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I had a jug of muriatic acid that I had just opened to do a project with inside of my garage. It was a beautiful 1930 Model A two door sedan with great paint and really no body work necessary. I got called away for an emergency that took me out of town for a couple of days. I had pushed the jug beneath a bench to keep it away from any child or such knocking it over, but I totally forgot to check the cap to the jug. When I returned home a few days later, the smell inside the garage was awful and virtually anything not painted on that car was rusted completely. Things on the dash, the underbelly and anywhere at all you could imagine. Boy, did I ever cry when that happened. It was one expensive mistake, so if you use muriatic acid, be sure to seal it tightly as it will get into the atmosphere as you said, and you will not believe the damage it can do to everything on the car, but inside the garage where anything of metal will be attacked, as well. Our water heater was out in the garage, and it too took a hit on metal parts due to my ignorance at that time. Be overly cautious in using it is just not enough of a warning once you flub up as I did with the stuff. ;-(

So fantastic and humbling to see people still taking trades work so seriously and learning and proving their skills. We need more of this in the world .

Muriatic acid called hydrochloric acid will attack the base metal if left long enough. It is recommended to wear solid rubber gloves and eye protection. Diluting the acid may involve using gas resperator as it fumes chlorine gas .I'm an Industrial chemist.

Happy to have found you. Just looking to remove bits of rust from a metal railing around my porch so I can paint it. Now I know more about products and application. I'm fascinated with your work. Thank you.

Just a pro tip... I use those pad you put on the floor for aminal mistakes, they are cotton backed with plastic... you soak the pad and it forms to the shape of the metal you are working on, the plastic keeps it wet....works great, almost like it was made for it

Thanks for the tips , I've used Ospho for years but you changed the way I will do things , thanks so much I restore old VWs and loved the piece about that young man's little vw project, I would sure love to have that

Muriatic Acid comes in different strengths. I like the 31.45% HASA from the local Pool Supplier. Must to do out doors and stay up-wind. A simple cheap paint brush is all you need. No need for abrasives or rubbing at all. Just brush it on, keep it wet and in 5 mins the rust will disappear before your eyes. Brand new metal to be had. Speaking of eyes, goggles a must! Couldn't imagine getting that in the eye. You MUST neutralize the acid. Prep a sprayer with Baking Soda and water and spray the acid. Muriatic acid reacts with baking soda to form table salt (NaCl), carbon dioxide gas (CO2), and water (H2O). It appears as a foam. After neutralizing hose it all off and dry quickly to prevent flash rusting, It's fast and easy. I just did an entire front-clip. Great results.

Glad you mentioned the baking soda. It makes a.big difference followed by quick drying. Good video thank you

I think you've triggered a flashback... I agreed to paint a friends '67 E-Type. He was so very proud of having already stripped it with paint remover (destroying all of the rubber in the process) and putting it under a cover, outside, a couple of years prior. Many gallons of muriatic later, with lots of elbow grease, we had a finish that took best in show in Phoenix.

I bought a case of Naval Jelly on your recommendation and it amazes me. I’ll be working on paint stripping one area and have Naval Jelly working on the rust in another and after the second application I look over and the rust is gone.

Great video as always. I plan to attend one of your classes as I'm restoring a 84 Caprice Coupe. With a wife and kids it's hard to find the time! Keep the great videos coming! Raynham, Ma.

Thanks for showing the comparison of how the different products work.

I like that phospheric leaves a coating so you don't get instant flash rusting, but muriatic is often way quicker but you just need to remember to neutralize it and wash it off and oil the part.

Great job Thank you for sharing your knowledge what a talent. This is becoming a lost art. Keep up the great content.

Wowser, that is the sound of my mind exploding. Rust 911 is the sheet alright. Nicely done, I am thrilled that I found your channel. I look forward to watching many more episodes in my spare time. Great work. TY so much for creating and sharing your knowledge and experience.

You are absolutely correct about media blasters and the damage they can do. You are spot on with the "cover the area with plastic for extending the acting properties of the chemicals for stripping, as you are with safety (running water, gloves, etc.). Perhaps you are my lost younger brother...we think alike in many ways, although I am retired. It is fun and rewarding to watch your videos and your sincere intent on passing artist-craftsman values to others.

Great stuff! As a silversmith I call muriatic acid (hydrochloric) a cold pickle for copper alloys and it removes steel mill scale from hot rolled.

