A VVT will not blow your trans faster than a BP4W. Peak torque is like 10 ft-lbs more.

@@NappMotorsportsi know for a fact that the risk of breaking anything on the drivetrain from wheel hop is higher, because of the extra lowend torque a VVT generates, im simply against it for my purpose its obvious that almost everyone building a VVT goes for „max hp“ when its forged, im just looking to stretch the powerband +u have the option of a nice 323gtr valve cover on a bp4w 😁 all based on 4 years of research and decsionmaking

@@NappMotorsports turbo is a g25 550, so u know im sliding on the torque limit

I could. I'd be a little jaded/biased as I've only had the K swap, and not an LS or V6 kit so I can't speak to those as well.

Thanks!

Hey, thanks!

Good tip!

Yeah, it's an extra hassle, but drilling and tapping a feed isn't that big a deal. It wouldn't be a factor for me if I was choosing a block.

Nice! Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks!

Right on!

Nice!

Nice, sounds like a fun build!

That's a great combo actually! And don't worry about the MBSP, I don't really know how much value it adds, and people are making 400hp without it.

Muy buena información se puede poner un motor 1,8 en un auto que tiene un 1,6 gracias saludos

Holy cow thank you for all the knowledge! Going to have to reference this for a turbo build!

I used to autocross a VVT swapped NA, and I had no issues of valve float until around 8000 rpm. YMMV but I had no issues at 7400.

Thanks man!

I could, I don't have any on hand right now but I might be able to borrow some from some friends to make a video.

Solid option. The benefits of the BP4W are in the head. Bottom ends are pretty much the same

You can put a VVT head on a BP4W.

Just keep a 1.6 in it. You'll never have any regrets ❤

I'll be putting out a video on how to properly VVT swap your car as well, it's super simple!

Glad to hear its simple I look forward to seeing the video :D

​@@NappMotorsports how about transforming the 1.6 to a 1.6 vvt...

Hello my Irish brother. Keep the 1.6. I have a turbo '91 1.6 that's been making 220hp reliably for the last 13k miles on stock internals. Plan on going forged and mildly porting the head over the winter and shooting for more. 1.6 gang up 💪💪

I think he's talking at the wheels - most 1.6s whether JDM, Euro, US were all broadly in that 115 ballpark give or take a few horses, but it's more like 90 at the wheels (in a healthy engine!). Euro and Japanese NB 1.6s were nearer 110 at the crank though I think, and when the NA 1.8 arrived, Europe also got a detuned 1.6 with only around 90 at the crank - I think that was fundamental stuff like a milder cam. No idea what they make at the wheels but probably not a lot...

I would just turbo the 1.6, bhp per pound spent it’s better than any swap. You can make 200whp easily with a bolt on kit and ECU.

Yeah I'm talking about wheel horsepower, sorry!

No problem!

That's the one I referenced. That's actually the NA8 vs NB head diagram.

I haven't seen a need yet myself?

Yup! It’s something I sell and I have them in stock ready to ship. “Miata Coolant Neck Blockoff” is how they’re listed.

Similar but different, we swapped a VVT build from the factory 01-05 intake manifold over to a skunk2 (slightly better than squaretop) and a bigger throttle body and the car (when tuned for it) gained 15 whp. So there's definitely a benefit, I'm not sure if you'll feel it without a tune though.

The NA6 interior is my favorite, so the best path is putting a 1.8 in the 1.6 chassis.

That’s the 3rd gen. We got those here with only the 2.0L and people commonly 2.5 seal them. But that engine and the 3rd gen/NC 1.8 are different than the 1.8 and 1.6 block.

250hp

You won’t regret swapping it

Hahaha

No idea, I've never worked with that engine before.

Good intake and header/exhaust could net you around 140-150whp

It should!

K swaps are cool, but also extremely expensive and have a lot of quirks.

@@NappMotorsports yeah i guess you are right, im planning ahead like 5 years 😂 1.6 itb sounds awesome but i want to do donuts, hence turbo 😂

The head will do 99% of the work

@@NappMotorsportsok thanks

Thanks!

