The resin system used in this video is our MAX 1618 A/B. It cures at room temperature and does not heat curing. Here is the link to our eBay store for the MAX 1618 A/B resin system. www.ebay.com/itm/222625113128 Please review the description page, where you will find its physical and mechanical properties, instructional videos, and other related information for this product. Thanks Gerald

We use both. For our QC test, we use an analytical temperature data logger with 3 to 4 probes to measure the ambient temperature, the center of the mass where the highest exotherm is generated, and the outside of the 4-fluid-ounce container. The data logger measures temperature versus time. In this video, a large transformer is in the center of the potting mass, so an infrared temperature gun is used to obtain the overall temperature of the entire potting. Here is a link to a video in which multiple temperature points were used to log the ambient temperature and two specimens to determine the temperature variation. ukposts.info/have/v-deo/o559oYBrf22qk6s.htmlsi=BbPGZIXGTL6JYbH9&t=25

Yes, we do. Please call our customer service number at 877-403 8008, Mon- Fri, 9am to 4pm, and I can provide you with pricing and availability. Thanks, Gerald

A vacuum chamber will not create the consolidation force (pressing) needed to consolidate the fiber stack. The vacuum pump is the equipment that creates the negative force, the vacuum bagging setup is what needed to create the form. Check out these videos for more information; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/qZ9kgLB5rneet30.html or ukposts.info/have/v-deo/opamlYeCbI-Vxok.htmlsi=sUAIYjS7Hdt74k2C

As many as you wish. Allow 3 to 4 hours between pours or until the previous pour has cured the solid and cooled from the heat produced during the reaction. Flying bugs are tracked by the heat and from the light reflection, so keep watch to avoid surface defects.

I Think The Epoxy Does Codunt Temp So The Sensor Might be Delayed In Some Cases Wich Could BE A Problem..

This resin system complies with NASA Low Outgassing Materials. Properly mix and cured MAX BOND THIXOTROPIC yields <0.2% Total Material Loss per ASTM E595-15(2021) test procedure. The NASA requirements for outgassing are as follows: CVC <0.1% TM > 1 % TML-WV <1%.

Hello, Thank you for your comment. Yes, MAX GPE A/B does yield high strength upon cure. To help remove the cured puddle, use a heat gun to warm the spot and then use a metal spatula to scrape off the cured resin. Heat will make the cured resin soften for mechanical removal. As far as injecting the mixed resin in the right place, you may need to drill injection holes on the very top of the delamination bubble, inject the mixed MAX GPE, and then apply pressure to bond the delamination back into place. Use an automotive body filler to patch the hole and the paint to color match. Here is a video demonstration from a customer that used this process to repair his delamination problem. Thanks again, and let me know if I can be of further assistance. Vid 1 ukposts.info/have/v-deo/pp2Elox7a2ibr58.html Vid 2 ukposts.info/have/v-deo/sqSKnoKmo5iZ05s.html

The vacuum pump is rated at 7 CFM and it is dual-stage. The vacuum pressure was measured at 29.4 in.Hg steady state for the 4 hours duration. The pump used is similar to this sold at eBay; www.ebay.com/itm/166104656200

The short answer is yes; we have customers that use the MAX CLR as a coating for onboard drinking water storage for boats and RVs and produce good results. However, the specification for that application is not the same as the FDA specification for food contact. For portable water, the specification is NSF/ANSI 61.

It's a DIY. Fairly easy to do if you wish to try making one. We have all the resin systems available. Just let me know, and I'll gladly assist you with the procedures. Here is another aquarium background, Thanks, ukposts.info/have/v-deo/jHGLeGauq6mHzIk.html

Thanks. Here are a couple more vids showing this technique; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/rmmefq9kbWiTuZc.html ukposts.info/have/v-deo/e2mYk32Ji6WTtps.html ukposts.info/have/v-deo/aoB8omNscKZ5r4E.html I would ask for a raise ;-).

