I own this typ of dryer and use it like discribe. It is important to consider that both machines pump the waste water out, so I need to use a solution that prevent that one machine is pumping its water into the other. A plug with a flow control valve does this fine.

You're a genius

Yeah, but the heat pump drier produces so little water. Setting up something like that wouldn't be worth it.

@@airborne2876 sure, it doesn’t produce much water, but i’d rather do the extra work for the drain and just forget about it.

my guy

If we could just force everyone to live in the pod and eat the bugs then the world would be saved.

​@Guysm1l3y oh my God this is the most boring line. I can't believe how quickly you all snapped it up and started repeating it. Just go back to calling everybody else sheeple or something

If only we were talking about good infrastructure and planning. This is pretty much the opposite of that.

It's not culture. Humans are pretty bad at estimating likelihood when it's long term or when it's a vague concept. Like the health risk of smoking, it's a 1/10 chance of causing your death down the line.

​@Nathaniel Richards How about I'm a God damn American and I'll burn 350 amps at 5pm on a Tuesday afternoon on August if I damn well please. Never cow tow to environmentalists, not one inch.

Not sure why people say they have increased drying time. I have a Miele as well and it takes about 30-40 minutes for a load, compared to about 60 minutes on every other conventional gas dryer I've used, including commercial ones. I don't do a lot of laundry at a time though so perhaps that is the reason. I just drain the water to the sink next to it.

@@jimmyc7269 Those people probably always run their dryer on the highest heat, significantly reducing the lifespan of their clothing in the process.

My LG took 6 hours and destroyed the clothes in every setting. Absolute waste of money.

i once had to reteofit a drain to such a clothesdryer. So stupid that it did not has that by default. It was really easy to retrofit, and from that day on, there was no wett floor anymore due to students constantly forgetting to empty the reservoir out befor using the dryer.

@cookyourkids As someone who only ever used heat pump dryer and coming from a country where the new instalation of exhaust dryers is no longer allowed for quite some years I can only agree. The extra lint filtration is certainly nice when you see what kind of stuff is captured in there which else would still be in your clothes. Also emptying the tank and cleaning the lint meshes takes about the same time as filling detergent into the washing machine so not much of a problem there. On the note of emptying tanks, I am farily certain there are some that can be plumbed directly into a drain, my parents have it set up like that if I remeber correctly. Also time wise, I can't remeber how long it took but I lived with 12-14 people in a house for two weeks and we did 1-3 loads of laundry per day, never had any problems time wise while using an honestly almost 10 year old domestic heat pump dryer.

£300 is very cheap. The cheapest one I saw was £360 and the cheapest A+++ one is like £480 which also is pretty decent imo If buying brand new, I'd personally opt for : An A rated washing machine, with a 1600rpm spin An A+++ tumble dryer that has reverse action too. That helps cut down costs considerably. This is what I did when I bought my house in July of last year I've noticed that the tumble dryer is actually using less energy than my washing machine. It used even less as the days got warmer I used it a couple of days ago, and it used barely any power. It was essentially warm enough outside that my clothes would dry quickly but also I've got solar panels, and I was like "I can either export this for pennies, or I can just use that energy" so I figured I may as well use it

@@waqasahmed939 if I ever get solar, I will export NONE of it….it will all be MINE!

I bought combi-unit in Croatia, but when I did research, I didn't even found any trace of existence of heat-pump tumble dyers.

We have them in Turkey too and they are getting cheaper. Also the newer models have drain pipes that can drain the water tank automatically. Most people stack them on top of washing machines so you alread have a drain around.

@@eknkc heat pump dryer yes, but I never saw heat pump combi-unit.

Definitely do all the weatherization upgrades you can first. (Air sealing the attic and rim joist made a huge difference for me.) Once you've got your potential consumption down, then turn an eye to your furnace.

@@needfuldoer4531 Depends on what is required to seal+insulate and what your current fuel source is. Retrofitting very old homes that you can find in the northeast US with good air sealing can get very expensive, mine is a good example. I live in a 250 year old home with wood siding and no form of house wrap for most of the house, meaning in many areas any small gap in the clapboards can let the cold winter winds go right into the wall cavities, negating a LOT of the comparatively thin insulation we do have (2x4 exterior walls). Fixing that would require removing all the existing wood siding to wrap the house and replace it with all new siding. Wood siding isn't cheap to install or paint. There are ways to do it from the inside with foam-board installed between the studs against the sheathing, but that would involve completely gutting every exterior wall. Then we have our dirt basement+crawlspace which needs to be full encapsulated before we can add more attic insulation without risking mold issues. Compared to ALL that putting in a heat pump can give you a big reduction in heating costs immediately if you are heating with propane, oil or resistive electric. In our case that was a roughly 40% drop in heating costs last year and 20% this year (electricity went up a ton) And remember many heatpumps have variable inverter driven compressors, so getting the heatpump before doing all the insulation and air sealing is less likely to give you issues from having an oversized unit like a furnace or single stage AC would.

@@williamlancto3655ya. Same here. To insulate the attic would cost thousands. It'll be a decade or so before we break even on the cost of running an ac unit up there during the warm months. No issues during the cold. The guy that came to give an estimate even told us not to do it lol

@@williamlancto3655 Thank you. Here in Germany, where it gets comparatively cold during the winter months, so many people claim that a heat pump is basically useless unless your house is incredibly well insulated. And we are talking about our typical solid brick houses. It's nice to read some positive stories.

