Make Your Own Optical Lenses

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Breaking Taps

Breaking Taps

День тому

Today we're making lenses with epoxy, using a replication molding technique. It... mostly works 😇
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==== Details ====
We can replicate lenses using silicone molds and optical epoxy resin. But there are a lot of caveats to this technique, and little hiccups that will ruin the optical finish. To achieve an optical finish, you need surface roughness and figure deviation in the nanometer range. This means curing temperature and shrinkage become major sources of error.
Residual stress in the molded parts can be assessed with polarized light and a polarizer in front of the camera.
==== Prior Videos ====
Injection molded lenses: • Machining an injection...
Microlenses: • Molding a Microlens Array
==== Materials ====
Mold material: Smooth-On Mold Max XLS ii
Optical resin: Smooth-On Epoxacast 690 clear
==== Analysis Equipment ====
nGauge AFM from ICSPI (www.icspicorp.com/)
Phenom XL SEM from Thermo
Gwyddion for AFM post-processing
Blender for 3D AFM rendering
==== Timeline ====
0:00 Intro
1:09 Replication Molding
3:04 Alternative mandrel material
3:37 Molding and casting technique
4:30 Fabricated lens examples
7:26 Molding priorities
9:38 Molding materials and considerations
10:49 Mold release difficulties
14:30 Shrinkage difficulties
16:04 Effect of Temperature
17:20 Internal stress and polarized light
18:51 Mechanical difficulties
19:40 Alternatives to silicone?
20:40 Direct molding off mandrel?
21:45 Refinement for future work
23:45 Concluding remarks

КОМЕНТАРІ: 612
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
*Note about the audio* 🚨 Sorry for the noise gate issue! The SEM is in the same room and has two pumps running continuously (diaphragm pump + turbomolecular pump). I cover it all in acoustic material, but there is still a lot of noise to clean up. And apparently I did a bad job this time (combination of noise removal in Izotope and gating in Resolve). Apologies for the audio discomfort! I edit with headphones on, but probably went numb to it after a while and didn't notice. Luckily, it should improve soon... the SEM is moving to a new room in the near future 🙂 *Addendum* It seems I overstated how hard it is to grind and polish polymers! Several folks have informed me that e.g. eyeglasses are mostly polymers these days. I'm not sure what kind of tolerance they hold relative to glass lenses, but clearly it's a mass-produced and probably polished on-demand for each prescription. I suspect it's still a lot harder to DIY good polymer lens grinding than glass though.
@xx-vk5ol
@xx-vk5ol 2 роки тому
I really appreciate the honesty, most creators would just ignore a slight issue like this. Well done !.
@SamGossner
@SamGossner 2 роки тому
Still better sounding than 90% of UKposts videos! :) Just consider making the "release" of the gate/noise remover a bit longer or go with an expander instead and it won't be so noticeable, or even consider layering in some pink or brownian noise (or background music) back after the removal to avoid the total lack of noise. Most noise filters or multi-band expanders/gates also let you adjust the frequency band it works on the most. You can hunt down those upper-mid early reflections that are giving you the most audible trouble with overall less noise removal. Also, never forget the inverse square law: the closer you can get the mic to you and the further you can get it from the noise source, the easier your life will be in post. Likewise, if there is a specific noise source, rather than putting the mic in a traditional spot (e.g. above the head or near the camera), point it so the null of the cardioid pattern (i.e. back of the mic) is pointed directly at the noise source. You're only getting maybe -6 dB rejection on the side of the mic in the traditional arrangement, but in the null you might get -15, -20, even -30 dB through most of the audible band on a small diaphragm condenser.
@darkairieal
@darkairieal 2 роки тому
If you layer a long piece of just noise floor audio from anywhere (doesn't have to be your lab) put it under your audio at like -40db to -30db it'll remove the jarryness of the audio cuts.
@silverwaffles
@silverwaffles 2 роки тому
Great to see that this was noticed, it's a small thing, but it's good to see you care. I really enjoy the videos,
@victortitov1740
@victortitov1740 2 роки тому
i do not notice it at all, listening through my speaker, even if i try to. As @Sam Gossner wrote, you sound better than many other youtubers.
@codemakeshare
@codemakeshare 2 роки тому
The definition of "home shop" seems to a bit fluid, but maybe that's just me ;) "making optical-quality surfaces [...] is really hard to do in a home shop, I don't have a single-point diamond lathe." "just sputter some silver onto your glass in your sputtering chamber..." "let's look at this under the SEM / atomic force microscope..." Just joking of course, awesome content, very interesting.
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Haha, ok that's fair 😂
@TheRojecas
@TheRojecas 2 роки тому
I thought the same in those exact instant.
@NineSun001
@NineSun001 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps I am just amazed by the quality of some of the home labs out there. TheThoughtEmporium is also quite amazing if it comes to home labs.
@bobareddy1297
@bobareddy1297 2 роки тому
Some home shops are better than others!
