I only watched a few minutes and I noticed that you did not warn people that when checking AC voltage on a wall outlet, you should insert the neutral lead (black) first in order to avoid having live current on the other (red) lead. Maybe you mentioned it later, but I think that the safety warning should be the first thing that is mentioned. It also can't hurt to warn people that an improperly wired AC outlet could have the neutral and hot cables reversed, so they need to be careful with the leads regardless of how they are inserted.

Thank you for this video, you are articulate and clear and just the right amount of safety warnings, this is an awesome start to working with meters! at 41 minutes I came in thinking I was never going to make it through, and yet breezed through the entire thing. Now subscribed and looking forward to more content.

excellent. learned SO much. thank you for your precision. right to the point without useless comments, camera work excellent. you are a great teacher!

Very practical video...both products have their respective uses. I don't need a Fluke and now I know why...I was thinking of buying one. Thanks Daniel

Great video! Thank you for this refresher on meters.

@1:00 Comparison of cheap multi-meter vs expensive one @3:30 Overview of how a multi-meter works @9:25 DC/Voltage : Battery @11:08 Ohm/Resistance/Conductivity : Metallic tape (Note: He said keep everything where it is, but you need to switch it to Ohms. What he meant was, keep the leads plugged in where they are) @15:00 Measuring AC/Voltage: Outlet. @19:40 Continuity: Circuit Board @22:22 Ohm/Resistance: Water/Saltwater @27:33 Continuity AND Ohm/Resistance : Light bulb @34:45 Current AC/Amps : Toaster (10 Amps Setting) (Changing Red Probe to Amps Side) Hope this helps as it was a bit confusing for me to watch as a beginner.

Excellent tutorial and demonstration of differences between process meters and it’s great that you had fun with it. Very good balance of information and entertainment.

Perhaps the best multimeter tutorial. Enjoyed a lot ,Thank You

Thanks for this vid! I am testing everything around me !!

Thank you for taking the time to give us this tutorial.

I am a self-taught electronics enthusiast and many of the stuff covered resonates with what I have done. I have handled separate meters and analog multi meters including the bulky VTMM like the RCA WV 98C. I will welcome tutorials on fault tracings

This is a great video, I couldn't have explained it better.. I can practically smell the toast. Kudos.

Very well done, thank you. Also, excellent warning about dangers of amperage.

Perhaps the best multimeter tutorial. Enjoyed a lot☺️☺️

Thanks for a very informative video. I also like the fact that you emphasized the safety on the current.

Thank you for the info. I'm a professional handyman and was embarrassingly ignorant as to all the different functions and uses of my multimeter (same craftsman) also am convinced to upgrade to a better unit. Very informative and greatly appreciated

What a great teaching video...I will watch it again just to get it all down pat. Thanks!

It was a good video and I've learned a lot I will watch it again several more times to make sure I understand it

Awesome Video man, Very informative. Well Done!

Wow Thanks for the Tutorial, I just bought my new multimeter and the settings aren't clear, but you explain in such a way I can figure it out. Very Nice Video!!

I am so glad I read the comments below B4 watching the video. Saved me time and maybe a little more.

Very well done Daniel. You kept it informative and interesting. You threw a great learning curve into it. Thank you and stay well.

Thank you for your inputs and demo, good information, I will forward and share the link to my very special friend in Denmark. If this knowledge from this video.....dealing with electricity and safety is applied- it could very easy become a cooking show to yourself and to the multimeters you are using

Thanks Dan, this is the best multimeter tutorial video I ever watched! Thanks for your time for making such an awesome video!

Very helpful and informative Thank you

From the first few "best multimeter tutorial" videos this actually stands out, easy to follow, simple yet entertaining, adding experiments is brilliant idea, thank you.

Well done video. No Ahs or Ums and memory gaps. Well spoken and fluid.

I have that exact Craftsman meter; will be upgrading now. Thanks for a great tutorial.