@@SomePotato they're talking bullshit... Heat pumps have been useful already in the 1950s...

In Europe, this is called a local heating network. It is used to heat entire settlements from a central combined heat and power plant.

I’ve dreamed of the e same thing, imagine the refrigerator moving heat to the outside rather than inside in summer or to the dryer

There are already systems which do most of this. On a recent series of This Old House they installed a Mitsubuishi system which does home heating/cooling and water heating.

I've given good thought to this, too. I think this can work well in a warm climate. For instance, I have always wondered why there are no mass market options for using waste heat from summer air conditioning to heat a pool or water tank. However, in cold climates I think the obstacle is that air source heat pump tech cannot really keep up with heating demand unless grossly oversized. Electricity in such regions tends to be quite expensive, so gas continues to reign as a cheap, plentiful heating source. Frankly, I shudder to think what it would cost to heat a house in February in a place like Syracuse, NY with only heat pump tech.

I'd love to run hot pipes in the floor and cold ones in the ceiling to make use of convection for both heating and cooling

The bit where he was talking about “all electric homes” I was thinking “huh? you mean like… a normal home?”

That is nice in places with private energy companies, but coming from the place I live Mexico where basically all the essentials (water, electricity and gas) is handle by the state, every time there's an outage we just can only bitch about it on the internet and hope they fix it fast, which in some places is never fast. I like this idea of a full electric house but I feel it will be a really hard transition over here.

@@Raidou_ Private is not a golden bullet. It depends on the context. It might mean an improvement for Mexico, but if I look at how it works in Texas, I don't think privatization is a fool-proof plan.

Having a competent group managing it is the key, the style of the organization matters little as long as its competent and this is often determined by competition between multiple different entities which is why private systems tend to have better outcomes.

A day or two for power restoration? Talk to someone from Atlantic Canada sometime. We weren't even directly hit by Fiona and didn't have power for two weeks.

a little here too. maybe nit as drastic as yours but a few things got shuffled around and the backup generator for the house got downsized too

Stick solar on the roof and have a wall 'o LiFePo4. Just get it set up by somebody who knows what they are doing. I was all for jerry-rigging my own system with mid-priced Chinesium, when I came across a video by somebody who saw bizarre behaviour and then a fire even from his top-brand Battle Borns. Or stick solar on the roof and use an all-in-one like a Bluetti for now, and wait for sodium-ion, which will be a game-changer for home backup.

You and me both. Been planning on a remodel for a few years now. Definitely using recommendations from these videos as considerations in my design.

@@worldcomicsreview354 Yeah, be carrefull with battery powered by solar, a datacenter in France burned down last week because of a human error while connecting the batteries of a solar installation (that were LiFePo4)

Could you tell us more about your home plans? I often think about how I could save energy at home, but I don't yet own my own home.

Yes, it is strange. In Finland gas is locally used mainly on stoves. It also is used to produce electricity and district heating. Originally they used city gas but 30 years ago they switched to natural gas.

They use it for drying clothes too. The Americans are very non-progressive in regards to their own homes. You can see that in the outdated fixtures and fittings, the furnishing styles and construction materials too.

Electricity is very inefficient for heating unless you add the complexity of a heat pump. Running gas furnace costs like $30/mo, a resistive heater would cost like $300/mo

@@kibels894 A large majority of people use heat pumps or geothermal heating here. Mostly just apartments that uses anything else, most older buildings use central water heating, so it gets heated and then sent throughout the building

Stoves, water heaters, dryers, and furnaces run on natural gas in the US. In my area natural gas is piped like water, you connect your home and have it available plus it's very cheap. I spend about $100 dollars/month for heating a large home, doing laundry for a family of 5, showers, and cooking at home 5 to 6 days a week.

How long does it take for a full load to dry?

@@ZZ-sb8os Takes mine slightly less than 2 hours for a full load (7KG - limit of my washing machine). 3 and a bit hours if packed to the very brim beyond what they say it should. Very mid-range model - Bosch WTH85222GB

did you know moving heat require less energy to create the same amount of heat?

@advanceringnewholder Obviously

Try a Quooker life change #2

I love arguing with people who claim that gas is preferable to induction. Invite me to your next party, I'm fun!

@@SomePotato I'm convinced that people that think gas is better for cooking have just inhaled too much carbon monoxide.

Induction is so much better it's not even funny. Gas seems like just a refined bonfire compared to that.

It's especially great when you use an electric kettle to warm up the water first, and then add it to a pan on an induction stove. Thanks for this idea, Technology Connections! I can boil water so quickly!

And it’s definitely realistic. Here in the Netherlands I experienced my first power outage in my life a few months ago, and it was fixed within 2 hours.

@@zandkoekin the US when we have decent power outages the power is back within a few hours. Only time it took longer was a hurricane (which didn't change my power availability) and when an animal crawled into a transformer.

@@TheMysteryDriver Your experience is not everyone's experience. We had a major windstorm which took out most of the area and power was out for as many as 19 days for some of Northern Virginia. It happened during a relatively-nice time with minimal AC requirements. If it happened during one of our 104 degree (or 14 degree) periods it would have been a disaster.

