This video is much better than the other giga unboxing and assembly videos, which only showed from a distance and nothing up close. Plus you have great personality without the grumbling of some other UKpostsrs 😂

You're probably the most competent person to review this printer, glad to see your thoughts.

Slice engineering makes a 2.4 mm gamma master nozzle that takes 1.75 mm filament, you don’t need 3mm. You could use your machining tools to make your own or drill others out as well. As for the proprietary nozzle length, you can simply put a copper screw as a spacer above a normal volcano length nozzle or even a V6. This is a lot of us in the high flow high-speed community do for extended melt zones.

You could just strap some steel wire diagonally, to put the frame under some tension. This would increase the rigidity drastically.

You are probably the only person with an OrangeStorm Giga that has another printer large enough to store it in. LOL

Rigidity is easy to fix. Just string up some steel wire crossing between the corners. I've always wondered why core XY manufacturers didn't do that from factory.

I'm glad to see you give the machine a look. I agree, it's about the cheapest way that you're going to get into a machine this size. But it's also something that most hobbyists shouldn't be buying until they're absolutely positive that they need to produce parts in a single shot. It's kind of like a belt printer in that regard. It's also been kind of funny to see people post online that they're suddenly concerned about whether they have the space for the machine at home. xD

i think an episode where you upgrade this using all the stuff you've learned on yours (while trying to stay reasonable on cost) would be a great blueprint for people that are looking to get into large format printing but may want to do better than stock.

I can see A LOT of room for improvements for the crazy creative modders.

I would love to see this upgraded so it can print faster and more accurate.

Mounting this thing to the wall seems like a good idea

16:58 😁😆 That smile of GIANT prints is exactly why I jumped on the kickstarter ❤. I would in the kindest way possible BEG to see you lay out upgrades for the hotend 🙏🙏🙏. While it maybe 6months before I would even consider it, I have big plans and NO one better to lay out a step by step recommendation on upgrades. Thank you for the outstanding review.❤

Your smile when you took the dragon off the print bed was amazing, I love 3D printing and knew exactly how you were feeling! Your review and opinions on this printer were the best I've seen, your experience with large format printers shows. Can't wait to see your upgrades/next video on your large format printer. Keep up the great work!

To solve the problem of vibrations, you can place steel cables with tensioners in each corner in the shape of an "X", in the openings that the supports have, a cheap solution that in principle works well.

I like the idea of a remix with two beds instead of four and not so high so it can be put on a shelf. 800w x 400d x 400h opens up lots of long and thin objects with strength in the long axis, while still racking onto deep shelving.

This was such a fantastic video! Amazing job on this & can’t wait to see that huge wind device!

Maybe a follow up where you bolt up some plywood sheets as shear plates? I feel like for an extra $60, this would greatly improve the major issue of vibration.

i think adding acrylic sheets, of maybe 4 to 6mm thick inside the frame on the sides and back could highly improve rigidity of the frame, since theres indeed very little crossbracing. and the acrylic sheet of your choice of colour could add something to the look of the printer!

As you were asking for feedback: - Great video, love it! - Yes, a modified / upgraded tool head would be highly appreciated. - Stability issues / vibration: As already mentioned in other comments, I would go for either additional struts or diagonal cables. And if the top stays still open, really huge prints could even be removed without dismantling the structural support. - Print idea: As TPU seemed to work fine, how about printing a nice flexible waste paper bin? And, of course, we _need_ so see a GIGA BENCHY! 😉😂

You need a filament drier for that 10kg filament spool!!! lol

finally!!! you are absolutely single one person who manage to reasonably review this printer on the WHOLE PLANET. thank you...

I have this machine on order...yes, yes, yes start the extruder upgrades. Best unboxing video to date on this machine! Keep up the great work. (I purchased this machine for wind turbines also.)

Give this machine some crossing cables on the sides to make it rigid and a 1mm nozzle on a proper hotend, and it should be great!

Nice review! Looks like they need more bracing and definitely an upgraded extruder with a much larger nozzle. A few strange choices, but it's def impressive.

For stability, you can print some brackets and screw the top-back side of the printer to the wall.

A good upgrade would be a Beacon Eddy Current Surface Scanner. Bed leveling would be a lot quicker. Hopefully you upgrade it to make it better.

Instead of vertical support columns, make them extending outward at a 20 deg angle. This will create a solid tripod design that can't flex.

X-bracing on three sides and wall mounts connected to the top of the printer would greatly improve rigidity. Make the wall mounts long and quickly removable, as well as one of the X-braces, and you've reduced most of the negatives of the added bracing. I wish I knew about the early adopter fund me page!

