Make large molds and cast concrete furnitures!

As someone who has a company for 3D printing, we actually are planning to get a large-size printer but the main use of such machines is not making or competing with regular furniture. We make custom-made products for our clients and when we make a design, it is unique and personal for a specific customer which makes it worth much more than a regular product that can be found on the shelf. And, using wood filament to make an actual chair is not ideal since most additives to filament will weaken it. A common good material for these applications is ABS-GF or PP-GF. These materials are fantastic, strong and rigid and will be suitable for furniture making. We have our eyes on Mingda industrial printers (the 1m ones) which are enclosed and are suitable for engineering materials. The Elegoo orange is fine for basic materials it seems but lacks the potential for better materials ESPECIALLY at this scale things go wrong quickly and you need a stable environment to print your parts in. The Elegoo orange is waaaaaay cheaper though :) Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

Actually, increasing number of walls might help more than addng the infill :)

2:55 pro tip, you can unpack the box and carry the pieces in one or a few at a time, you don't have to keep it in the box.

Bless you. I was a wood furniture designer/builder for 45 years. After being forced into early retirement I decided to try tackling printed furniture. There is about as much to learn about printing as there is to learn about wood furniture building, and not much crossover between the two. The first thing you must do is 'think out of the box' when it comes to designs, avoiding overhangs/ supports, 'joinery', and try to come up with one-piece solutions to furniture applications. It's not easy to switch over from woodwork thinking but you'll get the hang of it. I realized early on that I couldn't really make anything from gluing together parts, so I purchased a Modix big60 for about what you paid for the elegoo. It's been a very reliable and flexible machine. I print mostly with a 1.0mm nozzle, sometimes a 1.5mm and sometimes a .8mm. I avoid infill when I can and rely instead on hollow parts with multiple perimeters and internal bracing/webs, it saves time and money and is pretty strong. I only use PLA for prototyping ideas and PETG when it's time to get serious. (The thing about PLA is that it sags and weakens over time, some of the large prints I did 5 years ago are starting to fall apart.) PETG is a little too flexible sometimes though. I've experimented with CF/Nylon, ABS, PC, etc., and they are not cost-effective, plus they all require heated enclosures. Drying your filament is essential, always take your spools down to 12-15% before you use them, and keep them in the dryrs when printing. I have several of the sunlu dryers, they work pretty well. Calibration is crucial. Whatever printer you're using, flow rate, e-steps, clearances, temperature towers, experimenting with nozzles, temps and speeds is essential before you can get consistent results, and on a big machine, these factors are even more important to get properly sorted. I abhor postwork. After 4 decades of woodworking I don't ever want to see another piece of sandpaper or finishing product. And this is one place where printing can be a boon, a properly designed project can come off the bed ready for use, which is just the way I like it. The time factor is a drag, yes, but I just turned out a pair of very nice loudspeaker enclosures with double walls that I filled with fine sand, and not only are they stylish but the sound in amazing, and REW software measurements show that they are as accurate as any production examples under $6000 a pair. Yes, They took 400 hours to print, but a pair in plywood or MDF made to the same standard of function would take a comparable amount of days because I can print 24/7 but only work 12/7. I prefer matte filaments to gloss, they hide the layer lines/imperfections better. And even though printers x, y or z can supposedly print at 300mm/second, the basic rule remains, slower means better quality. As other posters here have commented, making casting molds is another excellent technique and has the advantage of multiple copies being produced from a single print run ( sometimes! ) I considered casting my speaker enclosures from hydrostone, but in the end I just printed them because it was faster. ( I am not always a very patient man ) I also weigh in at 300 pounds, so designs that will keep my butt off the floor will pretty much work for anyone. So keep working on it, if you want to discuss anything just contact me through my channel.

Part of the benefits here would be printing geometry that would otherwise be too complex or time consuming to create in any other way. For example rather than using to print a chair that could be created using wood and "traditional" joinery, creating a chair that is designed from the ground up to get the full benefit from 3d printing - the design of the chair could be truly unexpected and interesting as it's not informed by tradition or the limitations of traditional woodworking. Great video 😊

Love your humor, especially the look of true anguish as you sat on the chair for the first time. And how you did the wrap up of a video on 3D printing stools and chairs by sitting on the floor. And yeah - I am also glad to see that woodworkers still have a place in the world. :-)

INLAYS IN CABINETS/DRAWERS WOUD BE SICK like 80x60cm drawer inserts in one piece would be so clean

What I would print with something that big, Custom car parts, Speaker boxes. Guitar pieces (Neck and Body), Custom bicycle rims, Tabletop arcade cabinet, Giant bender the robot, and giant human skull. Just a few ideas off the top of my head.

