You and Integza should build a jet engine together.

You need to integrate your air intake into your stages. Right now you're losing all the energy of the expanding air to the intake. Your inlet air should lead directly to a small fan with increasingly larger stages behind. That way you harness airflow AND air expansion. You're effectively building a de-compressor engine.

I think your Rotr blades were backwards. Usually, you would put the thick nose to the front. Also, for turbines, the first row is usually a ststor or a nozzle section, not a rotor

Just a small tip, hydroelectric turbines on a small scale use gravity as an assist. When you had it connected to your garden hose if you had held it vertically it probably would have worked considerably better.

Have in mind that all turbines are designed to be most efficient at certain RPM so a reduction gear for that stepper motor should be neccesary.

You should be able to boost the power quite a lot by preswirling your air in the intake manifold before it hits the first rotor, and by putting the air transfer nozzles way closer to the first rotor and not have a big gap in between them. kinda like having the intake holes gradually turn into a stator that nests up against the first rotor as close as the other stators do. Im not saying double the power, but quite some at least.

I've never been able to fully wrap my head around the exact physics of a stator, only a general understanding. Your explanation has arguably closed that gap for me. Thank you.

Good video. I think due to the size of the turbine you need a bigger volume of air rather than pressure. Get a shop vacuum cleaner and hook hose to the exhaust. Blow that into all the inlets. Try draw a vacuum through it as well.

one of the best channels out there with high quality and perfect quantity love your content brother keep going would love to see you in the millions

Very inspiring and now I know what a stator is. Thank you so much for this video, good job.

I'm no engineer, but I was a powerplant operator for a time, and I found this very impressive even if most of the comments are highlighting areas for improvement, you've got more knowledge of turbines than most. Super cool project

Great Project ....and gets the community talking together to improve on the design and build...keep it going!!

I'm waiting for metal 3D printing to become dirt cheap like 3D printers of today. Metals can be recycled indefinitely unlike paper and plastics, and opens up a whole new avenue of possibilities. Give it another 5-10 years.

Absolutely F'n incredible. Hollywood would do well to hire you for an enormous sum. Your stuff looks more real than reality. Much more.

If you use q support blocker in cura you can change the properties inside said support blocker while also having different model settings for your part. Also try flipping the turbine so that it’s standing up when you put water through it.

Don't want to spoil it for you, I worked at factory producing turbine blades just for ten years or so, but you have rotors backwards. Leading edge is thicker, then is thickiest part of the blade, at 1/4 to 1/3 of length of the profile and then it slowly vanishes into trailing edge, that is relatively sharp (compare to leading edge). Also, profiles for gas or liquid look quite different, not like it can't work at all, but efficiency-wise you can't just switch between those two mediums. liquids (water) tend to be non-compressable after all...

Have you ever tried balancing your rotary devices? (Fans and turbines. I don’t think gears will get much from balancing) It certainly won’t fix most of your problems, but I think you’ll get quieter faster machines which will probably last longer. Clough42 recently did some videos about tools to do static balancing. Also, the edges at corners of your housing that you needed to sand: if you put a small chamfer it should print better. Also look into your pressure advance settings.

Very cool...in water you should point the turbine down at the ground and let gravity assist the flow on all blades. That's how the turbines are positioned in hydro electric dams. That said your turbine is not designed for water. You would want more of a side entry stream. Keep going and see if you can design a jet turbine engine and have PCBWay print all the parts in metal. Would be a great series of vids.

air must flow over the rotor blades from the thick edge to the thin trailing edge, you appear to have it backwards. Your set up will work well as a compressor, with the intake on the right 1:25

Like fg said the first row would be nozzles. Instead of blowing it from the front you should attach the nozzle on the outside of the housing directly into the first set of turbine blades. It will give you significantly more torque at low rpms. And you will want to seal you stator to prevent air passing by any cracks. This is how a hp steam turbine works. Amazing work btw would seriously be interested in making one too!!