Muriatic acid is really dangerous to the skin, lungs, and any exposed metal, but it's also really fast and really cheap.The baking soda immediately after muriatic acid exposure is a must, because flash rust will happen very quickly, otherwise.

To neutralize acid, you've got to use a base. Baking soda is a base, but Amonium Hydroxide is much better (fancy name for Ammonia and water). Rinse, dry, and coat with a water displacer (WD-40 or equivalent). Also, muriatic is cheaper if you skip the paint department, and go to the swimming pool care section of the hardware store. Muriatic also cleans concrete, but be careful.

Phosphoric acid is my go to. I use 80 or 90% i cant remember but i prefer it because it leaves a protective film on the steel.

Thanks for another great video Wray. The work you do is just amazing.Simon.

Thanks for showing us the Caddy Wray that is going to be a nice ride for sure

Oh don't go on about your beautiful, perfect weather up there in beautiful Massachusetts! I'm down here in steamy Hotlanta, changing into my air-conditioned scuba gear so I can walk/swim out to check the mailbox. 😂 It's so hot and humid here, everything wants to either rot or rust away. Last night I dropped a pencil on the back porch. I figured I'd retrieve it in the morning once it's light outside. But this morning all I could find is a handful of compost with a pencil lead sticking out of it. We don't need doors on cars and buildings here, just need 'ports' to pour ourselves into. Have a great day up there Buddy! Keep up the great work. Love your tips and tricks, and Jason's vw (notice the lower case 😆) Thank you for posting your content. Seeing these projects is inspiring, and often has me questioning my impulse to make carbon composite parts (a well formed sheet of aluminum is so much lighter).

What an amazing video - congratulations to you and your shop of perseverance - a dedication to rust and form.

That sprinkler method is really slick. I like it

50/50 molasses and water soak works great too. You lose no metal. Love your video! Thanks for all you teach!

I used Rust 911 to derust the water jackets on a couple Ford Flathead blocks. Capped off the water pump and set the deck up level one bank at a time. Let it soak about 48 hours and flushed it out. Did an amazing job! Got the idea from your videos.

I just discovered you, thanks for being here and making this! I miss Click and Clack and your voice reminds me of them. Thanks for bringing back those memories, you have a new subscriber.

Hi Wray, John from Oz here. Molasses dips work great too. They just take a fortnight or so. Very environmental in that you can tip the tank on the lawn when finished with it!

Ray, much thanks for sharing your expert knowledge. I must add that VINEGAR works miraculously well on CAST IRON. I have an ancient cast iron waffle iron from the 1600’s - 1700’s and upon applying VINEGAR to its heavily rusted exterior, the VINEGAR had a major reaction with the RUST. It left a heavy crust like precipitation that actually served as an armored shield to prevent any further rusting. I was amazed to discover that after 8 years the crusty precipitate comes and bare clean cast iron is underneath it.😃

Thank uou sir, looking forward on my 37 Dodge Coupe floor, foot rest panel etc.

I am so fascinated by this. It's transformational.

I've been working on my 66 Barracuda, thank you I' learned some stuff here :) Been dreading the idea of getting the rust out of the inside of the car, that would be perfect. I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the project, I think the Rust911 will help a lot. I didn't want to just leave it but also baller on a budget :D

Excellent video thanks Wray.

Muriatic Acid is also used to clean mortar from; brick, block, rock, tile, etc. One can neutralize the affects of the acid by using, a Baking Soda mix in water, or even just sprinkle the baking soda over the area or acid.

Awesome information I have only just found your chanle, those car's your building are looking good,all the best to you and your loved ones

Thanks for the knowledge!

I learned a lot. Thank you!

You don't have to neutralize phosphoric acid. It only reacts with the rust, not the bare metal. Coating with a diluted mixture is even a preservation method. Look up Ospho, original/namebrand with a bit more extensive how-to.

Very good video. I learned a lot . Thank You, Ronnie.

There are also auto dippers which can dip frames and full bodies. I've used them several times and is a great way to do a full restoration. Great video.

Glad Mark is back. Thanks Wray!

that Rust 911 is some nice stuff! I'll have to try it on my '71 Plymouth Fury I'm restoring

Bonjour, je regarde souvent vos vidéos et je trouve que vous faite du très beaux travail. Je vous remercie de partager vos connaissances avec nous.