Seeing the model of that chair rail in the slicer on the Elegoo bed and then the Bamboo bed was amazing! That Elegoo is MASSIVE!

One space tip, open the box outside, and carry the pieces in? Then you only need the assembly space inside. You know, when it's NOT snowing. // The value add is when the price point is high, not low. Say, 3d printing yourself a coffin. Those things are stupid expensive. Or, body kits for cars, where customization is worth the money, and they are essentially non-structural. Great video!

hollow legs for threaded rod. a cushion on top and rubber feet. perfection and durability

Actually, PLA is one of the “strongest” materials you can print, for holding/crushing, and layer adhesion. Petg, and Abs are better “impact resistant”.

Let us know when the stool breaks. I would try printing it in parts. The chair seat plate as one print with hexagonal leg slots. Legs separate with hexagonal shape, printed flat on the bed so the layers are vertical, rather than horizontal. Possibly even each leg in two pieces that hexagonally plug in together. Also it means a lower risk of print failure destroying the entire print. You could then glue the legs or just make them them a snug connector fit. Use arch construction for a full back rest chair. With 3D printing you need to change the design to match the material capabilities.

Id be interested in printing the stool hollow then filling it with something. Resin or even a thin concrete might be interesting. I realise it would require design of the internal structure but would be a very interesting build method. Also in only creating an outside layer it should use less pla.

You could print jigs and templates to use with your router for wood projects.

Use orcaslicer and do all of the calibrations to fix the under extrusion. If your volumetric flow speeds too high for that filament, it will cause this. Also, wood filaments are hard to print with great results in general and I don't think they are as durable.

I like your video, thanks for doing this. You could use the print parameters used by VORON for your designs. Those are really stiff and it should be the right amount of walls, infill etc.

Id use that to print all my woodworking templates

I was going to buy this printer but the wait time is what got me. I have a few ideas to improve it using some designs and upgrades ive done with other printers.

As a Doctor Who fan, I would use this to print a full sized Dalek. Even at the size of the printer, the Dalek would have to be broken down into sections to be assembled after the print is finished.

Was a fun inspiring video no matter what the result was. Tack. :)

Exactly what I need for my Twizy F1-project, it would be perfect to print the nose cone/frontspoiler and the diffusor in the back! 😅😃

You can print a crazy jig, full size and ready to use, for making an elaborate wood joint.

I don’t have room for such a big printer but nice to see that such a device is now affordable and available. For stronger parts use more walls not infill. Instead of useing more infill you can make tiny (0.1mm) cutouts inside the model. This way the slicer is forced to add walls there. Interesting what’s possible to print with such a big printer.

With this size, you can print pretty good speaker enclosures that are worth more than 3d printer itself. You can also print whole rc plane parts and much more.

I've been fiddling with this concept for a while, I truly believe it will become an industry at some point, there's a lot of logistic benefits, but I don't think it can ever outcompete the classic woodworking. Its too versatile and cost efficient. The models look neat off the print already! To tackle the integrity of the print, try reinforce the design by integrating wood in the structural elements; by modeling hollowed out sections of the 3d prints and inserting beams or rods of wood with a friction fit + add epoxy if you're not planning on reusing the 3d printed parts, most of the wood can be repurposed with a bit of sanding. Tip: You greatly reduce the requirement of woodworking if you buy off-the shelf beams/rods and further model the furniture around them.

After your review sounds with current tech on market. This can be great for prototyping and mold making

Its worth spending the filament just making cool projects to show the world honestly. You could end up making cool puzzle pieces for artwork then showing a fully crafted item- like aircraft, ships, tanks, 3d printed tree or flowers within a pot. Literally anything man! If I had the ability to do this stuff, I'd make anything anyone asked for in the comments because its something new to try. Even if it ends up not going well, its still content to show us the limits and capabilities of the machine!

Yeah, design definitely improvable. - not loading parallel to layers - cross-bracing for 10x stiffness - wild organic look that woul be very difficult with wood

Here's an idea which I hesitate to say instead of doing myself! Try creating a sort of shell print of a chair, and then fill it with resin

As a furniture designer, I can see all sorts of possibilities in really leaning into the things you can 3D print and not make conventionally, like imagine if Zaha Hadid reimagined the Pantone chair but it had grown organically…. It would also be a way of making moulds to cast other materials.

I think the whole 3D printing future is wonderful and will be very useful for many reasons BUT I very much doubt it with replace a good woodworker.