Think you would need to make an end with a small opening for your water version. It should help keep pressure on the blades then, or use a jet washer to assist :)

that's why I love 3d printing community they make anything literally anything.

your 3d printing vids are awesome im looking forward to seeing your newest vids

If you want to get really creative look into radial outflow turbines. Didnt go anywhere as the turbine wheel got too large for big installstions but small versions are great and easy to print. You also get a natural expansion in cross sectional area as you go outwards

I was a bit worried that we dont see anything leaking this time but at the end you gave us leaky turbine. Thank you :D

Woah, didn't even realize the video was uploaded right now, good video. I just hope you make a part 3 of the pressure washer idea.

Great work and use of the 3D printer. It is expected to work only with gas flow, for a water stream you will need a pelton turbine. Great video, thanks.

Very cool! Though as others have mentioned, the blades are backwards. Either way, good work!

To get the turbine to work with water, you will have to get uniform pressure throughout the entire turbine or much higher flow. With a completely open exhaust end, pressure is not building up enough to overcome the waters weight.

1:00 Looking at that image, is it possible that you have put the profiles backwards? What is the leading edge looks more like a trailing edge to me.

nice build! mind if I ask what camera you use for recording?

🔥🔧🛩 That would be an epic collaboration! Imagine the possibilities of combining your skills and expertise to build a jet engine. The innovation and engineering involved would be mind-blowing. I'm curious to see how you could harness the power of a 3D-printed turbine to produce electricity. Count me in as a fan eagerly awaiting your next project! 🤩⚡👏

The stator blades look like the rotor blades of the first stages of a steam turbine :)

Best estonian channel so far 👏 👍

love to see fellow estonian youtubers make it big on youtube

So cool, can’t wait to make this. Great job and great video!

How did you make that transparent part?? It looks super nice❤

Well. Good content. What about spacer adjustment between rotor and stator ? Is there no friction between them ?

That's a cool video, I wanted ti see this concept for a while ! However I have a question, why are the foils backward on the rotor and the foils on the stator so thick ?

A tip for inserting the shaft, I have seen it done with good results where you put the shaft in a drill and spin it whilst you insert it into the part.

I think your rotor blades are backwards. The nose of the airfoil should face the flow. You could make your manifold preswirl the air if you want to increase efficiency even more. Awesome work!

Awesome vid! How did you design the support ribbing on the outside of the turbine case?

Amazing project mate 😊👍

putting the turbine outlet facing down will increase the efficiency when running on water

For a turbine running on compressed air, really you want a tapered body so the air is gradually allowd to expand from one stage to the next.

It'd be interesting to see efficiency of it Like how much energy does it output versus the amount of energy needed to compress that air I'd love to see your take on a turbine that is designed for water like a peltier

You use sound to get RPM. Look at the frequency spectrum of the audio, look at the highest peaks. They are showing the RMP, or are multiples of the actual RPM. If you already know roughly what ballpark the RPMs should be, find the highest peak in that area and 1/X Hz to get RPS.

your videos motivate me to get creative again, thank you very much!

Great build .

Shoukd have tried the tirbine vertical with the water flow. Gravety is pulling the water to the bottom messing up the flow of water through the turbine, for it to be horizontal you would need far more flow to get it to spin.

Very cool, instead hammering the metal axis put it on the freezer before try to put in the holes

You need to keep the pressure at the input level. To do this, reduce the area of the output section to the input value. And everything will work!

I would love to see more tests with turbines😊

Looks fantastic amazing project, would be really intresting to experiment with the design of both the front and back lids to increase efficiency. You could almost make the whole thing as modular stages that you can keep adding to the whole assembly. Any possiblity of sharing STEP files so we can have a play with the design.

I would like to know what 3D printer are you using. Thank You

You need a very small nozzle at all of those intakes because compressed air isnt very fast, if you pass it through nozzle the pressure will transfors to speed which your turbine needs, try this experiment with some pc fans and different nozzles like when you blow from lungs directlly to fan, nothing will happens at all, but when tou use straw in front of fan blades your lung pressure will turn air into speed and it will work so much better. Hope this will help you

You should be able to get the water turbine to spin if you constrict the water outlet so that the fluid fills up the turbine's interior. That should create the needed friction from water to turbine blade.

