I use broken carbide endmills as gage pins, most of the dimensions I make things to are round numbers and the shanks are usually ground to within a very tight tolerance so is perfect for this use.

I think it's worth mentioning that quite a bit can be done with old files that are worn, and I've had a great luck making form tools out of old fashioned screw plates. And I know the conventional wisdom is to avoid mystery steel, but my favorite boring bar for over a decade now was made out of the forged forks of an ancient miniature crane. It's ugly but it holds an edge like nothing else. We spend so much for the simplest tools in this hobby, this is wise to make use of it down to the chips. And then recycle those.

Once again I find myself repeating what I sain in previous comments - your videos are spectacular. It's very refreshing to see the likes of yourself and Quinn from Blondihacks do hobby level machining videos for the likes of myself who haven't quite got the space or the money for a full on bridgeport/colchester machine shop. The frequency of your videos is also astonishing. Really shows a fantastic work ethic. Please keep going, Mr. Artisan. Loving the work.

Well... I'm using worn out small size endmills as boring bars in the CNC lathe, when there's a need to bore a conical surface in some really small diameter holes, like 5-6 mm... Just putting the most good looking cutting edge in upwards position, setting a tool offset for it, and it's ready to go.

I think drill shanks are fairly soft. I've heard (from the internet) that the shank is intentionally left soft. It could be so the hardened jaws of a chuck can get a really good grip. Anything with flats might be harder but it probably depends a lot on the brand.

Some of my favorite tools are made to utilise broken or odd stubs of hss and carbide. Fly cutter bodies are easy to make and can be very effective. Some of mine I have used weekly for near 30 years. You only need a bench grinder - and some polishing stones or diamond laps used to refine the cutting edge - to made an endless variety of special purpose tooling. Learn to grind your own tooling. Spade drills, left handed drills made from junk etc can really save your day. Want a radius or chamfering cutter to use in your boring head on the mill? A broken end mill may be just the thing with a flat ground on it to seat the clamping screw. Another source - HSS drill blanks are cheap and come in a huge range of diameters. I have a boring bar tool body and bushing set i made to clamp a range of micro boring bars made from small drill blanks.

This is a good way to re-use broken endmills! We did it that way, too. It would be a pity for the good material. And last but not least, it saves money!

I use 1/8 carbide tools to make tips for scribes. Spin it in a drill to make a nice point on the grinder, and use a piece of aluminum or whatever to make a handle.

As always, great content! I’ve made a bunch of different things from old HSS, including center punches for specific hole sizes.

I never saw you using that "white grinding wheel" to make your tools. Since I've tried that stuff to grinding my tools I've never changed. It's made for hard metal, and it gives you a better finish for the edge of the tool and save time as well, because you don't need to normalize the material. Try that if you have the opportunity. Great video!!!

Always like your videos. I’ve turned a broken center drill into a lathe center. Works well enough and it does not ever seem to need sharpening

I often sharpen broken centre drills and use them as a centre punch which works pretty good

Good and appropriate use and recycling of still useful cutting materiel. Well done! Thanks for sharing!

These are great tips! The really small pieces can still be braised and used that way. I've never really understood why one is not supposed to use end Mills on the lathe. One of my favorite Time savers it is an enormous one inch by 7-in solid carbide end mill with fairly square corners. It's junk from off of eBay, but it's decent enough carbide to hold up forever. I made a taper shank arbor for it, it's in my tail stock more often than not. I've completely quit drilling the small holes and working my way up, I think this is far more efficient although I recognize most books disagree. I don't know if these are available in your country, but they're very easily spotted on us eBay. They are always located in towns far too small for any manufacturing and the prices are typically a quarter of any known brand. They are junk if you are expecting a solid finishing tool. They're fantastic if you're looking for something to abuse and smash through work.

I haven't bought more than 3 HSS sqaure shanks in my entire life of machining. Been doing it for 20 years. I asked my boss if I could take the scrap HSS and carbide inserts home and was told yes we don't have enough to make recycling worth it. I have lots of everything.

Nice work and a great video. I too re-purpose drills and mills . Last time I made an inside grooving tool. Another source of tillage is those threading insert from a threading tool, they have a left hand geometry and can be easily adapted forturning a right hand thread from left to right with tool inverted and reverse rotation ( ala Joe Pie). Enjoyed, thanks for the video and cheers!

