Looking at the schematics I have a theory that needs testing. HC-SR501 is powered at 5V, the output is in 3V3 logic, so far that's fine. But the power(5V) traverses a fool-proof diode (normal diode, not Schottky) on which we have a drop of, at least, 0.6V. The regulating circuit, an LDO equivalent to LM1117, has 3.3V at the output but it needs at least (in the best case) 4.4V at the input to regulate (dropout voltage at 100mA is typical 1.1V, max 1.2V). So you see the problem here? 5.0V - 0.6V (diode) - 1.1V (typical dropout voltage) = 3.3V Simply put, you will get reliable regulation (barely) only if 1. The input voltage is 5 and not below AND 2. the dropout on the diode is 0.6 and not bigger AND 3. You have a quality individual LDO that doesn't happen to have a dropout voltage of 1.2V (still within the specs). At worse, with a Chinese LDO (LM1117 clone) with a dropout voltage of 1.25V, a dropout on the diode of 0.65V, and a power (from USB) of 4.8V, you'll get, theoretically, 3.1V at the output of the LDO. But that's not regulation, it's a bizarre behavior of our LDO. So the first thing that I would do is to short that diode (next to the +V pin) and see if the LDO is regulating correctly at 3.3V (the tab of the LDO is at Vout, you can measure it there). Of course, I'll power the module at 5V from USB but at this moment I already have more room for error. If I'd want to power the module at 3.3v from the ESP own regulator, I'd short the diode and the input-output of the regulator, they're very close (from the top view of the regulator with its tab upwards the in- and out- pins are center and right). This way I'd still be able to use the header (+5V power line used with 3.3V of course) and I'll not have to worry about sending power into the output of the regulator with a floating input. The 3rd option is to put a 100-220nF capacitor between pins 12 and 13 of the BIS0001 circuit. There is a 10nF capacitor already there, probably a negative feedback that improves noise immunity, but I'll not do that until I solve the power problem above. I'll start to test this theory and I'll come up with my results, meanwhile, if you have other opinions feel free to comment. Edit. It seems HC-SR501 uses another type of LDO, an HT7133 with a much lower voltage drop (0.1V). Also, the circuit tab is not at Vout, but at Vin. My bad... More editing. I came to believe that this HC-SR501 was poorly designed and tested from the start. I don't think there is a one-size-fits-all solution for the random triggering problem. Depending on who made the module (China is making clones... sometimes of Chinese clones) some solutions could work while others could not. After some tinkering mine works ok, no random triggering and it's connected to an ESP8266 (Witty Cloud version, my test ESP) with 20 cm of wires and it also has in its vicinity an ESP32, 40 cm away. The Witty Cloud is also connected to a 433MHz transmitter... plenty of radio sources. What did I do? I shorted the diode. I threw a 100nF ceramic capacitor (through hole version) over the LDO, between its ground and its tab. Another 100nF ceramic over the power pins of the sensor. And a 100nF (SMD, albeit people are reporting that 220nF works well) over the BISS0001 pins 12 and 13. I'll let the module on overnight and check the logs later. BTW, while I don't shy away from ASM and C I find it much easier to program the ESPs via ESPHome especially since I'm using HomeAssistant and I already have several ESPs already working.

So if I were to test the hot and neutral on the panel (the 50Amp breaker) with my multi-meter. Would I still recieve 120 or 240? Since the neutral is being used as hot?!

Is can this connect with google assistant?

Warning - several items in early videos are now obsolete and invalid.

Maybe the sensitivity level should have been adjusted as a starting point to compare what is the reall effect of the power PIN change. But instead the level was adjusted at the end of the video so we don't know what was the power PIN real effect.

Thank you very much, been sitting here for 3 hours wondering why my HC-SR501 lets the connected LED blink over and over again.

I haven’t tried this yet but I noticed the link to the S31 in you description doesn’t work

This solved biggest my issue with this sensor so far. Will watch it over the next few days, but it's looking really reliable so far. Thank you so much for this fix!