@@TheMysteryDriver living in rural Minnesota, I’ve had power out for… I think it was about 6 days one winter. Freezing rain and strong winds took out lots of overhead power lines. Once immediately dangerous downed lines had been made safe… though not necessarily repaired… repairs were triaged so that the repair that would restore power to the most customers (or the most vulnerable, such as senior care facilities or barns with vulnerable livestock) before repairs that would restore power for just a few. Yes, most power outages are repaired within a few hours, but that isn’t something I count on as an absolute

​@@TheMysteryDriver I also grew up rural in the US (hmm sensing a theme here...) and we'd very often go for two to four days without power due to winter storms at least once per winter. Our problem was we were on a dead end line, so a single break in the line meant everything past it was just dead. And we were still on that dead end line decades after it was run because there were only about 100 households off it, and it was many miles long. During one winter with a LOT of flooding, power was out for over a week for us, and our typical outage affected the majority of the local cities as crews tried to do repairs amidst flooding and landslides. When the power was out, our little valley would band together to make sure everyone was OK. One neighbor had his own well dug specifically so he could harden it against the power outages since we didn't have the space around the shared well,and he made sure we had access to water. My house had the best setup for cooking without power, so some nights we'd have four households potlucking. Another neighbor kept things plowed and passable with his small Catapillar tractor. That's the kind of community action being talked about at the end of the video, not power companies and government agencies.

Depends where you are. Reverse cycles are becoming more common in Canberra. Im pretty sure mains is 230Vrms nowadays as well for most states. I guess it helps that our standard 100A service in Aus nets you twice as much power as America.

I live down in Melbourne and you best believe we have a good heating system in this house (four separate ones in total, two smaller space heaters for specific rooms, a reverse cycle heat pump hot/cold air con in the living room and gas ducted heating throughout the house.) We don't use them frequently or for very long periods, but they're there for when they're needed, and sometimes they're very much needed. What I find strange about these videos on the US electrical system is the fact that water heaters and dryers seem so implausible off of anything but gas in the US when over here you just plonk a drier onto a standard outlet, usually the exact same outlet as your washing machine, and run both at the same time with no issue, while also running many other things. I think it's time they looked into maybe standardising 240 at least for the main appliances and having it be something required in the laundry/basement of the house so that those areas are there if needed. They definitely need a revamp of their systems because you can't even boil a kettle without it taking a significant amount of time from a powerpoint there and that just seems absurd to me, lol.

Speaking of propane, I've absolutely fallen in love with the dual-fuel electric/propane water heater on my camper. Most of the time if I'm hooked up to a sufficient power supply I just leave it on electric like a normal electric water heater. If I'm say visiting friends or family and only have a 15 amp socket to plug into (or I'm somewhere with no power hookup at all) I can simply run it on propane. Perhaps it's because party trick is running both at once though. Propane mode is slightly more powerful than electric mode, running both together is roughly twice as powerful as either one alone. Personally I'd love to have a hybrid propane and heat pump water heater. Most of the time it could sit there squirreling away a little bit of excess heat (especially good since most campers are only used in warm weather) then if the demand was high it could simply kick on the propane for a boost. As is, with no heat pumps for the water heater or heating, I already have essentially all the comforts I did in my last apartment, while being limited to merely 30 amps. I barely have to consider my power usage aside from making sure I don't run say the microwave, hot plate, and air conditioner all of the same time, which is easy enough to do. With a smart breaker panel of some sort and heat pumps for the water heater and heating that 30 amps could be stretched even farther.

Also, having used both electric resistive heat and the propane furnace in my camper for heating I've noted that depending on the exact price of electricity and propane at wherever I'm at propane usually just breaks even with electric resistive heating. If I had even a simple heat pump in my rooftop unit it would be far more cost-efficient to heat with electricity than propane. When the unit I have eventually dies I'm already planning on replacing it with the heat pump version of the same unit. If I had the choice I would have gladly paid the extra $200 to have the heat pump version from the accurate. It would have paid for itself already in under a year just from heating the camper over this past winter

Why would HVAC installers be against heat pumps? Seems like a car mechanic being against cars?

@@davedoe6445 More like a car mechanic that doesn't want to learn about servicing hybrid or electric vehicles. For HVAC the opposition may come from the more complex control wiring and additional components in the refrigerant chain confuse them.

​@@davedoe6445 As a purchaser of a HPWH last year, I would guess it's partly staying with what they know. And if they're keeping busy with what they know, it takes a forward-thinking owner - or incentives - to get any business to start transitioning. Our plumbing company (large) seemed to have one guy who really understood the technology and the models available, and he was careful to make sure we were a good fit, and were aware of consumer incentives. The plumber doing the installation didn't need any special training as far as I could tell, though.

@@raygunsforronnie847 It's sad how much humans hurt themselves by being unwilling (or unable) to learn or try new things.

I know when I wanted to do a heat pump here in Minnesota it was a nightmare trying to get an HVAC installer to understand why I wanted one (no natural gas here, and if I had natural gas I do agree that a heat pump gets a little silly if you are not thinking long-term).

Hey David, just letting you know but the pot doesn't need to be magnetic to work. Copper cookware will work just fine on an induction stove even though it's not magnetic. It just need to be conductive.

