Which splicing device are you using and why? I always appreciate the feedback as I am constantly learning new things no matter how big or small, and it can help the community here as well. Thanks a lot!

WAGOs, WAGOs, WAGOs...there is nothing better. Do not use 'knock-off' brands. WAGOs save time, are highly flexible (24-12 gauge, stranded and solid wire), saves space, easy adjustments, and are very secure (add elec. tape on levers if you're concerned with them lifting off). I rarely use traditional wire nuts anymore.

One correction: When you're talking about sticking a probe in the open terminal slot on that Ideal push-in connector: “You can actually stick a probe in there and test to see the ~~amperage~~” You probably meant *Voltage* because amperage would require either an in-series measurement probe or multimeter in Ammeter mode, *OR* a non-contact coil type ammeter that wouldn’t require contacting the metal at all (e.g. Fluke Ammeters with the “crab claw” current sensing loop that clips around a current-carrying conductor.

If you want to avoid having the Wago lever pop open when inserting it into a box you could place a wrap of electrician’s tape around the device to hold all levers in place.

The Wago connectors are great. I started using them a couple of years ago and won't look back. I've also got in the habit of putting a Sharpie dot on the lever of LINE (as the others will be LOAD), and a mark on the LINE wire as well. This is especially useful in junction boxes where you may have multiple LOAD wires running out of the box. Takes a few seconds, but saves time down the road if you ever open the junction box back up.

In Germany we exclusively use the WAGO push in connectors since at least 30 years without problems. I think WAGO were the first one on the marked with those. The wago lever connectors are very handy when connecting solid to stranded wire, for example when connecting a light fixture (there are also WAGO 224 connectors especially for this usecase which I highly recommend). Also intersting: In Germany WAGO connector is a synonym for the push in types not the lever ones since they are uses for a long time.

As someone who got their electrical contractor license in 1970, over time you can get arthritis in your hands from constantly twisting wire nuts. The WAGOS are the answer and so much easier to work with. I’m old school, but now I won’t use anything but genuine WAGOS.

Great presentation. Only thing I would add is one of the reasons the wire nuts are so popular is they fit a wide variety of joints, including different wire gauges and a variable number of conductors. I think the red wire nut you showed us is the Ideal 452, which can connect a minimum of 2 18 AWG wires, and a max of 4 10 AWG connectors, according Ideal's web page. Also, I learned a trick from your presentation which is after pre-twisting the wires and prior to installing the wire nut, you cut the ends of the connectors flush so the nut grabs the connectors easier. Many a time I've had to try several times to start the wire nut because I didn't do this. Awesome video!

Thanks for the knowledge your giving for doing little things that need done safely around the house.

I gotta say, once I started using WAGOs I couldn't go back to anything else. They are just too useful, easy, and reusable. Love the test holes, too. I've twisted my last wire-nut :-). I think the WAGOs are also superior to the push-in connectors... with the push-in connectors its often too easy to ride the contacts up onto the insulation without realizing it. And as you noted, with the WAGOs you can see everything that is going on and verify (before or after installation) that everything is good. Sometimes I put one or two wraps of electricial tape around the WAGO, but most of the time I don't bother. And sometimes I put a few wraps of tape around the wires a few inches away from the WAGO to reduce strain or simply to keep the collection of wires together. The wire-nuts work well but its harder and harder to find quality wire-nuts. In fact, I began looking at alternatives when a batch of wire nuts started to break on me just while I was twisting. I think that's my biggest issue with wire-nuts these days. The quality has gone to hell. -Matt

I love Wagos from my old industrial days. We used Wago Terminal blocks and they saved so much time for wiring control panels. The lever things are super cool. I discovered them doing a project on my van. Super easy for stranded wire. And multi size wire applications you will run into with RV stuff. I had a weird box that when I was jamming wires into I kept unlocking levers. So I did a wrap of electrical tape for safety and all is good in the world.

Exactly the answer I was hoping to find! Was looking for a way to combine three sets of wires in my rv that has a very small space. Never heard of a WAGO but looks like the exact piece I need. Thanks for posting!

