I just purchased my first lineman pliers. Can’t believe I’ve been doing my own electrical home improvement without them. They are very useful. And at Harbor Freight they only set me back $20. Good quality and heavy.

Hey Scott, A million videos.... I've told you a billon times not to exaggerate.😊

Yep, I'm so anal I like to grasp a bundle of wires with Vise-Grips to hold them in place about 1.5 inches where I twist with lineman pliers. Nice tight twist without creating a braid.

Klein makes a wire stripper with a fatter head to serve the same purpose as the linesman pliers. They look weird, but you only need one tool to do the job.

@@cfgdr3 I have their hybrid pliers with the grey handles that also have the stripping holes.

@@illestofdemall13 How do you like them? Are they worth the money? I'm on the fence still? But I really like the idea of having one tool to do the job.

@@cfgdr3 They are pretty cool but I rarely use them. I like the idea of multi tools but sometimes I go back to doing things the way I have been doing them for years.

That's why we calculate the load before we install for it. Ceiling fan with light, plus 8 receptacles on 20a GFCI\AFCI dual , for 1 bedroom is just fine. It even has room for a 150cfm fart fan for blunt tokers.

I agree with keeping lighting circuits separate from outlets when possible. I use a lable maker at my panels and like to label my lighting breakers in one color and outlets in another. In the case of my own home all labels are black ink, but outlets are white background and lighting circuits are yellow background.

@@cfgdr3 That's a good idea with label maker and good advice about isolation of the two when feasible.

I'm not an electrician, but I get your point. If it's not done initially, I don't see how it can be changed without a complete rewiring. I don't think separating lighting circuits from receptacle circuits is commonly done even in modern homes. From what I've seen at electrical panels, if marked, it's always by room or location and not by separating switches and receptacles. As long as the expected load is less than the circuit breaker and wire gauge you should be good.

All my rooms have a fan light on one circuit and led lights on a separate circuit. I drop my power feed for each rooms LED lights to a box in the basement labeled so I can isolate each room if I need to troubleshoot an arc fault. Since LEDs are 7 watts each I then run a single home run, 14/2 back to the panel. PS As Benjamin suggested on another video I also connect my Smoke Detectors to the LED light circuit. If I lose my Smoke Detector Power I will know because lights are off. I have separate circuits fir fan lights in every room so I’m not in the dark in case of problems.

For inexperienced people, you're right. But once someone knows how much pressure it takes to cut sheathing, they can go as deep as they want as long as they start with minimal pressure at the beginning of the cable, which is what Ben does

I've seen it all you can't judge if you want to teach then teach the correct way don't talk. Walk the walk. God bless you.👍🙏

@@aurvaroy6670 facts. I personally like to pinch the side whit pliers and pull off a pice and it works but some time I'm force to use the utility blade and is not like you going to put pressure on it as long as you make a line whit out pushing down you can strip it off

Wago type plugs is for lazy people!

@@dtm8073 well like my dad always said “work smarter not harder”. I suppose by this way of thinking nail guns and power saws of all kinds are also for “lazy” people. Good luck with your build!

@@tallpaul8880 You get a much more secure and reliable connection with wire nuts. I agree with your father about working smarter not harder. Nail guns and power saws are definitely ok, I never said they were for lazy people. Cheers!

@@dtm8073 agree with your points. The new and improved wagos have a lock lever design that has improved the connection over the push in type. They are widely used in commercial and residential construction and proven. ✌🏻

Wago 221 are great and just as reliable as a wire nut. Anyone who does electrical and doesn’t know that is ignorant. People get so stuck on the old way of doing things they can’t fathom that a newer way could be just as good if not better.

I would of made a drip loop

@My Name the pros too busy pulling wire and reading blueprints to make YT vids lol.

That appears to be plastic...

@@shadowopsairman1583 DUH! If you would listen to the video, he mentioned taping the switch if you are using metal boxes.

Taping is for people who do t know what the hell they are doing

@@paulbogden7391 its code if using metal boxes where I'm at

Only if you’re filling a box to capacity. Once the ground is correctly pushed to the back of the box there is little risk of anything shorting.

during the ruff in stage when you have two grounds in a box tie both onto crews don't cut until final installation of receptacle or switch, if you tuck the conductors deep in the box and then leave grounds at front creating a shield for the conductors in case the drywallers hit the box with cut out tool...

Dmitry, it should be noted that "electrical equipment" (switches, receptacles, and yes wire nuts) must be rated and approved for use. If you have aluminium wire, ensure your parts are rated for aluminium or both copper and aluminium.

