Having worked with Kerry ultrasonics in the UK on some cleaning problems there are a few insights that may be worth noting. The idea of sub baths is great, but try where ever possible to stay away from soft materials, plastics and the likes as they absorb the energy reducing the necessary cavitation, so lab glass beakers works well, but also the tanks themselves are based on commercial catering dishes, and so are available in nesting sizes to go across and along most any tank. Never places a part directly on the bottom of a tank you will be looking for trouble with the transducer. Never put your hands into the tank when it is running, ultrasonics are used to emulsify biological samples! As a rough rule of thumb industrial tank power is rated at around 1Kw per kg of parts to be cleaned. So your spindle job may be a little ambitious. Up to a point for every 10°C increase in temperature the cleaning action of the solution about doubles. But beyond a point the transducers efficiency will start tailing off, I won’t usually run a tank above 60°C, that is not to say I won’t soak the job in a much hotter tank overnight, let it cool, then run the tank. Best results are obtained by using deionised or distilled water, also degas the solution for a few minutes prior to starting. When a job is being cleaned the contaminants will either got to the bottom of the tank, not a problem, or float to the top, where they are problem as they will simply recoat the part when it is removed, so the thing to do is using the sub tank and just prior to halling out, over fill the sub tank to the point of overflowing into the main tank, and thus skimming the liquids surface clean. The chemistry is important when cleaning the mounted bearings as precision bearings don’t usually have metal ball cages so the chemistry need to be strong enough to unseat the “dirt” without damaging the cages, but it also must flush completely or may degrade or even destroy any new lube that you then replace. This is why I would go with a solvent rather than any water based chemistry, stay away from the aggressive, low flash point, especially acetone, and never soak overnight unless it’s a very benign solvent. A new large syringe (>50ml) and a short length of suitable tube works wonders to flush through the job while the tank is running. Just my 2d. Good luck.

Could we take a moment to appreciate the sheer youtubeness of this production? You're starting to be a real youtuber with all the spongebob interludes.

had same question several years now, thank you for sharing.

Thanks. I was exactly looking at the 15L version of that exact cleaner and your video has made the determination for me.

This video is completely enthralling. You did an excellent job on every aspect. The content, the patter, the flow, the bumper graphics, all of it, excellent. I'm sold. If you aren't a salesman you might want to consider becoming one.

Gotta admit I was expecting a “OH GOD IT HURTS!!!” After that *five minutes later* 🤣🤣

Thanks for the review. Bought a used ultrasound a while ago, but have never tried a container with solvent inside the bath - excellent suggestion!

“Rather than reading the instructions I watched about 10 You Tube videos”. Modern world in a nutshell !

That worked a lot better than I thought on the rubbery grunge and bolts. And honestly, I would have never thought of the separate liquid container idea with the jars/bags. You'll have the insides of that schaublin shiny like new in no time.

I have one of these sinks and am happy with it. What I never thought of was the container trick so I didn't use strong solvents in the primary bath. Glad to have watched this video. Good trick.

Amatuer tip: Use a glass jar. Using plastic will eventually fatigue in the ultrasonic cleaner. Glass also has a better cavitation effect than plastic. Make sure the jar is tall enough to be above the water line so one does not need to cap the jar.

Been wondering the same. After watching, and seeing a better way to use it, I think this is going on to the to buy list. I really do like the method of keeping the cleaners contained, it surely will prolong the life of the cleaner, or at least the housing...

never ceases to amaze me how much an ultrasonic cleaner can make cleaning of parts so much more efficient than trying to do it all by hand. Gotta love technology. ♥

I bought the same unit a couple of months ago, the tips of putting things in a jar with a more aggressive cleaning agent will come handy 🙂 I enjoyed watching you clean your ‘piddle’ 🤗

I bought one of those with the analog dials for my garage and couldnt be happier, I brought it to work for two weeks and everyone found that it saved time and simplified cleaning parts before inspection. I took it home and even management was disappointed that it was gone , In an all time first , management listened to the workers and got us one .

