I haven't used that specific connector before, but it does look a lot like the Canare BCP-B4F that I use. Are you using the official tool to strip the end? It almost sounds like the outer sheath isn't being stripped back far enough.

The stripper should be the same as 1505A if you're using Canare connectors, so the TS100U would work, though you'd likely need to adjust the depth of the blade for the outer sheath. In the case of 1505F, the proper Canare connector is BCP-A42, and the crimp die for that is TCD-31C. That's a different connector and die than the 1505A that I use and demonstrate in this video (which uses BCP-B4F and TCD-451CA). The crimp dimensions are different between the two. The sleeve on the 1505F is considerably wider than on 1505A. You wouldn't have good luck trying to use a crimp die made for 1505A on 1505F; it would crimp too tightly and likely damage the cable and compromise the electrical connection. I have not found a suitable third party crimp die for 1505F. And indidentally, Canare crimp dies only work in their own crimp frame; they don't fit the generic frames you find all over. If you're intent on using 1505F you should plan on investing in the official OEM tools, as expensive as that may be.

@@djp_video Copy. Thank you for that extra information. As I stated I wanted to use the 1505F for it's flexibility for shorter patch cables etc... I will probably stick with 1505A. Thanks again!

Loads of fun, isn't it. :)

The connectors should match the cable you’re using. For example, I use Belden 1505A cable most of the time, and the Canare BNC connector for that cable is the BCP-B4F. The type of cable will vary based on what signal you’re using and the distance it needs to be run. Again, from my example, Belden 1505A is typically made for permanent installation of 3G-SDI at up to 100 meters. 1505F is the more flexible variant of that. 1694A is a heavier duty that should give some additional distance, with 1694F being the more flexible variant of that. Both of these families of cables can be used for 6G-SDI or 12G-SDI, but in shorter lengths. Each cable manufacturer will have different cables for different applications, and the specific connector will vary based on which cable you select.

@@djp_video Hi Doug, thank you for your response. My company mainly supplies audio for live band performances and such, but from time to time I am asked to supply video to multiple projectors, LED monitors, etc. where I sub out that work. With that being said, I want to provide that myself. I was given a 500ft spool of Southwire Quad Shield 18awg RG6 3G Coax cable. I believe this is what is sold at local HD. For occasional setups I believe this is ok for me, but I'm confused as to what Canare, Neutrik or other connector termination to use for this particular cable. (BTW Neutrik is all I use for my XLR cables) Thanx Doug

If you're using hardware store coax cable, you should be able to find suitable (though not amazing) connectors at the same store. Trying to find matching connectors from Canare or Neutrik might require some trial and error.

Try this video: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/q2CGhml7hp1ylHU.html

If it works it works and will work for some time. These cables send digital signals so its on or off not much in between at all. Just make sure your crimps are solid, a pull test is good to do as well.

I don't believe so

I've added another option. The crimp frame is pretty generic. There are many, many options available, but the available products change very frequently so it's hard to keep up.

There are cable testers out there, but the only ones that I've seen that are actually useful are really, really expensive. So I don't have one. And I haven't needed it. I've never in 15+ years had a cable using 1505A, 1694A, and the Canare connections ever act up or fail.

On the Paladin, .052 for pin, .255 for sleeve. I believe this to be true for both 1505a and 1694a.

You could get the inexpensive die linked in the description.

The connector goes between the foil and braid.

@@djp_video how is this done? I find that it's nearly impossible to twist the outer braid out of the way of the connector without also doing the same to the foil.

I usually rotate the whole end of the cable in circles a few times. The foil stays put on the insulator but the braid bends out of the way and makes room for the connector

Hey Doug, to add to this at 5:20 of the video: I am being told by a coworker that in order to put the connector on properly on this cable (1694A), I need to pull back both the braids and the foil together on the before I snap the connector in fully. In other words, fold the foil flat over the end of the connector (without bunching it up) and then the same with the braids. In many videos I’ve watched on the Internet of how to do this, I see the foil still laying untouched on the insulator after the connector snapped in and then the folded back braided go back laying on the connector before the ferrule gets crimped. I have found it difficult to fold the foil back to lay it over the connector. I keep squishing it down where I have to start all over. Which way is correct or does it even matter? I understand that some clients have different standards of how cables are installed. Hope this makes sense, Thanks.

There's a good chance of it. Clip off the bad end and take a look at the cable to see if it still looks good visually. If so, add a new end and test it.

www.canare.com/UploadedDocuments/Crimp_Die%20Spec.pdf

.176 for 1855a .255 for 1505 and .278 for 1694. These are die sizes for mostly kings or ADC connectors. Canare is pretty expensive connector

www.canare.co.jp/en/catalog/docs/26E/Canare26E_Eng.pdf See Page 49

You'll need to select a connector based on the type of cable you're using. I highly recommend Canare connectors, but Neutrik's are really good too. Visit their websites to see which of their connectors are compatible with your cable.

I'd recommend visiting Neutrik's website to see which connector works for your specific cable. www.neutrik.us/en-us/neutrik/products/bnc-connectors/bnc-cable-connectors

The blade depths are adjustable if you aren't getting clean cuts. Use an Allen wrench to move the blades up or down as needed.

Do you know if clockwise or counter clockwise makes it cut deeper @@djp_video ? Also, I pulled a USMC thing overthinking. For anybody having trouble, it literally takes 5 turns, if you go over 10 you end up cutting through where you shouldn't causing you grief. literally only 5 turns or until you feel tension fade, like Doug said in the video.. if you do it a bazzilion times your going to have a bad day.

@@djp_video , is the copper in the middle solid or is it stranded? I had a couple of pins that wouldn't go on and the wires broke off in the pin trying to get it in. im assuming the F makes it stranded so its flexible.

The F version is stranded, the A is solid conductor

The Belden 1694 that I talked about in the video is an RG-6 type of cable. If you're dealing with hardware store RG-6, good luck in finding good quality connectors that don't fall off. The good quality name brands (Canare, Neutrik, Belden) don't make connectors designed specifically for "generic" cable like that. The good connectors are made for specific SKUs of RG-59/6 from the same manufacturers.

@@djp_video do you recommend a cramping tool ? There is three kind I found