The thumbnail has had me in stitches! 😂

😂😂😂😂

😂😂😂😂😂

🤣😂🤣😂

@artisanelectrics does the customer get anything above you getting out of bed or is that it🤪?

100% agree

If the job is done correctly, what would your justification be for not signing it off?

And also, an electrician will know and follow the regulations that will make it as safe as possible. You're paying for a skilled person to do skilled labour

I've being doing this for over 30 years and I still find Nicks video's interesting it helps knowing what other sparks charge and I try to keep my prices inline with others. Don't do things for cheap always be fair as at the end of the day you have to make living

Get a grip, they literally put videos out explaining what they charge.

The thumbnail has had me in stitches! 😂

@@stevenhinchley3588 it’s all good fun lad 👍🏻

Just abit of banter mate

I’ve worked in London most of my time , I’ve worked all over uk , and Germany , and France .. ( now retired). Prices in London have allways been more ( a lot more).. it does not mean the sparks are better ,,greedy? That depends .. I did many houses huge ones in Hampstead. London some with 7 beds etc .. lots for the council last etc. concrete walls in my day we had chasers they came in before I did and chashed the walls. , some times I could pull thru on the old conduit ( imperial) . Sometimes the council woul not allow you to chase ( cost) you had to use mini trunking ..which looked horrible .. but you had to do a flat a day if it was mini trunking … a word of warning anyone who comes in to cheap be warned there not sparks … and you will pay a lot more later on …

It might depend on the type of housing - smaller rooms, lower ceilings etc. Having just renewed some lighting, the choice of mounted fixtures wasn’t very appealing here (UK) but I guess that’s personal taste. I have seen condensation issues in loft spaces where downlights are retrofitted without thinking about ventilation/extraction of moist air in bathrooms.

Why not put a price in to include variations ? Instead of A 6k rewire - a 10k rewire and have what you like .

yes mate per point

Selector

It wasn't just me, singing that in my head lol

Youre 100% right unless its a 1 point radial lol. 2 cables in the 25mm box seems to be too much if lip of box is too close to the surface!!

Yes, makes second fix so much easier. Necessary for any flat plate really. Haven't put any 16mm boxes in for years.

And 50mm for 3 gang single boxes for landing light switches with 6 cables in them!

yes mate drop me a whatsapp bud

I agree that if they are running CAT6 {should not be running CAT5 now anyway unless using CT clamp}. And use a real tester, crimper and CAT6 RJ45 jacks and CAT6 face plates. But also look into running all network connects into a 1U CAT6 patch panel. Then use an Ubiquiti switch {they are cheap but also I've used them small and large enterprises. If they only need a small Cable management => switch.

@@bofh139cat6 is serious over kill for a domestic property

yes mate we travel all over. drop me a WhatsApp mate

Cyes his pricing would be standard white fittings, if you want chone, black etc you'd pay etc as with usb or WiFi enabled too.... These can always be swapped out after either way though I'd go for the better ones for likes of kitchen, usb in bedroom and at least one in sitting room.... WiFi linked one for outdoor would be a fmgreat addition too for her washer, vacuum, Christmas lights etc

​@@almilhouse9059Why WiFi for outdoor? And what do you class as better for thr kitchen? Cheers.

You need a rewire mate?

I normally put a bit of bonding around the sockets for my benefit so I dont charge for that

yeah defo, drop me an email

Not at all, it would be cheaper as labour is saved mate

Does you Includes testing or not?

Good question

Does this sound OK? It seems far too cheap, but I did a 16 way fusebox board for £700. I don’t charge VAT on pricing yet.

yeah I think that pretty good mate, where u based?

@@NBundyElectrical I’m in Leicester but the job was in Milton Keynes only 35 minute drive down from here was just wondering. Next one I have figured out some mistakes I have made (not electrically - just basic errors on my judgement) that I’m dealing with now like not pricing in outside lights etc.. lol

Kitchen rewire in 2021 and cu upgrade to rcbos with testing and certification was about 2k, Chester area. As the customer i was very happy with the price, how the work was done, and would recommend the electrician without question.

Can't comment on the price being right without you saying how long it took you. 4300 is fine if you're done in 4 days. Not so fine if you're there 2 week.

Who said he travelles from London? 😂

He mentions London prices, but clearly states he is in Stafford.

he said £180 for cooker point i think

You can, as you say as long as they’re the sealed 10 year lithium batteries with interlink…..EI do some that work brilliantly. They’re expensive so wouldn’t bother if I was doing a rewire, but come in handy as a retro fit in a fully furnished house for example!

