LOL

@Travis Ireland LOL I have 888 for 2 years not single time need to throw it 😂😂😂😂😂

Yeah that's the only thing that's keeping me from buying right. It looks like a toy that comes in happy meals 🤣😆

@@supersabrosinho that is 100% what I'm going through rn😄

@@els1f I went ahead and bought it. I've never worked with such an nice iron, well worth it!

Not bad. I know some software guys that use those wunhunglo 10 dollar irons on government equipment.

Haha my thoughts exactly. You've convinced me and I'll get mine now

i dont have much of a problem with it as i dont need to change temperature that much, but i do agree that changing temperature is a huge pain.

For UI the Weller is easy but if u never change temps and use it for light use the Weller would work

its programming VCR timer interface :/ + looks like HAKKO lies about temperature - doesnt show the drop for couple of seconds, like garbage chinese clones

Is it odd that I just want a knob to adjust temperature? It's almost immediate, and it's like having potentially infinite 'memories'. Repeatedly mashing buttons to get to a given temperature range doe not inspire me to want one of these things. I change temperature enough when I'm working that this is a major consideration for me. I get that there are 'memories' with the digital buttons, but I can't see how those would be easy to access, or remember what temp is in what location. All this is solved by a knob or two.

@@KevinJDildonik It's odd that the Weller shows places for presets. That's probably gonna be a "-P" model coming out later for another $50.

It was excellent

Seems like there is some delay

well if its a drop of 1-3 c i doubt you are gonna notice it in soldering maybe im wrong a drop of 1-2 c in cpu heat isnt that great either, when your cpu is hot u wanna keep it in the 30-50c range

EEVblog Alternative theory: The Weller sensor is (thermally) closer to the tip, so if the tip drops to 200, the Weller shows it, while the Hakko won't show until the material in between has been cooled down. Similarly, the Hakko might show the core getting hot before the heat has propagated to the tip.

John I think thats it, because there is space between the tip and heating element of the Hakko the heating element doesn't cool down that fast. Also Maybe the Weller transformer has less A, couldn't see it, so it needs longer to heat up and the Hakko can hold the temp better because maybe of one more amp. But there is a mod for that Hakko tips, wrapping some thin copper around the heating element.

Definitely. It looks like the Weller has the heating element on the outside of the tip and the thermocouple inside the bore in the tip. The result is that the Weller will display a much more honest tip temperature. The Hakko must have both the heating element and the thermocouple inside the bore, which means it measures the temperature of the heating element, and not the actual tip. Due to the design difference, you cannot use the internal thermometers to do a comparison. They simply do not measure the same thing. The wet sponge against the shaft is completely pointless, which is also confirmed by the actual soldering test.

Right on!!! I have five WTCP's and they'll still be doing the job when I put the other foot in.

If I could go back in time to buy American products, I would. Unfortunately, that era is long gone thanks to American laziness and greedy American CEOs. God Bless America.

Yea i think weller actually senses temp of the tip while hakko senses temp of a heater. Cuz the heater doesnt actually cool down but the tip does.

That is what is swaying me toward the Weller. Would it really have cost Hakko anything meaningful to put another button on it?

What's your favourite soldering station?

Simon Ashton The “i-tool” irons for the icon stations are great. I have the nano. Wonderfully short distance from grip to tip, and the heating performance wipes the floor with the irons in this video.

Charles Tivendale Yup I think Roger over on KainkaLabs did a great job on a video about the Atten Digital soldering iron temperature discrepancies. Although he was doing a video about fixing the problem and looking at how Atten's 2 wire elements sense temperature with a thermocouple in series with the element. The overshoot and calibration temp are usually way off, as are the maximum temperature. I don't trust any of the ones I've owned, but I've never owned or been enslaved by someone with a fat "pro's" wallet. I've never caught up to Mr Jones's and his '$500k pencil.'

A gay on one forum tested soldering stations tip temperature.He measured the tip temperature and absolute winner is old Weller magnastat.

The Hakko is a bullshit artist. Huge lag on the display vs actual tip temp and creative "Brakes" when it get to temp. the Hakko is a toy.

Fair call.

EEVblog Thanks for the reply! I’m a sophomore in High School (USA). I got the 888d as a Christmas present over a year ago! It’s wonderful :D

Louis Rossmann Have you tried any Metcal / OKI stuff with the curie point tips? I've used Metcal for about 12 years (since using them in electronics factories), and never felt the need for manual temperature control. As you say, the whole point of them is that they boost the RF power to the copper slug in the tip, so work great on both small SMT stuff and large ground planes. I agree - I don't think I could ever go back to using an iron with a heater that is "indirectly" heating the tip.

The near instant heat irons are great, but are there any in the $100 price bracket?

Around $230 now gets 120 watts of American Pace power ( ukposts.info/have/v-deo/hnWGpp-Ppo-B24U.html )

I built a home made Hakko knock off station using a 33 volt transformer from a old hi fi amp and one of those EBay Hakko knock off wands and a few parts from that old hi fi amp and it will out perform bolt of these with a 8 second warm up time

ps I do use real Hakko chisel tips

RIP Fry's...

Yep. I'd probably set 25C increments.

id prefer a non digital temp control and just a digital display for temp like the knobs, set it whatever display tells ur the real current temp thats all you need, next they will be wireless and connecting your soldering station to the internet

Thanks.

Eyem1337, After I Bought mine, I then found videos- "real vs fake hakko 888d" I was so happy when I knew mine was genuine, so look for knock offs, and Spend the extra money when you buy the other size tips, Tests show non hakko tips gave poor performance, I'm an old mechanic and this thing changed my soldering life I LOVE it.

