I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.

this man is doing god's work explaining this stuff. fixed a bunch of outlets and electrical wiring thanks to him. it's the small stuff but yea.

will I ever do this? Maybe...naw. Did I watch the entire video? YES!

One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.

I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..

Another great, useful, well structured, clearly filmed video, Scott. Really well done. Thanks.

Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.

Nice work! I installed my 1st Mr. Cool in 2018, no issues!

I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep. One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories. You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware. Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation. In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there. The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs. It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own. As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.

Great video, Scott! Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect. Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes. Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding. Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.

GREAT VIDEO!!! i was quoted $13,000 to install a mini split in my 850-square-foot house in Las Vegas. . i knew IMMEDIATELY he was a rip-off!!!

Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.

Great teacher, terrific information well presented!

It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.

Excellent. Very thorough and easy to follow.

There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines. All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves. "Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed". You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars. The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.

Thanks for this very helpful information! 👍

One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning. This was a great video.

Another very well explained tutorial.

Thank you this explanation helped me a lot this is a good teaching 🙏

2 grand is a great bargain! For a garage that’s perfect. I’m seriously considering one for my garage. Always great videos!

Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.

Great video I’m ready to install mine this weekend nice pointers.

Exactly what I've been looking for.

Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.

Great video 📹

Great video, thank you.

Excellent job, one suggestion would be to leak check prior to wrapping the unions with the supplied wrap

Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.

Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.

Also, if you only get a 30" bracket like he got, you can mount one of the 90° angles brackets centered on a stud and than offset the hanging bracket so that it mounts across two studs where the other 90° brackets hangs.

Muy bién explicado..muchas gracias.

This is by far the best diy install, 100% explained !! Thanks !!

Fantastic! Thanks a ton!

In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.

Nice project! 👍👍

I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.

This video helps alot--thanks!

Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.

Nice video. Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit. Grace and Peace Slick

Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.

I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.

Just starting on Installation of a mrcool mini split

This was a really impressive install. Nice work. Btw I'm surprised you don't have one of those dedicated washer wrenches for the metal box plugs.

I would appreciate winter and summer updates on this project, to see how it actually performs in IL.

Also, may want to checkbfor leaks with soap water on all supply line connections. Thanks

I love it! No permits needed.

The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.

Ok a couple of things The coil created by extra line set in the back of the outdoor unit is an oil trap. Eventually the compressor will be starved of oil and will fail. The required way to coil it is to coil it horizontally not vertically. The other thing is the positioning of the indoor unit. It appears that the area directly underneath the indoor unit is framed out for a shelf. If a shelf is installed there it will block off the air flow. When in cooling mode the lovers will be directed downward, this will obstruct the air flow and the air won’t get to where it is intended. Additionally if a shelf is installed you are likely to have the cold air recirculate back to the air intake and possibly have freezing coil issue. The 2x4 frame underneath is not great.

I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help. Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow. I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall. Mine is a 12k 120 unit.

You probably should have mounted the air handler to the right, not over top of the shelves. Reason: shelf will block air flow as the air output is at the bottom of the air handler. If mounted to the right, free air flow downward.

Coiling excess lines vertically creates refrigerant oil return trap reducing oil return to compressor.

Hi Scott...... Great video, thank you. I have one question. Since you have a shelf just below the air handler unit, would it be wise to build out the wall frame so the face of the unit is flush or "proud" of the shelf? So that the discharged air from the bottom of the unit does not come in contact with the shelf.

Here in Brazil it’s always custom loop, and condensers always come preloaded with gas for 15 feet of tubing. Actually most manufacturers require installers to use at least 15 feet, no matter how long you need, for dampening and flow reasons.

Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.

Wished you showed how you wired it in the breaker box but it pretty self explanatory and will remember to use red tape to label in the future

I am installing same unit but a double unit. Can the drain be separated to run directly outside and the lines to the unit be run through the attic ? Thank You for your help and great video of the install process !

Curious about the Froth-Pak on the shelf ...

Hello Love your videos Does the compressor vibration can be felt inside the building?

Just curious, first ty for the good content, second: mr cool has us connect everywhere and release the refrigerant into a system with atmosphere in it? I wonder if they have a nice filter drier meant to clean the gases?

Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.

Great DIY video but a vacuum nitrogen test is a must its purges the line of impurities and checks for leaks. that over time damage the A/C. This requires test gauge and a vacuum I bought it and was worth it as you probably save $2000 plus by installing this yourself I also found some used equipment as others have done the same and sell the equipment when done leak test is a must i micro leak emptied my neighbors split over 2 months and cost $900 to repair and recharge.

thanks for the video'; what gauge power whip did you use? and 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch?

I’m planning an install for the single zone 12K model. It will be most convenient to have the air handler on the other side of the room. I’m trying to figure out if there are any bad things that come with running the lines down, but mostly 17ft horizontally (and around one corner). I’ve only seen people bring it perfectly vertical down the siding to the condenser with plenty of slack left. I’m worried that gravity will matter, but I’d need it to run across and not just down. Thanks for any insight.

Could one place the "outside" hole further down the wall? I don't like those lines coming out of an exterior wall. I hope to be able to go into the wall behind the unit, run the lines behind the drywall and then out through an exterior hole closer to the ground.

Is the Bosch inverter system a good pick for high humidity climate areas like Florida where humidity control is a priority?

Are these DIY units able to be tied into a smart thermostat (i.e., 24v connections)? I have a Reznor gas furnace in my 1,500 sq ft garage controlled via a Nest T-stat. Would like for them to be controlled by one t-stat, with the Mr Cool being stage 1 heat and the gas furnace being stage 2. Also, great instructional video.