@KarlMiller
@KarlMiller Рік тому
That's hilarious! ... but I think you missed the point altogether. The point is, that it is a demonstration of a guy who has these things IN HIS HOME SHOP. Of course, that gives us husbands clear proof that the best makers NEED these tools! Okay, I will admit the scanning electron microscope may be a bit pricy, and never in stock at Home Depot, so my wife can better justify a SawStop tablesaw with less bickering.
@SarahKchannel
@SarahKchannel 2 роки тому
hmmm... i did a few things but improved the surface by spin coating the optical elements in a second step with resin. The layer is very thing to the spin coating but finishes the surface to much higher perfection.
@peterjf7723
@peterjf7723 2 роки тому
Spin-casting should be good for making a reflective mirror. By adjusting the rotation speed you could in theory make different focal length mirrors.
@poptartmcjelly7054
@poptartmcjelly7054 2 роки тому
@@peterjf7723 Yes, just by spinning the epoxy in a container, the surface of the epoxy would form into a perfectly parabolic shape thanks to centripetal force.
@peterjf7723
@peterjf7723 2 роки тому
@@poptartmcjelly7054 I wonder how good the optical would be.
@jcims
@jcims 2 роки тому
Could you expand on this just a smidge, it sounds interesting. Are you spin coating the pattern/mandrel, the mold or the part?
@poptartmcjelly7054
@poptartmcjelly7054 2 роки тому
@@peterjf7723 bubbles might cause a problem with the surface and the uneven distribution of heat within the epoxy might add distortions also but i think it would be fun to see it tried out.
@AlphaPhoenixChannel
@AlphaPhoenixChannel 2 роки тому
Very cool! The surface finish and actual shape (I forget your actual word for that) look amazing! I have to say I’m drooling at the thought of a diamond lathe for making aspheric curvatures but I’m afraid to look up the cost…
@cncgeneral
@cncgeneral 2 роки тому
You can probably get a monocrystaline diamond cutter from china fairly cheap, then any cnc lathe will do a good enough job to test things
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Yeah, not half bad for such a janky setup! Definitely not going to put Leica or Zeiss out of business any time soon though 😂 I did some poking around and it seems entry SPDT lathes start around 350k USD. It's not as much as I expected, but still a pretty darn expensive single-purpose, niche tool!
@DirtyRobot
@DirtyRobot 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps Take a look at Huygens Optics channel.
@bjarnivalur6330
@bjarnivalur6330 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps I won't call it cheap but I was expecting, at least, one more zero on the price.
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Yeah I was really expecting the same!
@zakariakhamees
@zakariakhamees 2 роки тому
This was very interesting for me. I am a mechanical engineer and usually watch makers on UKposts such as yourself so i am happy YT recommended this vid. As a person who wears glasses and get them scratched in no time, making my own lenses at home would be awesome!
@ebrewste
@ebrewste 2 роки тому
You have a great presence in your videos. The lack of BS and depth of technical combined with an accessible persona is great. I look forward to every video, often in topics I didn’t know I was interested in .
@ZsOtherBrother
@ZsOtherBrother Рік тому
@ebrewste I feel the same way, thanks for putting it into words. ...And kudos for the way you did, keeping it short while capturing the essence is not easy, (at least for me:).
@ikocheratcr
@ikocheratcr 2 роки тому
Regarding stiffness issue, maybe use a CNCed part the is "pretty" close to the lens you want, so the silicone pour you need is just a thin layer. I know you will hit the issue of silicone not adhering to this stiff base, so maybe CNC also some "holes" (|like a mesh), so silicone has a lot of mechanical grab. Really nice that you share the issues you found, I think that is the most interesting part. When things work, those are more boring ;)
@danlandia4399
@danlandia4399 2 роки тому
Was going to suggest this. Reducing amount of error the silicone can introduce may reduce overall error.
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
I think this would help a lot! Didn't occur to me at the time, but yeah, some kind of "pre-form" I think would help to both provide mechanical support, and reduce silicone consumption (which also means it would cure more uniformly due to thinner, more consistent layers). Good idea!
@zacharyshort7795
@zacharyshort7795 2 роки тому
i was going to comment that theres no way a CNC he could get would be able to produce a mirror finish but i realized i read the comment wrong. :(
@hadinossanosam4459
@hadinossanosam4459 2 роки тому
As a bonus, the metal preform should act as a thermal mass and keep curing more even (and could be water-cooled much more easily than a silicone mold, I imagine)
@squidcaps4308
@squidcaps4308 2 роки тому
Hmm... i should try this. I've been making deformed lenses from cyanoacrylate. The whole point of those is to have optical quality "blobs". They give uneven ghostly images when used with RGB leds, deliberately breaking the smooth beam. As the RGB elements are slightly off set from each other, each individual led gives its own distorted image. But because they are so close to each other, you get similar shapes, for ex arc where one side is blue, one is red with a green band in the middle. When you slowly fade them out, it animates the image.. Very, very beautiful. This experimentation started from using crumpled mylar as a reflector. It just loses a lot of strength and it is difficult to get it at optimal distance. But distorting the image at the source, i get must clearer image. I add layers of cyanoacrylate, let it drip using accelerator in the other hand to freeze the shapes in place.