I've had the same cleaner for about a year and a half now and it's worked great. I've used it a lot. I even cleaned out the carbon from an atv muffler with it by cleaning half of it at a time.

Wow thanks for the bag/jar trick IV been playing with ultrasonic cleaners for about 7 years now mainly do motorbike carbs but for little stuff I now don't have to get the water dirty 🤙👌

Just a heads-up, you popped up in my Home recommended videos. Congrats on getting in on the algorithm. Influx of views on the way.

First thing said after using mine for the first time... "I should've bought the bigger one."

One thing learned using ultrasonic cleaners is to immediately dry and oil metal parts that can rust. These things are so thorough in their cleaning that metal can flash rust in minutes. Also, as others have said, use a larger glass container which reaches above the surface because some cleaners can cause pressure to build up in the container. I occasionally use acetone in a a jar and it will boil if you're not careful.

Thanks for a very informative video, not only a product review but multiple tips included. Count me in as a new subscriber. I would like to see how Evapo-rust works in an ultrasonic cleaner.

I am pretty happy with my 6L that I picked up a few months ago. Works a treat. I run the system a bit longer than 5 min. though. Usually 15-20 min. I find that the water heater kinda sucks though and takes forever. So I pre-fill with hot/boiling water to give it an edge. Cheers,

I cleaned up old aluminum pistons using hot antifreeze; the cheapest ethylene glycol based one the local shop had on the shelf. The pistons came out as good as new. I also tried it with an old slow cooker; straight up heat and no vibrations. It took longer but also came out clean.

This a great vid, especially since there has been so much feedback from others on 'how to'. Some great ideas here on how I'll tackle deep cleaning - I have the same machine, still unboxed. The isolation of the parts by whatever means is a great idea to be specific to the clean, and not contaminate the whole setup. Great controlled tests that give a baseline for different ways to clean different items. Many thanks for this from across the ditch... your approach to testing approach is raw and refreshing - really helpful. Sub'd and liked 👍

First video I saw from this channel. Subscribed

That's great, I definitely need to get one of these one day!

In a HDPE bottle, try mixing up some "Ed's Red", which is typically a mixture of automatic transmission fluid, turpentine/mineral spirits, acetone, and kerosene. It's extremely good at removing carbon fouling like you have on the piston. This is often used for cleaning firearms with tons of fouling on them, though those mixtures also include lanolin to act as a lubricant. This is not likely necessary for you. It will work extremely well in the ultrasonic. I have also found that "simple green" (the purple metal-safe variant) is excellent for this, and I've used it in my ultrasonic for cleaning small carbon-fouled parts. There is likely to be a similar formulation available in Europe if you can't find the original, but only the purple version is safe for aluminum and other alloys.

Great, just bought a 15ltr tank, glass jar and freezer bags are a brilliant idea thanks

I used an ultrasonic cleaner for years for deep cleaning high-speed (450-thous RPM+) dental drills before disassembly and repairs. Various solvents worked in glass or plastic jars nearly submerged in the water bath.. The eoc-friendly bio-degradable cleaners also worked well. Typically, I used heavy duty floor wax stripper 50% or 100% mixed in a jar for stubborn items (contains butoxyethanol and aminoethanol as active ingredients...Zep branded or equivalent). Worked very well indeed for degreasing without harming any metal finishes.

Very interesting test. The bag trick is an excellent one. I would suggest leaving parts for a substantially longer time for a thorough cleaning. For example with rust removal, 30’ to 1h may be a more adequate time imo.

It's one of the smartest purchases you've made yet. It will save you a ton of time, effort and money.