I started using the lever wagos in the rv service last year. Love them . Great for the stranded wire we use.

Been using wagos for about a year now, no issues. I do wrap them in electrical tape if there is not a lot of room, just to make sure they stay closed. All residential use. Worth every penny

Informative video. From the video plus reading some detailed comments, I have gathered that wagos would be best suited when installing light fixtures, something stationary, not with something that vibrates. As an older female DIYer that has changed out many a light fixture and have a few more planned for the future...the wagos will be on my list to buy! I never feel that I get the screwed on one's tight enough so I wrap electrical tape around them...then it's a real pain to get them back in the box! Thanks for the pros and cons on all of them!

Huge thank you! For many of us electrical work is a mystery, great to learn from you.

Very well done video, thorough and direct with great visuals so viewers can see exactly what you are talking about. Thanks! I'm new to the non-wirenut solutions but I've opened up too many boxes to find wires have slid out of their wire nuts. Pushing wires into a crowded box makes it way too easy for the wire nut to separate from the wires. The connection still "works" because the wires remain in contact, but it's an accident waiting to happen.

Excellent review of the three devices, I am still a wire nut guy, but have seen problems from stranded #12 and #10 not making good contact. I like to pretwist the individual stranded wire in the same direction as the wirenut with my lineman's pliers to get a better grip. As with fake Wago's, i will never use the cheap Chinese twist-ons that come with light fixtures, ceiling fans, etc. Ideal or 3m are the only ones that should be used, as they have good spring force, and high temperature plastics.

I've used the WAGO connector for a few motorcycle farkles (aftermarket add-ons). they worked very well, especially when I wanted to add another connection. (Pull the 2 connector, switch to a 3)

they also have high heat wire nuts made of ceramic for specialized applications, like ovens / other appliances that get hot near glow coils or igniters along with the wires usually covered with heat resistant shielding like fiberglass

Your videos are great! Straight to the point and yet very informative. Thanks again!

WAGOs are awesome. I use them all the time in my ceiling fixtures. Makes wiring so much easier. That being said, I still use wire nuts for switches and outlets. It is trickier to join stranded with solid but if the stranded wire leads the solid, the stranded will stay inside the wire nut during a pull test.

Wirenuts have been around for a long time and proven very good. I tested some over 50 years old rigid wires connections with wirenuts and they were still excellent, pre twisted wires the better. On the other hand, almost every connection using wirenuts older than 10 years with the mix of rigid and stranded wires were completely loose probably due to metal fatigue I believe. We can see this situation with thermostats, baseboards and convectors, those units are supplied with stranded wires and the house wires are rigid. So every time I see this situation, I re-strip the wires and change the wirenuts with Wago 221. These Wago 221 are also great for light fixtures since they are easy to disconnect and re-use without damaging the wires.

very informative and clearly explained about issues you might encounter when working with these connectors.

I like the Wago connectors for putting in smart home switches or light fixtures since they normally have stranded wire. For electrical outlets, I will use wire nuts.

Looks like you could also put a turn of good electrical tape around the Wago to keep the levers from flipping. Wagos are also great when connecting stranded wire to solid core. I also like Wagos to extend leads in boxes that previous DIY'ers clipped the leads too short. That said I always keep a box or two or "wire nuts" around, too. I prefer the Scotch-Lok type.

I recently bought some wago lever connections and I thought about buying some knock offs but decided saving a few bucks is not worth starting an electrical fire or short something out. They were great!

Thanx for the simple explanation of the pros and cons. I accidentally purchased some push on’s thinking they were Wago. I feel confident now I can use them for my DIY light install. Be Safe!!

Great video as always! You mentioned about the Wago lever possibly coming open when pushing back into the electrical box or opening, can you just put electrical tape over them? This would prevent the from happening possibly?

