moisture in the door is why my woofer go out on rainy days thia couls be a good solution

Hey Mark have you considered the molex MX150 series connectors? They are generally made in the 22-18 awg. The do have limited connectors in the 14-16awg connectors. Check em out

Have you used any other plug style? I generally use MINI-FIT for interior work. Many amps use them as well so it is nice to have some around. Deutsch connectors are great when doing something that needs a more weatherproof connector. Not crapping on your choice because they are a great option, just interested in an opinion.

Amp rack!

My only issue with these types of connectors is QC. I've used these before and a few have had minor gaps and what not, which cause intermittent connection issue (voltage drops). Not a difficult diagnosis but considering its very tough to see the imperfections sometimes. It tough to recommend them over solder and or crimp connectors.

I didn't see it mentioned but the GREEN STRIPE pins/sockets have a thinner wall (larger ID) for 14 guage wire. Non-GreenStripes have a thicker wall(smaller ID) for 16 guage and is especially better for crimping 18 guage wire. You can use green stripe wire for all, but the crimp isn't as optimaal for the best crimp surface area contact and crimp holding, but in the thousands of crimps I've done in my career, using green stripe for 18 guage has never failed me, just theoretically worse. Also, you need to buy a better wire stripper with a depth setting. When using these barrel crimps, it's best to cut the insulation to the exact depth of the copper fitting into the barrel pin/socket. For the style of connector you're using, it's not as much of a problem, but for the round deutsch connectors which require a plastic disposable removal tool you'll understand why when you have to pull those wires out. Stripping too much results in a more flexible and flimsier wire, making it harder to insert and remove. The wire stripper I use at work are the Phoenix Contact WireFox 10. Though my coworker has the Knipex version and he likes those. They're the same design. With either you can cut and strip wires quickly to the exact depth you want. Having that kind of perfect repeatability makes larger harnesses a breeze. Also, Iwiss makes a nicer deutsch crimper for about $130 on Amazon. Worth it because it's easier to adjust for wire guage so the crimp impressions are deeper depending on the wire guage you're using. It's designed to be a knockoff of the OEM Deutsch Crimp tool.

So what is a good quick disconnect for a 4 AWG? For a motorcycle amplifier?

I absolutely love learning from your videos. I would love to hear your thoughts on a single setup with both sealed and ported enclosures with one of the enclosures polarity reversed. I don't know a whole lot about this kind of set up, but in my avalanche I can't find/build a set up that sounds better than my 12"ported sub next to my 10" sealed sub (polarity reversed) all that being said, what if I built a T-line box for a single 12 and built into that same box also would be a sealed 10 or possibly to 10's? Am I being stupid at this point, or are these viable thoughts?

id rather have the solderable connections for the corrosion prevention of the solder coupled with the fact that you can by sticky zip tie mounts instead of having to mount with a screw for the other type. You can use double sided tape for those, true, but in my experience a solderable type connector is the preferred standard.

So I just installed an older pioneer head unit and dual front door speakers to replace the blown factory equipment this is just a temp set up so it's not screeching at me however my question what would be a recommendation for a system in a 2006 beetle

Got to say the Deutch connection of any type and size surpasses any connection competitors. Gold pin option or standard, makes a professional install availability for even sensitive components

My old speakers had 4 cables. Can I use this to connect 4 cables to the new speaker that only have 2 connections.

any easy way to have connectors with 5 speakers wired in parallel?

Question about apms please I need help :/ I have a mono amp and a 4 channel amp. Do I need to link them to each other with RCAs??? Or can I run them individually?? Individually meaning Mono amp connected by RCAs from my head unit (subwoofer) outputs And my 4 channel amp connected from the other head unit RCA outputs??

I personally don’t think I’d ever use them. At least on my own car, maybe on a friends car for their convenience. Personally I’ve invested a good amount of time into my system, I’m already committed to the connections that I like to use. If I have to remove a panel that I know I’ll be messing with any of my own wiring, I’m already prepared to deal with it the same way I have for a long time. I personally would probably use this style maybe behind the head unit for any connections, make it look a little more professional and convenient. Or even for non audio automotive applications I’d probably use it. ESPECIALLY if it’s outside the cabin of the car, under the car, in the engine bay, etc.

For door speakers on my 2015 jeep wrangler

If your going to use Deutsch connectors to your car audio projects, add about 10% of your total project cost to compensate for the cost of these great connectors

I have a easy solution for this.. just mount ur amp away from the sub, that way there is just the speaker cable running to it.. witch makes taking it out super fast.. problem solved!

Mark…. The brand/link of wire spools 🧵 please!😢