The part from the race track is a engine secondary balancer used to eliminate the secondary engine vibration, usualy its 1 or 2 of them spining at 2x engine rpm.

3 things: 1- the parts from the race track are balance shafts from an engine 2- Evap-o-Rust works much better than CLR, it isn't harmful to good paint and plastics, it is reusable, and it's environmentally friendly. I have used that stuff a bit and LOVE it! 3- the LASER system is thermal ablative LASER system. I have worked with this system in my previous role at work. It requires a specific focal length of the lens for the application it is being used on, hence why it didn't do as well with the paint as it truly can in this demonstration. With the correct lens on it, it is possible to take off individual layers of paint if you want. It REALLY should have an evacuation system on it for the fumes.

This honestly made me want to look into purchasing an ultrasonic parts cleaner. Being able to completely set and "forget" for 10 minutes for rust removal sounds amazing.

I LOVE Jeremiah & Zach team up videos. Y'all are goofy and hilarious. Keep 'em coming!

Tool party has RAPIDLY become my favorite shows Donut makes, Zach and Jeremiah have so much chemistry on camera it’s insane, Zach for sure my favorite donut member, but Jeremiah is just too funny

Boiling rusty tools is an option, too. That process is called bluing and it creates a black oxide finish that further protects from rust. Not sure how effective it would be, but I think it would have been something that would have been cool to cover in this video

I agree with the round 2 suggestion - rust removal with all the other techniques! The practical side of your videos is great. Thank you.

Glad you discussed responsible disposal of chemical waste. Also, glad that you did wear respirators and safety glasses (I noticed that the pre-filter was missing on respirators, and I had some concerns regarding sandblasting booth safety and chemical exposure). Can't stress it enough, breathing is important and protecting your vision is also extremely important...traumatic eye injuries...horrible. Love the video; very informative. Thanks for answering many questions I had about removing rust. Stay safe.

A couple things from years of diy experience, low budget info from the days I was rebuilding 1950’s lathes and tons of other diy projects: So first, I don’t feel abrasion got the attention it could have, being one of my favorite methods actually. Wire brushes suck but works where you need them, wire cups in a drill, only really good for inside corners but it has its place. The big one that wasn’t included in the video, a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Big ole 8-12” wire wheel on a well balanced, strong bench grinder and very importantly, some good impact safety glasses will have you wishing you would’ve found it years ago. You can do large items to your hearts content. If you do smaller stuff like bolts or nuts, I suggest vice grips to hold em and careful of your surroundings because you can send em flyin! Second: chemical category.. so clr has its place, but there are a lot of other chemicals for removing rust, most commonly you’ll find acid based removers. A few things to keep in mind if anyone is ever using chemical method, or electrolysis: first, these methods usually tend to have effects on the metal itself. You can damage the metal under the rust beyond what the rust has effected alone, they can slowly eat away the metal depending what you use, second. Be very aware that any items left exposed to the air will create horrible erosion where the water line sits. It’s because at the water/chemical line, you get the effects of both rust being removed, but also being exposed to the air it’ll flash rust and then rust remover will remove that and it creates a line where it eats into the metal and leaves a gnarly line of metal missing. One product that I highly recommend everyone at least knows about (not sponsored) is evaporust, because it’s different than most rust removing chemicals, it uses chelation to remove rust, rather than acid. Which targets ONLY the rust, which is very important if you’re trying to remove only rust and keep all parent metals in tact. This was especially important to me when restoring metal parts to my lathe in order to keep very tight tolerances and not cause more harm than good. You can look up the chelation process if you want because I feel my comment is already too long but just wanted to drop some knowledge from years of personal experience!

13:07 the bloke running the laser doesn’t seem to worry about his eyes 😂😂😂

The part you found at the track is a counterbalance weight probably for a motorcycle, I had one in my Suzuki 500.

Love these testing videos! You guys save me so much time and money! Thank you so much!

I love how the trained Laser Tech doesn’t wear his safety glasses for the Big Laser.