Very helpful video. I learned some techniques for using my cleaner better

Good Morning. You know, I'm one second into this video and just paused it to say II think you must be a mind reader. I was going to suggest an ultrasonic cleaner to this week! Before I watch further one thing that I will say is mine works brilliantly for me. It works fantastically well on ceramic cores used to wind inductors for ham radio. I buy old unloved piece of gear, toss suitable candidates in the ultrasonic for 20 or so minutes and it comes out looking brand new. YMMV. Now to finish watching :)

I use some oven cleaner for anything carbon, what seems to work effectively is using glas in stead of plastics. The Ticopur stuff specially for Ultrasonic gives me the best results and works with everything. Yesterday I removed the stone stuff from exhaust valves using some chalk remover for the bathroom. Also works excellent. I always put some ticopur stuf in the water, also when I am using glas tot put in my parts. You can hear the sound change when you add it and it seems to make the ultrasonic waves more powerfull.

I’ve got the exact same cleaner bought from AliExpress (over 12 months ago) still sitting in the box unopened. I think of it as Schrödinger’s Ultrasonic Cleaner. As it sits there, it both works, and it doesn’t.

Great informative vid! Surprised to hear no accent... fellow Kiwi here :) Looks like I'll be investing in one of these after all. Cheers!

“Got some problems with the Chinglish there” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

That should serve you well in the workshop... a nice purchase...

Excellent use of the word ‘greezy’! Liked it!

My 2 pennies worth, it's my understanding that many items just need a "Whetting agent", most detergents achieve this, for ferrous rust removal, a "Citric Acid" based solution works well, very cheap to buy granules, mix up to 10% solution. I have purchased some high end Stamm products, and they work well, but basic chemicals as you've proved work well. Great vlog, happy vibrations. Thanks for sharing.

Yes I use it for cleaning carbs, I use kerosene for most stuff, then switch to petrol for one last clean. I dont use plastic jars though I found they soften too much. Just big glass jars. Never bothered using the heating function, seems to work well without it.

When using dish washing detergent I find heating it to 60 degrees makes a big difference, and usually 20 minutes or more cleaning time. Anodized or painted parts will lose the coating where it has been nicked or scratched so be careful with any surface coating you want to keep. Sticky stuff like glue or rubber requires some type of solvent but everything else I use gentle detergent. For carbon on pistions i like to use soda blasting. Just buy a jug of baking soda and put it in a normal sand blasting cabinet. Removes all the carbon without damaging the aluminium. Unlike sand or glass bead blasting that will remove material from the piston. Soda is even safe to use in the wrist pin hole. Rinse with water to remove the soda.

Don't worry too much about the bath, although I use the ziplock / coffee jar trick too. If you leave "blued steel" in long enough, you can get it back to steel and re blue. Decoking pistons are though.... xylene is often quoted as effective...so is brake fluid. I've never tried either....

I have a small equipment repair shop I run out of my garage here across the pond in the US. Being in a cold state every spring I get overrun with mowers, blowers, chain saws, etc that will not start after winter storage, carbs are clogged. I use an aluminum safe solution and pre heat the water on the stove before the process. Some carb cleaner sprayed first in the carb passages and then 10 minutes in the cooker (what I call the machine) the carbs look and run like new. I paid $120 US dollars and it has paid for itself several times over.

I usually scrub the parts with a wire brush and solvent(or tooth brush for more delicate stuff) before dropping it in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20min. It works really well. For rust removal try wire brushing to remove flakey rust followed by soaking in dilute citric acid for a few hours to a few days depending on how badly rusted it is and the ultrasonic cleaner does the final bit very effectively.

I've got a 30L unit, with the sweep freq option. I've just been using distilled water and a drop or two of dish detergent. It's is nowhere NEAR as quick as your BBQ cleaner, I need to look into that. On the flip side, if you've got time to let it churn with hot water it will get the job done. Some stuff may take an hour or two, but it'll do it given enough time. It's great when I'm working on other things while batches clean.

I do not know if you can get it where you live, but Simple Green Extreme Aircraft/ Precision Cleaner is great on pistons. It was about $20/ gallon in the USA. Kind of expensive, great on aluminum, water/ cleaner ratio of 10/1. New to ultra sonic cleaning and automotive parts were my first project. I bought a large ultrasonic cleaner. I put pistons and connecting rods together at 80c and 30 minutes and it removed all of the cooked on carbon. It looked like new. Also barely could fit a aluminum head in the tank (had to rotate cleaning on each side) and it looked really good. Used the same cleaning solution for a complete engine build and it looked nasty but still worked good for the whole project. Still trying to figure out what cleaner works best on different metals. Want to try Evaporust, my go to rust remover, next on rusted parts. I like your low cost solutions like vinegar on rust in the ultrasonic machine.

