Create Perfect 3D Resin Prints by Finding the Optimal Layer Exposure Time

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Full article with all STL Files - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Understanding exposure test models means you can nail the exposure time for your printer-resin combo. This is the secret to producing crispy 3D prints that capture every single detail of the original design. This is the Fourth Episode in our Resin Printing Series.
Related Information
How To Change Your Layer Heights When Resin 3D Printing (Next Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/guide...
How To Slice Models For Resin 3D Printing With Lychee Slicer (Third Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
How To Complete Your First Resin 3D Print (Second Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Getting Started with Resin 3D Printing and Tools (First Episode) - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Multiple Colours on a Single Resin Print - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Hot Trick When Replacing Your FEP Sheet - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
Colourise 3D Printer Resin using Alcohol Inks and Pearl Ex Powder - core-electronics.com.au/tutor...
If you have any questions about this content or want to share a project you're working on head over to our maker forum, we are full time makers and here to help - coreelec.io/forum
Layer Exposure Time determines the light exposure duration for a single layer of an object that you are trying to print. Unlike filament printing (where it can feel like there is an almost endless amount of settings that you must know about for perfect 3D prints) resin 3D printing has much simpler dials to adjust up and down. And the most crucial dial is Layer Exposure Time and its wrong adjustment is one of the major reasons why resin 3D prints fail. It is all about finding that sweet spot. The best way to test for and find the correct Layer Exposure Time for your set-up is to print a couple of exposure test models with your Resin 3D printer at different exposure amounts. You can adjust the exposure settings directly through your 3D resin printer user interface (UI) or in your slicing software. Under-exposing or over-exposing can really cause havoc with the resin printing experience. Too long exposure will result in light bleeding and scattering deep through the resin material resulting in a loss of intricate details and dimensional inaccuracy. Too short an exposure will create an under-cure result. Under-curing can be identified by several factors such as layer de-laminations in the middle of the part, serious loss or miniaturisation of intricate details, general poor model adhesion to the build plate, or the worst, the entire model falling off the build platform. Bottoms layers are the first few layers that are exposed to UV light in your model and bottom layer exposure times are always longer than normal layers exposure times. They are exposed longer so that the model can adhere more securely to the build platform.
As a general rule for Normal Layer Exposure Time use 0.5-5 seconds for Monochrome Screen Printers and 2-20 seconds for RGB Screen Printers. Another good rule of thumb to follow is to set the Bottom Layer Exposure Time to be 8-12 times longer than the Normal Layer Exposure Time. This is a good generally but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds.
Core Electronics is located in the heart of Newcastle, Australia. We're powered by makers, for makers. Check us out if you are looking for:
LD-002H UV 3D Printer: core-electronics.com.au/catal...
LD-002R UV 3D Printer: core-electronics.com.au/catal...
Creality UV Resin: core-electronics.com.au/3d-pr...
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): core-electronics.com.au/catal...
Creality Wash and Cure Machine (UW-01): core-electronics.com.au/catal...
0:00 Intro
0:12 What is Exposure Time
0:31 Results of Bad Exposure Settings
1:02 Validation Matrix Overview
1:30 Decode the Matrix
2:27 Exposure Setting Location in Lychee Slicer
3:36 Setting Location in Chitubox Slicer
3:45 Validation Matrix Spectrum
4:50 View of Perfect Model Result
5:14 Overexposed Model Result
5:39 Underexposed Model Result
6:45 Bottom Layers (Burn in Layers) Settings
7:24 Do some testing!
7:55 Exposure Setting Location through UI
8:12 Make:Rook Calibration Test Piece
8:52 Print Your Dreams!
9:07 When To Run Exposure Tests
9:40 Extra Tips
10:11 Outro

КОМЕНТАРІ: 319

@sirayatech2 2 роки тому

We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.

@beefknuckles 2 роки тому

Love your resins

@heramann6916 Рік тому

Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet

@JBGecko13yt 8 місяців тому

I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.