On the AC voltage test the cheap DMM should have shown the correct voltage on the 200 volt range. You could measure on both the ranges. The Sears meter was defective and should have been returned.

I've used multimeters for years, but you taught me something today. Thanks

Excellent!! Great explanation of use!! Big help!!

Dan, even 8 yrs later, you are still teaching us how to properly and safely use our tools. I have been using meters for many years, but I still learn how to get more for my money, and save time too. Thanks for a great video Dan. New sub here.

The reason the 10A scale has a separate probe terminal is to avoid putting a mechanical switch in the high current path, because the current will pass through a very low resistance (say, 0.1 ohm), and a mechanical switch may introduce inconsistent resistance and lead to inaccurate measurement. It would also require a very beefy mechanical switch.

I recommend owning both meters. If you own a fluke you lend out the craftsman. Twice I had coworkers borrow and smoke my meters.

Thanks for the info. Very helpful

Used this video as the basis to check two fuses in an RV refrigerator circuit board. One was blown, one good. Replaced the blown one and my fridge was cooling my beer again. All in all, a good day.

Educational and funny, at the same time :)). Learned a lot, thanks.

TY for the vid!

Thank you. You are clear as the sun light. Profissional .

Excellent - I learnt a lot - Really helpful. Many thanks.......all the way from London !

Thank you for making this video! It has been such a pain to find a video that takes you through what a multimeters features are and how to use it in different ways.

Phenomenal video. Very informative. And the salt water drink was hilarious. Thank you!

Very clear excellent presentation. Thanks!

Great video I actually learned quite a lot and never lost intrest... nice work and thank you much

Just a note: The top pair of contacts (N. O.) are rarely, if ever, connected in any way with the bottom pair (N.C.). I guess it's a good idea to check them to make sure. This was/is an extremely good video on the different uses of your average Digital voltmeter (sometimes called a digital VOM ; Volt-Ohm Meter, or, DMM) Very good tips included. Well thought out in advance.

Besides auto ranging, one of the big differences between economy meters and high end meters like Fluke is Tru-RMS capacity. Cheap meters are only capable of accurately reading AC voltages in the 50- 60 Hz range. Tru-RMS meters will pick up AC voltage of any frequency. Additionally a frequency counter in the meter will be able to identify what the predominant Hz. is. While a modest meter is Adequate for most handymen, trained and skilled electricians and engineers will always reach for the expensive meters especially when dealing with complex power quality issues.

Thank god we have youtubers like yourself! best and flawless tutorial!!!! thank you!

I use Martindale MM39 (£25) for all fault finding. Just need Megger 1710 occasionally For RCD/IR/Zs etc.

Thanks, you probably saved my life! Replaced a kitchen outlet today & my circuit breaker labels are faded. I went to ACE hardware & got a Gardner Bender for $18. I had no idea how to use it. On the setting of 200, it showed a dead reading. I switched it to 500 & sure enough... 128 volts. The title of this video is correct! :)

What a great video, I learned a tone. Thanks.....

*26:08* I'm as excited watching this video as he was on his third *"That is nice"* when pouring the salt. 🤣😂 Great video. Thanks!!!!

It's an informative, educational and interactive! Thanks so much for sharing with us! We need to learn a lot from you.

At 1:45, you might not "damage" the meter, but you do have to know that the AMPS setting does have a "fuse" and it is best to start with the highest setting. Even then, if the current you want to measure is too high, you might also blow the fuse at the highest setting. BTW, it is best to have some spare fuses. They are generally 5 x 20 mm in size but it is best to check what you have installed.

I thought your last demonstration on current was good. Now I understand how a multimeter measures current.

I don't know anything about this stuff and the video was very educational! Thanks!!

Cool video, and I picked up some information I can use. Thank you Brother.

great Tutorial!

On the AC voltage mesourment you should always use the highest range and work down, this is because although you supply is 110v it will actually be anything between 95v and 140v if you test at different outlets you can see that you can have different readings, this is normal here in the UK we operate at 240V ac supply but that fluctuates any were between 230 and 250 v . The the outlet closest to the bracker box the test the outlet therthest away from the bracker box and you will see the one therthest away will have a lower voltage

This is probably the best multimeter video online.

