When this food with a history of many thousands of years is laid out in dishes, then it can only cause horror in nutritionists, and even then it is feigned. Because nutritionists are people too, and the love of rich and hearty food is written in our genes more reliably than the commandments on stone tablets.
But when the products for this dish are just getting ready to become food, then the pampered townspeople can be shocked and horrified by the appearance of such meat.
- Citizens, this is meat!
- Meat, these are the townspeople, do not be afraid of them. Not every one of them is ready to eat you like this.
The fact is that not everywhere they prefer to eat fresh, fresh meat. On the contrary, the peoples who keep the most ancient culture of eating meat prefer to dry it at least a little before eating, so that the surface of the meat dries up a little before the meat gets into the cauldron.
I was incredibly lucky: only one half of my stove is in the kitchen, and the other part is behind the wall, in the cold. Therefore, it is cool in an unheated stove, and thanks to natural draft, there is always a draft in a stove with open dampers. Therefore, the cold oven proved to be an ideal place for drying and drying meat.
If you are less fortunate, then you don't need to dry the meat - to hell with it, authenticity, you shouldn't risk your health. So I didn't dry the lamb, but just sprinkled it with salt and cumin and left it in the zero chamber of the refrigerator for several days. I salted the beef and horse meat, and, to insure against trouble, sprinkled it with ground cumin, which has aseptic properties. Kazy boiled for about thirty minutes in other water to remove the excessively bright smell.
It would be possible to do with just kazy, beef and lamb, because if we talk about the use of horse meat in this dish, then one should use not one type of it - from the thigh, but different parts of the carcass.
And what about horse meat? Well, to the east of Moscow they love and eat it, and to the west of Petersburg, go and faint at the very word of horse meat.
But drying and drying meat as a culinary technique has a rational grain in it.
In addition to improving the flavor and consistency of meat through fermentation, there is another aspect that should be mentioned.
When we fry fresh meat over a fire, meat juice flows out of it.
When we cook meat, the same meat juice comes out into the broth, it is from it that the foam is formed, which it is customary to remove.
But the fact is that this meat juice contains protein, for which we eat meat. And precisely for the sake of preserving the protein inside, the meat begins to be cooked not in cold water (as they do when they want to get broth), but in boiling water. And preliminary drying of the surface of the meat significantly reduces the loss of protein, as evidenced by the slight formation of foam.
If I had cooked from unprepared meat, then I would have done a simpler thing: I would have tied the meat in muslin or calico, and I would have cooked it that way.
After the foam has departed, the heating under the cauldron should be reduced to a minimum, even if it does not boil at all, but only occasionally gurgles. Indeed, in order for the meat to cook, too high a temperature is not needed - only time is needed.
Despite the fact that we took all measures to get tasty meat, and not broth, the broth still turns out to be rich and tasty. And what else can it be if 5 kilograms of meat are put on 5 liters of water?
A cup of broth, some eggs and good flour with a spoonful of salt are what you need to make the dough.
Meanwhile, pieces of meat gradually migrated from the cauldron to the dish, but only this is what happened on the way.
While the meat was boiling, I saw that the broth turns out to be wonderful, but ... low-fat.
Two pieces of fat tail with a palm solved the issue in twenty minutes.
Now the broth is right and you can cook the dough in it.
Now you can put the onion on top of the dough.
Now you can cut the meat into slices, heat it up in the broth for a minute and place it on top of everything. And do not forget to put a board with a knife on the table - cut the meat as the eaters eat it.
Satisfied, eaters will understand that something very important is missing, without which this food cannot be considered complete. Do you think I mean greens and vegetables? No, let the cows and mares eat grass, they will bring calves and foals and give milk and kumis. And in combination with the sun, fresh steppe wind, katyk and kumis, this food will allow hundreds of generations of strong and healthy people to survive.
Here it is - Beshbarmak: great and terrible, like the hum from the hooves of a thousand-headed herd.
Make way!
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