They also sell adapters for the old pans! Did you try one of those? I have a couple of pans that are not induction ready and I would prefer to keep them

@@Ergzay, no, it needs to be ferromagnetic for the vast majority of induction cookers. Copper and aluminium won't work, it needs to have steel in the bottom.

@@MrPaukann This is true for most induction stoves at the moment, but the technology is rapidly catching up! Induction stoves rely on induction (naturally) to induce currents in the metal cookware. This works for any type of metal cookware in the same way that two coils of wire induce currents in each other regardless of what metal they are made of. The problem is getting this current to produce heating. Copper and aluminum is very low resistance, so the induced currents don't generate much heat. That's why we use them for wiring, after all! But for a cooking surface, that's less ideal. I believe it can also be dangerous for an induction stove, since it creates a very low resistance load which leads to a high current draw from the source (I = V/R, after all). The reason ferromagnetic metals work for induction actually isn't so much due to their magnetic properties (although that certainly has an effect in terms of guiding the magnetic fields into the heating surface), but rather that they have a much more pronounced skin-effect (which admittedly is due to their magnetic properties, but in a more roundabout way). Without getting into too much detail, skin effect is the tendency for current in a metal to stick to the outer surface of the metal as the frequency of the current driving signal increases. This is useful here because it means that less of the metal is being used to hold the current, and thus the effective resistance of the surface increases! It's kinda like the difference between driving an Amp of current through a thick wire and a thin wire. The thin wire will heat up a lot more (which is why heavy current draws can be so dangerous!). For Al and Cu, this skin effect doesn't become pronounced until far higher frequencies than for ferrous cookware. However, thanks to continuing advances in commercial power RF technology, induction stovetops are being released that can now reach these frequencies! So look forward to that in the future!

@@Descriptor413 >rather that they have a much more pronounced skin-effect (which admittedly is due to their magnetic properties Yes, and this class of materials is called ferromagnetics >induction stovetops are being released that can now reach these frequencies! So look forward to that in the future! That's why I said "for the vast majority of induction cooker", not "for all cookers"

Essentially, Easy-Bake for adults.

Good point! Single household, I use my oven practically only when baking pizza or cake and mostly when there's enough green electricity. Vegetables I try to steam in the microwave, less heat and nutrient loss compared to a pan

I'm now imagining someone trying to bake a cake or banana bread (the two most often use cases besides fries) in an air fryer.

Add in the fact there are also combi air fryer/pressure cooker units as well. The problem quickly turns more into "Will I have enough counterspace" lol

true! i pretty much stopped using my oven after getting an air fryer since i never bake anything that won't fit in an air fryer, and the fact that i can put it anywhere is just awesome. (also, smaller size -> less preheating required!!)

Smart

@@TheGripsion. No

If I had really though about what features I wanted (namely: solar panels) in my home before building it, I wouldn't even have had gas run to the house. In order to change the gas appliances out I'll have to spend big bucks. :(

You'll own nothing and be happy.

@@Longbowgun Air to Air heat pumps are rather cheap nowdays and you can import solar panels from china for very little money yourself. Induction cookers are also a lot better than gas stoves. In general it mostly makes sense to change out gas appliances when they break aka when you need to spend big bucks anyway.

@@JamesSmith-qs4hx Do you have nothing better to do?

I cook for a living and find induction absolutely horrible.

@@newunderthesun7353 Must be why you don't see them in restaurants or in restaurant suppliers.

​@@votefornormality There's restaurants who do induction on purpose, makes for a safer working environment with less latent heat.

@@newunderthesun7353 Why?

@@IslandC0der Let me be clear, there is a place for induction, just not yet in commercial restaurant kitchens as a primary cooking option. Here are some reasons why: 1) Chefs prefer to use aluminum, copper and stainless steel pans for certain food items. They choose these pans for heat control - the pans heat and cool quickly which gives them control over what is cooking in the pan. Adding a ferrous base to the pan makes the pan heavier and harder to control the heat - it heats and cools slower. 2) Induction, even with a 220v circuit, is much slower to heat a pan than gas. I have a 220 v cooktop and it is impossible to boil water, let alone stock. 3) My professional induction cooktop has an induction coil that is only 9" in diameter. This means on my 12" wide stockpots, the heat will still be concentrated into that 9 inches, which makes for a slow and uneven heating of the pot. 4) Gas provides instant temperature control with a simple twist of the gas knob. There is a long delay with temperature changes with induction. 5) It is impossible to use real Woks or other specialty cookware with induction. A real Wok has a rounded base and uses a special frame over the gas flame to hold the Wok. Check out The French Guy cooking channel and watch his episode on cooking with a Wok. Many French sauces require copper cookware, which cannot be used on induction. The copper, as stated elsewhere here, is used for precise temperature control. Removing the pan from the flame, even for a few seconds, changes the temperature of the pan. 6) Some techniques such as charring or flambeeing are nearly impossible with induction. Even tossing items in the pan, which is a way of not just turning the food over, but is how temperature is controlled, can cause the induction cooktop to sound an alarm or turn off due to the lack of the pan contacting the cooktop. Induction cooktops have a magnetic switch under the cooktop. A magnet is attracted to the ferrous base and stays suspended to the underside of the cooktop. When the pan is removed, the magnet drops and activates a switch that turns off the cooktop. That is a gross oversimplificaiton, but that's how it works. 7) In Chicago, where I live, and in most other big cities, very few restaurants are built from scratch, most new restaurants take over restaurants that closed or went out of business. Or if a new restaurant is built into new space, the budget is limited. So even if you want to use induction, retrofitting an existing restaurant is extremely expensive. And if you're just starting out, the added cost of induction over gas is generally not in the budget. That said, there is a place for induction. Induction is great for the home or restaurant if you're making eggs or pancakes. I acutally have a portable induction cooktop that I use for cooking classes on my counter. I use it daily for those foods. It would also be useful to simmer a pot of soup or a big batch of tomato sauce - as long as you don't have to bring anything to a boil. My 220 v cooktop just sucks at bringing stock pots to a boil, even if it's just water. I was recently in Florence Italy and Paris France. I visited new restaurants in both cities. In Florance, the new steak house we visited did indeed have no gas cooktops. They built, instead, a rack of wood fired cooktops. They had five chefs lined up cooking steaks over actual fire pits. Then to the side they had a couple of induction stations for stock pots simmering. In France the restaurant we visited had five new wood fired ovens, a bunch of gas stoves and induction stations. So I guess each method is not exclusive of the other, and each has it's place in the kitchen. Lastly, don't believe that myth about how the cooktop does not get hot to the touch. If you have a pot on the induction surface that you bring to 200 degrees, the surface of the cooktop, from the heat of the pot, will also be 200 degrees. If you touch it you will get burned.