@@stclairstclair ditto!

@@captainscottlum2371 Soldering with this unit is like driving a formula 1 car next to Toyota's.

Space Jesus Dogstar - The Hakko 926 is famously reliable. My 30 year old still works fine with the original iron.

My Hakko took a few dives off my bench and it's working like a champ

Justin Nink The mark of a true engineer is a lack of coordination!

I have a Hakko 926 that I won as a prize for work skills industrial electronics regional finals here in Perth (I represented Perth twice and received two 926's ;) The one I still have (my ex business partner has the other) has run like a champ for ~ 26 years, the only thing I have ever replaced are the tips :) Mine has had things hit it, been dropped off stages etc. I now own a 888D which is my go to Iron for general work BUT my 926 has a big chisel tip of the bigger ground plane joints :)

EEVblog let me see in 2027 :) both are good brand. But I prefer more the industrial looking ugly German Ursula :)

Futuristic tonka toy! LOL

Why do they insist on making these things look like cheap toys that are from the vision of the 'future' that Hollywood had in the 90's?

@@Maskddingo because japenses like designs that are simple. Probaly what makes there stuff last so long.

@@Kameron-The-Crafter um no. You don't have to look like a toy to be simple. In fact, making it look like a toy makes it more complex and thus less reliable. Love classic Haako, but they have lost their way IMHO.

You make SGI look bad!

Wow, great observation! Now I know why I like them so much. Just take a look at the O2s ...

@@csabasanta5696 O2 was actually a giant soldering iron in disguise

No, the Weller start going up the instant you press the button, it's only the display that lags.

The Sponge Porn channel!

Careful. The #metoo people will find that offensive, probably.

LOL, thanks.

Are you not able to return undamaged tech where you live? (except tin of course)

But soldering irons get dirty and oxidized as fast as you turn them on (and the cheaper ones even more) and for the 10$ he spent on the welder wasn't worth it to lose more time with it. Pd: I live within the european union so yes we are able to do it.

Well, I'm in germany and I would still be able to give it back to a local store after 13 days of use, for no good reason or when it's broken. I may have to buy something else from them, but that's fine. I rather buy online though because there's an obvious reason here why everything is cheaper there, yet I'd still be able to get my money back for no reason, while they pay the shipping fee. I guess we're more altruistic than Americans, because I haven't heard of much people abusing that.

WELL said!

Then you were lucky. Right now, the Hakko FX888D here in Spain is at 140 € ($165)! Really expensive in comparison with the US at less than 100 € ($120). Buying the US version and a transformer for 230V to 120V is cheaper than buying the European version! EDIT: Just found it for less than 120 € sold by Amazon itself! Good news for me!

Arnþór Gíslason my hakko doesn’t get hot at all

Not a problem with these.

Leaded, here. I use my 888 at 315 to 335C. To summarize: I can't tell the iron is on/off by the temp of the handle. I can and do use the iron for many hours at a time, and it does not change. My method is to turn it on when I first need it for the day, and it is pretty much left on until I am done for the day other than for tip changes. It is many times that I have picked it up and tried to solder, and after a few seconds of pressing and wondering what gives, I finally realize I haven't turned it on, yet. The thing that finally registers for me is the lack of flux smoke. There's no perception of handle temperature. Chinese 936/888 knockoffs? Hooyah, many of them get hot right quick at the same set temps. I purchased one, recently, and the handle gets hot within 1 minute of turning it on; uncomfortably hot within 5 minutes. One of the clone handles now comes with a feature that automatically throttles down the temperature when the handle heats up to avoid damage. So instead of offering a more expensive handle with better construction and materials, they can continue to sell bottom dollar junk by cheaping out and imposing a duty cycle on the handpiece. 20 minutes of work, manually turn it off and let it have 40 min to cool down. Or simply leave it on and let it reach half your set temp forever after. There IS technology in these "old-fashioned" stations. There's nothing special in the electronics. There are no fancy software algorithms. The technology and experience is in the materials science and engineering and manufacturing methods in the handpiece and heater. I suppose regulations against asbestos are pretty effective, else cheap clones would just load their handpiece plastic with it and be able to compete with the real thing.

@Ampor Gislason: update: having just experienced this issue, I have to append my previous statement. It depends on what you are soldering! If your duty cycle is very high and your joints are sinking a lot of heat, the 888 handle can get uncomfortably hot. If you are doing continuous production work with large joints, the 888 is not the best at this, regarding handle temp!

very interesting, thank you

Ah, makes sense, thanks.

No Problem, I think we found the same online source where the guy says "u is to reset". I had to do some further digging. lol

I don't know any kind of Asian who would think that makes sense.

Robert Heal One is for the Asian Market and the other is for the US market. The rest of the world is of no consequence.

Robert Heal - Lol, you're right, it doesn't. I like to see it as U for USA, and A for All Other Countries.

agree my fave

TS100 is for kids, not pros

Damn, thought there was a scratch in my display...

Which Metcal do you have that I can buy retail for $100? I would like to get one.

napalmspyros Same, I'd also be curious!

Yep, been meaning to get one. It was supposed to be part of this shootout but I was lazy.

EEVblog Get the iCON nano instead. It’s just a few euros more, but is ESD safe, and made in Germany, not China.

They stopped selling em it looks like! I want that iron!

The Weller actually seems to do the same thing.

If japenses tools are known for any thing its how long the last. They do keep designs very simple too.

Funny thing, I got my Hakko from a hardware store. Home Depot to be exact. Was surprised to see it there but glad it was there cause I had a gift card given to me by my dad so it was free for me.