@timenotspaceproduction 5 місяців тому

siraya tech leading the industry :)

@Jauphrey Рік тому

I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊

@peterdocter4659 Рік тому

The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)

@saintguardian3639 2 роки тому

Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.

@CadianColors 2 роки тому

As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!

@frankblack7685 2 роки тому

As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊

@jhkkkk6576 Рік тому

Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.

@mjustice34 10 місяців тому

Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.

@bertsteenbergen6729 Рік тому

Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use

@bhaelhalelthebastard6014 Рік тому

Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.

@dougcraven47 2 роки тому

So useful and so organized. Many UKpostsrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Cheers champ! 😄

@steve22ss Рік тому

This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

😊😊 Cheers mate!

@chriswiese1348 2 роки тому

I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!

@patrickboon4163 2 роки тому

As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable

@livelongandprosper70 11 місяців тому

I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌

@Core-Electronics 11 місяців тому

Happy to hear that!

@stormboy8544 2 роки тому

You made it so clear and easy to understand. Just got yourself a subscriber. Looking forward to watching more of your videos

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!

@RestingGlitchFace Місяць тому

Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow

@NorthernLightSouth 2 роки тому

Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

My pleasure 😀

@frankdearr2772 8 місяців тому

great, thanks for sharing 👍

@franciscoaraya9966 3 місяці тому

Thank you Tim, extremely helpful video!

@kevincantrell6295 2 роки тому

This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Thats all good mate 😄

@peacekper Рік тому

Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.

@dannydaniel138 Рік тому

Great video! It's just what I needed.

@logantbirch 2 роки тому

I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊

@JD-sb7mq Рік тому

same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!

@michaelhollanshed5729 Рік тому

EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!

@InterstellarModeler 2 роки тому

What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Big thanks mate 🙂! More on the way.

@NuarStanger 2 роки тому

Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment

@zaphenath6756 2 роки тому

holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄

@edwinbarreto58 Рік тому

Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

So glad you dig it 😊!

@dukeshaver199 Рік тому

Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim

@scpfoundation6195 2 роки тому

About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.

@NokChidchanok 8 місяців тому

Good info

@joaquinordoqui111 6 місяців тому

Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D

@xphoenixrising 2 роки тому

This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models

@ethans3113 2 роки тому

I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit

@richarddespres8011 2 роки тому

Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊

@adiebland9220 7 місяців тому

Fantastic Vid, thank you so much

@BushidoScale 2 роки тому

this video will be very helpful for me. thanks

@pongchilis6884 7 місяців тому

I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..

@TristynRusselo Рік тому

I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.

@dhaniels83 Рік тому

all the information here is gold jerry, gold!

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

@Pendragon-dnd 5 місяців тому

I appreciate this dawg!

@linassapnagis2174 Рік тому

WOW! Impresive information

@jpreculeau 2 роки тому

Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Cheers mate 😊

@RookieRay 3 дні тому

Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?

@SessleIsosceles 2 роки тому

Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.

@SessleIsosceles 2 роки тому

@@Core-Electronics beauty, beauty

@andrefreitas3907 Рік тому

Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips

@ashdotpy Рік тому

So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!

@julianfranklin9306 2 роки тому

This is the first video of yours that I have seen and shall look forward to others that you do. I've owned a resin printer for less than 2 days and NOW I realise why the exposure time is so important and what the difference is between a Normal and Bottom layer. Your suggestion of a c.10x increase in exposure time to establish the bottom layer is invaluable. I'm also grateful to you for explaining why manufacturers deliberately 'over-cook' (so to speak) the exposure time to begin with. Not a conspiracy, but a guarantee that models produced will definitely work and so lend confidence to the newbie owner (i.e. me). So very many thanks for this wonderful insight. Forgive a naive question, but I notice that my Photon Mono 4K has a very similar appearance to your Crealtity (other than the obvious difference in colour to the UV casing). Are they the same or sister companies, I wonder?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Very glad to of helped 😊 more videos on Resin Printing in the pipeline too. In regards to similar appearance this has to do with them utilising very similar technology and implementing it in a similar manner. This implementation is by far the most common way to print resin currently, you'll see many machines with similar appearances made by many manufacturers, and is now referred to as 'traditional resin 3D printing' (this technology is so young using the word traditional does seem a little silly). If your curious there are many different ways/methods to 3D print resin, take this machine here which has a very novel resin printing method - www.fabbaloo.com/news/rocket-1-fast-and-accurate-resin-3d-printer

@Drg666999 Рік тому

extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

My pleasure mate 😊

@zdenekholy2634 Рік тому

Great video ... thank you.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Glad you liked it!