Would you recommend creating a pellet extruder to allow for more volumetric flow and also possibly modifying the extruder to have a beacon?

Honestly... I was really impressed with what elegoo has designed. It's sturdy looking and well designed overall and it would have been hard for me to do better for the price. If I had room I'd buy one. Also that giant effing dragon is probably exactly what I'd print most... I've got the files for the same one (and several others) that I bought...and honestly....worth. Also, upgrading to a nema36 is totally an easy thing for this design, and honestly you could probably go to 4 of them pretty easily and really have a solid and FAST machine.

I feel like those corner braces have some perfect holes for using some Wire Balustrade Kits to tighten up the shaking and add some diagonal rigidity.

That's an insane machine, would love to have the need, space, and money for one myself :) The levelling procedure was great. The combination of the metal plates with levelling screw cutouts and the software interface for both the bulk probing and individual point reprobing along with the readout giving you an idea of how far to turn each screw was amazing, though it would have been nice if it also converted the value to number of turns or something equivalent. Still really nice though. While I share your concerns about the rigidity of the frame towards the top, I don't believe that was the only issue with the turbine blade you printed. It's movement looked like the nozzle was dragging when moving past/over it, and thus pushing the blade. This is an issue with printing any tall and thin parts. Strictly it happens with sturdier prints too, but those prints are substantial enough that it is less likely to have an effect. This can often (but not always) be mitigated by using Z-hop, at the potential cost of increased stringing. Something I noted during assembly was that the toolplate had multiple Canbus ports on it, suggesting the possibility for a multiple toolhead printer. Either that or toolhead addons such as alternative z-probes or an accelerometer for resonance tuning. Resonance tuning for a printer such as this with its frame wobble at high z heights would be great, especially if it is possible to have the tuning be z-dependent (I am not sure if Klipper has this functionality, but I could see it becoming a thing). Overall the ease of use and setup, combined with its low price point make it seem like a reasonable choice for someone who needs a large format printer.

would be interesting to se what it takes for this to become a more usable printer at that large size (like, can you relativly easily stiffen it up enough, and what would it take to give it a far more flow capability so you can print big, reasonable quality and faster. I assume increasing flow and nozzle size would help a lot since you don't need to move as fast to print a lot faster.

I'd definitely like to see videos about upgrading this printer, such as upgrading extruder tool head, bracing, sensors etc

Best review so far; concise and eloquent! 👌🖤

I'm waiting for my OSG to arrive in a couple months. So glad you have made a video on it. Please mod this machine to make it better! Like a better extruder, figuring out how to use IDEX for multicolor printing, enclose this beast and add a chamber heater.

"For 1.75mm filament, the nozzle has to be smaller", no, not really. 3dsolex, who owns the patent that Bondtech uses to produce their CHT nozzles, sells nozzles up to 2mm for 1.75mm filament. I have one ;)

Thanks for this. I guess adding some diagonal bars to stiffen it up will help greatly, and of course, an accelerometer - I mean - it runs klipper, so it shouldn't be that hard :)

I find it interesting he opted to use the dead center of the printer for most of his prints rather than using the advertised feature of only utilizing one bed.

for the price point , that is a heck of a deal !!! the materials alone are worth it !! maybe brace it with steel wire to the base or add more extrusions to it to stiffen it up ,also maybe increase the contact area of the base to the floor and weigh it down. there is ways to combat that wobbling at the top , but i still cant get over the low price , its definitely a good base to modify and DIY if you want a large 3D printer they should ship the corner brackets separately for them not to get damaged

So you unpacked it the living room, but then assembled in the garage.... i feel there is a story there :)

Would love to see an extruder upgrade for this printer to increase its speed and flow and maybe some ideas on how to enclose it for working with abs? If you get it working and dont want to return it do you think it might be worth drilling and installing acrylic plates directly into the printers frame and adding front doors to it to make it fully enclosed? It might ruin the aesthetics of the printer but I would sacrifice a pretty printer for a printer with enhanced capabilities any day at this price point... and heck the acrylic should help by adding some bracing for the whole printer. I'm waiting on my printer for printing large molds to work with composites I know ill likely need to work on the prints surface finish anyway to get the quality i want on my finished parts but that can be done with sanding and fillers, this printer is mainly a means to remove the disposable buck process and jump straight to the mold process from cad. It would take several days to weeks to make the molds by hand from a buck and then make parts, this will allow me to make large molds with relatively little effort and time investment where I can spend it on actually building the parts or designing and simulating them.