What I love about electrolysis is the fact it is "self-regulating" and it converts the existing metal to a stable oxide state. Also, it gets into spaces you can not with mechanical rust methods. My advice is to do it outside strictly because of the hydrogen released, better safe than sorry!

On the chemicals side, if you want a solution that costs near zero look into vinegar. Especially in your Sonic setup, the combination of the ultrasonic and the vinegar would pretty much remove any surface buildup as well as transforming the rest into that gorgeous black finish you saw a couple times which is actually rust preventative.

Great fun video. The big laser was a beast of a thing. I have used those very coarse scourer type wheels that go on a grinder and the sandpaper type flapper wheels. They work great at cleaning up metal.

I’ve always just kept a couple gallons of used oil in a bucket. Drop the rusty tool in grab it out a couple weeks to a month later depending on rust level and wipe it off. Works great!

Dude I’ve watched this show for 3years and they never disappoint with any episode they put out. Your doing amazing

Awesome video! Thank you for making this. I love how you show knowledgeable videos that help out people. You guys doing all the work . Appreciate it.

Rusty tools soaked in vinegar also works and is environmentally safe. I will say that for the more abrasive rust you can use a solution of baking soda and vinegar and a wire brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease.

Nobody ever seems to use distilled white vinegar. I use that stuff all the time and it works so well! Super cheap, safe, and environmentally friendly.

Love this show! And I don't even use tools but I've love the hosts' energy and the fact that they are helping us decide on tools

these dudes' rivalry is hilarious

This was a super cool video definitely learned alot. Cool idea for a possible high low season or something. Get 2 antique cars and laser them or use cheaper options for the low team. Whoever makes the best value restored car wins. I thought it was a cool idea. Love you guys. Never stop making videos.❤️

It's pretty cool seeing how the laser has a harder time with colors with red in them giving a visualization of the wavelength of light used

when you're sandblasting stuff it's usually a good idea to use enclosed camera instead of doing it in the open. you can recycle sand multiple times too

I have tried that Harbor Freight sandblaster on a couple of occasions. As you commented you need lots of air, a lot more than a home compressor or even small shop compressor can provide to maintain a reasonable duty cycle. Secondly, the sand has to be absolutely dry or it will cake in the siphon setup. The third problem is the abrasive action of the sand will wear through the supply tubing and nozzle tip in short order. I found that the cheap setup will fail within an hour or two of continuous use, depending on the abrasive you use. Don't expect it to be useful for any more than a one off project. I used one to clean up a shelving unit I got at a junkyard and it was completely spent. Tried to sandblast a 54 inch mover deck with another cheap unit my Dad had, and it wasn't able to finish the job before I went through the nozzle tips. At least he had a better compressor.

Electrolysis is friggin awesome. Science is so rad. I watch a lot of restoration videos that use this method, but I've always wanted to try it myself

FYI sand blasting: The dust it creates is *EXTREMELY* dangerous... if you are going to go this rout you will most DEFINITELY want a proper setup - can can cause *PERMANENT health problems* (depending on your equipment, you can use the sand multiple times, but it does get to a point that it can no longer be used - mostly around 3 to 6 times)

Tool party is easily my favorite donut series

You Guy's are the BEST Channel for Cars and Tool's. Keep on doing you'r thing. Awesome!!!!

I used CLR on a really rusted engine block when I was building a coffee table. I had to get a 25 gallon bucket but it worked so well. I was able to paint it after. But the electrolysis probably would have been better or sand blasting

You guys should test carjacks. (Just posting this before the other guy spams it on here again)

"Rust" can also be good. That plumbing wrench is actually a good example of how rust it used. The black color it had is not a paint, it was "blued". Fe2O3 is rust, and it is converted (chemically) to Fe3O4, which is iron oxide (magnetite). Very hard, even brittle, and protects the surface from rust. The conversion process is possible at home.