Good point but he may have found like me, that it makes the hook a touch too big.

There are screwdrivers made with handles that will twist most wire nuts??

When I wire up the projects for my clients (sheds, garages, etc.) I always separate the lighting from the receptacles. Not a fan of daisy chained circuits.

That’s a waste. I wire to waste the least material and never overload a circuit. There are very few problems with arc breakers now. If you have problems with switches on arcs it’s because you screwed up your neutrals most likely. The only problems I see with arcs are plugged in devices having an issue. But, I know how to splice.

@@KitchenerLeslie2 if your suggesting separating lighting and receptacles are a waste of material, fine so be it, better looking at it then looking for it, most of the stuff I build is Custom homes and mixing lighting circuits is not an option, as a lot of it is controlled by smart controllers not light switches, and the arcing at switches is not a neutral problem at all, its the switch itself, but whatever if your building a shed it dosn't really matter but when your building a home it makes all the difference in the world to lay out circuits separating lighting loads from general receptacles and its just a good wiring practice, I really don't understand your resistance to it other than the notion of saving material, and as I said earlier better be safe than sorry having to rip drywall to run a new wire, and that not fun, I hope we can agree at least on that, have a good day,

@@stankahuna5271 we do custom homes, but with regular switches, dimmers and controls that work with arc breakers. So I don’t see the point in wasting wire to keep outlets and lighting separate. If you don’t put your lighting on arcs because they trip, maybe you need to buy better devices or learn to rough and splice better.

@@KitchenerLeslie2 thats twice now you have doubled down on a stupid ideal and twice now that you have questioned my workmanship, clearly your an idiot, you can take your ancient wiring methods and go build an outhouse

Those strippers have a hole just for looping the hooks.

Those a easy but why do you need one? I thought he’s an electrician not a HVAC Technician. Unless he wears many hats?

BS!! That's not necessary. Do you wrap them while they're hot?? If so, do you unwrap them while they're hot??

Seek and replace any stab-back receptacles and switches. If I find them at a residential site, I will tell the home owner that the complete house needs fire safety updated. They are highly dangerous after some age. They may cause wall fires, heat, arcing, or intermittence and melt down. Fire safety updating is full replacement of all receptacles with new Legrand tamper resistant receptacles, new PS Legrand switches or better, all ceiling light boxes re-wired, cleaned up, new nuts plus fire tape on the nuts. Main panel: Bonding screw = Installed. Isolate neutrals 1 per screw. Make sure hots are 1 per screw on breakers. Grounds are 2-3 per screw. Subpanel: bonding screw = Removed. Ground and Neutral busbars must be separate in Subpanel. Only 1 hot per screw on breaker and 1 common per neutral busbar screw. Any new circuits added are AFCI\GFCI dual. A panel that is showing signs of being loose and janky, will be replaced with a 200 amp panel for the same cost of 100amp.. Not much different at all. I just did a panel replacement for a 100amp service where the house power shut off randomly but the 100amp breaker stayed on and buzzed for 5 minutes until it would turn back on by itself. They let it do that for about 8 years. Wow.. I won't get into the cost of adding emergency disconnect service on the exterior or home surge protection when doing a panel replacement but it varies from arm to leg.

Excellent! Thank you for sharing your experience!

You're in the Chicagoland area, I bet! I love that they use EMT and steel boxes. Very professional and extremely safe, not to mention highly configurable and expandable to fish new lines in the future.

@@aaron74 and keeps the number of hacks down

@@monteglover4133 Yes and it keeps electrician employment high, too. I wish it were the practice all around the country.

@@aaron74 The only time I ever get shocked is when I arrive to someone's old house with flicker problems and has live conduit ready to cook an egg that I have to trace.

Obviously you dont know what you're talking about

I know in Minnesota it's code to have a metal cover, well the code thing is what the state inspector said.....

Plates now are made of a pliable plastic that won't crack or break, especially if you tighten the little screw too much. It sucks to install a ,4 gang switch plate and then you overtightened the last screw and the plate breaks.

i do all my cover screws that way

@@buc900b3 Me, too.

So it’s you doing it to me :-)

North of the Mason Dixon line, it’s probably a law that they go horizontal.

Too funny! 🤣

Use a 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacle regardless of whether wire gauge is 12 or 14. This is the same as the 20 amp without the horizontal slot. Same for gfci. There is no reason to use a 20 amp duplex receptacle in a residence.