@evren.builds
@evren.builds 2 роки тому
Do you have video clips of this? Sounds amazing ^^
@albertogregory9678
@albertogregory9678 2 роки тому
Agreed, please share some images / videos / words on the process!
@JatPhenshllem
@JatPhenshllem 6 місяців тому
Dang, I need to see the resulting images of this
@seanmcelwee5034
@seanmcelwee5034 2 роки тому
Would be curious if you could use a non silica glass, like CaF2 or MgF2 to avoid to silicone/silica bonding issues with the mold and not require sputter coating
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Oh, I hadn't even thought of non-silica glass. That's a very interesting idea!
@graealex
@graealex 2 роки тому
While lenses made from fluorides exist, they are reasonably expensive compared to glass lenses. I imagine the simplest and cheapest way would be to buy lenses that already have some sort of coating, or spin coat and bake them yourself.
@T3sl4
@T3sl4 2 роки тому
Or AR coatings. Some of which might not be too hard to sputter/evaporate so you've got a leg up on that one! (Again, give or take size of pattern/mold fitting inside the chamber.)
@graealex
@graealex 2 роки тому
@@T3sl4 I mean, the matter of fact is that he actually has the necessary equipment to sputter lenses himself, so what we are all describing are ways to do it if didn't have that.
@eulemitbeule5426
@eulemitbeule5426 2 роки тому
@@graealex Well, ZnSe lenses are a thing and actually somewhat cheap since they're used for CO2 cutters
@danielpirone8028
@danielpirone8028 2 роки тому
I am a noob and I know this sounds a bit bonkers - but I wonder about some out of box approaches - thinking about how fresnel work - I wonder if building a lens or mirror - micron by micron, so you can control refractive index and chromatic aberration and internal reflection Is possible in a well appointed home shop. You and Applied Science channel could have a fun go at it !
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Might be a bit out of my skillset, but there's some neat work done in this area using two-photon lithography. Basically does exactly what you said: prints them up layer by layer at a small enough scale to avoid aberrations. Check out this paper for example (open access: www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmats.2020.586496/full ), they print lenses on the end of optical fibers. Pretty cool!
@danielpirone8028
@danielpirone8028 2 роки тому
Sweet! I was just riffing- sounds like I have some fun homework!
@karim1485
@karim1485 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps The link is broken - love your community engagement, keep it up :)
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
@@karim1485 Fixed, thanks for the ping!
@nk6522
@nk6522 Рік тому
This was such a good, helpful and well-researched video! No time wasted and the extra stuff such as diagrams and putting lenses through polarised light to show the tensions makes such a difference in understanding wtf is going on. Thank you!!
@harmlesscreationsofthegree1248
@harmlesscreationsofthegree1248 2 роки тому
Your vids are always interesting, your production quality outstanding and your presentation is spot on. Consistently excellent and one of my favourite channels for all of those reasons!
@silencedandshadowbanned7277
@silencedandshadowbanned7277 2 роки тому
Dude you're the first to do this thank you I was wondering why no one had ever done this I looked it up months ago to see if I could do this myself but no one has ever I guess until now.
@user-xe8oi5oq6c
@user-xe8oi5oq6c 2 роки тому
What an amazing job! I'd suggest post-curing the ready lenses in an oven at about 85 Celsius before disassembling molds. This is used for ordinary epoxy in order to make it stronger, but in your case it may relieve internal stresses. The post-cure temperature is close to melting point of the epoxy. An another trick may be - create lens with say 95% of the desired thickness. Post-cure etc. Disassemble mold. Then add some epoxy on both sides, assemble and cure, post-cure. Ready. You can try to defeat shrinkage in such way.
@olekaarvaag9405
@olekaarvaag9405 2 роки тому
I'm glad you decided to make and upload this video even though you didn't perfect it. Love the video format!
@HuygensOptics
@HuygensOptics 2 роки тому
Hi Zach, nice work. I was wondering what your ultimate goal is exactly. If you want to make spherical surfaces, you should not start with a spherical mold, because then you will end up with an oblate elliptical surface, due to the volume shrink. So for making spherical surfaces, you need to start out with some kind of parabola/hyperbola. By the way, if you want to make epoxy/glass fiber mirrors of high quality (for example for telescopes), maybe reconsider: it is technically virtually impossible. I can mail you a few references if you want.
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Ah yeah, that makes sense! Can account for shrinkage by adjusting the shape of the mold first. 👍 Would definitely be interested in those references! I've seen a number of papers in regards to replicated CFRP telescope mirrors and while they all highlight challenges (molding distortion, fiber print-through, differential thermal expansion, moisture absorption over time, etc) none of it appeared to be insurmountable. But perhaps once you consider all those challenges in aggregate it just becomes too hard to produce something optically good enough for a telescope? Definitely going to pretend I didn't read that it was impossible and continue trying though, haha. A guy can dream 😁
@dandan-gf4jk
@dandan-gf4jk 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps I'll admit I have zero experience with epoxy but an idea came to me. Could you cure the epoxy at elevated pressure? I'd assume it would make the final part higher density and maybe get rid of most imperfections making it a feasible technique for optical parts. Could also help with the uneven forces on the mold.
