It's a 240V circuit, that's why there are 2 hot lines.

Kyle, Just letting you know that at 19:30 there is a jump cut backwards in the video a certain amount and repeats material until the finish. Still a wonderfully informative video, just wanted you to know.

In terms of the wiring, modern EVSEs go with the 4-pin NEMA 14-50 standard. L1 (hot), L2 (hot), Neutral (typically wired but unused), and Ground (required). But there are lots of adapters and EVSEs that take various older styles of dryer plugs, which I recommend avoiding as much as possible because dryer plugs aren't designed to run high amps for hours on end. For 240VAC, the actual power is carried on L1 and L2. L1 or L2 against 'Neutral is just 120VAC, but L2 is 180 degrees out of phase with L1 so L1 against L2 gives you 240VAC. In the U.S. Neutral is right smack in the middle at the same potential as ground. In the E.U., however, 240VAC is not symmetric around ground, it is entirely above ground, and there is usually only one hot. It will be 240VAC against neutral, offset above ground. Neutral is not used at all for U.S. 240VAC, but on some devices it is monitored. Most EVSEs just ignore the neutral entirely... it is often not even wired internally. However, the EVSE is required to test ground against L1 and L2 to make sure there is a solid ground connection at least to the EVSE. More sophisticated EVSEs will test that ground and neutral are bonded (at the main service breaker box). All EVSEs are required to test for ground faults (current on the ground) and disconnect. Usually the EVSE also checks the L1 and L2 voltage against ground to make sure the ground is real and voltages are as expected for the region. -- Now, in terms of wiring, one thing people need to be careful about is that traditionally NEMA sockets were designed for dryers that only run an hour at a time, not for EVs that might be sucking max amps for 8+ hours. So a lot of NEMA sockets out there are actually quite deficient, even when they are advertised to have a 50A circuit rating, and even when they are 14-50's. Always get a quality socket, don't low-ball the price. Even if you only have, say, a 20A circuit, you still want to use the beefiest NEMA socket that you can find. Even if you have a 50A circuit and socket, you might still want to program your EVSE for a lower max amperage just as an added safety. After a new installation, check that the socket is not melted or burned or smells funny at least once a week for a few months before you get comfortable with it. Tesla EVSEs tend to be hardwired. Well, many EVSEs in general are hardwired, and many are not. Hardwiring is theoretically safer than using a plug, but even hardwired wiring can have severe issues if installed improperly. To be honest, a good NEMA socket is just more useful than hardwiring. The breaker should always be sized to protect the wiring, and then down-sized from there as desired. So a 50A NEMA 14-50 with appropriate wiring would get a 50A breaker. But if you have only 20A wiring with your 50A NEMA 14-50, you would obviously put in a 20A breaker. And of course you would program the EVSE to not suck up more current than the wiring can handle. Double safeties... very important to avoid turning the wiring into a line of fire. -- Finally, in terms of which EVSE to get... to be completely honest, I don't like the ones that have fancy displays, wifi, bluetooth, or are too smart for their own good. I just want a basic weather-proof unit and dip-switches to set the highest negotiated current are just fine. I wound up getting an out-door Grizzl-E for my garage (Canadian product so obviously it can handle any weather), and a stupid cheap programmable portable EVSE with a NEMA 14-50 plug to throw into the car, along with some adapters when visiting friends houses who have convenient dryer or 14-50 plugs to plug into instead of 120VAC. That's pretty much it.

Oh, one more thing... NEMA plugs are VERY DANGEROUS. When the plug is being put into the socket or is partially but not completely pulled out of the socket, those long prongs are fully accessible to your fingers. People often grasp the plugs wrong and wind up touching live prongs. So always be careful when plugging or unplugging one. For an EVSE, you have that convenient breaker... make sure the breaker is open. I know it may seem a bit silly to some, but its a good habit to get into. Even the most experienced electrician will have touched a live wire or prong dozens of times in his or her career. The breaker will be double-pole, it disconnects both L1 and L2. In addition, either the breaker or the EVSE will have a GFCI or equivalent capability for safety. The rules are a bit relaxed in the U.S. unfortunately, but in the EU and the UK the breaker itself must integrate a GFCI, I believe.

How about the editing of the video?

AC level 2 Charging also will help prolong the life of your battery.

Yes, but DC recharging is also less reliable

Of course. But the ability to DC fast charge quickly when you do need it-even if it’s only once or twice a year-is critical.

I agree with you 100%

It's hard to get people to think about this as you presented, but that is the best way to pitch it. I am starting the deployment of my solar array next week (starting at 8.9kW with potential for 10-15% gain from bifacial), really looking forward to driving off of power from the sun!

what's the best bang for buck solar array I should be looking into? (complete noob here)

@@Robosan4000 Tesla makes good equipment but Tesla doing the install should be avoided.

Only takes 20 years to pay off the solar!

Yeah AC charging is less harsh on the battery

Yes AC charging is def better on the battery. I have two same year same model Teslas. One is 90% Supercharging, other is 99% AC charging and the battery on the supercharger one is much worse after a year compared to the AC one

I still have access to free supercharging and only use it on long road trips. For the majority of my charging I charge at home. It's just more convenient.

I charge my Chevy Bolt at home to keep from annoying the waiting owners of faster charging cars when I am using the 350kw DCFC stations! Yay!