It's nice to see a comparison of rust removers.

I love the fact that your teaching the next generation i guess you can say thats one of the reasons im teaching myself about cars because ablot of general contractors dont teach a lot of the time because they feel someone will steal their job and when someone is willing it slows down the job a lil bit but then bosses snap

man am i glad i clicked on this video, i've only got 1/2 gal of prep and etch left only the label had come off the bottle a long time ago and i couldn't remember the name of the stuff, now i just hope i can still get it here in the people's republic of california ..... thanks

I can't even tell you how grateful I am this is such an amazing video thank you so very much you are an amazing individual with awesome Talent God bless you you are a godsend

Excellent video and info, GOD bless.

Stumbled on your channel, I have been looking for this type of rust removal, what's the ratio on the baking soda and water? How do you neutralize the acid, thanks, great video.

I'm close.to you, here in Hampton , NH ,I've done a woodcarving of Benoit Musy driving a Maserati 300S , fantastic curves to carve!

Wonderful initiative to train the next generation, all the best.

Great video! I am thankful for artists keeping the techniques alive! Thank you for teaching the next generation!

Gee wray the rust removal on the Caddy did an amazing job compared to when you started, that process works a treat great work mate.

I have Muriatic acid. That’s great to know that it works great for rust. I just need to make sure to stray my item down with a baking soda solution and then wash it all alway maybe with soap and water…? It would’ve been great for you to spend some more time on that part. But I’ll look into it further thanks!

What great work all around... very informative,

I'd so love to come to your shop classes

Great mention regarding any damage to project material! A bit difficult to observe without a ballsy camera operator!

Great information thank you.👍

I was thinking about doing the Rust 911 process for the undercarriage but using an inflatable pool instead. Drive the car on top, inflate the pool and now its all self contained.

Nice. I wasn't aware of muriatic acid for rust removal but I've played with lots of other methods. I see you're also having trouble with those ZEP sprayers. They just don't last long, even with water.

I think it's interesting how acids are categorized as corrosives yet they remove the corrosion. However I've seen muriatic acid remove rust and if left for too long will simply dissolve the steel away. Of course there is also soda blasting.

Great video. Thanks for sharing this. God Bless.

If you use muriatic the warmer it is the better it works. I made pizza steel using HDX from home depot and a plastic tote. It will remove mill scale from plate steel quick. If you circulate the fluid it takes less time.

Jason's killing it on the beetle. Talented guy 👍

Dry Ice blasting also can work wonders if you have a shop near you that can do it.

I restore old rusty tools using 'cleaning vinegar'. I just leave them covered in a plastic container for a few days and then wash off the crusted rust that floats to the surface and then wash off this black film that forms on the tools with soapy water, and then either paint them or oil them. Works well and is really cheap. I'm not sure how well it would work on cars unless you had a vat or something.

Excellent demonstration! I remember ruining parts I left in Navel Jelly. So it gets rinsed off soon. Do you actually have to wait that long between applications of 9-11?

I just stripped 4 layers of paint on my 69 Elco , with CITRA STRIP...check it out. Safe and does not burn or smell. Also...when down to bare metal...I used EASTWOOD FAST ETCH. Now this you need ventilation. The car stayed bare metal for 4 months, before going to paint. It stayed rust free...no rust flashing. You do however, need to follow wiping off Fast Etch, before primer. CHECK BOTH OF THESE OUT. GREAT PRODUCTS....

Love watching your videos. Originally from Worcester, I now reside in NV. Trying to restore a 63 Corvair convertible, do you have any instructions for making beltline trim?

I found that the Loctite Extend in the liquid industrial bottle works great

brilliant video as always

There's another method of rust removal that I didn't see mentioned here. Electrolysis. It leaves metal looking much the same way the Rust911 does. Zero chemicals involved.