Pull some cross wires to stiffen the frame even more? There will probably be 3rd party nozzle extender spacers. So can use V6 and Volcano nozzles easily.

Very nice you take non-planar printing into consideration. Good job!👍🏻👍🏻

you are the perfect person to review this printer and you nailed it, thanks :) please modify it and make more videos, that would be awesome!

Excellent review, and I had a lot of the same concerns. To me, it's largely a parts kit printer with a Huge frame. Seems as the future owner will be in upgrade mode right out of the box, which is rather disappointing, but it's a decent base with a relatively easy path to get this chonk into acceptable capability. A higher flowing hotend would be job one though, which to me appears to be a huge oversight from Elegoo. Nema 23's should have been standard equipment on that large of a frame size/mass ratio.

one interesting thought that came to mind: a huge printer like this could be less negatively affected by lowering the acceleration rates (depending on the print) since it's likely doing much longer runs where it can really get up to speed. So you might be able to reduce the vibration issues by turning down acceleration without necessarily a huge hit to total print time

I would use 1.0 mm nozzle as default, lowering the speed and vibration, increasing the flow rate. At this scale it will be sufficient and possibly better print quality

A extruder upgrade video would be nice.👍

The hot end looks a lot like the one on my Neptune 4 max except with a longer heat block and nozzle. For the max there's a printable bamboo lab adapter. Maybe that'll help.

Hurray! My favorite foreign blogger! Excellent honest review from a technical point of view!🎉❤

Excellent review! Question: Since you are into structural items, could some simple diagonal braces at each corner significantly reduce vibration? That would be a cheap and easy fix, and wingnuts could be used to simplify removing them if they got in the way of removing a large printed part. Also, what are your thoughts about moving the rear mounted spool holder to the front for easier access?

Seems like the rigidity could be vastly improved with less than 100$ of aluminum (or carbon fiber tubes) and an hour of time.

Great video... and I genuinely can't believe you got that thing to +/- 0.4mm. That's insane for a build plate that size.

1.5k to 2k is certainly affordable, i guess, but the size isn't really "hobby size" it's more of a "look how big I can print in my garage" size. I'd much prefer the Magneto X, which although smaller, costs about the same, and can also print at 800mm/s.

I have a project which needs to be done in single print preferrably, actually multiple such, and even Giga is too small for some of them. HVAC / Datacenter related stuff. Just doing the first project, probably a week or two of printing or so with the giga will save me multiple times what the printer did cost. Or put in other words, i would have made that DIY still, different materials, by hand, but Giga gives me better end result, while i have to spent fraction of the working time on it.

so, what im hearing is, bolt it to the wall, and swap a 1mm nozzle into it

3rd solution to the filament runout sensor have the sensor right above the extruder as it's direct drive and your can save so much filament with that

Have you thought about using orcaslicer and not the elegoo cura slicer provided? How about strengthening the frame to avoid the Z axis wobble? Also wondering if the beacon or similar fast probe would really work given it looks like you have a klipper interface from the outset ? Can it really be that simple?

Thank you! Would love to see with upgraded extruder. Pellet extruder would be even better (workhorse or something larger but affordable)

15:24 with it having Klipper, wouldn't Input Shaping or Resonance Compensation help to reduce the ringing from the top-most vibrations? Or is layer-shifting the real concern here?

Hi, I just found your channel, great work. I’m looking for a pellet extruder that has options for multiple extruders feeding one mandrel and die for simultaneous layering of two to three different thermoplastic types or mixing in additives like glass fill that you can adjust on the fly for greater strength added strategically through out a large part. Have you come across anything like I described on the market today?

Hey Dr. D-Flo, I was wondering about your thoughts on potentially having a pellet extruder modification of the orangestorm giga, any thoughts? Thanks!

Looking forward to buy one!

My main thought on the printer is that Elegoo took a very small form factor approach to a large form factor printer. When you’re doing a printer that big but still trying to keep the filament compatibility to 1.75 mm then you’re going to be massively limiting the capabilities of the printer. Also, it’s funny that they decided to use such a massive nozzle yet I’m able to easily crank way more than that on my regular volcano hot end with just a CHT added.

Is there a cavity in the frame extrusions suitable for filling with oily sand?

i'm interested in seeing a 3mm filament and extruder conversion. not really thinking of buying or anything, but just you know, I would find that an interesting thing. the new extruder and doing the new extruder for this seems weird. is there some cht shenigans going on inside the nozzle?

You need a thermal stable room as well. With such long aluminum extrusions the thermal expansion must be noticeable in a multi day print.

Another potential selling point is the ability to attach 3 additional printheads to the X axis and have them all print in duplicate.