Definitely a Good demonstration of an Ultra Sonic Cleaner. Like most things in life. Nothing is perfect. As for the Ultra Sonic Cleaner ? It has done a great job considering the asking price. I was looking at buying one of these for my business over 20 years ago now. Asking price at that time was around 22K. Of course this was NO toy as you could imagine. Made for cleaning Transmission cases to give you an idea of the size of the unit. Of course the Price scared me off and i chose a different path for cleaning my parts ??

Thanks for the very interesting video, caustic soda is a great substance for breaking down organic fats or oils even ones that are baked on and burnt, hence barbecue cleaner, these properties do not transfer to mineral oils or or burnt mineral oil deposits, you are a knowledgeable person, paraffin or diesel have relatively high flash points, these would have been my cleaner options, I have played with caustic soda as a cleaner and have not found it to be very effective except on organic material, Just my thoughts Thanks for very interesting video

I've used ultrasonic cleaners quite a lot. The best multipurpose cleaning agents are citrus based, in AU it's called orange power, not sure what your local version is. Another great cleaner is Biox, which we used for cleaning regulators used for Oxygen service. If you really really need to get it clean there's another cleaner called Ardrox, primarily used for cleaning/stripping aircraft!

I'm using a similar cheap ultrasonic cleaner but with the dialing knobs in front. Some Times with petrol to clean carburetors or small parts... Works fine as long as the container is sealed properly. Most of the time i run the cleaner the full 0.5h (fire and forget)... Small engine cases runs up to 3 times to clean up. Sounds a long time to wait but it is clean. 👍

You would need good mechano-acoustic coupling through the container to the liquid inside to be most effective. I suspect different materials will damp the ultrasonics differently and give different results on cleaning. I think the thin polythene of the sandwich bag might be one of the best.

I have a similar looking ultra sonic cleaner, I got mine from Pratt and Whitney surplus a few years back for $80. They’ve since closed down but the ultrasonic cleaner is still kicking, after many iterations of cleaners and solutions that were on average, a double edged sword, I found a safe cleaning product that seems to work very well (at least for me). Awesome cleaner It isn’t harmful in any way, so far as I can attest, I’m still testing, but so far so good.

I've had the same unit for about 5 years now, fill it up, dump in a couple cups of Sam's club degreaser and whatever parts to clean, carburetors come out looking like new, diesel injectors same, now looking for a larger one that a cylinder head will fit in, they are worth every penny spent.

Hi great video as always. Just a quick question, did You degas the water before you started cleaning? You should take out the basket and let it wiz around for 10 min. It will improve cleaning a lot (-: Edit:spelling

we have these at my job.not the cheap ones though. we always leave parts go for 90 min. yea its safe to dip your bare hand in while its running if your quick enough to not get burned lol. machine parts and tools are all we put in there. works so well im watching these reviews to buy one for home.

I am thinking of buying one of these for clean PCBs and your video has more or less sold me on the idea but can I ask if you still have it and if its still working ok?

Thanks for the video. Be careful about using plastic bags. If the part has a sharp edge it can cut through it, contaminating the water. Don't ask me how I know. :O( . Try cola for getting rid of carbon build up. It works on gas parts on rifles. Keep safe and stay well.

I like you using a container for parts to keep the water clean inside the ultrasound. Genius.

I use carb cleaner in mine which is a mix of things all of which are pretty flammable so I just make sure to keep an eye on it and when not in use I drain the cleaner back into it’s can. But it appears to not hurt aluminum and is way better than soap.