Nice!

Not really comparable because they don’t swap into the same chassis.

Yes. Super common with swaps. There’s some good wiring resources online.

@@NappMotorsports any chance you could shoot through some links?

Thanks. That's a bit different as the engines aren't swappable (as easily), whereas the NA and NB can swap the engines around.

Good crossover, but not something I've had to come across.

Thanks!

That should be able to take you to 300 no problem.

whats your comp?

I'll be doing some content on my 2.5 swap process for the NC, don't worry!

Nice

👍🏽

Torque specs are important.

Looks like he’s using R8 coils on these engines

@@konradgeorgeson hmm i am new to miatas.. so i know nothing.. there has to be a kit to convert the 2 coil pack/2 wire OE setup to 4 packs..

Flow force

You need an aftermarket ECU to run individual coils.

I recommend the FlowForce kit. Plug and play if you have an aftermarket ECU. If you're on stock ECU, don't worry about it as the stock coils are totally fine for stock power.

94-97 1.8's had hydraulic lifters and are prone to lifter tick. The 99-05's don't.

Thank you sir your video saved me from a not good purchase. So it has engine problems. Like the videos. Want to get two and build a weekend warrior.

You'd have to swap heads over from a VVT to the BP4W bottom end, and the oil supply line, as well as run the wire for VVT control to your standalone ECU.

Different chassis that isn't really swapped into the NA/NB, so I left it out, along with the 2.5 and the ND. I will be 2.5 swapping my NC though so there will be content around that.

You're safe keeping the MSM engine since it has the MBSP upgrades and all that.

@@NappMotorsports you think ill be good with just a Rod/pistons/main bearing upgrade everything else oem?

I'd argue it's more important for racing! Gets you out of the pocket faster in a corner if you have more low end torque.

NA8 is closer to the NA6 than the BP4W in my opinion. Same casted port angle and lifter/cam style is more important than overall displacement.

You're also losing a ton of potential by not doing a standalone ECU.

"Torque curve was flat as a pancake" - made all of 60 ft-lbs lol. This whole comment is big 1.6 king energy lmao.

Correct!

Yup. Good point.

Yea it's rev happier!!!

The 1.6 is great, if the 1.8 didn't exist.

Still all less than a 1.8 💅

Depends on what power you’re trying to make. If it’s less than 250, just boost what you have.

@@NappMotorsports I'm looking for a 275 not 300 anywhere close Don't want to have to change out the transmission or rear end if I go over 300 hp

VVT

😬

You won’t really get much gain without aftermarket ECU vs a stock flat top VVT intake.

@@foamdataservices yeah I was curious about that. Thanks

Yeah you'd want to tune for it to really get the benefit.

@@NappMotorsports would I get a check engine light? It removes the VICS system I believe.

The 1.6 is a shorter block, so the 1.8 (BP4W included) heads will not fit onto it.

I'd argue VVT for the most power cheaply. Same head flow, you can use volvo springs, and I've pushed them and they don't have valve float until around 8000 rpm.

@crx22honda37 this sounds like a good setup, what rpm are you maxing at

@btugaming9991 7300. It's 6258efr. All the boost by 3600ish

The ND 1.5 is a really nice engine and was definitely zingier than the ND1 2.0, though obviously didn't have the low and mid range torque. The 2-litre in the ND2 is much closer to the 1.5 in character, has more of that revvy feel.

They can all be fun, but the torque of the 1.8 just takes the cake.

VVT Gang lets goooo!

Phrasing!

@NappMotorsports sorry I couldn't help myself! I'll stop now. Lol. Seriously though, Looking forward to getting my hands on the K24 intake tube! Take your time, engine isn't even in the car yet... I gotta get cracking.

Lots of time and effort.

Hahaha I don't think I'm popular enough to change the pricing forecast of VVT's based on one of my videos

You can run regular gas on a VVT...

@@NappMotorsports with knock sure but not recommended

That's a lot different haha. Being a totally different casting (that's more similar in every way to the 1.6) is unfixable. You could not get BP4W or VVT flow out of a NA8 head.