Thanks Dan I have learn something else today, keep the good videos up!

Great video. One question...at about 10:00 in the video you are testing a 1.5 volt battery. With the Fluke tester it showed 1.27 volts and with the Craftsman tester it showed 1.61 volts. Why the big difference? Which is correct? Please advise. Thanks

Thanks for alot of useful info here but that Craftman meter was defective in the AC line voltage test. Consider revising that for the safety sake of newbies.

Thank you, you’ve helped clarify a few things while I’m learning

thanks for the lesson...

thanks bro..very informative😊

FYI: The reason a digital voltmeter reading tends to wander around its display is because the input AC voltage to it contains "transients" caused by switching, motor brushes in appliances, and tries to read these transients, which are quick and random, combining them with the reading desired, It does this due to the high sensitivity of DVM circuitry. This is especially true in a commercial and industrial environment. This is why many electricians also have an analog meter (the kind with a moving needle meter) to measure primary voltages, An analog meter does not have the sensitivity to be able to detect small transients, hence the reading remains more stable on the needle display, They both have their uses depending on application, the DVM preferred for critical measurements of transient free circuits and the analog meter for low impedance (primary power) circuits. They both have their places in electrical work.

Thanks, learn some new today, also entertaining, you have the heart of a teacher. Good luck to you.

Great video. Your wall socket test is very interesting. Other videos on UKposts suggest you don’t use a multimeter to check an appliance is off (dead). They suggest a 2 probe voltage tester, because a multimeter is more complicated and can be accidentally misused. But as you show the multimeter shows 25.6 volts on a faulty wall socket that a 2 probe voltage tester wouldn’t find.

18:31 Ghost voltage. Pretty common in house wiring. Multi-meters with a "Low Z" range can account for this when taking measurements.

17:24 Didn't you say something about not switching leads between meters ?

Please have a close shot on the circuit breaker finder you introduced so we can get detailed information if want to buy it.

Thanks Dan The Tech man, just subbed. Good stuff!

The 25.6 VAC that you read on the off circuit near 19 minutes is likely due to capacitive coupling with a nearby circuit. The total power it is able to deliver this way is very low. It is barely able to power your night light. Measure the voltage drop when you put a significant load across it (such as a 10 Watt light bulb). A modern DMM has super high impedance across the probes. It can measure voltages while drawing almost no power, so it can easily find ghost voltages that will disappear as soon as any significant load was puts. Still it's good to be sure before proceeding. I once measured 48VAC across the metal frame of a power supply I was working on. I assumed it was some problem with a long ground lead or something getting coupled with secondary of the transformer. So I grabbed the frame for a better look. 48 VAC hurts when it has a good source of current behind it! It turned out that an unused secondary tap on the transformer was shorted out with the frame of power supply and the frame of the power supply was not properly earth grounded.

If I can make a suggestion (as someone with something like a dozen scopes/DMMs), try them all with nice leads as well. Adding nice leads (I got mine from ProbeMaster personally) improved performance on every single meter/scope I own

Excellent tutorial. Quick and precise instruction.

Really useful video and very informative. Really the world's best multimeter tutorial!

For the record. The continuity test you mentioned is a great indicator. But for leads. Not the actual meter. I got a cheaper (but not crap) crampmeter that had static on the continuity test. Replaced it with a pair of Probe Master 8000 leads, and the difference was incredible. Many mfrs cut corners to lower prices, and the probes are often near the top of the casualty list. An upgrade there can make a $40 meter perform like a $100+ meter

the fluke showed the c batter as 1.27v, the craftsman showed it to be 1.6v. .3volts is a significant different for a "c" battery. so what was that about?

Good video, Thank you for sharing this.

You are not ashamed in your self , you use the word THE BEST in the world.