Thumbs up for the Manuka Honey bottle. And the rest of the video ofcourse.

also: try using glass jars instead of plastic. i watched a video where someone pointed out that the plastic dampens the ultrasonic waves or something. would also be interesting to see a side by side of same jar and liquid left for same time outside the cleaner for comparison. then you can see what a difference the cleaner makes

Such an underrated channel, good work!

One thing I'd definitely check is if every part of the housing and the water container (especially if you're gonna stick your fingers in there while it's plugged in) is properly earthed, that can be a problem with Chinese produced electric appliances...

A well placed finger near an ultrasonic water fogger feels like a nail through the finger bones. The pain isn't so bad that you won't be tempted to try it a few times to make sure it really did hurt that bad. Haven't played with a cleaner though.

I think they are upside down in the box as the ultrasonic transducers are stuck to the bottom of the pan (and hang down), so right way up in transit could make them fall off with vibration etc. The one I ordered 1 was rattling around inside, and I had to epoxy it back on to the pan. Mine was right way up in the box, was about 2 years ago so maybe they have learnt... :)

How much did it cost? Where did you get it from? Cool video by the way, very informative. For cleaning the piston better use organic solvents like Acetone or Dimethylformamide

As an old Jeweller who's used ultrasonics for 45yrs, NEVER insert your hands it's while running! We had a Trade school Teacher who'd done just that over many years & it had affected the bones in his hands... ...so much so that he could no longer pick up or hold anything with his fingers. Also all parts should be "suspended" within an ultrasonic, NOTHING should be resting on the bottom of the tank. Ideally that supplied basket should have its handles bent outwards so it'll hang from the sides & allow any jars to have their tops open & above the water surface. For cleaning jewellery our "everyday" mix was water, dishwashing liquid & a good splash of ammonia. And a warning to anyone contemplating cleaning the Wife's jewellery to win some brownie points... ...there's a quite a number of precious & semi-precious stones that should NEVER go into an ultrasonic, so be warned!! HTH, Colin

Sometimes it is worth to RTFM. For example, it is written there, how you can change the timer for longer runs ;)

I use big mason jars with rubber seals to submerge small parts in volatile chemicals the seals are easy to replace and the glass won't get damaged.

How much did it cost? I need one for really tiny parts like for microscopes etc. Some of the set screws on them are like 1mm by 3mm and are covered in rust. I can't very well put those in the Evaporust as there isn't a small enough mesh and I would like a better way to clean the rust off. This would also let me do something other than cleaning constantly!

I have a bigger version similar in size to a real ultrasonic bath I used at a motorcycle shop. It gets the job done, but not as quickly as the expensive one the bike shop had. It also seems to have a less powerful heater. Still 10/10 considering the price.

It would have been nice to see what would happen if you put one part in your cleaning solution WITHOUT the ultrasound turned on and another WITH it turned on. It's hard to tell whether the ultrasound did the work or whether just soaking it in that solvent did the job. I have one of this exact kind of ultrasound machine - and I strongly suspect that the heat it produces, along with the solvent is more effective than the ultrasound. But I have not had the time to do a careful test.

I got the 3L version of that recently to clean parts after being tumbled, so far so good but it takes an age to heat up the water and didn't seem to have enough power to get above 50°c but for my purposes that's not really an issue. I got mine off eBay UK from a Chinese seller with stock in a UK warehouse, one thing I found to my expense is if you make an offer they jack the price then make a counter offer higher than the buy it now price you've made an offer on and I swear all the different sellers are the same guy as they all jack the prices up at the same time, make another offer and they go up again. BIN Price when I made an offer was something like £39, paid £45 but by the time I'd got it the BIN price was £75!

theres a new jafromobile video where he experiments with a big ultrasonic cleaner, using crankshafts, cylinder heads, pretty interesting stuff

Could you canabalise the motive parts and waterproof, then attatch to your bbq plate with a magnet or clamp and drop the whole thing in a bathtub? it looks like it needs the little rigid tub to transmit the ultrasonic waves so could you flip it around and make it clean the container it's inside and magentically attatched to, get a swimming pool and drop in the whole lathe. I do expect the effectivenes would drop tremendously,

That moment when he stuck his bare hand into the water…..😂😂😂😂 then said….. Not sure if you should do that 😦😂😂😂😂 so great

How loud is the unit? I've used lab grade stuff and they appear to be a lot quieter than the Ebay ones for similar effectivness. Have they improved the noise since (roughly 2016)?

purple degreaser will clean the piston. It is sold as "Purple Power" here in the states. It will darken aluminum if you leave it in for weeks but we use it on aluminum often and it works great.