Fantastic video and 100% agree there are a good number of issues Elegoo needs to sort out

You can be calm. Not many people want to be producers, having big pretty expensive equipment in the house that can be really frustrating. And the result is more like plastic. Best for producers is a print size of 500x500x500mm to combine to bigger things.

You could pause prints and add other materials inside the print if you model the pieces with this in mind. I obviously never print this big, but I like to add weights etc in my prints and do that through pause commands to make them fully encased in the print

after watching more, i can say this would be good for those life size models for events or conventions

Wow the amount of issues straight out of the box.. thats wild. Lmao they even clogged the nozzle for you before shipping, how nice of them!

I should get back to working on my large format printer, print volume is 600x1000x600 but almost ¼ of the size of that one, my main design goal was that it would fit through a doorway without taking it apart.

This printer would be great for printing Mock-ups, as they are not intended for real use anyway - if you just want to get the feeling of how it looks in full size or scaled down depending on what you are making an Mock-up from this printer would be great, also I am sure it's good for things that shouldn't be sat on or have that kind of weight on it.

The novelty of the size is undeniable, but as you say the price of filament easily adds up for bigger projects.

Amazing and scary at the same time. Good to know it's not going to compete with wood due to price right now.

Your chair designs are not utilizing the printer full potential, you can add more cross brassings and other design elements. Or print something in vase mode and fill it up with cement. Or use it as a form for fiberglass+resin

For making furniture a laser cutter or large CNC machine makes a lot more sense. Maybe if you could 3D print on a steel frame ... or insert the steel frame into the print afterwards...

If you could use a very low infill that had gaps creating channels that something like resin could be poured into that could be interesting. Obviously resin an PLA don't mix well, but the idea is what matters. Using a 3d print to act as an exoskeleton/mold could be pretty cool.

I'm super excited to get mine in June. I've got a Mosquito Prime hit end with a 2.4mm nozzle waiting. Big thick layers is where it's at.

I can easily see this machine being used to prototype costumes or set-pieces for movies and the likes. Cosplayers might also want to get their hands on something like this, at least the one doing it as their profession. I can also see this being used to decorate showcase rooms or stagefloors. There are A LOT of possibilites with a large printer for commercial use.

Hey man! I love your videos!!! Just heads up, you keep mentioning infill when you talk about strength, but actually, number of perimeters is going to influence strength more than infill. Just FYI!

Don't worry Pierre, if you ever need help moving a giant 3d printer, just give me a call! Seriously jealous. This thing looks very cool. I could see some fun use cases for this and woodworking. You could make giant router templates very easily. Or large-scale jigs. Etc.

Try printing a chair upside down in vase mode (square seat that transitions into circle base) then attach a back rest

With the design on the stool and other large objects there are some options. You could add cross bracing between the legs quite easily as long as it's not angled past a certain amount, like 45 degrees ideally. Anything you print upright you can always chamfer more gradually into the large surface as well so support aren't necessary. For getting a wood pattern too, you can actually generate a wood grain effect and add it while modeling. In general, adding more walls will make the prints much stronger, especially in thin areas. Just some thoughts for you and anyone reading. Very cool!

Finally, I can 3d-print a 3d printer.

I've had this ideal of a similar machine but instead of printing things into reality, print them into a model format file. That way you can 3d print existing objects into a "computer", and sell them as packs on "asset marketplaces". My dream was to be able to dangle a ball in the center of a room, and scan the entire room into a 3d Model, that would save time for those who are not skilled in using 3d modeling software.

Great video Pierre, I was very skeptical about 3d printed furniture. now I'm even more skeptical LOL

Great demo! I don't think you have to worry about losing your job! Very few people would want to print their own furniture while the majority of people prefer furniture made of traditional materials like wood ( as long as there is a will to plant more trees, and recycle as much wood as possible). I also hope to see better designed and affordable filament recycling products in the future. Your chair looks good, and as you said it could have used a better framing configuration. Finally, what slicer did you use? Did Elegoo include the profile for the Giga in their slicer? I would be curious to test some parts, and see what kind of printing time I would be expecting for one of my future projects.

I'm printing a enclosure for my printer, tons of pieces that bolt together. With this i could print it all at once

I think it is perfect for printing large picture frames.

You don’t need a different type of Mayer to make it stronger, you need different designs. In 3d printing you have a lot of strength inside the layers and very little between the layers. That stool will snap very easily!!

I have absolutely ZERO room in this house, I practically have to scootch in sideweays as it is, but I SO want to order one... Imagine being able to print life size statues of my nephews and nieces...