@@davecowan860 I was told to look into cavius, meant to be really good and plus saving on cable cost

Building regs told me no, I said I'd use radio link Acio, he said all alarms needed to be hard wired, might of been a jobsworth?

I was told hardwired interlinked only

@@TheGorillahands From what I understood when I spoke to Aico direct, their lithium radio linked detectors were designed to comply with building regs, but I’m not 100 % sure to be fair. I’ve never used them in a building regs scenario, only as a retro fit where access was difficult. If I was wiring an extension / new build I’d be running in cables anyway.

Maybe because they have more chasing to do for a deeper back box to accommodate the thicker USB socket and enough room for the cables to sit freely? I'm just guessing!

Also the usb sockets need to be tested separately and recorded on test sheet 😊

Antique brass double socket is around £10, antique brass usb c double socket is around £25. So yes, the £15 extra makes a lot of sense.

Strucrural engineer i think

@@kloddi25 Structural engineers may know, but Building Control won’t charge you & will go the extra mile to ensure you know what the Regs are

I cant understand how a KNX system will come in cheaper than a standard rewire. How would you design and price a KNX system for a standard three bed house 👍👍

@@karlbyrne1111 KNX can be wired from one device (sensor) to the next, with as many junctions as you like as long as you don‘t create a ring or exceed 700m. That means you have one green 30V cable per floor going from one room to the next and connecting push buttons, presence detectors, touch screens and whatever else you want to integrate (Sauna control, irrigation controller) And as it is 30V, you can do all this work without the danger of electrocuting yourself. That means you normally only put 230V for sockets & lights into the room. There you can use multi-wire (5x1,5) cabling to keep the number of cables to a minimum. A KNX Actuator has all the functionality built in, that would normally require timers & impulse switch and change-over-switching configurations. With KNX you switch the light with the actuator and never care about the sensor/button setup. With a blinds (or rolling shutters) actuator you can drive a whole front, with timer, multi-motor switching (groups) and blocking functionality (you sit outside, door open) all built in. No need for isolating relays or wiring from the door to the blinds motor. I hate when I see those moronic timers in every room at every single blind or shutter. You no longer need thermostats, as Pushbuttons normally have temp & humidity sensors. You only need one 230V cable and a KNX Cable to the underfloor heating distribution box. The actuator receives the room temperature digitally, instead of putting a (4 or 5 wire) 230V cable in every room to the room thermostat. I could go on and on. If you don‘t just do the bare minimum, but actually want some kind of modern, somewhat smart electrics, there is simply no better standard than KNX. You have all light & blind cables starting in the distribution box and wire the sockets like in a classic installation. All actuators sit in the same cabinet and allow for central control and maintenance. If you want to control stuff with a mobile or via speech, you connect the KNX system to the IP world, but it will also work flawlessly if it is just running locally. Given that it does not rely on IP, it is also more secure and never needs security fixes. (We do large office buildings, hotels and public buildings like train stations with this, so I might be biased!)

@@karlbyrne1111 You need a power supply & an IP Interface to start with. Cheap KNX push buttons (& presence detectors) start at 60 quid (90£) from „MDT“ and there is no limit at the top end (milled from a single sheet of brass or covered in leather from „Basalte“) A Siemens TC5 controller that would be a nice little display for the whole house comes in at around 280£. A Schneider KNX Touch 4“ is about the same. For everything else, I would probably use HomeAssistant or OpenHAB in a private property. There my house shows up as 1 KNX device with nearly 200 entities. Solid as a rock and as KNX has all components talking to each other, it does not matter if one device fails or the server is down. Everything else will just continue working… If you can import components from an EU reseller, a switching channel on an actuator is 20-25£, heating actuator is 40£ per circuit dimming is 60-70£, LED controllers can reach a 100£ or more. (Most UK shops add >50% margin compared to international prices, so that‘s actually a real „bummer“!) Yes. KNX is not cheap, but I am still doing maintenance for KNX systems that were installed 20 years ago and you can 100% rest assured, that you can still buy KNX components in 20 years from now. Most other (consumer retrofit) technologies will hardly last a decade and you will always need the latest standard to make everything work. So. Maybe you pay twice the initial amount with KNX, but you will not spend anything for the next 20 years… Where are you based? Maybe there is a showroom nearby. I can recommend the Jung Showroom in Clerkenwell, London There you can experience first hand, how a fully integrated KNX smart installation looks, feels and works.