@@NappMotorsports A BP4W or VVT head will bolt onto an NA8 block though, there is no compatibility between the NA6 and NA8 engines, they are completely different.

Excluding a core, a longblock will run you $8500 starting for parts/machining/labor

That is correct and I totally forgot about that. It's a plug and play VTPS.

👍🏽

Sorry for your loss. Turbo 1.6 > rotrex vvt

Yesssssss! Love to hear it.

Lets gooooo

1.8 owners smol pp tho **

@@batousan_ this man didn't watch the video I want something that'll be daily-able boosted at 200-220bhp (that number because I can't afford to build the engine or replace the 5-speed yet)

Thanks for the assist

😂

But they aren’t more fun

Nooo. VVT swap the world

A bit out of scope since these engines are all quickly swappable between the 2 chassis.

I could, but it will be veryyyy similar to the NA8 build video I posted.

👍🏽

1.6 build sheet? is it reliable

I'll take the engine of your hands if you want! lol

Sorry for your loss 😢

VVT is best

That's the VVT name also. Same as BP-6D

I'm ready whenever you are!

bruh

Sometimes you just have to let go of what you love.

@@NappMotorsports hahaha, ill see what my wife thinks about that 😂.

As long as it’s a 1.8

Doesn’t exist. Gotta go with the best (1.8)

Noooooo

Awesome!

I mention it as the NB 1.6. Somehow makes less power than the already lethargic NA 1.6

@@NappMotorsports The later Euro2 emission Engine in the NA6 had just 9,0:1 compression Ratio with other cams and 90 HP. The NB 1.6 hat the same compression Ratio like the 89-93 1.6 but was rated with 110 HP. I put some the chips from some European 1.6 90 HP Stock ECUs with my eprom reader and looked for timing tables. Some of them after 1996 run only 17-18 degree of timing at redline. The Camshaft from the 90 HP are also different so they make more torque in low and mid range. In combination with the 4.1 rear end in this cars its more a cruiser car than a happy reving sports car. Funfact i have a NA6 115 HP a NA6 90 HP and a NA8 131 HP. The engine charakteristics are very different. NA6 116HP low torque and HP in RPM under 4000 but at higher rpms above that you geht this litte kick that gives you the feeling of "the engine lives" NA6 90 HP you feel more torque in the low end you think yeah this is a good working 1.6 but than you reach rpms above 4000 and there is no kick and not woow effect like the 115 its just slow :D NA8 131 HP the same feeling like the 90 HP but the engine is also happier over 4000 rpm but it dosn't have the great " the power kick in" feeling like the 115 its doing its job with a bit less emotion (i think that's why many people say the 1.6 feels more snappy and revs happier you don't have this wake up moment like the 115 HP)

It takes more work for the 1.6 to hit 250 hp, whether it's more PSI or something else. Having driven plenty of these back to back, the .2L does make a difference.

@@NappMotorsports I’m sure the 200cc makes a difference ofcourse, but unless your looking for Peak power it’s not really a deal breaker in my experience. As I said they’ll both make 250whp reasonably easily. All in all, They’re both solid platforms that can make a fast and fun Miata to drive.

Deep down you always knew

Cheap, powerful, reliable, and it always hurts the 1.8 boys when they lose to one.

Where are you from? I'm from germany. 1.6 115hp are quite rare. Price is mostly the same as 1.8 (about 600/700€)

​@@str8slayn1cheap (but not much cheaper than the 1.8), powerful (but not as powerful as the 1.8), and reliable (but not as reliable as the 1.8)

@surewhynot6259 gets it.

cheaper is not better, sounds like LS 🗑️ thinking

VVT gang tho

@@NappMotorsports leave me in my dinal

VVT is the best.

Sorry!

I understand the comment, being a citizen from a country neighbo(u)ring the UK. However, think it’s funny we’re corresponding here in English nevertheless;) At least we’re all car/petrol/gear heads/nuts!