What a great solution to your problem! $500 a piece with self installation!? You must've saved some serious dough with that!

They are also extremely good at simmering. Having something cook slowly over a long time is easier on induction than gas.

@@trissylegs even resistive electric is fantastic at simmering with no burning :) it’s all about the minimum heat output of a flame, electric can regulate lower

@@kaitlyn__L Depending on the controls...mine was an on/off cycle that went between burning and too cool.

Induction is amazing! Control is so granular and the reaction is almost instantaneous. Auto-off when you remove the pan is cool too. Another cool thing I learned is that any ferrous (magnetic) metal is compatible. So both cast iron and anything with a steel bottom will work. I thought that my cast iron would be wasted, but it worked better than ever! Unfortunately, the fancy copper bottom pots I had for conventional heat were a no-go. So I got a pot and pan with thick steel bottoms and they worked like a charm. Beware "induction compatible" aluminum cookware though ... they basically achieve that by putting little steel plugs in the bottom of the pan which results in weak performance and uneven heating.

@@drumguy1384 for those copper ones you can get plates that allow them to work

I would trust my long time A/C tech's advice over the propaganda of the energy natzis....they have to fix those things frequently.

How do you know they're wrong? If you live in an area where it's regularly below freezing during the winter then the heat pump is way less efficient than gas.

Some people at work got a heat pump installed to save money and energy. This year, which hasn't even been that bad of a winter, their heating costs doubled than if they had stayed with their oil furnace. Electricity ain't cheap everywhere.

@@ssz28envy I’m assuming headset guy is more familiar with the climate where he lives than you are. He’s probably done the math using average number of days below freezing per year in his area.

Your central ac system can't heat? It would be possible to retrofit that, anything that cools is basically a heat pump. Over here all the HVAC guys are booked solid, cost for a heat pump install has more than doubled because of the demand. Glad I work in refrigeration only tho, dealing with homeowners can be a pain sometimes.

I have Fernwärme (~remote heat) - water and heating are done centrally for all apartments using heat pumped in from a ecological garbage burning plant. Gets rid of trash and provides cheap heat and no fossil fuels enter the building

They still let you use a wood stove in Germany? I thought the govt wanted to outlaw that. Another thing that Germans can tell the rest of the world is "sTriCtLy fOrbiDdEn iN gErMaNy."

Here in Australia we hardly need to heat the water in summer, and small rooftop hot water units are very common. It"s often a challenge to draw off enough hot water to prevent boiling and purging in the mid summer 😂 These systems use a gas or electric booster for the worst of winter. So we can't use our water heaters for cooling LOL

@@johncoops6897 well, that's oviously a very cheap way to make very sustainable hot water. And your house will probably still warm up less because the sun isn't hitting your roof directly, although the effect probably depends a lot on your usage of the space underneath the roof.

@@fuchsy4498 - we commonly use roof cavity ventilation. They usually have thermally-controlled vents, to let hot air escape and draw cool air in thru vents in the eaves. My own place used a thermost and a shuttered fan at the apex, as I found the passive system needed too many ugly top-hat vents on the roof. It used legible power, I think it was like 60W when it was running, maybe $40 per year.

I’m so stupid! I thought „oh wow what a great new technology!“ but reading your comment I realised we had condenser dryers for ages in Germany as well! I just didn’t make the connection to „heat pump dryer“.

@@McPebbster Condenser dryers use resistive heat and a blower to achieve the same thing, dry the air, blow it through damp clothes, absorb the moisture, and pass it over fins to cool and condense the moisture. But the key point here is that it's resistive heat. Heat pump dryers look almost identical to condensers, but steal the heat instead of making it, but still have the same tank and filters that condensers have. Or another way, Traditional Condenser dryers share much the same technology as Heat Pump Dryers, just the way and cost of it generating the drying part is different.