I could never go back to working for someone ever, once you started by yourself, with the freedom and money that comes with it its a no brainer but a lot more stress mate

I've seen many in these cases just surface mount everything, trunking, surface back box and it obviously would be much quicker and no chasing.... looks terrible though

@@almilhouse9059 the last one we did, the owner battonend the walls and boarded so we just ran out cables surface then he boarded over.

Interlinking a smoke/heat alarm with a CO alarm is a no-no, because the action the householder needs to take is different according to whether it’s a smoke/heat alarm or a CO alarm that’s gone off. If they are interlinked you don’t know which alarm triggered the rest (i.e. whether smoke or carbon monoxide was detected).

@@jamesfrederick3107 That's the law in Scotland.

@@cjmillsnunWhat it actually says is “The new law in Scotland requires all homes (owned or rented) to have interlinked Smoke and Heat alarms installed. Where there is a carbon-fuelled appliance (such as boilers, fires and heaters) or a flue, then a Carbon Monoxide alarm is also required.” It does not say that the CO2 alarm needs to be interlinked to the Smoke and Heat alarms.

@@jamesfrederick3107 CO2 is carbon dioxide and not carbon monoxide (CO).

Which area and did they supply the materials?

If you have yourself set up to be on a terrible low wage for 4 years then go for it, you need to become a apprentice, get hired by a electrician company, college and on job training, it's tough work too

Most trades have adult apprenticeships and depending on your experience in the trade can be as short as working 6months with a tradesman and doing all tests for that trade in college. But depending on the college, the tests could be done at different intervals and still end up being over 3 years

@@HootMaRootThanks, I almost accepted the other reply and the defeatist attitude but then researched it properly. Seems you can find adult learning to do the level2 in as short as 7 weeks full time education or several months part time at weekends, they offer accommodation and home learning if needed cost between 2.5 and 3.5k. Should be enough to get started working to gain experience and then do level 3 and AM2 if you wanted.

Their is colleges that will do night school courses (not the best route if im being honest but if needs must) alot depends on how well you use tools really. Sounds daft but alot of people that haven't used tools alot don't realise its grafting physical work. Its also a very knowledge based trade Good luck if you do go for it though

I retrained when I was 27 & it took me 4 years & 4 months to get qualified. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made.

The real price is without VAT, since tradesmen have to give the VAT to the VAT man, including VAT is only the real price for the customer - so add it on yourself, come on, 20% isn't rocket science, double it, lose a zero 😂

Nailed it

@@Sydney268never heard “double it and loose a zero” trying to get my head round why that works 🤷‍♂️ thought most people just did 10% and doubled it. 17.5% used to be a head scratcher, 10% + half of that + half of that. Good old days 😂😂

3300 3 bed what? Terrace semi detached?

Half the price it should be.

maybe 3300 8 years ago it's defo not that now a days

My house has smokes on the hallway on each storey (3 storey house) when I do the kitchen I want to be able to have a heat alarm fitted, I was told I would need to have all new alarms a]fitted that interlink with the new heat alarm in the kitchen 🤔 am I getting my leg pulled ?

​@@kingofthetrowel1725Q. are your existing 3 alarms over 10yrs old?

@@loosecannon5813 the 3 alarms goT changed a few year back mate, but the bases are original as there the good old magnolia yellow colour 😂

@@kingofthetrowel1725I’m a spark living in probably the same build as your house so can answer. Your three existing will be interlinked by wire, to add the heat in the kitchen would be a pain to add to same circuit. Makes more sense to power the heat from the kitchen light circuit, this would mean it needs radio interlink rather than wired. Depending on your current alarms, they may or may not be compatible with radio interlink. If they aren’t, you need three new ones to go with the new heat, which are all radio interlink. Fit aico alarms, nothing other than aico.

If you're going to have a mixed wired X3 and radio link the heat you would only need to radio link to one of the smokes - It would in turn alert the other 2 smokes through the wiring

4mm is inadequate for a cooker circuit. It needs to be 6mm minimum. By the way installing a new circuit in a bathroom or kitchen, or changing a consumer unit, is Part P notifiable. The work must be done by a qualified electrician, or you will be subject to a £5,000 fine. It isn’t worth it.

25amp isn't much for a cooker and hob

You both obviously don't read the regs book

@@supersparks9466 the regs that say a 4mm in conduit can only carry 27amp? That regs book?

Who said anything about conduit? Install it by the regs for a 32amp breaker.

You don't have to watch it 😬

maybe some pole dancers or to make it really interesting some double pole dancers