@babylonfive
@babylonfive 8 місяців тому
Great to see some favorite optics guys know each other...
@excitedbox5705
@excitedbox5705 2 роки тому
You could polish the lenses before hand to remove some of the imperfections. Then you will want to spin coat a low viscosity mold release to get a smooth surface. degassing the resins premixing will let you degas it better/more gently once it is mixed. If you sputter coat the glass lens with silver as a mold release you could get a perfect surface. Since it has no silicon in it, it wont stick.
@OddLlama
@OddLlama 2 роки тому
Loving your content so far. I can see your channel growing exponentially in the near future!
@janedavis1730
@janedavis1730 3 місяці тому
I worked for years in a surface lab lapping and polishing plastic lenses all day. It's absolutely practical
@klick2destruct
@klick2destruct 2 роки тому
Coolest channel! I love understanding these processes that are normally out of reach because they are so industrialized. Not to say that it's easy to create a great lens but understanding the principles brings me great joy!
@hashemmehyar9614
@hashemmehyar9614 2 роки тому
I didn't expect this much knowledge and experience from a YT video, this is a paper worthy type of information
@PonderousRage
@PonderousRage 2 роки тому
Absolutely loving your content. Keep it coming!
@JonS
@JonS 2 роки тому
Instead of sputtering metal on to the glass lenses, you could try an oleophobic coating that once applied and then polished off leaves a nanometer-scale fluorine-based layer on the glass. Try talking to Aculon in San Diego. As you alluded to, you probably want to minimize the thickness of the silicone molds and bond them to a steel plate with cooling channels so you can actively cool the parts while curing. For the single-step molding, you can use an optical grade silicone (yes, you can make silicone lenses, I've seen a few very nice examples). A longer runner might help reduce the stress at the gate location. The chromatic aberrations you are seeing are likely caused by dispersion. The epoxy you are using likely has a high dispersion (low Abbe number). The common method of canceling dispersion is to combine high and low dispersion elements (classically this was a flint and crown glass element). Do note that your lens copies won't match the glass originals, even if you perfectly copy the form and eliminate all stresses, as the refractive index and Abbe numbers will be different from that of the glass.
@uwezimmermann5427
@uwezimmermann5427 2 роки тому
That's a really interesting project! I guess the biggest step is the stress-free curing of the epoxy so that you get rid of the birefringence. (just a small comment: the noise gate on your audio is a bit disturbing when listening with headphones. Don't be afraid of a bit of background noise...)
@SinanAkkoyun
@SinanAkkoyun 2 роки тому
Thank you so much as always!!! When I find time I will absolutely try this out with some fresnel lenses!
@ZURAD
@ZURAD 2 роки тому
This is really neat! I may actually play around with this. I actually have some smooth-on silicon and acrylic resins. Would potentially be cool to cast a lens in the inverse of the type you wanted. Say if you wanted a concave lens of a certain camber, just cast it in a convex lens of the inverse camber.
@squa_81
@squa_81 2 роки тому
this channel is a goldmine for people who like people making stuff
@UNVIRUSLETALE
@UNVIRUSLETALE 2 роки тому
Spdt sounds really cool, didn't know how those molds were made, this channel is amazing
@WhiteThumbs
@WhiteThumbs Рік тому
So chill, I made one of these for my Rink building maintenance refrigeration engineering book, so I can magnify things around the arena!
@rusticagenerica
@rusticagenerica 2 місяці тому
The carbon fiber mirror idea is excellent. Thanks for sharing the knowledge you gained with us, for free.
@h7opolo
@h7opolo 3 місяці тому
You're really thorough and knowledgeable with a soothing voice. Subbed.
@wolpumba4099
@wolpumba4099 2 роки тому
Can you use a lens with anti-reflection coating (MgF) to prevent sticking of silicone?
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Hmm that's a good idea. I'm not sure, but probably! Not sure how durable those coatings are so it might start to degrade but if you can get a clean mold off the first time it shouldn't matter.
@eapellow9767
@eapellow9767 2 роки тому
@@BreakingTaps Being hydrophobic, it should be fine. The AR coatings are PH sensitive though, not sure if that's an issue. I work in a digital eye lab and we use lye to strip AR coatings, but it is fairly stable in things like alcohol. You might have better luck with a composite mold with glass on the top and bottom, and silicone walls. The lens blanks we use are injection molded against precision ground glass, and then we surface the RX on the back (so every lens basically begins its life as a hockey puck). Most eyewear is made with plastics, and surface roughness and haziness is reduced with some fine polishing using aluminum hydroxide, and the varnish anti-scratch coatings cover up the rest. I wonder if you could replicate a hardcoat being spun on, though we use very high RPM's to avoid pitting. Just keep in mind that the refractive index of that epoxy must be awful even compared to the cheapo plastic CR-39 lenses, but it might actually be a step above acrylic lenses like the ones you might find with some magnifying glasses.