Very interesting. Good information. A great follow on video to this would be to connect two sets of wires, of the same size, one WAGO, and one Wire Nut, and then run say 20AMP through them for some time and measure the temperature of each. The WAGO says it is good up to 30AMP so that should handle most normal household connections. A video showing a test of temperature would be very interesting.

Haven't gone through comments, but it seems like a simple "prevent lever flipping open" option would just be 2 wraps of electrical tape around the body/levers when done, prior to inserting into box (still keeping thumb on it also of course while pushing in as a safety factor), wrapping tight onto the wire insertion side, thus keeping the levers down and/or preventing anything sliding up under them in the first place.

I’m really glad that I stumbled onto this video well spoken and understanding great information and I will continue to tune in and learn all the knowledge I can awesome job. Thank you.

You have a knack for explaining and an easy-to-listen to style. You'd be a good, professional teacher at a tech school. Thanks for the video ! .

I use wire nuts or DIN rail terminal blocks. Have used nut, bolt, & rubber tape on some lugs too. Wire nuts always get a good wrap of electrical tape though. No matter how good of a job you do, heat cycles and vibration can and will cause problems. The accidental opening of Wagos can also be solved with electrical tape. Just be mindful of install location due to the messy goo electrical tape can create.

Those push ins are especially handy when someone cuts short the wires and you don't have much length to work with outside the box.

As another person mentioned, taking a small wire tie and wrapping around the Wago to keep the levers from flipping open, as well as doing the same around the wires an inch or so down from the Wago can insure a safer set up. If using 2 Wago's, put them back to back levers facing each other and wire tie.

Good to get the pros and cons on these various connectors. Thank you!

I think part of the reason that the Wago connectors are more popular in Europe than the USA is because AC in homes is 220V in Europe vs 110V in the USA. Higher voltage for the same wattage means that the amperage will be lower in Europe than in the USA, and, for a given resistance, you get more heat generated with higher amperage. So in the USA, where devices will draw higher amperage, we need to optimize connectors for minimal resistance to avoid heat. As you stated, with a properly installed wire nut, you can have more surface area and less resistance in your connection. In general, this is a great video, and I think you give people good advice. In my house, I've been slowly replacing older LED cans with halogen bulbs to LED lighting over time. The LED lighting draws significantly lower current. Whoever installed some of the can lights 15 years ago did a terrible job with some of the wiring. I've found several lights that didn't work because the wire nuts weren't installed properly, and the lights stopped working due to faulty connections and open circuits. As I've been replacing these with LED lighting, I've mostly used WAGO connectors because I don't like being up on a high ladder fumbling with overhead wiring in the ceiling. Since the new LED lighting uses less current, it's OK if the WAGOs might have a little bit more resistance than an optimally-installed wire nut. I think your AVERAGE WAGO install will probably have lower resistance than an average wire nut install with wires that aren't perfectly spliced. When I'm doing this up on a ladder and reaching up inside a lighting can when some wires are a little short, I think I might not do a perfect job with wire nuts every time. So it's nice to use a WAGO and get the job done faster with, in my opinion, less probability of installer-error.

I am a licenesed electrical contractor and I use the Ideal push-in connectors whenever possible for residential work. Saves time and are safe to use. But I'm an electrician who relies on data, not anecdotes, tradition, and superstition like a lot of electricians.

I was taught to use splicing with wire nuts and still use to this day. For residential and especially remodeling with limited wires I love using wagos

These things rock! The best thing for me is a cleaner fit inside of the junction box!! The ability to connect many lines is a big plus!! Thank you Wago….

Never had issues with genuine Wago’s. You can also wrap tape around if you are worried about a lever opening. You can also get high current Wago’s.

I usually use wire-nuts for my purposes but recently replacing a ceiling light with a fan, the wire run was very...very stingy and the box very tight where I did not trust there to be enough room for all the wire-nuts, and the ceiling fan was stranded wire. I went out to get some Wago connectors -- first time to use them -- and was greatly impressed by how easy, foolproof and compact they are. But for outlets and junctions where current draw could be anywhere up to the breaker limit for an unknown amount of time, I'd still trust wire nuts. Light switches and ceiling outlets with a low known load, Wago is a good alternative.

