What version of the arduino IDE are you using ?

yes, I had the same problem. thanks for the tip

Mine worked without capacitor

i am completely new in this. I lock the Videos more for fun as I use these infos.

I believe the new wiring uses the ISP header, but the old wiring just uses the pins. I may be wrong, so don't blame me if your sketch won't work.

You are correct (DIP8 pin 2) but so is Chris "PIN3" is PB3 and DIP2 ("PIN0/PB0" is on DIP5, for another example)

Hi!, those "unused" pins are not needed to program the attiny that's why he didn't hook them up. 2.- you can use pins 0, 1, 2 (or PB0, PB1 and PB2 which are the same) to control your led and 3 & 4 (or PB3 and PB4) to read your buttons. 3. you can find the name of each pin googling "attiny85 pinout" there are a bunch of images or 1->RESET 2->3 or A3 (analog input) 3 -> 4 or A2 (another analog input/digital IO) 4->GND 5->0 or MOSI, SDA 6 -> 1 or MISO 7 -> 2 or A1, SCK, SCL 8->VCC. Just to be clear #number from the attiny physcal pin -> number that you should use in your sketch. For example if you want to turn on an led with pin 0, first attacht it to physical pin #5 and in your sketch it should look something like this "digitalWrite(0, HIGH);" that should get the work done

@@pedrovelazquez6166 Thank you so much!

5 programmable GPIO equivalent pins (and a optional hack to use the reset pin as a 6th). Many more if you use external shift registers to expand.

probably wrong clock frequency setting, try varying at set up.

Same error, did you find a resolution?

same here

Problem solved: I should have used "Sketch" → "Upload Using Programmer" not just the "Upload" button!

@@GeorgMierau useful tip, thanks

did you figure it out?

Great question. I suspect both ATTiny and the LED would be stressed without a current limiting resistor. Perhaps the LED survives because of the one second off, following the one second on. I wonder if this could be left running for a long time, anyway. Many ATTinys have limited current current output - of the order of 30 mA. Overdriving a load could perhaps cause heating , or evrn breakdowns

I wouldn't say this is a very healthy way to drive an LED

According to the datasheet it can run: 4MHz @ 1.8v - 5.5v 10MHz @ 2.7v - 5.5v 20MHz @ 4.5v - 5.5v

Check out this link for ATtiny13. create.arduino.cc/projecthub/taunoerik/programming-attiny13-with-arduino-uno-07beba

@@mikes3801 attiny2313a ic program upload process please try but not successful

Did you figure it out?

@@Daniel-hd7gq Never got around to try it.

@@Daniel-hd7gq Will look at it the weekend again. If you sort it it please share. Notice that the author does not respond to comments or questions.

@@evertspies3345 I've eventually got it working pretty fast. Just had to download the right board lib. If you need help, let me know.

@@Daniel-hd7gq Hi thank you. I remembered that I did download the board library. There were a couple of them. Just had to get one that worked. I looked at what I had done then and found that I had made a few piggy back boards that plugged into the arduino uno for the different microcontrollers. I never did make one for the 2313 although. Used AVRDUDESS to program hex files. Would a appreciate the link to the library you used.

ATtiny = $1 // Teensy = 19.95 . Everything has their uses. Unless you need "computing technology" there is no need to use an expensive microcontrollers. An ATtiny85, ATtiny84 or an ATtiny10 in conjunction with other IC's will reduce your crafting costs by 15 bucks a build.

@@TrillShatner I was talking about the start of the vid where he says he uses an arduino nano. they cost around 10$, yet are super slow, even an order of magnitude slower than a basic 3$ arm chip.

@@goldenpiston8449 agreed, however not entirely sure if you can program one of these with a teensy.

@@TrillShatner sure you can program an ARM chip with a teensy

@@goldenpiston8449 Nice~ Thanks man