19:14 25.5v more than likely an induced voltage. If you had an old Simpson with analog meter movement and you had same voltage even if you switched scales then the voltage is real. If the voltage changes as scale changes then the voltage is induced. I hope this helps. Not enough space to get into electrical theory to explain induced voltage. Good video.

The best tutorial I have watched so far on this subject, brilliant, thank you for taking your time to make this video. I’m not quite sure what made you drink the Salt water though.

Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work, and always add more safety tips.

thank you very much, ! you make learning this stuff kind of fun, !

Hi Dan, there is much more important reason not to combine current measurement and V/diode/R in the same connector. Putting such meter in current measurement results in a low resistance set-up (to be able to measure currrent). If you measure, accidently, in that set-up the mains voltage, you short circuit the mains. A connector for V/diode/R only, provides you with a high resistance mesurement circuit in any set-up.

Wow, the 200 VAC range clearly should have worked. Huge design flaw.

Thank you, an education for me as not at all clued up on electronics and my recent purchase of a cheap multimeter left me thinking wtf did I buy this for? Can't justify a "fluke" as only using to test solar circuits. So video a great help

Thanks for the excellent video. You saved me $100 or so buying a $10 Elike meter as opposed to a Fluke. Obviously I'm a beginner.

Switching probes on a multimeter is not a problem. What the user has to understand is that a chain is as strong as its weakest link. If a user uses a lesser class probe on a higher class current reading meter, the are subject to the limitations of current rating of the probe. While a meter might handle a high current load, a cheap probe might not. It is important to understand when and when not to use different probes.

29:05 - Nice going. You launched 2 of my nukes. Also, 120V reads 0V? That's not bad design, that's LAWYER design. "Your honor, my client can no longer be around power outlets without screaming. We demand 1 Billion dollars!"

Thanks for this.. I have the red multimeter and learned a lot about how to use it, in particular testing a 12v battery! Thanks!!

thank you for that video... just saw it - do you know how to measure (using a multimeter) the distance (approximate) out to a broken wire, some older phone guy once showed me but I forget, he used some formula with his multimeter.

My speaker was not working after trying two brand new Amps so i took it apart to see if a fuse had blown in the power supply. in order to test that i needed to buy a Multimeter. I bought one from wal-mart for $20 bucks. I used the Continuity test to check the fuse and yes 2 fuses have gone bad (N-Channel MOSFET part # FSA10N60A Rated at 600v 10A) I didn't any beeps from those particular connections. Thanks for this video it really helped. you should do a video removing and replacing fuses on a circuit board. I couldnt find ANY on removing and replacing a fuse

Dan, you emphasized no more than 30 seconds usage for AC current through the (grey) 10A fused connector, yet ran the toaster for 93 continuous seconds at 6.75+ Amps AC. And, despite your warning about unreliability of foreign-made meters (presumably certified through a local authorityi), you ran that test on the cheaper Craftsman meter. At least, that tells us you have a great deal of confidence in that meter function-- however dangerously deceptive the Craftsman's AC voltage reading at "200A" might be. We realize you made this video five years ago-- it would be good to update the video with all you have learned since then.

Excellent, well done, thank you.

good job, thank you.

One thing I have learned over the years is to always check for power each time no matter what even with the cheaper stick tester as one time I was working on a multi family home and I shut off the hole power to the 2nd floor and was take out an old light and putting in new fans and as I was taking it off something touched and blew up in my face turned out the wiring was all fucked up and someone was messing with the boxes in the basement and made it so the 1st floor was paying for the 2nd floors bedroom light. So after that I always check for power each time no matter what even if thar doesn't happen someone could come in and no know you shout it off to work and turn it back on and that's why you should always have red tape on you to.

Fantasticly interesting educational added humour a very satisfying vid to watch enjoyed it tremendously ty..

MR. Daniel i like your course< in clean explains thank you

Hey Dan!! Great video, thank you for posting this. Do you know if the brand Hioki is any good,? Im hearing some of my coworkers saying it is better than an Fluke