@Mike-jv6il
@Mike-jv6il 2 роки тому
@@eapellow9767 👍 this is a pretty ambitious project for home gamer, some other mentions, the backside of the lens is ground with a domed tool made aluminum with about 600 to 800 grit paper stuck to it. constant flow of water. then a polishing process, which I'm gonna skip commenting on to mention. I agree coating the lens if done correctly will improve the optical quality there is spin coating and dip coating.. after a suitable "hard coatimg" try and do an anti reflective coating with the sputter process. and hydrophobic coating to protect it.. again part of those process has multiple issue to contend with but being the 2nd guy I've seen on UKposts sputter coating in the garage and I worked in an optical lab for years i seen alot of equipment. and I know labs use them but I had never seen one (sputter coater), until UKposts. that's awesome
@berntolovhellstrom8891
@berntolovhellstrom8891 2 роки тому
I am not going to make any lenses today but i definitely learned a lot! Brilliant video!!
@dee5556
@dee5556 2 роки тому
It seems like dropping a glass backer on the freshly poured silicon would be a good combo as silicon likes to bond to glass. Also using much thinner silicon pour would reduce flexing with that technique. 3D printed mold walls with surface features to give a mechanical bond to the silicon would also aid in making a more robust mold block along with the glass backer. Assembly and injection features can also be added easily to the 3D printed mold wall. Thanks for sharing your work with us.
@jimmimak
@jimmimak 2 роки тому
This is great information, thanks for sharing! I would add that you can use acrylic resins and optically clear silicone to make lenses. Be careful not to buy acrylic that contains mercury - it's often used in cheaper products to make it clear, and it's toxic when liquid. The refractive index of plastic tends to be lower than glass, so expect the lens power to be different from the glass original. To get around the thickness problem, you could try moulding thin layers of epoxy in an open mould to gradually build up thickness. Then when the lens is almost reaching the other half of the mould, put the lid on and do the final surface with it closed as you would normally. To get rid of bubbles, you can put the entire mould inside a vacuum chamber or use a machine to vibrate the gas bubbles out.
@manyirons
@manyirons 2 роки тому
Since silicone bonds to glass, why not use a glass plate as a backer when you're casting the upper half of the mold? Then it would support against sag when casting the lens.
@Gunbudder
@Gunbudder 2 роки тому
you should try the rotating mold method for creating large parabolic mirrors. observatory mirrors are sometimes made this way. they just have a huge plate that rotates at a fixed rate and they pour molten glass on it. the glass naturally forms a perfect parabola from the rotation, and hardens.
@ARVash
@ARVash 2 роки тому
seems like glass would be a good backing material since it bonds to it, and it can be pretty rigid
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Hah, yeah I think so! Didn't think of that at all, but dropping a piece of plate glass or similar on top (or even chopped fibers into the silicone) would probably stiffen it up nicely. Will keep that in mind for future projects!
@MaterialsSci
@MaterialsSci 2 роки тому
Hey! Great video! I'm glad you liked the metal coating for mold release trick from the micro lenses video!
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
🤗
@naasking
@naasking Рік тому
Great breakdown. Since silicone adheres to glass, you should use a thick glass surface as a backing on your molds so they hold their shape without sagging. Glass can be pretty stiff so much better than nothing.
@jmi967
@jmi967 7 місяців тому
For those who don't have the equipment for chemical vapor deposition, Tollen's Reagent can be used to silver the mirror using a chemical bath.
@benjaminroman6646
@benjaminroman6646 2 роки тому
Wow I've been looking for this kind of video for about a year. I'm trying to figure out a way to make a cheap spherical mirror with a good optical quality out of epoxy. Haven't started yet but this video will be a goldmine for this project (and I'm hyped for the one about mirrors obviously). One particular detail that catched my eye is the bubble defect at 10:20. Did you noticed how sharp the reflexion are on the bubble spot? Maybe using bubbles can solve multiple problems like: having multiple steps using silicone molds that introduce imperfections or getting a perfect spherical surface since the constraint from a gaz is usually uniform. Unfortunately I think bubbles will obviously be very sensitive to themral shrinking gaz will expand due to the epoxy warming up so it might be difficult to control but this is a nice track to keep in mind.
@user-tk1lf5hi6f
@user-tk1lf5hi6f 2 роки тому
Your videos are inspiring. Thanks for doing what you do.
@brucewilliams6292
@brucewilliams6292 2 роки тому
I really appreciate your videos! It is neat to see what can be done at home.
@jaysprenkle1026
@jaysprenkle1026 2 роки тому
Thanks for sharing. When I saw the first 3d printers I was instantly interested in making eye glasses. You can get the shape, but the surface roughness is far from nano-meter smooth
@alexandrevaliquette3883
@alexandrevaliquette3883 4 місяці тому
I'm so jealous of you on so many levels!!! Thumbs up from Montréal!