Air handler is a bit close to that top shelf. You would get better air dispersion if it was mounted 18” + above the shelving. The movable louvers can disperse the air in a downward direction so heat would be more effective directed toward the floor. (Of course the opposite is true for cooling mode) Otherwise, looks like a great job!

My main concern has to do with the refrigerant used. It was expensive because it was hard to find. Learning this, I decided to hold off buying one of these units until I know more about the refrigerant. I realize the lines come precharged, but I always prepare for the worst.

Great video. I am now going this route for my mini split. However, you mentioned that the unit needed a 20 amp circuit, but the product specifications state it needs to be a 30 amp. Can you clarify why you only went with a 20amp circuit? I have a bunch of 12/2 romex and would love to run that, but I got concerned with the 30a specification on the product page. Again, I appreciate this video more than you know.

Nice vedeo bro

I was led to believe that the lines that you attach are empty and that the refrigerant is entirely in the outdoor unit which is released through the lines when you open the high pressure valve. Which is also why they typically recommend that prior to opening the valve the system is pressure tested and vacuumed. I also did not realize that the indoor unit lines are nitrogen charged so when you take off the caps off you got a loud blast.

What is the sq feet of the space being heated, cooled. Or should I ask length and width of floor than height from floor to ceing?

Is it acceptable to use a standard romex connector to attach the communication wire to the Mr Cool panel cover or is there a more suitable exterior connector to use in this situation? I see you used a water tight connector between the disconnect and the unit (which is what I did as well) but used a standard romex connector (interior grade?) for the communication wire. Curious if this will allow moisture to enter the electrical panel inside the unit?

The indoor unit doesn't look parallel to the top sill plate of your wall. Looks like the left end droops a little. Great video and thank you.

Sorry if I missed it in the video, but where/how did you check if there were any leaks in the refrigerant lines?

Great video! I am about to install a 36k unit with two indoor units

Great video, but I didn't hear a very crucial question answered. How low can the outside temperature be and this still be effective. Where I live in north Idaho temperatures can go below zero. Average daily range is around 20 degrees to 35 degrees. Seldom is the temperature average. Below average is much more the norm. We average 6' of snow and have seen as much as 15' in one winter.

The 12/2 out of the house into the box: should that be UF instead on NM?

Looks like a lot more insulation in the ceiling and walls will save you a ton of $$$

Good video but from experience I will add , do NOT use electrical tape on line set drain bundle . Electrical tape tightens or constricts and has kinked drain lines in the past and caused leaks inside . Only use duct tape for bundling

You'll likely destroy vinyl siding with a holesaw like that unless you know that you put the drill in reverse as you saw through the vinyl.

Great video! How much does it typically cost to have these installed by a general contractor? And this is just one handler, how would you install additional handlers if that’s something I’m looking at? It looks easy enough for me to do but I’m hesitant with the other handler going to the opposite side of the garage and doesn’t have outdoor access. So most likely would need to run through the walls or attic

Just curious is it possible to run the lines inside the wall and then drill the hole closer to the bottom so the lines are hidden? I have a shed that is unfinished and thinking about getting a unit or two.

Can I make my pilot hole in the middle of the metal bracket and run my lines through the middle of the mini split, instead of the bottom corner ?

Why not elevate the inside unit higher to clear your shelf more? Items on the shelf will block air flow. There is also a commercial sealant for the refrigerant lines which helps to ensure a good seal.

Nicely done but I think I'm too type A not to torque the connections and check for leaks with some soapy water before I encased it all. Is Mr. Cool the only DIY ASHP available? You can DIY others with some extra tools but without a HVAC certification number you don't get a warranty.

Cool But is 12-3 what you had to use for 240 just a heads up

I'm curious how well this will heat the space over the winter!

Awesome! That’s a huge savings doing the work yourself. Question….What if you performed the install yourself and then called an HVAC guy to cut the lines and reconnect them for a cleaner job. I would think the total cost of the project would be considerably less than having the HVAC guy do it all. I am assuming the refrigerant can be extracted and reinstalled by the hvac guy. Just curious.

It's interesting that they pre-charge the lines with Freon instead of a vacuum. The older systems have the charge stored in the compressor and you have to pull a vacuum on the lines and air handler then open the valves on the compressor. I actually prefer these because I don't like having all that excess line. Admittedly, I do have a vacuum and gauge set, so it's not a big deal.

I like your video, but my preference is trying not to get things on the house. Because of inspection purposes. And insurance But the video is nice. Gives you a heads up, thank you.

Thanks for the video. Just curious, do you want to make sure the air handler is level. Seems like you want it to be a slight incline to allow the unit to drain properly. Take care@

Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.

How good are the smaller 110 units? Or should I avoid them and stick with a 240 unit?

Will the oil pool up inside the coils behind the condenser?

89° on the indoor unit seems low when the temperature outside is 45°? On my 1 ton minisplit, I measure 115° when the temp outside is 45°. And 100° when the temp outside is 30°.

Can you tell me what the maximum remote compressor distance placement is? Are longer line sets available from the manufacturer? Thank you

Do you think a 9000 would work well in a 288 sqft tiny house with a vaulted ceiling in Texas?

Good job. Curious why you didn't mount the inside unit between the 2 shelf units instead of on top of the left one. Sure it will work down to -15 but the heat output at that temp will be so low that your space, unless super insulated, will eventually become too cold to stay in. It's kinda like advertised range of an electric car. They advertise like this in Canada too where it can get really cold in some parts. You will always need a supplemental heat source.