I've found that the Wago lever lock are great also in low voltage work as well. It's much easier to trouble rs485 loops when you can connect and disconnect a single loop without bothering the rest.

Those Red 3m or Ideal Wing Tip Scotch Locks Wire Connectors are MY preferred method of making good solid wire conductor splicing connections and has been for many many decades ! I'm a State Licensed Journeyman Electrician / Sub Contractor with over 55 years in the trade ! I also use the Yellows, Grays, & Blues when required !

In the late 1990s I took a full time job with a Children's Hospital as a Plant Engineer. It was a brand new facility with state of the art technology even in the walls. I was tasked with designing and building a workshop for the custom wheelchair department. I really liked the Receptacles that had a built in pigtail that plugged into a socket installed on the wiring at the electrical boxes by electrical contractors that wired the entire Hospital. At the time there were no Wagos, Ideal push locks only wire nuts an this new system that was installed. I have used the Ideal style for my own home and have yet to have any issues. much cleaner than wire nuts. I have over the course of 32 years wired many control centers, motor control panels with din rail systems with push lock termination terminals along with spring lock terminals for low voltage communications and control wiring. I have used Wagos a few times but always worried about the latches opening upon moving wires around. So currently I use the Ideal connector and wire nuts for loose stranded wire at light boxes for light fixtures.

Im just a DIY guy. I only use the wagos for connecting stranded to solid wire like when installing a light fixture. Other than that, it’s all wire nuts. I feel like they can handle more amps because of how much more contact the wire has like you said. Great video. Thanks.

Great video, very informative... I just wish I'd seen it last year. Now I have to buy some Wagos and re-wire my bunkhouse. I've never really trusted my wire nut skills, to be honest. Keep up the great work!!

In UK been using WAGO connectors for years, seen a number of tests done on them and they can handle way more amps than they are actually rated for, never seen any issues of overheating, the resistance between the connections is extremely low, in the UK we have a lot of testing even with using a lot of these in a circuit the resistance is less than 0.001 ohms.. Because we also have electrical inspections that require the conductors to be separated WAGO's make this so much easier, because of this and for fault finding most electricians in the UK hate when people twist the conductors together as it can weaken the copper when you then have to un-twist... Every time I see twisted earth conductors (we call it cpc), I cut them off and reterminate using a WAGO... A lot of people were sceptical at first and used what we had for years connector blocks, but now almost everything is push inconnectors or WAGO style connectors, they cost a bit more but the time they save ofsets this, I guess it will just take time for people to come away from old habits... I want to say they are the future but in the UK an Europe we have been using them so long they are the standard, you can always tell a DIY job as they don't use WAGO's as they come in larger boxes...

Wire twist, solder, then tape or wire nut is the way they used to do it, would last 70+ years. I love the wagos….awesome for remodeling and retrofit, indispensable for light fixture going from braid to solid without having to fight to get it right.

I have been using the WAGO splicers and LOVE them! No messing around, and I am not using crazy voltage, so No heating up as well! I use Mostly strand wire and have had No problem with anything coming loose. I am also thinking of Kalolary Wire Connectors, but need them with 3 holes, not just 2. So far, I am staying with the Wagos.

Are the inline connector by wagu good for extending wires? I have a outdoor outlet that needs to move 8". The wires reach it through 1/2" conduit. I intended to cut the conduit/wires in the middle, add 8" of conduit/wire, connect that new 8" section with either crimp/shrink connectors on both sides. Now I'm envisioning using the inline connectors, in a staggered formation with the other wires, so that they all fit in the the narrow conduit.

In Switzerland we use Wagos since ~1980 everywhere and i have never seen a burnt wago connection.

Have you ever seen the "old school" set screw type wirenuts? 3 pcs- a brass sleeve with a set screw in it, and a separate cover. You put the wires inside, tighten the setscrew, then screw on the plastic top. A couple of issues with them- the plastic cap is rigid, like bakelite, and breakable. They also unscrew. We used those exclusively at one place I worked. More labor, and we ALWAYS wrapped them with tape.