That's too much of a headache. Just save your money, quit being cheap AF, and get the better product.

Man, that's rude! I am sure you have plenty to say but I get a stroke before there is any useful information which I could actually understand. Please open your mouth sometimes while speaking and get a grip on what you want to say before hitting that record button. Give some information now and then. Sorry for the blunt approach, but I rreally would have liked to know something of what you know. But it just sucks. Sorry. And thanks for trying, anyway.

Rules DSL is dead

im fucking mad, 6 hours and still getting HIGH value from input every time, no way i can get it to change to LOW

still triggers for me, these sensors are junk..

was NodeMCU actually able to run all the programs on that many lights though?

Does anyone know if there is a video with an explanation about linking openhab 3 with MS Visual Studio Code? I followed these steps with openHAB 2 and it worked flawlessly but now, with openHAB 3, I keep getting the error "Error while connecting to openHAB REST API". I read a lot of explanations on forums but I get lost in technical terms and a video with a step by step guide would really help. If anyone knows one I would really appreciate it.

I have been using Openhab for years, I found your videos to be the number "ONE" for learning and understanding. Because of Life changes, I have been not using Openhab, I just discovered this new version. I must say it is horrible. Not easy to understand! I deleted all my old stuff (by accident), now left with this new version. I can not even find a 2.5# image to recreate what I had, which worked well. I detect in your voice some real hesitation and sense you are not really pleased. The powers to be could have left the old version running without updates and created this new so called improved version so that people like me could still have a working system while learning a new program. What disappoints me the most the documentation language does not match the definitions in the AP. BUT I thank you for your efforts. Waiting for you to publish a video "starting from scratch" and simply make 2-3 devices work with a simple rule.

hi if your electric monthly bill is on the 17th of each month, is there a setting to have the numbers reset on the 17th of each month and can you set the cost per watt?

you save my live, thanks!

Best video ever!

Hey! Great video thank you for the explanation! One question though, at the end of your video (ukposts.info/have/v-deo/fXmInZ-Oh2ODxIk.html) your location tab shows your locations with temperatures, lights and so on, that are avaialble to them in the card itself (e.g.: Garage shows temperature and humidity) How exactly do you do that? I have a kitchen, in my model, added a temperature sensor, but it's appearing there :/ edit: Okay the temp and humidity are there now, what about the lights? XD

Thank you for this video. I have a same problem with HC-SR501 and ESP8266 (D1 mini). Unfortunatelly your solution didn't solve my problem.

Good Video, but unfortuantely not watchable with ads coming every minute. Good example for the advantages of AdBlock.

I got a unit very similar off the web but it requires a 12 volt power source. I suspect your camera needs this too but you never mentioned it?

Dude, the lights are half the cost but they kinda suck. Mine CONSTANTLY drop connection from the hue hub. I always have to turn them off by the switch and turn them back on. They work for like 2 hours and they stop responding to hue.

Had to stop watching, my rather expensive laptop was at risk of being smashed up if you said ahm, erm or om one more time.

Big dislike. Title says this is basics? I'm 13mins into this and it hasn't even been generally told how this cluster fuck interface is even laid out. I'm outta here. Sorry for rough input, but please make script to follow in future.

What a UI needed create how to video? Ui used to help low tech users create smart home. But this note about this((

I have joined your channel as you explain in a normal way and no music so I can hear what you say thanks Bob in the UK

awesome, i subscribe right now!!

I love the vim part lol

Hello you have helped me before and hopefully you can again I have just moved home and looking to set this set up again. Could you tell me would I be able to easily change the config to work with MQTT v2 and am looking to upgrade to OH3 and understand MQTT v1 won’t work sorry I know this is a stupid question but am still trying to get my head around how it all works. Thanks again for your help and the work you do

I'm working on something similar with the amica nodemcu and a the pir sensor. Have you been able to figure a decent way to power it via batteries? Thanks.

What wire size are you using for power and ground?