Even Aldi had a heat pump dryer for sale recently here in Sydney Australia. They are becoming very common here, since the payback period is extremely short compared to resistive drivers.

I was confused for a moment about the difference between these two types of dryers because I thought they were the same. But then I did a little research and figured out that the reason I was confused is because heat pump dryers are sometimes confusingly labeled in Germany as "Condenser dryers with heat pump technology".

​@@johncoops6897 we missed the aldi sale, bought one elsewhere and it still paid itself off before the next aldi sale... The payback period can really be that short

Not a boiler, but a heat exchanger.

@@willembos8367 no the op is talking about a combi boiler. We have them in Canada.

We also use them in Romania as well. Many people also have solar water heaters on the roof and connected to the hot water circuit. Also heat pump dryers.

​@@ioanghip solar panel water heater, the best solution in sunny Greece, too

I'm so excited for you. By the way, as i type this out, I recall a UKposts suggestion: build faucets into all 4 sides [or corners] of your home. The idea is that you don't want hoses getting in the way of anything. Having faucets around the house will help that. I thought of something else: anticipate where you might want more power in the future, and then add wiring in the walls. to that location, without connecting the wiring. Are you interested in rain water collection? Watch every UKposts video on the different systems, and see to it, that you can adjust as you need. My brother tried to install a rain barrel but because he tried to save money on getting a new down spout, he ended up hiring 2 contractors, who both failed. On top of that, houses aren't typically designed to keep rain collectors, which means that a container sits where people might walk, or where furniture could be, or where plants could be. I would go so far as to imagine where the collected water is going to be consumed, and see if you can let the roof water drain towards there, and be collected at an out of the way location.

Glad you won Powerball, enjoy.

He misses a very big point with the driers (or maybe they’re not common in the us) - a lot come with plumbing kits that allow you to pump the condensate directly out into a sink/drain. Ours is literally no different to run than a normal resistive dryer in effort.

Our heat pump dryer is a dream. We can only put our dryer in the bathroom and that has no windows because it's inside. So any solution that has to blow air out of the apartment is out of the question for us. Our heat pump dryer is quiet, even though it's in the middle of the apartment, and after two hours, up to 16 pounds of laundry are dry. Unfortunately, when we bought it in 2020, the kit to connect it to the drain was not available because of Covid-19. Since then, we have been too lazy to retrofit it, but just quickly dumping the small tank into the sink is no big deal now.

@@vonBlankenburgLP sounds better than the old solution, a “condenser drier” which still used heat to dry, but also requires manual emptying of a tank!

Yes I mean almost all dryers nowadays are heat pump. I think one of the reason is that electricity is much more expensive in the US that in general we tend to have much more efficient appliances. Water heaters are not that common because gas is common and (or at least, was) very cheap compared to electricity, thus almost everywhere you see combination boilers that will do central heating and also instantaneous hot water. In my country electric water heaters are found in hot climate where you don't have an heating system, or where you don't have a gas heating system (for example wood/pellet or diesel heating). Water heaters are coming for no-gas houses, since with heat pumps you have less heating power and thus you will need a storage tank.

We have a hot water tank that runs on the oil boiler, and heats up with the heat (it will also heat up with the fire, if we are using the fireplace, thanks to the back boiler). We just installed an electric shower, so we can have hot showers on days when we don't run the boiler, and so don't heat the water tank. This is a pretty common arrangment where we are.

Not all of Europe. In Portugal most homes have between 3 to 6.9kW available (single phase) and the majority of homes relies on natural gas, butane or propane for water heating and cooking. Even some homes with solar panels for water heating still have natural gas installed for the winter months when the water is not hot enough from the solar panel alone. I would love to exchange my natural gas tankless water heater with one with an heatpump, but there's limited space (these are usually 80x40x30cm) and tearing the house apart just to install one is not economically viable.