@Sparky5 2 роки тому

I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?

@3Dprintingshorts 2 роки тому

very informative, good job keep it up

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Cheers mate 😊 will do my best

@RACKSO99 6 місяців тому

Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.

@AslanAtreyu 11 місяців тому

Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?

@NADA-kv7ez 3 місяці тому

Thank. you. for. your. video. !!!!!

@skishare3303 Рік тому

Thanks for your sharing

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

😊

@oljobo 2 роки тому

Just Brilliant 👍🥰

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Big love 💖

@donniem7979 2 роки тому

Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?

@nicolasbreuermd9386 Рік тому

as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132

@atomleef110 2 роки тому

very useful thank you

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Glad it was helpful!

@josefranciscopaz4152 2 роки тому

THANKS!!!!!!!!

@atomant8800 Рік тому

im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Glad it helped!

@watsonstudios Рік тому

Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.

@ET-gr9yw Рік тому

The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.

@--JYM-Rescuing-SS-Minnow 2 роки тому

helpful !!

@TheMrlilcreepz 5 місяців тому

Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?

@diegoteran3812 2 роки тому

Literary theory video I was looking for (:

@Bread3rs 2 роки тому

This is great information, I just received a creality printer so will fine tune it. However where does one find this Gengar print?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Here's the link to the Gengar model www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132

@Djromatic Рік тому

I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?

@PhG1961 2 роки тому

Waw, this was interesting !

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Glad you think so!

@101pcgamer 5 місяців тому

are there any other settings that needs to be tested and changed as well? as ecposure time

@davidc3150 Рік тому

Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure? Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please? Thanks again for all your wisdom

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.

@dKeprintlab 2 роки тому

Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.

@noviceartisan 10 місяців тому

Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!

@stianbulandlie2711 9 місяців тому

I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time

@enrilopez 2 роки тому

This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

I'll have to check it out, my experience has been more burn in layers has resulted in better model stiction to the buildplate.

@kazu_thorn 2 роки тому

Ohhhh I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle

@celtos255 Рік тому

i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Happy days 😊!

@bayuocta7042 10 місяців тому

Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.

@subsinister 5 місяців тому

What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin

@pedrosoares9603 2 роки тому

Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo. I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!

@pedrosoares9603 2 роки тому

@@Core-Electronics thank you. I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.

@cwtjones 11 місяців тому

hi, do we need to adjust the exposure time for different layer height? say, 0.03mm, vs 0.05mm.

@andrewowens5653 2 роки тому

The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.

@nonchip 2 роки тому

interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)

@AFV85 Рік тому

Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!

@dyagni6443 Рік тому

Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.

@Abdulreviews 6 місяців тому

Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax

@elnavegantecosmico 2 роки тому

Hi! Nice video. But now I have a question. Do I have to put an exposure time to the bottom layers to make this test print or just with the exposure time of the normal layers. For example. Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 0 s? or Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 17 s?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Thank you mate 😉 Print the exposure tests with 4 bottom layers and like in your example use 17 second bottom layers and 1.7 second for normal layers.

@Panico747II 2 роки тому

10x is very high for bottom layer, I use 2.0 sec and bottom only 8-10 sec, for a loooong time and never fail.

@brightsunlight335 2 роки тому

After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level. Hope that helps 😊

@HotCarTrack 2 роки тому

What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.

@HotCarTrack 2 роки тому

@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.

@blakeguyan2662 2 роки тому

How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?

