As a carpenter myself, I would take the bits I had home and sharpen them. I always have bits and usually never ask for some. That’s if I didn’t lose them

@@mannyp4749 I never said no to free anything .

Also not using the hammer drill setting...

Demonstration purposes only😊

But what if the smaller bit needs sharpened too 😂

Real men don't use pilot holes. They don't even use drills. They just punch the holes with their fingertips 🤣

@@hog7203 😂😂😂💖

2x60=120…close enough as he does by hand

@@markthomasson5077 the center drill to make a start is 120°,while regular drill bits for steel is 118.the cone of a punch is 120degrees too .the point is that the drill bit,of 118° can stand in the punched hole with a slight bit of space to take a proper first chip while going down.the center drill is doing the same hole,but wider (which help if you want to make holes bigger than 8mm,since you'll start by making the punch hole with the center drill,then go from 8,and go bigger and bigger until reaching the desired diameter.it's higly recommended to not make a difference in drill bigger than 8mm at a time with standard drills in common steel (as if you try,the drills will take much more heat if you drill from a higher difference,meaning you'd have to cool it down much more,and go much slower to avoid burning your drill end.) doing it by hand,you can totally get a proper 118° with a bit of training,or an actual piece of metal attached to your stand and set to the proper angle.also,sharpening drills straight like this is fine,but far from best.if you want to have a proper chip(meaning ideal conditions) you'd have to turn the drill a bit while sharening.you start from the edge and turn quite fast to make the proper curve,that will help a lot to avoid your chip from clogging up in the helix ,which will help a lot if you're making deep holes.with a bit of dexterity,you can also manage to make a chip breaker at the end of the curve by giving a slight more force on the millstone.you can totally do each part separately,but you'll get the best result by doing all three in one go after a bit of practice.

@@corentinjourdan5739 . Thanks, very interesting points there. I always start with a centre punch then small bits in any case.

You better check that math, a 60 degree drill would look more like an end mill. 118 degrees was chosen 100 years ago because it's easier and cheaper to make with chisel points. Now 135 degree split point drills are starting to be popular with modern manufacturing and power tools. But either way 120 degrees works just fine if you know what you're doing.

Yeah I tried 20 times but can't do it 🥲

Sharpening things is an art Imo. Had a friend that could sharpen drill bits with a belt sander if that was all that was available. He worked in the tool room at our assembly plant. Could get a pocket knife razor sharp in less than a minute.

Having someone show you is the best way. But sometimes a description of the move can help. As you push the drill into the grinding wheel, increase pressure to remove material for clearance on the back of the cutting edge. *** dress the grinding wheel true before you even begin to sharpen a drill.

@@MrJdebest Yeah dressing is key , I used silicone carbide and a diamond dressing tool

Same here . At first it was hit or miss but because I generally didn’t work with hard metals I got by .

Very true.

Thanks for saying this.

Let alone the fact that he never checked land length to make sure the apex of the drill was centered. This is why your holes all end up oversized and a corner of your drill burns up before the other since it’s doing all the work.

Why don't you make a tutorial

Great info, thanks!

🙏

wtaf, speed of drill is all that is important for different metals.

@@throwachair Sorry sunshine, you need a different angle for aly as you want that to chip differently to steel. Speeds for each material may be correct but with the wrong angle you will just get screaming from brass and the bit heats up quick. Speed alone does not cut, in fact I was always taught to drill slower if anything to stop catching. Im a retired machine engineer......

@@Jewellerybybarrie As a commercial carpenter installing doors and hardware I never had to get that technical . The metal I drilled and tapped was approximately 3/16 of an inch or thinner. I still have a drill doctor. I couldn’t justify buying a really good sharpener. I couldn’t justify a used Darex ? one .

Something tells me this process only works with large bits unless you're a pro

That definitely is for large drills. I never call them bits. I had to do that only in job shops, They rarely have the proper grinders. I also worked for northorp grumman where they had a tool service dept. With lippers, surface grinders, the whole works. Sharpen endmills, stepdrills, the whole deal. Come out almost like brand new.

Pensé parecido: "ahora a afilar de nuevo"

Yes, it's called a bench grinder.

If a bench grinder is "too professional" for you, you probably should not be operating a drill to begin with.

Yeah I just buy new bits

You don’t need a bench grinder for this. Use a regular angle grinder with a rock disc (I’m spacing on what to call it). Just grind a friken angle on it, dip it on some water mixed with a little oil to quench it between grinds. Boom, 30 seconds, works like a charm.

老眼鏡が一番です笑　 仕事柄1㎜以下のドリルを良く研ぎますが実体顕微鏡の下にグラインダー置いて覗いて研いでます 素人でも簡単に研ぐ方法なら、ぐりんと動かすのは難しいから、2番が当たらない角度で単純に砥石に押し当てて研ぐと簡単です

諦めたら、そこで(ry

I was looking for this precise comment! 😅

これは恐らく、あれだ。 職人界隈特有の『技は見て盗め』ってヤツだ。