Clever reuse. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

They are also very good as securing pins for templates, gigs and the like 👍

Someone's gonna find that deburring tool in the future and think you were drilling centers by hand, lol

Some neat ideas here. Thanks for posting!

Great info as always, thanks for sharing Cheers

They can be hand ground to a fishtail shape. Use a small trisquare to get the two cutting tips even. These kind of cutters are sometimes called slot cutters and work very well cutting keyways as the shape pulls the cutter in.

AFAIK nowadays HSS endmills and drill bits are often not solid HSS but a HSS business end welded to the mild steel shank during the production process. That may explain why shanks are often impossible to get hard enough. Often you even can see the weld line because of colour difference

some great ideas, thx :) I usually use broken 1/8 tools to make scribing tools (have a video on that). Keep up the great work 👍

I always love your videos. Thanks.

On my desktop cnc. I use broken end mills as indexing pins to locate parts. I started out using drill bits but they just didn't have a proper diameter. I found end mills are a lot more true to advertised size.

I make my own lathe tools from broken or dull endmills.. Since i use CNC machines i regularly use 4mm endmills in Titanium, going 10 mm deep per pass, using HSM toolpaths. When they break or get dull i regrind them into Cutting inserts on the lathe. I use a Diamond Cupwheel on a cheap manual lathe that is mostly used as a tool grinder nowadays.. I made my own holders as well, these work fine, i use these on all materials. With a Cupwheel on my "Makeshift Toolgrinder"i can also make boringbars.. indeed Ø4 mm boringbars..

Made a one off lathe tool bit from a chunk of broken carbide. Been using it for years now.

Good vid! Very useful. Thank you.

Thanks for sharing

I like the behind the scenes, set up operations, and your commentary on machining. Great video as always

I have a little box full of broken endmills and use them to make scribes, lathe tooling. Hell my favorite cutter for the lathe is an old endmill.

When I was “on the tools” we used to harden HSS and “silver steel”. Heat to a very dull just barely red, water quench, then temper to a straw yellow.

New subscriber. I too keep broken tooling for this purpose.

Very Nice. I do the same with broken taps

Use broken drill bits and tools or even springs for hard steel that you can fuse to anything, and make very hard tools. I quenched in water immediately while glowing hot, without tempering and unsurprisingly the tool steel that was melted onto regular steel, was unbelievably hard and durable though brittle.

Good video, as a reward I'll give you another handy mod. On the shank end of your drill bit grind a fairly broad point, angle is not critical, but you don't want to have an excessively long taper. Now you can use a soft hammer on your new precision transfer punch set. Plus you haven't had to wait for dead drill bits to make them :)

Very good 👍👍👍

I'm thinking of making a hole transfer punch from the stainless steel shafts or drill bits. I will need to harden the tip after making it look like a pencil tip on a lathe. do you think it's doable? how to harden the stainless steel shaft tip to last and remain sharp?

I have been collecting broken tool too because I now there good steel. Now I have ideas of what to do with them besides as tool chest ballast😂s

Thanks

You can also grind carbide ones into amazingly good scribes.

Very good video!!! Lovely!!! My comfort point - at least not only my tool grinding look bad... ;) Just protect your lungs - carbide dust is toxic!

All ways thought about grinding them into tapered square style easy outs but haven’t tryed yet.

I don't have any broken end mills but I do have a good number of blunt endmills.

Thank you, to see that someone else also has full box of these broken low diameter fu*kers makes me feel better. 😀

Good 👍👍👍👍👍👍

You need a cutter grinder. If you don't wanna invest in a good one. Just go for the attachment device and figure out to combine it with your toolpost grinder. Or a bench grinder. You can make some pretty awesome cutting edges once you get the hang of it.

Broken carbide shanks for grinding carbide spade drills. It can drill through taps and drills.

what about the round inserts? for what are you using for on the mini lathe???

Careful grinding carbide, it's definitely gnarly stuff.

Use quenching oil for hardening those bits, you will achieve much better results.

What coolant are you using, what ratio isit?

You can heat up the shank to a dull yellow glow, let it aircool and it should harden up just enough

To hardening use old oil from diesel oil change. Filter it using a coffee filter.

never tried with broken end mills but you can use broken drill bits as hardfacing rod.