@radiomuffin 2 роки тому

Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.

@101pcgamer 5 місяців тому

do you need to scaled to fit build plate? with Validation_Matrix

@Guardian_Arias 5 місяців тому

After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........

@Core-Electronics 5 місяців тому

Best of luck!

@panwall1327 Рік тому

The Cones of Calibration!

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Proper interesting! I'll give these Cones of Calibration a good looksie 😊 Thanks.

@jellysandjamz250 Рік тому

Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?

@toml1298 2 роки тому

Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.

@sytorias7143 Рік тому

You mentioned it's a good idea to make the intervals .1s for monochrome screens. How do manually change the intervals between exposure times for the 8 on one build plate. Or did you have to print one by one to achieve this?

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

So I printed each one individually, manually changing the exposure time for each. There are software which will do it all for you automatically which I have linked in the full written up article and here - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases

@sytorias7143 Рік тому

@@Core-Electronics yeah I gave it a read through and it really helped, I've finally got the skin coloured resin from anycubic printing the rook perfectly, I scattered heaps of them throughout the build plate as well. I tried my first 100mm bust after dialing in the settings for this specific resin but it ripped from the supports and got stuck to the fep :'D I'm going to try using the PTFE stuff next

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Sorry to hear about that! Just dial up that exposure a little more and *Fingers crossed* you have nothing but success from here on out! In Lychee I go support crazy with Supports Density set at Ultra but also make the supports size Medium (or once I have trust in my settings Light). Once I have the Generate Automatic Supports completed I go over the model with a fine tooth comb and often place even more supports onto it. With great settings the model will break free from the supports without leaving any marks visible without a microscope.

@sytorias7143 Рік тому

@@Core-Electronics sounds like a plan! Thanks for the help and video, much appreciated ☺️

@sytorias7143 Рік тому

@@Core-Electronics sounds like a plan! Thanks for the help and video, much appreciated ☺️

@meanderingobsession680 2 роки тому

I've been using this method for my first three prints and ended up with the gap/ hole / whatever you want to call it seen in your over exposed test strip ( on the left half of the infinity symbol ) at time stamp 5:18, I moved the print to the left side of the build plate and ended up with perfect results using the same exposure settings for the burn in and the regular exposure time. Does this indicate I need to recalibrate my build plate 0 settings for the Z axis or something to do with exposure that I just need more test runs for to dial in the perfect exposure settings? Also thanks for the great video it helped me make the plunge into the world of resin printing !

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

It's hard to say, you may need to re-level and home the build plate, which if you haven't done recently is a good idea to do anyway. But you might be experiencing the different levels of UV intensity that occurs further away from the center of the screen. Since the UV light is not emitted from the screen but by a LED die underneath, the edges of the screen receive slightly less light than the center meaning that your exposure times would be slightly different at the edge.

@meanderingobsession680 2 роки тому

@@Core-Electronics It did end up being the leveling, Thanks for the help !

@dpsmaztorbator Рік тому

I’m new to 3d printing. When you change the layer exposure time, do you do so in chitubox, printer or both?

@Core-Electronics Рік тому

Hi Henry, welcome to the world of 3D printing 🎉 When you change the layer exposure time it's best practice to set up these changes in your slicing software (chitubox, lychee), while it's possible to alter the settings from the printer, having the correct exposure time baked into the file allows for consistency and repeatability. I would reserve the printer settings for quickly fixing errors.

@dpsmaztorbator Рік тому

@@Core-Electronics Thank you, this helps!

@xevenau 2 роки тому

When you say you have to do another exposure test with a new resin, do you mean retesting the resin of the same kind, a resin of a different kind, or both?

@Core-Electronics 2 роки тому

Nice question, resins of the same brand but different colours/transparency are definitely worth re-running these tests as the exposure light will travel through the resins differently (in regards to both penetration and dispersal through the liquid). An argument can also be made for re-testing the exact same brand and type of resin if your are using a new bottle (as variance can occur between batches from the manufacturer) but normally you will be good to go with the same settings.