@OnreinKalfje
@OnreinKalfje 2 роки тому
Thank you, I needed this. Can't wait for the mirror video. I've been experimenting myself with different chromium paints, but it just doesn't reflect enough. Seems I need to build a sputtering machine
@MongrelShark
@MongrelShark 2 роки тому
Have you tried detergent in water as a mold release for silicone? I've used it diluted a few hundred to one in water. spray on lightly with a plant misting sprayer and let dry before molding. It might not be good enough for your lenses, but its way better than that commercial stuff you used. I've used it to get very gloss surfaces with ogoo molding. As well as the go to thing to stop silicone products sticking to things in building industry caulking. In Caulking you can also use it on your finger to get a really smooth fillet and skin the silicone in one go. Alcohol also works in a similar way but its not great for mold release due to evaporating too fast.
@PJeBenn
@PJeBenn 2 роки тому
Great video, I might have to try this. Have you thought about resin curing speed? I'm thinking some of the really slow curing resins might produce less internal stress.
@oliverjohnsonuk
@oliverjohnsonuk 2 роки тому
Love your content mate. Would be interesting to hear what you do in your day job and how you got started!
@stefanmayer444
@stefanmayer444 2 роки тому
There are "Solar cigarette lighters" made out of metalized plastics to light your cigarette in the sun. They aren't too bad optically and quite cheap. I tried to make a little spotlight out of one and it worked out great.
@KarlMiller
@KarlMiller Рік тому
I spent some time on a DIY digital microscope and was wondering about improving the ratio of field of view to magnification on top of easily available arducam sensors, so this was very informative. Great organization to the video - you walked me through all the factors effecting the end result quality with attention to alternative materials and processes as well as your decision making process. Outstanding. I hope to make a DIY system to reliably create the lense profile in a diy shop. Thanks for the finishing details on the CNC process. Why did you give up on the injection process?
@DasIllu
@DasIllu Рік тому
As for the mold release. Have you considered spin coating? I know i show up late to the game. But i figured this might do in future projects. Also, a mold release per se has only the job of preventing the two parts forming any kind of bond. So maybe the commercial mold releases are not the best choice. An (to the processes involved) inert liquide with adequate viscosity and surface adhesion might do the trick.
@supergiantbubbles
@supergiantbubbles 2 роки тому
This is great. Looking forward to your next video about mirrors. Do you have an end use for the mirrors? A telescope could be a really cool use for direct carbon fiber molding technique.
@curtisb4333
@curtisb4333 2 роки тому
I too am excited about your next mirror episode ... As I have a 50 year old telescope to remirror
@TestSpaceMonkey
@TestSpaceMonkey 2 роки тому
I was similarly curious about telescope mirrors but more for making a high-zoom compact monocular based off something like this: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/gKionHmkhm9htoU.html
@DudleyToolwright
@DudleyToolwright 2 роки тому
Absolutely fascinating discussion. Thanks.
@DC_DC_DC_DC
@DC_DC_DC_DC 2 роки тому
Eyyy
@venkir1408
@venkir1408 2 роки тому
Very much in detail , wow. I accidently landed but loved it and subscribed.
@rich1051414
@rich1051414 9 місяців тому
There may be an issue with temperature with the larger lenses. Looks like they may have overheated a bit, which causes a wavey and hazy look to the resin. The solution would be a slower curing resin that tolerates deep pours more, but that further increases cure time.
@talktoyourself
@talktoyourself 4 місяці тому
Absolutely awesome research! Thank you very much for sharing, i would be very interested in the mirror project as well! Keep up the high quality experiments! Not very common on youtube
@salihergun5875
@salihergun5875 2 місяці тому
your work is legendary. continue to your successes
@lucasvignolireis8181
@lucasvignolireis8181 2 роки тому
That's really interesting! I wonder if after it's ready you could place it in a turntable, with one of the faces up, and then pour some epoxy over it, so the resin will flow all through the surface and the gravity+ centrifugal force will smooth out the kinks
@Chriss120
@Chriss120 2 роки тому
i think you and ben would make a unstoppable youtube combo.
@lumotroph
@lumotroph 2 роки тому
Bloody fantastic. Thanks for doing this
@a_s_mikael
@a_s_mikael 2 роки тому
Hi sir, To make a very thick convex lens, use old incandescent bulbs for the epoxy mold. Of course, since I did not have epoxy, I filled the inside with distilled water and filled the its hole with hot glue and closed it, but the outside of the bulb glass bubble is slightly grooved and does not fit well with lens water alone, but I am sure it will become a strong spherical lens with epoxy. You can even split old light bulbs into two pieces, each of which becomes a mold to make a convex lens (flat on one side and convex on the other).
@Athiril
@Athiril 2 роки тому
I’ve sanded and polished resin, worked quite well. Plastic is harder to sand and polish but not impossible, just more effort and time, if it’s spun on a machine, makes it easy. If it’s spun be could fire polished like glass fire polishing.