A really great board, and you have been very generous, in sharing, thank you. Did you consider adding a rst/d0 jumper to allow for deep sleep mode?

RAISE YOUR VOLUME

When you press D to see the differences, what does the + and - signify? I am assuming the changes. Is '-' the old version and '+' the new version?

Can you please explain why you changed the openhab.host from openhabian to your RPi IP address? Because like you said, you don't have to change that if openhabian is installed in your RPi. So I am a little confused. You said something about your "production server" but I didn't get it. Could you please explain to a beginner?

I saw one code-flaw: The exterior sheath should have been stripped back to the box clamp. Code usually limits intrusion of the sheath into a box only about 1/4" or so past the clamp. You would have found it easier to do the outlet if you used a 4" square box with the matching 240V/50A outlet (6-50). As I wanted this outlet outside, it's in a weatherproof box I recently did one for mine that will do dual duty powering an EV charger or the welder. I used individual #6 (stranded) conductors (in red, black and green) in plastic conduit. I don't like running high ampacity circuits where they can be hit. Hence the conduit. In my shop, the normal wiring is stapled to the ceiling joists - with lath, the lath acts as some physical protection, and is okay because you're not going to run drywall screws thru them unless the line crosses the lath (you cleat on a piece of lath on top of the existing lath to run the cable over, and the added depth makes it legal). I didn't want to cut the wall drywall, so all the drops to outlets are sleeved in plastic conduit for physical protection, and the outlets are in standard plastic boxes surfaced mounted on the drywall. I chose 1" conduit because it's easy to pull even #6. The conduit was run along the top of the wall (about 1" below where ceiling drywall would go, and between the garage door opening hardware), and the whole run was under 25', so the job wasn't much more expensive than the NMD 6/2 you used, and nobody had to crawl around in the garage attic in the fiberglass and occasional squirrel poo/urine. I personally usually wire first, then panel last, and rely on a head lamp if necessary for the panel work.

I am looking for a simple explanation of the 220 wiring which I think I picked up from your video but I want confirmation so you hook up the two hot wires and the ground wire the neutral wire is not hooked up to a 3-prong 220 is that correct

Thank you BK Hobby.

Great tutorial - thanks

Hmmm well I have had this item for three weeks, and, having done all things in this video, still haven't been able to achieve any sound input into my computer ...an utterly baffling product, and one that I think is just one further 48 hour period of hollow frustration away from the bin.

Thanks, super helpful! Do you know why these Sonoff's have Tx/Rx switched? I had another Sonoff device and spent 30min troubleshooting only to find out Tx/Rx are swapped

Thank you so much :) Perfect for beginners. Can you make one video for e-mail sending rule with configuration , thank you. :D

Hello there, quick question for you mate. My speakers are 5.1. Do i have to connect them with the UMC22 at the output plugholes? If i have to, i assume that i will have to buy some adaptors, right?

nice video 👍 very helpful. did you design those pages or are they generated from the semantic model?

Thank you very much for your video, you could make a video of how the new openHAB 3 UI is made, thank you!

Tell me please. How to How do you adjust the temperature of the thermostat, I do not see the buttons for adjustment in your interface. Your satmap has these buttons

Dude, ty ty ty .. I've been searching for a tutorial on this and all I've found was basically people filtering through options on a finished product. Although the programing part might stump me, I feel confident on the mcu. Hell, I didn't even know I needed a holder for the MCU, the video I found initially made it seem like the node plugged into the mobo(I'm doing rgb area for my pc and wanted to control\sync it with my pc.. ty again for all 3 videos. Great job.

OH 3 is horrible... Spend 3 days jerking around stupid times and dates and still no solution... Try adding a Date / Time with OH3 new UI that will show on BasicUI and after you have that, try changing the formatting for that item, see how that goes. What is easy with OH3? I just do not see that "easy" part anywhere... The GUI is horrible. MainUI is so bad that i can already see many people going away from OH3 just because of this. Even I am considering moving away from it... At this point you could completely remove any UI model from OH3 and just purely do work with files directly...