Yeah came along at the PERFECT time for me.

Yeahh same

I also bearly am learning

that's because you never had to deal with solar or wind power ! There are so many aspects of electronic that you can explore, I love it !

@@fraaggl Exactly! I always use batteries or the wall outlet but it's interesting to learn about other corners of electronics

MPPT chargers are as common as sunshine in the solar charger/controller world.

While MPPT is more efficient, it comes at a higher cost than PWM. In smaller inexpensive systems, PWM charger is a better choice. Also, he mentioned the new "fly-by-wire" steering in newer EV's. While it sounds cool, it's more costly than traditional steering, using dual motors for redundancy and the inevitable lag when turning the wheel. The expression of "reinventing the wheel" is not always better. ;)

Glad you like it!

Me too. I only had a vague idea. Never new it was so clever..

I use Hall Effect based sensors professionally. We have to calibrate it when we know the current is 0. This is one of the quirks of using magnetic based sensors. Some applications it’s not possible (have 0A during startup).

@@akhurash These are just my observations, but in the case of a battery monitor, the more current that flows the more the sensor will be offset when the current drops back to zero. I was using a 200A ACS and was noticing plus or minus several hundred mA depending on whether the battery was charging or discharging just before dropping back to zero. Since you work with HE sensors professionally, I'm curious to know how you calibrate for a varying offset. I thought about nulling out the small values, but that would also wipe out the ability to monitor very small loads.

@@ddub9968 Interesting the project we use it on is for a BMS. We do a calibration every key cycle (ignition cycle). The Hall Effect sensor is actually a backup sensor, we use a Shunt as a primary sensor (for the benefits you mentioned).

Frequency?

Those do exist already, they are just a normal DC-DC converter, can be boost, buck, or both, but they have a 3rd adjustment in addition to the usual 1 or 2. The first 2 limit the maximum output voltage and sometimes output current as per normal, but the third limits/sets the minimum input voltage. You just set that 3rd adjustment to slightly below your panel's max power voltage. You set it a little low because the panel voltage drops when the panel temperature goes up so if you set it too high you will form a positive feedback loop of the panel gets hot dropping its max power voltage below the converter's setting so it ends up drawing less power from the panel which gets hotter which drops the voltage more so even less is drawn, Etc. That's the advantage of the tracking, conditions like the panel's temperature are not an issue.