@greatnate29
@greatnate29 2 роки тому
Maybe you could purposefully add a lot of internal stress to the lenses to make a Gradient-index lense. They use an optical density gradient rather than normal refraction, so you might not need to worry about surface quality as much? Idk. It might work especially well because you are already working with epoxies and I think you can use a uv resin and cure different parts at different speeds. It might also be extremely hard to do, but could be a fun project.
@h.n.4060
@h.n.4060 15 днів тому
Something I've learned long ago when it comes to cheap optics is that it's usually better to find cheaper ways to makes optics out of good materials than cheap way to makes optics out of cheap materials. There's really not a good substitute for glass, both with mirrors and lenses. What should be done instead is finding a way to build or replace glass making machines that cost less but that delivers good performance.
@sublucid
@sublucid 2 роки тому
Consider using Rustoleum Mirror Paint as the mold release for the resin; the paint will make a first surface mirror against the silicone, but bond to the resin when you pull it out. I think this will work because the mirror paint makes a striking second surface mirror when applied to the inside of glass. I just don’t know if you want the paint wet or dry before pouring the epoxy in…
@Wtfinc
@Wtfinc Рік тому
To Stiffen Molds -Paint back of mold with a thin layer of silicone an lay on a piece of glass, let cure. /or/ -Use rat wire fencing laid on the back of the mold and paint it on with more silicone, let cure. This should stiffen it up real nice like. +chicken wire has ~3x3cm hexagons (very flexible) +rabbit wire has ~10x20cm rectangles (very stiff but big) +rat wire has 1x1cm squares (very nice) I recommend a mesh type material rather than a solid flat sheet since the silicone wont stick to many things other than itself or glass as stated in the video.
@OriginalMorningStar
@OriginalMorningStar 2 роки тому
I managed to get limited success making lenses from epoxy without moulds or existing templates. I used a ring of plastic to hold the epoxy, sealed on the bottom with clingfilm stretched tight. To make a convex lens, add a thick layer of epoxy, seal the top and inject air or epoxy to bow the clingfilm out. Concave lenses, the air or epoxy is removed. I also had limited success injecting epoxy between two sheets of clingfilm to make both sides convex and concave, but gravity distorts them and the lower surface is always more convex than the upper. The only downsides are that they arent hugely accurate, and the clingfilm surfaces are delicate. But they work well for visual magnification, and the magnification can be tuned while injecting or removing the epoxy. Nice video, very informative. I didnt know silicone could hold an optical surface, thought it was a bit grainy...
@VincentGroenewold
@VincentGroenewold 2 роки тому
Oehhh, instant like. I was waiting for it since your Twitter message. So love this channel. :)
@warrenarnold
@warrenarnold 8 місяців тому
such a great channel underrated, thank you for your informative video
@apricotcomputers3943
@apricotcomputers3943 9 місяців тому
❤❤❤ thanks for making this. Very intimidating!😅
@Franptilien
@Franptilien 2 роки тому
Incredible work as always !
@badsamaritan8223
@badsamaritan8223 8 місяців тому
could you use heat, to partially liquefy the surface of the lens, to get a smooth, clear surface?
@jonludwig8233
@jonludwig8233 2 роки тому
I wonder if polymers can be tempered like glass is to reduce the internal stresses. Another idea that comes to mind would be to use some form of solvent polishing to post process the optical surface. Or perhaps heat can be used to flow the material after curing. Judging by the surface roughness of the bubble that you showed as a defect, you could achieve way better surface finish if you could find a way to refine the surface...
@RooMan93
@RooMan93 2 роки тому
I remember the good ol days when we didn't have no e-bikes or e-mail we certainly didn't have any fancy e-poxy. Great vid
@ian6083
@ian6083 2 роки тому
Amazing information! Thank you for your great videos!
@Beanpapac15
@Beanpapac15 2 роки тому
Super stoked for the carbon fiber mirror video
@dreamerartworx
@dreamerartworx 4 місяці тому
@7:50 YES you can polish plastic as good as you can polish glass! You just need to use finer grit paper or less abbrasive materials and also you get the best result if you do wet sanding and then wet polish with VERY high grit sandpaper and oil or water. I do it myself so YES you can!
@andax2007
@andax2007 2 роки тому
After seeing your video on atomically flat surfaces I got an idea to bring this together with the molding of lenses. Assume you use a thin mica sheet as the defining surface in your molding process. You could then get an extremely flat surface. Hopefully the mica sheet is flexible enough to allow some radius of curvature (think of those adaptive mirrors which is deformed deliberately). Mica might need a sputtering step in case it sticks to the epoxy. Viable?
@thomassutrina7469
@thomassutrina7469 2 роки тому
Silicone rubber is used for making statues that are big. The silicone rubber is supported by cast plaster usually after the statue is coated with rubber. Typically like a mask of a face is made. So the surface has a lot of features that the plaster can hold the shape of the rubber. So the plaster casting is removed from the rubber and then the rubber from the cast part. plaster can have cooling tubing. Actually you do not want a high thermal conductor if you can keep the heat generated by the epoxy or low. Even thick parts will tend to have uniform temperature epoxy. To plan the cooling add up the thermal conductivity of the epoxy at a tangent to the surface to the center. Add the thermal resistance of the silicone for it's thickness and then the plaster to the cooling.