Putting fingers into Ultrasonic baths depends strongly on the strengh of the ultrasonic transducers. But anything not highly industrial (anything on amazon should be fine) should be safe.

Reason its packeaged upside down is the transducers are glued to the bottom of the tank. Hence, they are the correct orientation for shipping

Why 50c? I would have thought a higher temperature would have been more effective. Please note this is a question not a recommendation. I got a tiny one of these for my wife's rings but I use it to clean my small tools stuff and leatherman. Mine is not heated. Does an OK job with pretty dirty jewelry

Have you, or could you, measure the actual Wattage of your ultrasonic cleaner. My cleaner is listed as 180 watts for the ultrasonic transducers. When I measure it with a Kill-a-Watt meter using only the ultrasonic function of the cleaner, it measures between 110 and 135 watts. I would be interested in knowing what your model is rated as and the actual power consumption. You posted a great video and I appreciate the information you provided.

I enjoyed this video way to much

have you tried an Egg in there? Will it scramble in the shell?

Im using some cheap cold motor cleaner for my oily and dirty parts, maybe that will work for the engine piston.

So a year has passed since you made this video. Im assuming you learned thru trial and error what the best cleaning solution is by now. Im looking to buy a "cheap model" from Harbor freight and would appreciate any recommendations. Ill mainly be cleaning small engine carbs and parts. (Mainly just carburetors). I have some older small engines (Wisconsin) that cheap Chinese replacements aren't available online so I've decided to try and clean them myself. Thanks in advance for any and all advice!!!

I wonder how effective transmission is via plastic bag and that container. I'd guess plastic bag would be much better. Or maybe metal cup? Could be interesting to test.

How about trying powdered laundry detergent? I say this because it's excellent for cleaning ovens, cooktops etc.

In case you’re still wondering, ultrasonics use fluid as a medium, blood is fluid. You parts in an ultrasonic bath can = cavitation happening inside your veins.

I'm wondering, can anyone explain this: I really expected the plastic bag to get punctured by the vibrating grate it is resting on, but obviously that doesnt happen. So it must be the fluid that prevents points of friction by uniformly spreading the wave, but that just raises more questions. If the plactic bag and the metal grate vibrate in sync in the fluid how does the cleaning work? Surely somewhere friction must be created

I have one of these, just a bit smaller. The ceramic heater failed after few uses, seller wouldn't do anything about it. Still have to order a replacement. Before I had an even smaller and cheaper one, the US transducer failed. My recommendation, be easy to them.

Do two 5 min clean cycles. Flipping over between each cycle. Be interesting to see how it works with a bearing.

Baum's Castorine makes a really good cleaner for getting hydrocarbons off alloy parts... just soak over night and scrub with a nylon brush. "Proteco Clean 115"

I would like to see if you put two of the same parts , 1 just with your cleaner and 1 with the same cleaner in the ultra sonic bath and then compare.

what's a better container for this job? a plastic jar, a glass jar, a zip lock bag?

Just wondering what kind of accent you have whilst using materials with German labels !? Anyway... subscribed

I am letting to get my suppressor cleaned what solvent would you recommend. It’s titanium and stainless

For years I've used thin wall Pyrex beakers to hold my cleaning solutions..... Plastic containers don't pass ultrasonic vibrations so well. Have never thought of using plastic baggies however. They might be thin enough to not impede energy transfer.... Maybe I leaned something today....

Do you think the ultrasonic part works works well on this machine or is it that you are using the cleaning product heated. Would be good to see comparison with unheated, heated and heated with ultrasonic.