Very cool! The water test was a nice touch. Now...can you print it in ASA and run it on steam? That could make it a potentially practical device to charge a phone in a power outage.

You should use brushless dc motors

1:27 In this diagram the air should be flowing from right to left, and the rotors and stators are switched up as well, the triangular blades should be the rotor

Great work!~ The quality of the design is nice. Can't wait for version 2!👍

I wonder if the turbine would have spun with water if you had held it up vertically so the water could flow more evenly instead of being collected to one side.

Fun project if you ignore the fact that air compressors are only 5% efficient and I doubt your even gonna get back even 10% of that 5% with this turbine. Meaning every kilowatt your compressor uses generates like 5w if your lucky 😂 Also point on the splitter is that it offers way to much expansion room. 6 small jets would be better. Restrictions speed up flow drastically. -A compressed air engineer.

Doesn't the turbine depend on the mass passing through the vanes? If so you were creating a venture effect with the air gain and drawing additional air mass through the inlet which would be the reason for the higher RPM. I not a physicist but just a thought.

Subscribed because of this video. Awesome content man

Your turbine rotor blades are back to front, which is one of the reasons why it won't work when forcing water through it. It creates flow vortices behind the rotor blades, loosing efficiency. If you're going to make a 2nd version, I'd recommend you pay more attention to the volume changes through the stators. You have air entering at a reasonable volume, then it being constricted in the middle of the stator as it changes direction, then expanding out of it before it hits the next set of rotor blades. This is absolutely terrible for efficiency, which water then reveals. Water does not like any sudden volume changes as it's 2000x denser than air, so it exaggerates any pressure buildup problems. Tune it to run on water flow, it'll be amazing on air. Stator version 2 would ideally have the blade thickness changing from the centre towards the edge, to account for volume differences in this axis. They'd also need to be pitched to match the entry and exit angles of the rotor blades, so the flow doesn't suddenly twist when it hits/leaves them.

I'd be interested to see what the turbine immersed in water with a water flow would do. I have a feeling that if the turbine was full then the flow of water _would_ spin the blades, so if not submerged then perhaps add a constrictor on the output so the turbine fills up and allow pressure to build within the turbine so it'll spin.

Free Energy Machine... like a Jet Engine to produce Electricity, if you close the loop for the Engine, it shell Spend... try it. Like a refrigerator producing cold stuff.

That clear housing is very nice. What material did you use at PCBway to get it?

Maybe the pressure of the water is able to be increased so you could use the turbine. Would be cool to see something like that.

maashAllah, what can you do with ions?

How many Watts of continuous power can it produce with let’s say 3bar steam?

Use Carbon Fiber/Composites and higher Air Compressed Air Pressure... and see how much power you can get... should be interesting..

When you connected the air fitting directly to the yellow piece on the intake eliminated the Venturi effect giving you less air flow

5:07 I calculated the RPM on this test and the RPM reached approximately 5,925 RPM

Hey, this is awesome, super well done!! But one question, isn't the airflow reversed? It seems like the air flow is going from trailing edge to leading edge on the blades instead of leading to trailing. Or is this intensional in these kinds of turbines?

Rotor blades profile is backwards. The air should hit blunt edge first, then leave the thin edge last. So you seem to have copied a compressor instead of copying a turbine. Using an air gun create a very fast airflow at the tip of the nozzle. But you tried to build something that need lots of air. If intake hole is 20mm wide you may need to hold the nozzle 50 to 100mm from the intake hole to get the most air into your "turbine". The profile of the vanes seems unnecessary thick in the middle. Here too the air should hit a slightly blunt edge first, then leave a thin edge.

I think that with the kind of air pressure and flow you have you would be better with a turbocharger turbine type rather than axial type. Also I think that your rotor blade are reversed. The leading edge should be pointing toward the inlet. Have a look at turbine cutout pictures on the web. Nice work !

Man I love elect *ir* city

No hay una lista con todos los materiales para el ensamble?