Great video thank you for the insight! These jobs and work are hard! Thank you for taking the time to help educate people to make them more self reliant! Cheers!!

I love the Wago lever connectors.

I'm no electrician, but I feel a LOT better about homeowner stuff like light fixtures and whatnot using the Wago vs old school wire nuts. You never know for sure what's going on inside a wire nut. With the Wago you can see, hear and feel the connection.

I prefer the wire nut, if you pretwist the wires together you can make sure you have a good solid connection. At that point the wire nut is more of an insulator. Also you mentioned the downside of wirenuts is the more wires you put in a wirenut the bigger it needs to be, of course that is true but most electrical codes will only allow you to put a certain number of romexes in a box. In my state, in a standard size single gang outlet or switch box, you can I put 3 14/2 romex cables in it or 2 12/2 romex, in a deep box you can put 4 and 3 respectively. Of course that's different in a multi gang switchbox but then you generally have more room for a larger wirenut.

I have been using Wago for 3 years and I love it. As many here have suggested when you are in a junction box or have a risk that the levers will pull up. You just wrap around with electrical tape to keep them in place.

Like working with the Wago, as you mention about the tab lever accidentally lifting, I use electrical tape to hold down tabs. Thanks

The Wago 221 are hands down the best connectors u can buy. They can't be beaten in terms of convenience, practicality and size. The only downside I have encountered is that there's a max of 5 slots, but that can be easily solved with another wago and a jumper. Even price I feel is not really a factor coz as a DIYer u probably won't use so many that u will feel the pinch(small assortment packs can be had for less than 20 bucks easily) , and as a professional u just price it in to the job. There were many times I felt like cheaping out on a job and using cheap connectors instead of my Wagos and on the handful of occasions I do, every single time I regret it because the money saved is never worth the time wasted.

I've been using Wago clamps for over four decades. Tens of thousands of them. No connector has ever failed. Not a single one. I've seen a lot of melted or defective imitations, but never a Wago terminal with problems.

Hello 'How To Home.' Yesterday I used Wago Lever Nut connectors for L.E.D. tail lights on a trailer. The wires were short, and only three fingers could fit in the enclosure. Also, auto captions work good in your video. Cheers!

I'm a Master electrical and have been in the field for 35 years, the lever nuts are best for mechanically holding the conductors in place, also very good for speaker wire in low voltage. Tape on the lever nut is a good install.

When using wire nuts, I tug on the wires to be sure they have a good connection before adding a couple more twists.

WAGO also has push ins that are smaller than the push ins you show. Very useful for overly full boxes. Usually I use those, unless if I have either stranded wire, or if I know I need to disconnect still (either temporary or often changed connections) The nuts I rarely use anymore. Good for very high current, but too easy to accidentally get wrong, and too much space.

I use WAGO mostly now. Thanks I learned something so it's a good day.

Never knew about wago, thank you. I do my own work in my old houses. my dad was an electrician and taught me to pre-twist the wires and tape them.-but it is a bit hard on my hands especially when I’m working with 12 gauge in the kitchen with multiple wires. Also saves from having to cut the wires shorter every time.

I absolutely love the wago connectors. One thing I do though if I'm working in a tight area, I'll wrap a piece of electrical tape around it to hold the levers down.

Both options are good. Wire nuts put on correctly are incredibly strong, and also cheap and widely available. True Wagos are also good and reliable, easy, but also more expensive and not as available and flexible with regard to how many wires they accept.

I love these Wago connectors! I installed a new outlet, a fancy floor mounted flip up unit, and had to join stranded copper to solid copper, and did not want to use a wire nut. I found these on Amazon and am not looking back. I ordered two kits.

