100% completely agree and also, this is nowhere near "True Level", and if you think you can even approach it with your sad naked caveman eyeball, and a bubble of f****** air, you're the reason this species is a failure and it makes me angry. You want to put up a shelf, put up a shelf. you want to experience true level? Do You??? Anyway, you aren't gonna get anywhere near true level without picking your measurement point in the center, then using a laser level to set all the other points on the platform. Also you didnt set anything in concrete. I am guessing your building codes dont require inspections on anything under 200 square feet. Personally I balk at anything where the government is telling me what to do, but I would have at least set the floor joists vertically and used the proper sizes.

I agree 100 percent. I have never seen this before.

And as a result the floor is "bouncy". Great concept though. Laser levels are the way to go..

Thanks for the video. Yep - I agree with Mr. Allard. I've been designing homes and remodels for 25 years. I have never laid my joists flat. However, depending on the load conditions and the spacing and span of the joists a 2x4 on edge may be adequate but a 2x6 will definitely provide a better floor.

@@guysolis5843 Bouncy is good for your knees and hips. I have even bouncier for that very reason. I do without the 2 by 4, the sheathing goes right on the uprights. Load bearing is sufficient for normal house and kitchen stuff. I do admit that a floor standing cabinet for glassware would be a rattly affair but that's what walls are for. I borrowed the idea from the way office spaces with floating floors are made. Concrete floor with adjustable steel spacers 10" tall on a 24" raster. On top of that square tiles 2" thick particle board (offices are not yet up to speed on a bit of flex in a floor). It's extremely practical for everything piping and wiring, lift a tile or 2 and you can modify whatever you want.

Water hose level, yes they still use these but not in home construction...mitx mainly used in water works, pool building ect

Yeah, I used one. You have to have a good partner to use them well. I bought a laser level.

I’ve also used a water level. It is extremely accurate.

yes i used a water level setting scaffolding

Local #10 as a young man. Then 30 years as a roofer local #20. Early 80s bad for Ironworkers in Kansas City. Freaking Carter.

Great to hear and thanks for watching Brian.

I agree. Floor joist should be in standing position to make it stronger and support heavy load and vibration.

Not to mention the post&beam method requires the post to be buried and properly secured in the ground to prevent uplift and movement of the aboveground structure during high winds. Some basic engineering principles need to be applied to every construction project in order to be safe and long lasting.

hi, can you post the link for the book again

Nothing beats a water level

CMUs piers are cheaper and more reliable than plastic and are able to be shimmed after settling. The idea of using 4x4s for rim joists is strange, especially when using a 4 and 8 footer to span 12 feet. Doubling up 2x4s and staggering the joint would make more sense but not as much as a single 12 foot 2x6. I hope no one is persuaded to construct a deck like this including the incorrectly oriented floor joists.

Great to hear you mention Larry Haun, he taught me all I ever needed to know about framing. I also have bad knees and hips so all my floors have a bit of bounce using a system very similar which is common here in office buildings with floating floors (without the bounce). The maximum span is 36" between supports, a 2 by 4 flat will do just fine.

Thanks so much for all the support BT! It was a great experience to be a part of this project with you and the foundation is as solid as can be :)

A vaccination center.

$219 for 24 pieces of plastic - I hope they paid you enough for this commercial

@@BYOTools 3. ? My iok l.p.

Hopefully he doesnt put much on top of it since he built it completely wrong. You never use 2x4 joists and you never lay them flat hahaha

GREAT question and thanks so much for bringing this up. I should have mentioned it in the video but here goes. It’s because of the floor joist spacing and the fact that the panels come pre-cut. I would’ve had to stagger one of the floor joists in a different layout in order for the seams to work out correctly. I didn’t account for that ahead of time and by the time I realized it it was too late since everything was nailed down. Those ring shank nails are hard to pull out that where in the floor joists. Thanks again for bringing this question up.

Do not trust moving the clear tube by raising the ends of the tube to remove air bubbles. A container with water should be used and place one end of the tube in the container of water then with the other end of the tube syphon water to flow out the lower end of the tube. Water will flow out of the tube (gravity) when water is flowing without bubbles block end tightly with a thumb and raise end of tube about the same level as the tube in the container. DO NOT BLOCK THE ENDS OF TUBES WITH CORKS ETC WHILE USING THE LEVEL AS IT WILL GIVE FALSE READINGS. THE ENDS MUST BE OPEN. Determine a datum at the required height and do not move from that datum until all points are marked. Never if using some one to assist trust that person! Always after marking the new level level point ask your assistant to look at the datum point mark and tell you when the water in the tube reaches the original datum mark as you are raising/lowering the tube at your end you just marked. When the water reaches the original datum mark and the assistant indicates it is on the original datum mark check the new mark coincides with the datum. Any discrepancy will show that your assistant cannot be trusted. It is far better to fix the tube very lightly at each end without crushing the tube and walk back and forward adjusting the tube at the datum end and when the water is at the datum mark go to the other end of the tube and mark the water at the new level. You can check that the two marks are the same level by placing the water on the new mark and going back to the datum to see if it coincidence. Standing on the tube will give false readings so will strong winds. REMEMBER NEVER TRUST YOUR ASSISTANT!!!!!! While moving the tube to each level point place your thumb on the end of the tube to prevent loss of water. Never flick the tube over obstacles as this will put air bubbles in the tube as well. Good luck regards Johnno