@nickblacksoul4318
@nickblacksoul4318 2 роки тому
Off course you can we used to do it all the time we need to put samples in epoxy for the microscope , we polished them to perfection with diamond paste
@BreakingTaps
@BreakingTaps 2 роки тому
Lapping something flat is a lot easier than trying to grind and polish a 3D profile (even simple ones like spherical profiles). Not saying it's impossible, just that it's considerably harder than with glass 🙂
@avo5499
@avo5499 2 роки тому
Just found this channel, its gold!
@alexlo7708
@alexlo7708 2 роки тому
Full of technical knowledge.
@MacM545
@MacM545 2 роки тому
Very neat idea and nice information! You might be able to make complex lenses that don't currently exist.
@griffith500tvr
@griffith500tvr 10 місяців тому
I wonder whether you would get a better result if you use very slow curing and shake the mold at a high frequency for a while to get rid of the internal stresses
@pandit7130
@pandit7130 2 роки тому
I guess you can avoid the silicon moulding step and create your own mould by sticking some kind stretchy plastic film (like food wrap) over a container. Then introduce partial vacuum into the container. As a result you will get a concave plastic mould with a smooth surface. And the curvature of the mould can be controlled by controlling the pressure inside the container. With two of these you can get a whole mould in which you can inject the epoxy (if aligned correctly) . You can use small to medium quantity of epoxy in this short of mould as if you use a big amount of epoxy the shape of the plastic film might get distorted due to it's weight. And I assume the plastic should also come out easily. It's worth giving a try.
@supernovalabs
@supernovalabs 2 роки тому
Have you tried freezing your plastics before you lap or grind them? IDK if the improvements in grinding may be offset by the thermal deformation but maybe worth a shot
@TheRealJerseyJoe
@TheRealJerseyJoe Рік тому
Super interesting, thanks for sharing !
@AwestrikeFearofGods
@AwestrikeFearofGods 7 місяців тому
16:11 Before anyone throws epoxy parts in an oven, pre-cure for at least an hour at room temperature, until it seems the epoxy is no longer producing much internal heat. This will minimize the risk of a toxic, smoky oven fire from exotherm. However, take care not to disturb the part with physical stress during movement. The epoxy will be most susceptible to damage that irreversibly weakens it when mostly (but not fully) cured.
@copisetic1104
@copisetic1104 7 місяців тому
Use acetone vapor polishing or flame polishing, flame polishing is an art.
@tripives1858
@tripives1858 2 роки тому
Potential solution... If you take two of the exact same lens, thus, when facing each other, you have both the front and back of the lens with an airgap of any preferred distance. Encase the airgap with whatever material you may like, and fill the gap with epoxy via a syringe. A potential problem with this method would be the degree of adhesion between the selected epoxy and the glass, and if that would require the use of mold release (which we already know causes issues). Just a thought. Thank you for the great video!
@ThomasAndersonbsf
@ThomasAndersonbsf 2 роки тому
long video is long so not sure if you are going to cover it but seems like the lenses you have could be used if coated properly to release the item, to make the opposing surface too, like having a .2 diopler of one direction and ending up with a cast lens that is a -.2 diopler lens if that is the appropriate measurement terms if not basically using a convex lens surface to get a concave lens that matches it exactly in a negative aspect. reason this thought came to me is that some times having the exact opposite of the former is needed for proper light alignment like making a true spot light out of a normal lamp, (seems like coating after too makes a good reflection surface XD
@DrAjASK
@DrAjASK Рік тому
Hello, do You think it would be possible to mold very fine fresnel lenses this way? Would the silicon mold and final resin cast detailed enough to behave like a fresnel lens?
@msmith2961
@msmith2961 2 роки тому
I was reading an article yesterday about some guys making lenses using UV cure polymer floating in a suspension of equal density fluid. Having it suspended in fluid counteracted the flattening effect that gravity has on fluid over a certain volume. Wonder if you'd try that technique out and compare.
@user-kl6zg2cg1z
@user-kl6zg2cg1z 6 місяців тому
Hi. I would like to know more about the cf mirrors. Could you tell us about how it is going? And what is that grey stuff you spread over the glass?
@rjkirkland8659
@rjkirkland8659 8 місяців тому
Is there a problem using flame or heat polishing for dealing with fine mechanical roughness in the plastic lens?
@richwest2929
@richwest2929 2 роки тому
I wonder if a quality "wrap" or tinting film material could act as a release agent. Not sure of its optical quality, but could easily conform to the lens surface with some heat. Appreciate the shared experiments...
@askquestionstrythings
@askquestionstrythings 2 роки тому
Thanks for sharing.
@IllNacs
@IllNacs 2 роки тому
You've obviously never seen the amazingly polished things people make outta epoxy resin on UKposts, id say its not hard at all to polish, but maybe there's something i don't know about it seeing as I've only ever watched.
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