Level 1 is useless. level 2 at a minimum

Level 1 is great for at your job, where you'd work an 12 hour shift, even then Plug in Hybrid would be the ones getting topped off. For Full Electric Vehicles, it would restore the milage driven to work and MAYBE a few extra miles. (idk let someone crunch those numbers) Level 2 is generally better due to quicker charge times for Plugs ins to get topped off and for BEVs to get a full charge within a work shift. thing is, is it worth the money or time? since if i recall correctly it costs more when using someone else's electricity rather than your own. which is interesting, cuz on one hand its easier to scale at common points of interest BUT the company does want to get their return on investment so yeah they kinda need to charge both cost plus a profit margin. whereas as homeowner only gets billed for their consumption rate. still sucks but nothing is free so i guess the cost must be added in. back to the original point, Level 1 isnt bad, but its best for Plug Ins and technically could offset commuters milage for the employees (not for public use since its an 8 hour charging period, essentially a staff memeber)

Several people have mentioned this and thanks for affirming it. Is there a monthly service charge to the owners to charge people or pay as they use it? This would be great for apartment buildings with common parking and house power or at my cabin in the woods for that emergency charge someone might need to get down the mountain. There aren't many good options in the less expensive range. Shine pay and orange charger stand out but the owner has to pay on their own system.

Good to know. Actually had someone asking at Fully Charged Live about situations where he'd charged at friends houses and while they were fine with it, he felt guilty not knowing how much to repay them. So this could maybe help in those situations as well. I'm in a multi generation household and while going to the fuel station had that moment of 'oh help once I get an EV how will I cover my home charging fuel costs, if I can't see or track how much it costs my parents?' or just track different car usages in general, so good to know some residential chargers have stuff like this.

His channel is excellent.

Yes in fact any color AC lead except white and green is a hot lead.

Yes - editing mistake. Apologies! Video will be edited in a couple hours (UKposts processing edits is slow)

Same. Love how it works well with public ChargePoint locations.

And yes, I do watch Tom's State of Charge reviews on all the EVSE - I really like his deep freeze cable test, even though snow and truly cold weather are mythical to us here in the southeast XD

I've been looking at their Duo hoping to have one PHEV and one EV in the next few years if we can get an EV that can go for 3 hours with under 15 minutes of charging.

You didn't miss out on not getting the smart version; I did, and the app (3rd party) is mostly useless. I'm disappointed by that aspect, but for everything else, the Grizzl-E has been solid.

I run mine from the ceiling! I keep a little plastic storage rack in the middle of the garage to just rest the charger cable on. It is super easy to plug in and out and it is never in the way...

@@nafnaf0 Sounds like a great idea!

Also when it's not in use it displays Autel advertising in my driveway trying to figure out a way to get rid of that

Yikes. Might be solvable with a hood, but there's no way a glorified smart lightswitch should be overheating.

I’d be on the phone with Autel.

Hey Crazypostman, Autel official account here, we're sending you a DM to get your issue troubleshooted and resolved. Check your inbox, thanks.

You may want to reduce the level of charging to reduce heat generation. You can do this within the evse or the car software. I am sure you know that per NEC, the evse should be set at no more than 80% of the rated amps of the circuit; in other words if your circuit breaker is 40 amps and you have a 40 amp evse, the evse should provide no more than 32 amps to the car. I use a 40 amp rated evse on a 40 amp circuit and have the evse set to 32 amps; I use the car software to downrate the amp draw to be 28 amps. The difference between 7.5 kw at 32 amps and 6.8 kw at 28 amps is negligible on an overnight charge.

Bear in mind that the average commute is about 40 miles round trip in the US. 120V @ 12A (on a 15A outlet) charges about 4-5 miles per hour. So the average US commuter could charge their car to support their daily commute in 10 hours (probably less time). Obviously this is not going to support everyone, but providing 15A standard outlets at home parking spaces will solve charging for a lot of people. You could put in one 60A 240V circuit to support a single 48A EVSE for one car, or for the same power load on your breaker box you could put in 8 120V 15A outlets and help 8 people out.

Yes. Must be a different editor.

Me too. I set mine at 22 amps on the app. The cable gets a bit warm at the full 32 amps. Doesn’t get warm at 22a.

120V outlets. Seriously - Level 1 EVSEs are relatively inexpensive and they can replace 50 or so miles of range overnight when plugged into a humble 120V 15A outlet. For the breaker box load of one fancy 48A unit that needs a 60A breaker, you can provide eight 120V 15A outlets on dedicated circuits. Maybe put in a few extra-charge "premium EV" parking spaces that you charge a little extra for that have 32A or 40A Level 2 stations, or provide L2 stations that charge extra for the power to cover long commuters.

hi friend,i will recommend you a ev charger with OCPP.

I am with you. I will stick with my hardwired Tesla unit in my garage. NACS!

I am not a Tesla owner, but I believe your "mobile wall charger" provides the 32 amps that an evse would provide. So for you, you're all set! Buying an evse would be for those whose cars don't come with that nice Tesla mobile charger.

@@ramonmorales1980 thanks!

Stick with the Tesla charger. Fantastic.

Great idea, but will be quickly made obsolete as Tesla continues to rollout CCS adapters at supercharger locations across the country.

@@mowcowbell The rollout is really limited so far.

Wow what state are you in? My guess is it’s a conservative run state that doesn’t care about ev adoption.

Load Sharing if you plan to get two EVs