Insane video ! Could you make a beefy hotend version and explain when it is necessary to switch from filament to pellets in terms of volumetric flow rate ? Thanks !

You can add some X bracing or solid sheets of material to the outer sides of the printer, then crank up the speed without degradation!

I'm extremely curious if some cables going corner to corner in an X, with turnbuckles to allow for tensioning and adjustment would make it strong enough to not give issues at the top of the travel.

Great video I would consider getting one but do not have the room I run an ender 3 pro and going to extend it Double the size

Do you think a simple X cable setup on two sides of the printer would be enough to aid in reducing the print artifacts at higher levels? This seems like a relatively cost effective solution.

What the name of the music played when he started the probing time “11:54”on the printer

Very nice video! I don't understand why this frame doesn't have cross bracing, at least on the sides, back and top of the machine. Even just some steel cables under tension would work and wouldn't have added much to the cost. It's all parallel structure with all the rigidity coming from the corners, by how easy it was to square one of the brackets back this just isn't ideal. The missing reverse bowden tube is another thing I don't understand why they didn't include it, even if it just avoids one issue that leads to a failed print it would've paid itself back.

I want to see you print a 4ft model of the Raider Class Corvette from Star Wars. As for the top heavy vibration when doing large prints that's is an easy fix by building a top support frame you can anchor to a wall

thing to print next would be cross beam supports to replace those corner brackets with, as well as a brick holders to keep a bunch of mass on the top, might seriously increase print speeds. Come to think about it, much larger corner brackets would work nicely

Nice vid. For the giga could you just cinch down a tie down at the top of the printer to hold all four sides tighter? Works for flopping steal and wood on the back of a truck and fast! Can't wait to see your. wind project.

Looks like the hotend and extruder are the exact same that can be found on the Neptune 4 series. I think that with a proper nozzle you could go a high as 45mm3/s… Will still take a while to print a cube with large density but yeah, here comes the variable infill ;)

You just need some diagonal cross frames to stabilize and tie the top to the bottom.

How difficult would it be to swap out the extruder head for something else, like a pellet extruder?

Is standing and kneeeling on the bed a good idea?

They might also be using 4 beds for the same reason the in development Voron Phoenix will, the heatup can be staggered across the bed heaters reducing overall total pull on the circuit. allowing it to be run on a typical home outlet.

Just watched a 3d printing nerd's video about this same printer and omg what a load of nothing it was. a whuge waste of 20min it was. Love your videos, professional and informative. awesome content as always

Great video. Wish I had gotten in on this Kickstarter, I didn't know about it. It is a luxury, but there are a few places it would work great. Unfortunately at estimate $2500 this is not for the home hobbyist. Keep us the great work!

Me thinks that if you bolt to the frame some perspex/plexiglass sheets of 5-8mm thickness, plus one on the top, you get some sort of enclosure and enhance the rigidity a lot, and I mean... a lot.

Is there an easy way to mount this frame to corners of the rooms walls? That should be able to significantly reduce vibration issues!

Would love to see you upgrade and mod this printer! Especially since it runs Klipper, it shouldn't be too hard.

Seen reviews of this printer but seeing it next to your printer really shows just how big it is. I have no need for anything that big and I already blow through enough filament already. Been considering having a go at building a filament extruder and reel system just for kicks. The raw materials are so much cheaper. (yes I know machines like filastruder exist)

$2500 is incredible for this build volume, consider that the fancy machines (bambu lab etc) are also multiple thousands with regular build plates

i would like one about 2/3rd's size honestly. there are cases where a single large print is more useful then smaller prints in pieces, but i can't justify something quite that big that can only realtstically print thin parts

I think if you put some corner to corner bracing on 3 sides if with help with the rigidity . Try it and do another video.

1500W = 7A in most countries. Is it 1500W in Europe as well? I know that printers like the Bambu machines have completely different power consumptions in 120v and 230v countries, heating up far faster on 230v.

I would buy a big UPS along with it to keep it going safely for long prints.

Can't wait to see upgrade motors, extruder and maybe Klipper..

id be very interested to see how some small upgrades to it might make it much better maybe printing out cross members for it on itself. or just brackets for more extruded aluminum, something this effective and cheap is begging for upgrades

How long until someone adapts something like Afterburner / EVA with Rapido UHF on one of these? ;)

Agree with the criticisms in the vid and those brought up here. Looks like they literally just built a 4x bigger core XY and "shipped it". Lots of room for improvement. In the current configuration, I bet you could build your own w/ some long extrusions and 4x build plates for less...

Would it help to mount some braces to walls... say set it in a corner with bracing