You need a better input ! I think it will perform much better with a lower pressure and higher volume....that compressor gun head is giving high pressure but greatly limits your VOLUME if you can multiply your volume by TEN and reduce the pressure the same ratio You can get a second data point - then double that and reduce pressure again and you will have three data points - from here you can map out the entire range of volume, pressure and RPM. showing where the best combo is.

Nice video but there is a few things wrong with your design. What you have made is a pressure compound turbine (rateau). Your stator should be convergent nozzles and the rotator are impulse blades. Aka opposite to what you have plus your nozzles (BLUE) are the wrong way around. If you compound the design into 3 stages you need to design the cross sectional area to increase to keep the velocity at mach 1 at each exit nozzle.

You needed a water flow output plate similar to the water intake plate to limit the total amount of water flowing out of the turbine all the water flow pressure is lost and the turbine can't spin due to it you can place the turbine vertically and let the water flow top to bottom or bottom to top for testing if you have a wood piece or waterproof cardboard piece(cardboard with a side covered in a plastic layer) place it in front of the turbine water flow output side of the turbine and minor cuts for water to flow out of and figure out the size of cuts required to get the maximum turbine rotation speed and water flow.

New sub. This is really cool man

I like it. Which result did you get ? Thanks

I really want a follow up. Maybe tell us the torque and efficiency, try to make an actually useful generator, super cool stuff

Finally someone used multiple stages of compression

I need to cuddle this super fluffy Cat

Look into linear advance and flow calibrating to remove that excess material

We need more plastics in the world

When test with water, have you try facing upward?

I am simple your design is a very good thing

How did you calculate the shape of your blades? They almost look like they're backwards.

Literally the type of vid to watch on 3:47 am ( i messed up my sleep schedule)

The next wheel has to have a larger diameter to be effcient in the slower flow that has like 55% kinetic energy extracted from it. Each succsessive wheels of same diameter has a much lower overall performance. On 3 wheels the last wheel would act as a brake. You need to adjust according to Betz law to keep the power coversion efficiency per wheel up. On the same diameter you could better do 2 wheels in opposite direction without a stator.

i would actually reverse the usage and use it as an RSFE (Rapid Shit Fume Extractor) ... i don't need it to compress the air, just Rapidly move it

garden hose didn't work because you need to concentrate the flow not expand it ... or something like that only 60psi water not enough for low speed need high speed for turbine with some jet ports though firing at first set of fins with 1/16th" jet port would reduce flow but increase psi so flow speed just be significantly less flow... alot of stuff to think about getting useful work from machines

How did you make that clear cover for the generator? Thats so clear, did you 3d print that? Or what?

Love the vid. Just gonna say on my ranting soapbox over here, not targeting this video specifically, just getting something off my chest that I've been bothered by: I hate "RPM" as a measurement of rotational speed when rotations per minute are in the thousands. We should have RPS, or "rotations-per-second", for high-RPM measurements. So, 6000 RPM would be 100 RPS, which is much more manageable in your head when conceptualizing things involving rotational speed. When you have more than one rotation per second, it's time to start thinking about rotations in terms of one-second, because it's much easier to conceptualize 10 rotations per second (i.e. 100ms per rotation) than it is to conceptualize 600 rotations per minute. A minute is a long time when you're spinning at tens or hundreds of rotations per second!!! Anyway, end rant. #RotationsPerSecondClub if you feel me. Also! Don't make parts out of 3D printing materials that absorb water if you plan to use those parts in an application where they're interacting with water. A lot of 3D printing plastics absorb moisture and will deform or change in dimensions when exposed to moisture, such as PLA and nylon. I'm sure there are other FDM printing filament materials that aren't so hygroscopic (I have a background in CNC machining, not 3D printing) that would be better suited to water-interaction applications, but PLA definitely isn't what you want to use! The filament alone absorbs water over the time and can cause prints to come out with a very poor finish just because of all the moisture bubbling out of the filament while it's printing, to the point of being totally unusable without first being completely dehydrated first. PLA is fine for prototyping a water turbine or other water-interfacing mechanism, but you'll ultimately need to fabricate your device using a material that's completely impervious to water for any long-term applications. Good luck and thanks for the video! :D

Very nice 👌