Prosthetics: Custom-fitted prosthetics for people or animals. Art Installations: Large, intricate artworks designed specifically for a certain space. Vintage Car Parts: Specific parts that are no longer manufactured or are hard to find. Architectural Models: Detailed models of buildings for architects or students. Custom Enclosures: For electronic devices that are not available in standard sizes. Cosplay Costume Parts: Detailed costume components necessary for accurate replication. Educational Aids: Anatomical models or scientific equipment for educational purposes. Musical Instruments: Rare or custom-made instruments that are otherwise unavailable. Boat Models: For boat builders or hobbyists who need scale models. Playground Equipment: Unique and safe play structures for children.

I'm pretty sure your "mountain" of Festool boxes is growing...... ;) Awesome review of this printer. I've watched a few reviews of this printer but none until now actually made me think about what a printer of this size actually means. Thanks.

3D print museum artifacts for hands on education. Recreate a complete vintage locomotive style tv or rare radios for display or theatre props. So many cool stuff to create, if I could I would test this out and probably make stuff all day long.

Pro tip, print infill barely adds strength to the part, the outer walls (including top and bottom) adds the most strength to the part. If you do want to use infill as strength, in the slicer, set the nozzle diameter to 0.8mm or larger, and then it will actually add strength to the part (I personally use a 0.6mm nozzle and set the infill nozzle diameter to 1.00mm)

My first thought was custom pieces for cars. Using better materials though. Those things are usually already expensive, so custom made would probably be 1:10 versus price for material.

Unfortunately, this printer has been mostly problems for most who have gotten it. Definitely not ready for release, and lacking a lot of features we see in modern printers. Curious to see the Voron Phoenix, as that engineering team does things right, and while smaller at 600x600, it's still going to be massive.

I think for me the lack of support for reliably printing ABS is the biggest limitation as PLA and PETG only get you so far if if printing commercially, industrial customers will be looking for more technical materials at that scale. Proto-typing yes. But when I prototype large items I do so at 1/4 scale anyhow. That said, good effort with the chair. I suspect that if you had designed for 3d printing the chair would have looked a lot less like a traditional dining chair. And thanks - I don't have to try this myself.

Not sure if the bed would get hot enough but you could try PCTG for stronger parts

PLA is the strongest for static loads like sitting on the stool. PLA is just a bit weaker than PETG when it comes to falling or hitting it with the hammer. Yet I don't know why everybody think that ABS, PETG or Nylon is stronger than PLA.

i dont really know where this comes from, but pla is one of the, if not the most mechanically stable materials you can print. there are cnc machines made from PLA, they dont work with abs or anything besides pla, thats how significantly stronger pla is. the only real downside of pla is its basically non existant shock resistance

Plastic has no mojo, and people hate it. On top of that, people hate the tactile feel of printed goods, and they hate the layer lines. As a woodworker, you probably know a lot of things you would want to do, that just doesn't work with wood. Using mesh or printed patterns, particularly in black, combined with wood, actually looks great. Also, if the wood is adding strength, combining wood and plastic, particularly with patterns and the mesh that you can do, might open some doors. But personally I don't really see much desirable goods that works at this size, being printed. But when you realize that you might print like 700*700mm flat parts, that can be combined with wood or metal, that is probably the initial use for this. More an enabler and mixed material usage. For instance with a wooden stool, it might be easier and probably also nicer if you added padding to it, by snapping it on with some form of printed part. Sadly I do not see a lot of people trying to harvest the benefit from this production method. Patterns and mesh are not really used much, but is unique for this method. The same applies for screws, particularly if you print both the male and the female, say using m14 or m18. You only need like 4,2mm of threading, and they are insanely cheap and strong.

For added strength you might want to look at more perimeters instead of more infilll.

I would definitely put an enclosure on a printer that big even for PLA. I would also add a fillet or chamfer on those chair "joints" to make them a bit stronger. And yes, PETG would be much stronger. Having said that, plastics will never replace wood for me. So unless they come up with a way to 3d print pure wood, you'll have a job.

increase the wall count and design long cylindrical holes in the legs so the printer can make walls there too.

Loved the video! I wonder if you could use a large format printer like this to design and build large router templates, say for guitar bodies. Shows that wood working and 3D printing could have a place along side each other in the future.

first things that come to mind: cosplay and prop making for small theatres and such :)

PLA is the strongest ordinary filament you can print with. It fails in two categories, impact strength and temperature, so don't make ax handles of it. CNC kitchen has done extensive tests, check him out.