Loved the video, so cool to see all the different methods

My wife got an ultrasonic cleaner for her furniture refurbishing and they are awesome for removing rust on really old pieces. We never thought of putting a jar of CLR in it though. That's a great suggestion.

The $50k laser might seem out of range, unless you're a medium-to-larger entity involved in paint and fab/repair. If you're large enough that you're filling out DEQ reports every year, then you're spending thousands and thousands annually for disposing of used blast media and solvents. Far more than you paid _for_ the media and chemicals. You still need booth filters, which also require disposal and lab testing for heavy metals periodically, depending on how large of a haz waste generating site you are. But the laser starts paying for itself quickly in waste & man hours. Edit: Just realized the boys are fellow Zooz riders. I always knew they were up to no good.

If you want to use a media blaster, investing in a blasting cabinet is a good idea. It would cost more than the option used here, but I think it would still be a pretty cost effective way to remove rust and paint if it's something you need to do often.

Laser rust removal works great. I own one and have opened a small business doing so. It’s so satisfying to watch the rust just vanish in seconds. 👍🏻 I post my videos and pics, and get a great response from viewers. So cool.

I always like the wire wheel in the drill, works pretty good in my opinion

Not rust, but just for interest: brake fluid is something that removes (enamel) paint from plastic parts and leaves the plastic parts untouched - I used it to get the paint off from my painted plastic models. And it tends to undo the glueing as well - so you can do a complete rebuild. Oven cleaner can strip the chroming from plastic parts - takes a while (hours), but works great.

“We’re all just fighting entropy, Jobe.” “That’s right, we’re all oxidizing.” This got deep.

Love this channel watch your videos everyday without fail

yall are so funny and these videos are so informative. thank you :)

That part is probably a balancing shaft to counteract the vibrations from the engine. The engines from today run on less and less cilinders so that means the engine will vibrate more

11:02 that was funny and wrong at the same time haha

The cool thing about being able to record these videos is that you get the test out the tools, and then you can have them around the shop and if they are useful, then just a win-win.

it’s crazy to think how far technology has came that rust can simply be removed by a laser

FYI you got the polarity wrong when you were explaining electrolysis but you got it right in your experiment (the negative is supposed to be on item that is being derusted and the positive goes to your sacrificial metal... Electrolysis is my favorite method of removing rust. Those lasers were amazing!

Should have used evaporust, probably one of the most go to things and it's skin safe and eco friendly. I've personally used it and works fantastic.

Your mystery parts are balance shafts to cancel engine vibration. They are timed opposite of the piston and rod assembly.

A Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder is phenominal as well. Like most examples you have to keep moving though. There are limitations such as inability to access certain angles and spaces. You can also use the wheels to buff out casting marks and do some surface reshaping with the right wheel abrasion.

Another two techniques are possible. Both are used in antique restoration. 1) Steel wool or soft metal brush to remove any loose red iron oxide. Cleaning and complete degreasing and removal of all oils. Then boiling in water to convert the red iron oxide in contact with the steel to a durable black iron oxide, a passivation process similar to bluing that leaves a rust resistant surface. 2) All the rust can be removed by soaking in a citric acid and dish soap solution which will also remove bluing finishes. A video titled "Rusty Italian Rifle Restoration: 80 Years Hidden in a Wall" explains both these techniques and more.

This has become one of my favorite Donut series. These two work together really well as they hosts.

About the blasting, that glass sand is not the most abrasive sand and you used a toy setup. In industrial environment with a proper compressor it won't be any rust left in seconds and will start eating into the metal. And like other people commented, usually the blasting is done inside a closed room to recover the so called "sand" (but can be a lot of things instead of glass powder, including commonly used steel grit or balls). Also a protection gear includes a strong mask and suit to protect the user from bouncing sand, which from high speeds compressors can shred your skin in seconds including clothes, and has an air hose at the back connected to a source of breathable air. Else the surrounding air can be full of powder and if you blast something big and rusty like a big water tank it can be a a major rust cloud that you barely see through 1 meter in front of you. Definitely not good for breathing :) For those big items the work is done with very high presure and a hose resembling firefighters hose size and handling under pressure, rather than that small gun and home air compressor. Also the noise is very loud even through the noise cancelling ear plugs worn inside the helmet.