I’ve used wire nuts for years, that’s what I was taught to use, always use the tug test to make sure the wire nut has connected. The guy who taught me how to use wire nuts preferred the soft 3M ones verses the hard plastic ones. I was taught in the mid seventies

Wago is producing push ins and levers for a very specific reason. The push ins are used when using solid wires which usually are not serviced because they are in wall. They have the lowest foot print and even if you need to connect a lot of wires it's possible in very little boxes. The lever ones are for elements where potentially a non electricians needs to access and exchange elements, eg light fixtures or fan outlets, or other situations where you need to interconnect stranded wires with either stranded or solid wiring. So it's not a question of either push ins or lever ones, it's a question of where you use which type, but always use Wago brand ...

I've had too many issues with either crappy wire nuts (no metal insert) or not being able to get a good connection between solid and stranded wire. Switched to Wagos for a project where I knew there wasn't going to be much room in the box and they solved both issues (size and mixed media) so I'm a believer.

I have been using the push in type connectors for my DIY projects. I find them easier to use & fit into tight boxes than wire nuts. After watching this video I will try the Wago type because I like that they can use solid wire & stranded wire. I also like that they can be opened up if you need to change things, with the push type I have to cut them off & throw them away. I think that the simplest solution to the possibility of the levers getting flipped open would be to wrap around the levers with electrical tape.

Have a WAGO 221 in hand. It is rated 20 amps @ 300 V. I have not used it at that rating. A company I worked for used the DIN rail mounted WAGO connectors on crawler mounted mining machines. The connectors were reliable in that high vibration use, mostly 24 VDC. That gave me confidence in the actual connection technology. Easy to use and inspect. Can insert wire and make connections with one hand with WAGO 221. I am a retired Electrical Engineer, still keeping my P.E. license active for one more 2 year cycle.

I am working in Germany and most used are the push-in types followed by lever operated like the wago 221. Wirenuts are extremly rare. But there are huge differences in quality, i prefer Wago for both. My experience with wirenuts comes mostly from machines made in the USA or China, and in my experience they are one of the most common point of failure in wiring, they seem open up under vibration. Very important for push and lever operated devices is that the inserted wire is straight, to make a good contact. Here I see the problems in the US. When replacing a wirenut by one of those the used cable from a nut is bent, which might cause poor contact.

47 years ago I had to instal a lot of ballasts in old live fluorescent lights in a department store during store hours ( i wasn't allowed to turn the power off ) what fun it was to see wire nuts that were loose and fell off or dried up and cracked ! Never ever install wire nuts without also wrapping them with some High temp electric tape to help insure that the wire nuts stay on ! I never used Wagos but perhaps you can also give them and the wires leading into them a wrap of tape !

I've used those ideal push-ins for running can lights. They aren't super expensive and they are fast and take up less space when you have a weird junction. Braided doesn't work easy with them, but you can use a small wire nut and a solid pigtail to the connector to the actual fixture. While that may seem counter-productive, if you have to disconnect the fixture for some reason, it's a braided and solid under each nut. So you aren't having to deal with every other wire running through that box all under one massive nut.

20+ year electrician here and I have to definitely say wire nuts all the way with proper twist from linemans. The push in connectors are DEFINITELY the worst, I retro fitted literally tens of thousands of commercial fluorescent fixtures in my time and found so many issues from them (mainly cause of user instal) . Wagos are good but I still feel I don't get that super tight connection as with my nuts lol😅

I've been using Wago connectors for quite some time now, I haven't had any major issues with them. I use them quite a lot when transitioning between solid and stranded wires just because it is pretty much "id10t" resistant. Majority of the failures I find in the repair field melted wirenuts caused by bad connections on solid to stranded transitions and one failure of a Wago caused by water intrusion, not the failure from the product itself. Also, I work on quite a lot of telecom equipment which is dominantly DC powered using stranded wire and the usage of wirenuts are an absolute no no. Not sure if they're rated for DC applications, but I've used them for my 52 volts DC nominal circuits derating the ampacity of the nominal wire size by 60% for continuous duty applications and haven't seen any signs of thermal stress the last time I checked it with a thermal camera.