Thanks Wray

some good info. thanks

Hi Wray . I seen the cadi video when you first posted it , I’m in Australia and can’t seem to get rust 911 here , they won’t send it and can’t get it from your Amazon store either so what next well molasses , first I soaked some parts .. amazing results in 2 weeks, then proceeded to do a car exactly the same as you did on my hoist but with molasses, got really good results ,heavily rusted sections get attacked tho and you start to loose the panel information so I’ve stopped for now the smell is bit awful but you can live with it , molasses also attacks alloy pretty much dissolves it. Also permatex do a very similar product to the navel jelly called rust dissolver and it works great . Tried this cause importing navel jelly isn’t that cost effective. Anyway if there is some way I can buy a box of rust 11 and get it sent here I’m in. Another note with molasses is you need put phosphoric acid 10.1 mix over the metal ASAP when dried as it flash fairly quickly , molasses isn’t that quick either takes time to work 6 weeks to do my front end Question does the rust 911 solution evaporate quickly when you were using open to the atmosphere, molasses needs a lot attention, when the reaction starts in the sprinkler setup it seems to use a lot of solution but not when you use it in a drum and as a soaking solution . Molasses is really cheap tho Thanks for the tips too

Acid Magic by Certol, is a very safe full strength Muriatic Buffered Acid. Won't harm skin, but just as effective as the regular stuff!

Great vid, really informative, I think you must be the rust King!!

The phosphoric acid is the best since it won't eat in to the metal, and muriatic is hydrochloric acid (HCL) and chlorine is corrosive. Better option is to brush on phosphoric acid, cover with plastic, and wipe after about 15 minutes. The other advantage of phosphoric acid, is that creates a rust resistant barrier that protects the metal and also preps the metal for paint. Phosphoric acid is a wonder compound in my opinion. I use it all the time, even as a degreaser on metal and for paint prep on non rusted metal surfaces.

Cool. That rust 911 is impressive. Spraying this car would cost a little more then a sand blaster but in the long run much cheaper this way. Very cool idea

Thank you! I'm waiting for new videos.

I knew Wray Schelin from United Chevrolet 1979 - He'd compliment a woman by saying she looked "devastating". His yard full of misc treasure. (I remember blue wooden racks from a rack body truck) He'd say ''I'll give you a dollar - to make it legal". Good guy - Nice memories !

Great Video. So I am a little confused. If I apply Ospho on metal and let it dry, will that causes metal to rush or prevent it from rusting for a while? I have heard once you take the paint off and get to the bare metal, you can apply Ospho and it will prevent if from rusting for a while. Also, does the fume from Ospho causes everything to tart rusting in the garage or that is not the nature of Phosphoric acid?

Make it custom put me onto you Wray , love the channel , I feel some binge watching catch up coming ,cheers

I noticed you using steel wool what grade is it? and is there any other scrubbing materials (Have the scotch bight)?

Awesome info really appreciate it

Have you ever tried citric acid? Granules mixed with water...soak submerged. Works great.

Just a tip to anybody that uses the muriatic acid. Wear protection. If you add water to the muriatic it can react aggressively. I use it to clean out rust plugged drain pipes. I do add hot water to get it going faster, but it will fume up with cold water also. I use it to clean rust off of concrete also.

Hi Wray, what attachment are you using between the spindle and the shrinking disc backing plate on your makita? Bending the radius and dent repair video

It looks like you have a lot started but is anything moving out or finished. It almost seems like your students coming through are doing all the work. Brilliant.

Some real FABULOUS FAB WRK HERE!!

What would put on it to stop the rust from coming back, without painting it right away? Thanks for the great information 👍

Off to try some Rust911 on my Project 1962 C10 truck! Thanks!

I’ve use Ospho in the glass gal jug, now plastic for over 50 years on oilfield equipment, holds the paint on.

Hi Wray. I couldn’t find any phosphoric acid rust removers locally. I have a few motorcycle gas tanks to de rust the inside of. I ended up using several bottles of cheap toilet bowl cleaner, worked great. If anyone doesn’t know about Wray’s metal shaping classes you should sign up, he’s probably going to retire in his early hundreds.

Excuse my bad English, i am french. I have a rolling mill roller that should be inox. It is stained with small rust points, and i would like to restore it, because i am afraid to make croissants with it. I would like a treatment that will be durable and that is compatible with making food with the rolls. Do you have something to recommend?

Once the rust is off is there anything else that needs to be done before primer is sprayed on?

Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Molasses added in a big tub ( pool) with water add parts and cover it up and put it in a heated area like in the sun so it stays warm and works faster. Few weeks later you can hose off the rust off the parts you pull then re-use it again add more molasses if needed. Will look like rust juice when done (don't drink). After cleaning oil parts to keep it rust free.