@@johnnothegreat8907 Excellent explanation and tips for using a water level. Another thing I learned (the hard way) was that it's much easier if you use 1/2" or larger clear tubing than 1/4" tube. I think with the smaller diameter it's harder to overcome the friction inside the tube and maybe the surface tension of water. With small diameter tube the water moves slowly and takes a long time to settle on your mark. You are constantly moving the tube up and down and waiting for the water level to settle. Thanks again!

shoulda woulda coulda

Well said and thanks so much for watching. Greatly appreciate the support :)

Very common to save height but probably not up to code

That's not common . The only time lumber is laid down flat, is for the decking, which goes over upright beams. I have an auger with a 6 inch bit, 3 ft deep. I paid about $250 for it. Never lets me down. I string, I drill all the holes for my fences, decks , etc in minutes. I drop the posts, brace, level , attach some beams temp, to keep them in line , faced and spaced. Concrete all the posts at once. Clean up go home. I use a laser and cut the posts to height. After the rims and joints, I run my Makita power planer over it. Plywood on an outdoor floor,? Dear God

Plumb bobs and water levels take some beating.

Thanks so much! Keep up the amazing work on your channel as well :)

No, don't follow this guy's video. He's not a carpenter.

They’re way older than that bub

How do these numbers take into account for the capillary action?

Exactly. True carpenters have the best time saving tricks..

that's what I was looking for - basic common sense, making life easy. thanks!

I believe he's in the pacific northwest.

this is a shed .. not a house

Haha! Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. I was sick the last couple of days and my voice was rough! Better late then never this weekend right :)

@@BYOTools yeah! Have you recovered yet?

@@eszyx8062 Getting there. Much better then yesterday so thats a positive :)

But what did you think of the rest of the video? haha! Thanks for watching.

@@BYOTools i love the quality and the explanations. I really do. And i watch and even recommend for that. But i have to be in the right frame of mind because of the heighth thing, i agree, and i warn the people i am sending to. Not expecting it to change of course. Your videos to do with as you wish. If you've ever watched a chef john video, i would say it's the same part of the brain screaming, and he's my favorite creator.

I like his work and his videos but his voiceovers are unbearable sometimes. This guy either needs to go back to grammar school or hire a writer.

@@tnuggitz I totally agree

@@AlishaLouise you put it perfectly

The video shows that they are not resting on dirt. By digging down to solid soil and pouring 8" to 12" of crushed rock and compacting it provides an extremely durable foundation. And I love me some joist hangers but they are not needed in this type of application since the 2x4's are laying flat. If this was a build for a garage or house that is taking a tremendous amount of weight I would have the same concerns as you but that's not what we are building here :) Thanks so much for bringing these questions to light and thanks for watching. Hope you tune in for the next video to see what is being built.

@@BYOTools In PNW, I think we don't have to endure with hurricanes or tornadoes, so we don't have to worry about things flying away. I was wondering the same thing about what's keeping the tuff blocks on to the ground. I'm assuming the weight of the structure will take care of it, but I guess we'll see when you post the second video.

So true. There is extremely little joist support afforded by a flat 2x4. And I'm not a Civil Engineer.

There are a lot of places where a backyard shed of small dimensions do not require permits and do not need to meet usual building codes. These small structures are considered temporary and have no real estate tax impact. Yes, freedom is a good thing.

Here in Colorado, anything greater than 120 sf needs a permit and inspection. I build that size just to keep inspectors out of my yard. Once there, they like to look at everything you own but I always sink a steel anchor into a 4 foot tube of concrete to install my posts. Not willing to have my shed full of tools blowing over in the middle of winter.

Dido to the comment. So many things wrong with this ‘how not to’ video. I live in Kansas and this size building would not need to be permitted in my town. This structure wouldn’t last a single Fall’s wind.

Whats the code for a structure under 120 sf. Here in Colorado there is none.

@@guysolis5843 I am unsure of Colorado law but from an understanding and experience with several states all have a similar implementation: State law will adopt the IRC but list all the exceptions or deviation (there are very few) and allow for counties to make the other modifications by filing a document with the state outlining them. There will be very few of these, if any. Then your local municipality will have a building department where building permits are filed and at least one building inspector. Call the office and ask about the need to file a permit for your project. A good department will have a website with this information but will always respond to your request and I have never not been able to speak with the actual inspector. They actually respect anyone that call for advice. The limit for a structure’s square footage requiring a permit is anywhere from 100 to 400 sf.

I was wondering the same thing, or earthquakes.

Yeah, might as well convert that ting into a raised garden bed idk

Now that is a very good guess Jeremy :) Who's with him?

----- with an OSB floor ? I should hope not

If they are exposed to the elements you may be correct but not when this is going to be completely covered by a structure. Stay tuned for next week. Its a fun one :)

Luckily no but good question. Thanks for watching

If you have termites in your area what do you do about it with structures like this or even a deck?

@@BYOTools well one never knows with termites when they will arrive. So measures to prevent is always good. With a structure like yours where u cannot see under the deck that well a chemical barrier would be advisable under those posts. There are some very good low tox chemicals available on the market that would do that. Personally I like physical barriers where u force the termites to go over an area where they can be seen and then eliminated. To do that in your instance u would raise the posts off the ground forcing the termites to climb up the structure to attack the posts & thereby being able to see them.