As other comments already pointed out, there is not only some general difference between the US and Europe, but also due to given conditions across Europe, as someone from Portugal pointed out. Around the mediteranean sea I have seen a lot, if not all houses having a solar heater and tank on the roof, which I guess in those climates is good for plenty of free hot water through most of the year. But the further north you get, those get less until you see no more of them. I think what you describe is what you will very commonly find, with some variations, around Germany, Austria, Netherlands etc. And looking at how houses or apartements are built today, most commonly you have a high efficiency condensating furnace to provide both, hot water for the main bathroom and hot water for the hydronic heating, either using in floor heating or registers, which is already the main difference to US homes. For all other sinks, kitchen, other bathrooms, toilet, if there is hot water, you will find electric water heaters, either with a small 5 liter tank, or small tnakless ones. But the difference is, those tankless heaters are only for that faucet. or in some cases with larger ones, only for that bathroom. In the US that tankless heater usually serves all bathrooms and the kitchen. Also I mentioned high efficiency condensating furnaces (in German Brennwerttherme or Brennwertkessel) which by condensating exhaust gases get as high as ninetyodd percent efficiency. Marketing materials state up to 108 % efficiency, which I find rather odd and hard to believe. My furnace was just maintained a few days ago, the mandatory analysis of exhaust gases showed about 99.8 % efficiency (meaning energy removed from the exhaust gas comparing it to the intake air based on temperature, as well as complete as possible combustion of the gas.). I found an older table where they put an average heating efficiency for gas furnaces at about 70 percent. 80 to 90 % for lower temperature in floor heating systems. condensating furnaces had to be above 99 %. I know those exist for tankless gas heaters in the US as well, I think the company shown in the video (Rheem?) has them. I am just not sure how common they are yet. For newer homes and certain renovations targeting efficiency using solar for hot water and/or heating might be a thing as well. solar power also takes up, but for most new homes and recent renovations, heatpumps are taking off more and more. To a small degree you might as well find gas powered heat plants producing heat for a whole street or neighborhood (Usually if those have been built at once within like the last 20 years). For a time those were considere more efficient than single home heating solutions, especially if those might create electric power as well. Other than that, you might find this kind of heating around plants which create a lot of waste heat. Next thing you mentioned, we are rather spoiled with getting plenty of three phase electricity to our houses. A single family home usually has 3 phase 230 volt with a 63 Ampere service. That is either 14.5 kW single phase or 43.5 kW if you really use the 400 Volt between phases and 3 phase. Those tankless electrical water heaters usually are 3 phase and, if for a whole bathroom, usually 32 amp, so they get to 22 kW as well. What you may find here as well, is a combination of those tankless systems with a tank. For example we have such a tankless furnace for heating and hot water, but we have an additional 150 l tank. That usually is enough for a whole family, and that tank is so well insulated, some years ago we only figured out that our furnace had failed (electronics issue) when we ran out of hot water after two or three days. I think those tanks lose about 1 to 1.5 °C over 24 hours. Heating was not in use at that time of the year. When it comes to heat pump dryers, I recently have seen a video by Matt Risinger, a guy who runs a construction company in Texas and has developed a love for high efficiency and European materials like higher insulating European style windows. He showed his heat pump dryer for his highly energy efficient home, where he did not want to make the home as airtight as possible for efficiency, ant then vent out warm air through the dryer. It looked like something with a certain novelty factor for the US. In that context I tried to look it up, and unless i looked into commercial grade dryers with like 25 kg capacity, here in Germany I could not find any more gas heated or vented dryers as home appliances. I think those were phased out, because they just didn´t make European required Energy efficiency standards. I think gas heated dryers never have been around here in larger numbers anyways. What Alec mentioned about drying time, I guess we are used to have a dryer run 3 hours. Personally I don´t see an issue with that. I have it running and do something different in between. I rarely want to dry something that badly and urgently that I can´t wait. And even those before heapt pump, we had to clean lint traps. Also, with what I think, dryers beeing more common these days, I still know plenty of households not having or not using a dryer. Line drying seems to be still a very common thing here in Europe.

How many houses have a 3 phase supply going to them? Not many I'd wager. Though you can still get enough power from a single phase.

I'm using all-in-one AEG washer/dryer for about 5 years. Only downside is that I have to open it and clean dust from clothes from heat pump once per year. There are a lot of filters, but the smallest dust can pass the filters and than reach radiator wet by condensed moisture and the dust is stuck there. After 3 years the radiator was almost complete block. So now I clean it once a year. I have to remove about 20 screws (2 for top metal cover, the rest for plastic cover inside), but it is about 30 minutes total work. It is clear that the washer/dryer is design to be cleaned, because there are only screws, no one time use clip, tape or something like that.

I need an all-in-one washer dryer. I have a bad habit of forgetting clothes in the washer, and they get a nasty smell which is next to impossible to get rid of. Family of 3, so we don't do much laundry really. My in-laws in Korea have a really old all-in-one which still works fine. LG is a decent brand for such things. They've been around a while and know what they are doing.

We use to have a LG washer/dryer... it broke.. replaced it with a samsung.. and.. well it also broke, but we had warranty. It now works. One washer dryer on family of 6. work just fine. Just do a load every night. (and like 3 a day on the weekends)

@@matsv201 LG is a decent company... Sadly, "decent company" is a very relative term though.

@@travcollier Well yea.. LG is not quite quality products. But it was quite cheap when i bought it. The Samsung was actually cheaper, but because i bought it 6 years later, combo system did drop in price quite a bit during that period. Still i would suspect that a quality european brand would probobly be better. But they are like twice the price

Are you sure it's a heatpump and not a condenser dryer? From the outside, they look the same. The working principle isn't even that different; both use heat exchangers to condense the water from the hot air, but one focuses on hot air while the other focuses on dry air.

I recently installed a heatpump dryer in CA replacing that giant 5 kW abomination US homes typically have - the best improvement lately. It had easily cut the annual electricity usage 1/4. I was a bit sceptical and everything tried to talk me against it, but it turned out to be great.

@@kephir4eg what th.... 5kW?? my condensing dryer take 1.5kW.. while, yes, its pretty slow, but its not THAT slow.

The main issue is the heat exchanger. Not enough surface area and it's slow, too much and it clogs up with lint. I wonder how they've got around that.

@@kephir4eg Thing is, my current dryer is still churning along after 22 years. With my experience with recent appliances, it would be a hard sell to get me to spend money on something that might not last long enough to make up the price difference.