The Lazer is amazing

a way I've found to work well for at least surface rust is spraying the part in wd-40 chain wax (only thing I had laying around) let it sit for a few mins, sand it with the wax still on, rinse it with water, spray it with regular wd-40 and let it sit for a minute (this dissolves the wax and sort of degreases the part), scrub with a stainless steel scourer (the metal sponge thing) then rinse with water again and dry off. Only takes a few mins and leaves the part clean of rust and somewhat "polished"

6:05 that is a vibration balancer for those small engines aka: Honda, predator, etc. It is used for consumer satisfaction. All it does is it smooths out the vibration of the engine so it's not shaking everywhere and shaking the machine it's on. Hope it helps.

Could yall test rust stopping methods? See which works the best? Would be a long project but interesting video!

I’m an aircraft structures & sheet metal mechanic & have dealt with plenty of corrosion during my career. Mostly aluminum but sometimes steel. I wish you guys would’ve used my favorite method for smaller areas of rust, which is a die grinder with a scotch brite wheel. Easy & fast! Similar to your drill & wire wheel but much easier & faster.

Rust comes from the north not the south. Everyone knows the rust mines are in the northern part of the country.

4:50 getting down to the bare metal isnt exactly great. the “black oxide” you are talking about is magnetite and hematite. Which is about the best corrosion barrier you could hope for. creating a fresh metal surface only leads to increased corrosion and loss of material in the future.

I used tinfoil dipped in vinegar on my rusty bicycle with surprisingly good results, worked well on chromed pards too, I'd be interested to see how it stacks up against the methods used.

I bought a spot blaster from Harbor Freight - I use 80 grit garnet (crushed rock) and do it on a workbench on my back lawn - no mess. Someday I'll get a blasting cabinet but until then the back lawn! Oh yeah, blasting works great for me in cleaning up rusty metal.

Did you guys do stress test on sockets yet? Also, would like to see: Tire pressure gauges Portable tire compressors Brake bleeder kit Drill bits Screw drivers stress test Multi meter Jack stand stress test

9:15 when they say "laser time" and the camera shoots up, I feel like that's a direct reference to the old William Osman videos because he did exactly that when he used his laser cutter

Another great thing about electrolysis is that you can even use it on parts that are small and/or "delicate". It's actually used by archaeologists to get rust off of artifacts, so you know it's good.

Great video 🙂 i'm sticking to vinegar and a brush washed off with baking soda mixed in water though hope you don't mind . you can use that with a power washer for underneath a car/truck and is in my good enough can weld now range for a rusty frame 🤔

The “thing” @ 13:30 is a counter balancer/weight from a small engine ex. Honda GX390 among others. It’s gear timed with the crank & cam shafts to minimize vibration. I see that part numerous times a week!

I used CLR to clean the inside of an old water logged gas tank for my motorcycle. Worked great

Love the cheesiness of this show.

the best I've found is the tip for my power washer. it draws sand in with the water and pressure stays consistent and really takes the rust off .

that mystery thing might be a counter balance shaft on a small engine.

3:50 glass beads are actually really soft and more for 'polishing' the material. Garnet sand would be way more aggressive then glass beads

FYI you can use the electrolysis method to plate steel with steel. This works great for restoration of motorcycle tanks without damaging the finish on preservation projects that have to remain in original condition.

i tried transmission fluid on a rusted out engine and it did really well. piston/cylinders looked new.

I have one of the ultrasonic cleaners and it’s awesome. Great for carb cleans as well as rust removal and even just cleaning the dirt off of something

"We can't use the laser bc we aren't certified" 13:05 ok well either this guy lost his job or he don't need safety glasses and knows something we don't

I always go with grinder and wire wheel attachment method. 12,000 rpm does wonders and you only have to occasionally buy a new wheel.