I'm a blacksmith and we had to learn to harden High Speed steel. It is a lot more involved than just hardening and tempering medium to high carbon steels. I haven't even tried it since learning it in school many years ago. It is a lot cheaper to buy blanks and grind tools from the blank.

welding them together to make a longer drill bit...

What do you mean by lock the table at 0:22? If you lock the table, how will you mill?? I don't do any milling, I did it a few times back in college and now i only watch videos of milling.

I'm gonna take it in mind Hss and specialy carbide for sure are useful Btw I'm looking for a 600-700 mil and 500-600 USD (if it can be purchased in Amazon it will be even better)

Interesting you struggle to heat treat HSS. It is one of the simplest steels to harden ,being an air hardening tool steel, literally get it cherry red and toss it on the bench and you will get 62 rockwell. Maybe your gas torch isnt getting there temperature wise. I have used it a lot in my blacksmithing activities, as buying lathe tool blanks from China is a good cheap source of HSS for making chisels and knives. This would of course also be a good use of broken tools.

if you wanna harden em with a torch like that you'll probably need to grab an acetylene or map torch instead of the butane. its just too cold to get it to temp in the open air. if youve got an enclosed space thats fireproof butane/propane can work. good luck!

You can harden the steel, just get a color table from the Internet for your steel. And for youre tools that you make with the grinder, you should take a look at the specific angles

I have tried forging old end mills. It crumbled when you hit it when hot. Sort of scary

BB endmill, from aliexpress. But they are good

👍👍👍

You don’t run into balance issues doing this?

a normal 6mm's shank is normally ground to 5.996 ( at lease the few 100's of carbide ones i mesured with a mic and cmm ( cmm said 5.9965 but the temps wasent right to trust it that much so i just said 5.996 was wha i belived )

Does this work with broken taps, there carbide or high speed steel will they work?

sometimes we grind them so that we can use them as engraver bits

The video angle may deceive, but: At least 08:30 it looks like your tool-holder is binding to the work piece. Are you sure the tool-holder has enough clearance?

We don't throw them away in my shop either, oh wait I don't have a shop...

My understanding is that these tools are heated, then cooled to create a certain strength. Some data I ran into showed that even after cooling, meaning on a later date, you can cool the tool further for more strength. But strength also means brittle. So you need to know which tool you want to keep in the freezer lol. Interesting thing to know though, that you can keep cooling it at a later date with very similar results.

I use broken end mills to drill out broken screws, bolts, ect...

I use a small diamond grinder to make single lip engraving tools and small radius tools from mostly 1/8" mill shanks that the cutting surfaced blew off of. Getting an old deckel grinder is a great idea too, as you can often pick them up for a song, and they are great for "pyramid" engravers.

Merhaba ustam şişenin içindeki ne yağı

👍💯👍.

👍😎👍

If you are going to make your iron harder then you should cool it in oil not in water then your iron should be harder. Greetings M from Belgium

2:25 I'm dead

Just use em as pins fpr setup or resell the material. As a shop owner you have to consider the cost of making something out of a 50 dollar endmill. Say it takes a guy that you pay 20 bucks an hour to make a tool out of an endmill and it takes him a half hour. You spend 10 bucks having him make a tool that probably costs 10 bucks to just buy. Now consider the time that this guy could be using to run a machine that makes you 100+ an hour. That 10 bucks is now $60. Remember your endmill was only $50 to begin with. You're now -$10 in the hole. For a hobbyist, sure. Do whatever you want. But running a shop I wouldn't bother making anything other than a pin because the pin is already technically made the second the endmill breaks.

At 2:35 was that an amogus?

Dont stop your imagination!

wait, what? end mills can break???

What???? BSP threads are 47.5 degrees Whitworth threads are 55 degrees.

There's a lot of boring bars ya got lying around there.

⚠😆👉This is not a drill ➡🔨 and not all bars are boring!

Use oil to quench it it's better then using water

hgf

I see your lathe is stalling. There's no reason why you can't use a 1hp 3ph with a VFD. My 1943 South Bend came with a 1/4 hp I switched it to the above.

Feeding in the wrong direction to the rotary detection of the tool lol, common knowledge ate worst lol

Climb milling broke that endmill...

$30 end mill? JAJAJAJA try 300+ on the larger ones we use, and they break just like the cheapos.

Every sentence ends with him adding ugh to the last word. Really annoying