What did it cost? Happy with the brand? My parents need to replace their old junky one, and since you quote CAD I suspect we have the same selection of options.

@@tristanridley1601 Samsung DV22N6800HW, it was CAD1100. It's been good! It works well, it was easy to install, and it's been almost two years exactly with 0 problems.

my concern is batteries and heat do not go together

@@monkeyoperator1360 The oven is thermally insulated from the lower drawer. You can try it yourself by turning the oven on and then open the drawer. It should barely be hotter (if at all) than the surrounding air. The oven handle is likely to be hotter than the inside if the drawer.

Im surprised the Heat Pump water heaters is different than EEVBlog Dave Jones.

Two of my favorite content creators in one place. I'll be damned. Thank you both for all that you do.

​@@tim3172 It shouldn't even need much insulation, heat rises and the battery is underneath the hot bit. In fact, as heat rises, surrounding air might get sucked in and actually slightly cool the battery compartment!

Not to mention the fact many middle class families have a freezer or second refrigerator. This is a really neat idea!

To be fair, if you have an existing heat pump air conditioner, then you already have that circuit in the house anyway, which I think was the crux of his point.

Venting the cold air out will likely be worse than keeping it in. If the exhaust air is 40º but outside ambient is 20º, keep it in. Because any air you push out of the house must be replaced from the outside anyway.

This is way better than TV. If he got a gig at a network, it would totally ruin the show. He would have to do what some pencil pusher says, and they would ask for stupid shit, like fake conflict with a room-mate or something. No, he doesn't need TV. It's TV that needs him.

@themightyboondi THATS not how my electric stove’s low setting works. It operates at ~200 watts power. Just enough to keep food warm

Same here in Australia. And it gets cold here, despite what people think (our climate is similar to Spain, except in unpopulated areas).

Propane "borrowing". Certified apocalypse hustler.

One of the downsides of relatively cheap energy here in the U.S. is that we’ve been very slow about spending the upfront money to switch to more efficient technologies for consumer products. Most of these technologies are in use in industrial settings where accountants consider total cost of use/ownership instead of initial cost only.

Cracking, dries low and slow. saves a huge electric bill and saves damp smells from leaving clothes to hang around the house when its cold outside.

If only they would think to extract the heat back from the water going down the drain instead of taking it out of the freaking air!!!

@@cezarcatalin1406 the water is usually luke warm after having cooled and condensed

@@cezarcatalin1406 That idea exists… I believe the name for it is grey-water heat exchanger. They can be used to partially preheat the cold water going into your water heater. Works with any type of water heater. I don’t know any details about the tradeoffs (e.g. possible gunk buildup on the grey-water side), or how much energy they’d actually save.

@@cezarcatalin1406 Or perhaps you meant putting the heat-pump’s evaporator coil into the grey water. I don’t know if anyone has done that. Sounds like a good idea as long as it has a way to avoid freezing the grey water.

Some homes have vents that move cold air from the basement to the top floor and hot air from there to the basement. This sounds like more of the same good idea.

It would be better to have houses build with sufficient power and a grid that (almost) never have outages. Where I live, power outages are so rare that no one would buy such a device.

@@trex2099 Where I live power outages are almost non-existent, but sometimes drivers hit utility poles and is not fast to change one of those things. And you can hook your own solar panels to those things too!

if you move rural, you want more of the objects where you ask yourself can you fix it yourself. we have to fix all our own machines if they break since warranties don't exist anymore, sears was the only one that used to come out but they don't really exist anymore. we had a relay on our Whirlpool washer machine go out so it was only filling 1/4 of the way so we had to wait about 3 months for a new board event though we just bought it and under warranty. there is no person who can come to service it here

Those gas bills can be pretty terrible. I moved south from Illinois, and not getting a $300 gas bill has been great

There is also the possibility of just eliminating most of the lighting circuits. I know my house has way more than is necessary because it was designed with 60 and 100 watt incandescent bulbs in mind rather than 5 and 10 watt led ones.

Yes. They are called tandem breakers. And they aren’t just for lighting. You can get 20 amp tandem breakers too.

They have a pretty high failure rate compared to typical breakers, 5-10 years instead of 50 years.

​@@herpnderpn2484 that is good qualifying information but for me, it would be way easier than adding a new breaker box or redoing but here before I'm ready to actually do some demo and tear into the walls to do a full rewiring. I didn't actually know these tandem Breakers existed until just now and I'm going through trying to fix some stuff before I'm ready to actually shut off my electricity and redo the whole house. Once I break into it I have to redo everything because it's a mixture of wiring that needs re-done anyway

We have 240 for all these appliances

We use split phase 240

Every home has 240v and these large appliances are 240v, almost universally. What we don't do is use 240v for things like toasters and hair dryers because there isn't any benefit in doing so, or at least, the benefits don't outweigh the costs.

@@kcgunesq We use 400v for large appliances in Europe. The bennefit is the lower current and with this comes a decrease in the thickness and mass of the cable and less wear for "clicky things".

@@fighter3823 And that is perhaps one of the primary reasons that Europe largely settled on 240v. After having to rebuild nearly everything following the war, higher voltages meant far less copper was needed. The downside is having to fuse each outlet or device in ways that the US system doesn't require.

have you figured out how to use a wok yet?