Tip for sand blasting, use a closed box, and fave a funnel like setup allowing you to re-use the sand

Wait, the dude operating the freakin' rust-blasting laser gun is named "Sun" and everyone just glosses over this? That's the best name for a laser tech you can imagine! How do we just ignore this?

My favorites are muriatic acid, evapo rust, and electrolysis. They work really well. Muriatic acid is good for stuff on the car, you can soak towels in it and leave them to sit there, and agitate the metal brush every few minutes. You have to make sure you have good ventilation though. Evaoprust is good for bolts and small parts you can put in a container that you're not in a rush to clean. It's non toxic and it's reusable. Electrolysis is really good for large parts you put in a storage container. I did this on my rusty seat rail to get it to move and it worked really well.

this is teh coolestz stuff i have seen in years on youtube.

I just soak parts in distilled vinegar for a couple of days and then use grinders and drills with wire brushes and they'll wipe off all the rust that the vinegar loosened. So much cheaper than other chemicals and much easier and safer to dispose of.

I am surprised they didn't test evapo-rust vs the CLR. The stuff has been shown to work really well. As well as just soaking it in vinegar.

Laser ASMR is my thing now

I used to have a media blaster. You need to have a box that holds everything in it but it works great and cheap.

Glass bead blaster used within a "glove box" is my favorite method. Got to have good glass beads and a lots of lots of compressed air. The glove box contains the media, systems that capture and separate the re-usable media from dust totally minimize media consumption. Unfortunately the whole entire system I'm referring probably cost about $6,000.00 (+ -) But it works so good I want one if I had a shop to put it in LOL the one I used at work in the shipyard was Superior to anything else I've ever used! Enjoyed your video thank you👍🙂

Zach and Jeremiah are my favourite presenters on Donut, and Tool Party is always a fun watch. Keep it up!

What about a rust converter? Instead of removing the rust, it reacts with it to form black oxide, which then helps resist further corrosion. Rust-Oleum sells a version called Rust Reformer.

I'd love to see you test respirators - I see you are using 3M ones. We also have them but it would be great to see what they actually capture vs a normal FFP2 or ventilation system. Etc.

You two together genuinely make me so happy, I wanna see more of these!

that unidentified part at 6:08 belongs in the millenium falcon, was part of the atenna that lando breaks.

My favorite and preferred way of cleaning the parts is to start off in the parts washer and that into the blast cabinet. Remember I use what you have and other ones similar it's really messy and if it's summertime you still need to put some sort of protection on your body. Whatever you are spraying out of the gun gets all over you and it's very uncomfortable. For anyone who is going to try the electrical way just keep in mind that most of the new chargers won't let you use it in this way. If you have an Old fashioned computer you can use the power supply from that. There are tons of videos that are out there to show you what wires to use. You can also use the power supply that you might have from something that you charged up in there longer have whatever it might have been but you kept the charger. As long as it's no more than 19 volts you can use that and that's quick and easy. If you have it really doesn't cost you anything to convert it. You can always pick up that kind of stuff at yard sales or flea markets.

The Bill Nye reference though, love this guy.

counter balance shaft from a single cylinder engine. Sometimes removed to reduce parasitic loss

Love the show! Here's some tools I thought would be entertaining to test. Jack stands Ways to cut metal, sawsall, angle grinder, plasma, cnc, band saw. Or just torture test angle grinders/reciprocating saws Ways to strip paint

Vinegar actually works really well on rust. It will also loosen rusted together hardware and plumbing parts.

1:37 - Rust is oxidised metal. Very often is used to protect things from outer air environment. Specially the copper. The copper roofs oxidies and creates very hard surface protective layer which is proof to almost everything.

Everytime i come back to this channel, the content gets smoother, more refined, and just overal improvement. An absolute pleasure getting to come back to better and better videos every time