Hi 👋 , This would be better making parts for the radio controlled model industry, I have seen things made in metal, but it has to go through a baking process afterwards, very very expensive, I don’t think you’ll be able to business yet not in your lifetime, keep up the great work, At least it was a review , Something you might be interested in is that I’m in the process of design and hopefully not in the two distant future making an elevator lift mechanism from my basement up to my attic, It’s operated by a large electric winch which you can get radio controlled, if you have a way of accessing your basement and cutting a hole through your floor, oh dear, you might be able to build something so you can get boxes like what you have been struggling with up to the next floor just by pressing the button, good luck,

Every time I see a new video about it, I get nervous about my Kickstarter unit

Creative video, thank you :)

worlds best large scale 3D printer is MELTUS V5 with 2.4m3 build volume. But you can buy it only in Russia for 4000$. Large scale 3D printers without enclosure have very limited use cases

You can carbpn fibre wrap prints for strength and looks.

Sounds like you had the exact same issue that the 3DPrintingNerd had with the hotend crashing right into the bed. I think with the size it will be better suited for creating larger models and possibly molds to do resin or silicone in.

Hi, great channel. You can use cling film wrapped around the frame to enclose the print for other filaments.

considering the power draw and print time of this thing, I'd say we're a long way off this.

Increase # of walls for sturdiness. Infill might help, but not as much, and will cost a lot more filament.

Great review, filament is expensive, at this price point you can get 2 good, eco friendly, wooden chairs. I own a Bambu x1 carbon, great printer, not much to do before printing my 3D designed parts.

It looks like the 4 sections of bed are just Neptune 4 max beds stuck together. I have one and while it can totally print very great big prints it is very finicky. For example, the bed needs an extra 20 minutes to heat up every time in order for it to be the same temp all around.

Hardware is really good... hasnt had a successfull print out of the machine. I understand not wanting to upset Elegoo but from every review all showing teething problems (and serious wobble on tall prints) i just dont think this printer is quite finished for full release, which is fine... its why they have sent it out to testers but its just not quite there yet. I'd love to see what furniture you can design with this. If you use a much bigger nozzle and more walls then you will be able to make much stronger prints even without going too heavy on the infill

Wonder if you could do a print in place bedside table witha draw

That head crash seems to have affected every maker I follow. But you're in good company with @3DPrintingNerd, @UncleJessy, and more. Personally, I think this printer will only really make sense with a high flow nozzle … even the current "large" nozzles like 1mm seem small for such a large print volume.

printer of that size I would be making jigs, forms and and such. nice printer!

I get the feeling the seams where the magnetic plates join had something to do with the print failing.

I feel this printer would be good for statue/decor/novelty type of items. I could see cosplayers use it as well. Like, a gamer would love a massive Super Mario statue or something like that. People might also pay some good money for that, too.

I think one reason for both the stool's success and the chair's failure is fillets on stress risers. If you round off those inside corners, the chair will be able to take a lot more weight. It does make it look a LOT more 3D printed or machined and a lot less woodworked, though!

This printer really shines with short, flat parts, since the higher you go the more wobble you get, and the higher the odds of a print failing through a layer shift or similar. Unfortunately, that also means that you can't take advantage of the verticality to make some topology optimized parts that would be a pain to manufacture another way. A simple example of this for shelf brackets: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/a6Oepmt6fJqc1Jc.html I could also see it being used to make scaffolds for fiberglass/carbon fiber weaves, but that's about the only use I could see for having such a large build volume that costs at least $10 a kilo to use. Even a crappy lawn chair is around 2 kilos of plastic, best case.

My brain keeps insisting the printed stool isn't a real object, that it's CGI, even when I _focus_ on the fact of its physical existence. It looks exactly like a 3D model as displayed in CAD software, even when completed, and actually present in real space. I wonder if this is going to become a normal experience for people as more and more of the objects around us are printed? Maybe CGI in TV/movies will become more convincing to eyes primed to expect more CAD-perfect design in everyday life. As a natural consequence of having become accustomed to seeing 3D designs imposed upon the real world, will we become less sensitive to the cues that tell us the "real" from the "virtual?" That's some dystopian YA-novel stuff, right there.

I didn't expect him to say the S word at the end, the beginning was totally PG 💀

Would love to see you make a few fun garden items like statues and bird baths. Possibly even a post box or sundial

At least you admit the chair failed due to design. Look at mcm space age design, it’s mostly plastic furniture. I think with proper structural design and fill it would be great for a space age comeback.

Awesome video with a sensible conclusion :)