The main criticism I’ve got with this video is that there is no testing to back up your opinions. In the UK we don’t have wire nuts (that I know of) so I can’t comment, but we use Wago’s extensively and I’ve had no issues with them (industrial maintenance). I’ve seen tests where they will withstand much higher currents than stated without heating up excessively, and they save so much time as well as providing a reliable and re-useable connector. They will always remain in my toolbox

Very complete and clear. Thank you.

I have learned to love wago lever nuts. I never did like the twist ons. I was a telephone tech and took off so many!

I work as a commercial food service and refrigeration service tech, I think you nailed most of the pros and cons of all of these. I would like to addto what you said, my experience with wagos is that the heat can be a problem at least from the equipment I work on but another larger problem I have seen with the wago connectors is if they loosen even a little from say vibration from a compressor, a fan motor, or the equipment just getting moved around they can melt just like any loose connection, I think that it happens because they vibrated against something and popped the lever up but it is hard to say because by the time I arrive all that left is melted plastic. I think that it is kind of funny because with the push for HC refrigerants (all of which are flammable) some manufacturers have started using these because they are "spark free" but I find them melted off with alarming regularity the most recent of which melted the plastic electrical box off the back of a refrigerator and the fire department had to come out, also brand new under warranty. Sorry for the long post but for the work I do I don't like them but I can see why someone would.

It seems you had to apply some extra force to unlock the Wago 221. I would have to think, if the lever flipped open. The electrician was jamming 5lbs into a 1lb bucket. I'm excited to try the WAGO. Looking them up... you can buy a big set of WAGO...2 - 5 pin. where as the wire nuts in bulk you will pay a lot more

Great Video! You are a great communicator!!

Why no mention of alumiconn connectors? I would be interested in your opinion of those.

Great video. Any potential heat buildup is a deal breaker. The issue with wire nuts for me is just training. Don’t overcrowd and so on.

I always pre-twisted my wires when using wire nuts to make sure the connection was secure. But others are correct, 2-3 wires at most usually. I use the Wago's these days. So nice for replacing or reworking a box.

Good info on wagos and wire nuts 👍. I use electrical tape on the 221 over the flaps in in tight areas. In the electrical field(commercial)we use wire nuts. Wire nuts are cheaper. Depending on certain applications we use wagos when we need to add more lighting/devices into a junction box.

I just got some Wago 221s. They're just so much easier for wiring than the wire nuts if you mess up and have to redo something.

Great video and explaining the pro's and con's of the different spicing options. I do have a question, and I am not an electrician, but I have changed out light fixtures, switches, etc. My question is can the Wago's be used to splice aluminum and copper together? Not so much in receptacles but more in light fixtures and I know that copper and aluminum won't play nice if they are not connected correctly with special paste or those purple Ideal wire nuts used for connecting the two.

The wirenuts are the best if you pre twist the wires like you suppose to

thewire nuts are great if you only have 2 or 3 connectors that have not been work hardened. reworking an old box with nuts is a nightmare if they have been pretwisted and there is not enough spare wire to be able to trash the ends. That can be a lot of rewiring and dry-walling just to fix what could have been a minor problem. It is a pity no one imports the stuff they use in the uk. screw held slots in lumps of brass. all tested to 600 volt and 100 amp.

Thanks Adam. In some European countries they can use only the WEGO style connector. Wire nuts are not allowed. But as the power there is 220VAC, the current used is going to be less than in the USA, which goes along with your preference for using WEGO connectors for low current use.

Could you tape around the wagons and slip in connectors for more security?

There’s a use case that you didn’t mention for WAGO connectors. Dissimilar metals. Many newer budget light fixtures come with tinned or aluminum stranded wiring. Rather than having to add bonding paste it’s pretty much a no brainer

Wago push-ins are cheaper than the 221s and are sufficient for most connections. Especially if you just have solid core for house hold cabling. Also they are a bit smaller for tight spaces. I never used wire nuts and I've never seen them in Germany.

great info, great shirt~ thanks for backing the Blue!