Yes, as long as there is access to where the resin can be injected, you should be fine. Park the RV on a level plane, inject as much resin as you can until it is saturated, then allow it to cure. This resin system has a very long working time so the injected MAX GPE stays as a liquid longer and infuses. Please make sure to place a catch at the bottom to capture any excess resin that drips out. Here is a link to a soft floor repair using the MAX GPE A/B; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/jJdhlot_g6dnzmQ.html

Here is a link to our vacuum infusion video using the same MAX 1618 A/B resin system. This video has more detailed information regarding the vacuum infusion process. ukposts.info/have/v-deo/qZ9kgLB5rneet30.html

If the camera has no moving parts, you can use the MAX CLR resin as a clear potting or embedding resin. When the resin cures, it is permanently bonded to the Arduino PCB. We have a customer that uses this resin system for potting and encapsulating lights and underwater cameras for deep-water diving and cinematography. ukposts.info/have/v-deo/bmVmdWyFnKySwpc.html

How about some Art Blakey ; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/e2mYk32Ji6WTtps.html Enjoy!

Ruby Braff -Mean To Me ukposts.info/have/v-deo/qIh2qIhsfX2J0Wg.html

The brush used in the video was a standard foam brush sold at HDepot or Lowes. The tenacity that affects the foam brush can also be from the epoxy formulation. Some epoxy resins contain too much monomer that affects the foam properties making it soggy. The resin system MAX CLR does not contain the monomer typically used in hobby epoxy resin, especially in 1:1 mix ratio competitive systems. The monomers are added to adjust the mix ratio to 1:1, and too much addition increases the acerbic nature of the formulation. Since this resin system, MAX CLR complies with FDA mandates it offers less of the problem you noted In the video, notice that the application method where the brush stroke was only going in one direction, not back and forth thus reducing cavitation and helping minimize air bubbles from forming. Hope this helps.

@@TheEpoxyExperts it does. Thank you

Hi, It may be better if you called me to discuss your application in detail. My number is 877 403 8008, Monday To Friday, 9 am to 4 pm PST. You do not have to use ScotchBrite. You can use fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit or finer) to abrade the surface and lower the gloss. There are chemical additives used to lower gloss. However, these additives can affect the cured performance of the resin and often cause premature yellowing. I hope this helps. Give me a call. I'm more than happy to help. Cheers Gerald

If the Aquaculture Black Is a powder, yes, it can be used with the MAX ACR. If the pigment is a liquid or a paste, you may want to check the liquid that was used to make the paste. Do not use pigments that contain water, as it is not compatible with epoxy resins.

@@TheEpoxyExperts Can you send me a link where I can add to cart the powder pigment you recommend?

Invert the arrangement upside down and use warm water to rinse the silk plants. This is how silk plant arrangements are cleaned according to our customers. To clean the inside from dust and debris, I was told rubbing alcohol diluted 50 with distilled water (distilled water prevents spotting inside the glass vase) was used to rinse out dust, and the alcohol was dumped and allowed to dry. Make sure not to allow the diluted alcohol to be in prolonged contact with the cure MAX TCR and allow it to dry thoroughly. If the arrangement uses floral green tape, you may want to just use compressed air to blow off any dirt or dust. Using the cleaner may cause the florist tape to bleed color and stain the arrangement. We used to make Silk Plant Cleaners for Walmart, but we don't sell the cleaner anymore, and I have not tried the new spray cleaner they sell now. Hope this helps.

You may want to use the torch method at 40°F. Acetone will still evaporate but at a much slower rate, and this can cause the epoxy-coating surface to cure much slower. A suitable procedure is to apply the epoxy and give it 5 to 10 minutes so the air bubble can rise to the surface and easily remove using the torch. Allow the coating to continue to outgas for another 10 minutes. The remaining air bubbles will rise to the surface for easy removal. The same procedure was used in the video demo, where the degassing procedure was done 10 minutes apart. So, ensure the bubbles are on the surface before torching to prevent wrinkles from appearing on the surface caused by applying too much heat. Here is a video demo where the propane torch was used for degassing the surface. ukposts.info/have/v-deo/fGBqoZ6daJuJsYU.html Thanks

Hello Jeff, several factors will produce a bad cure with a potting compound that typically cures at room temperature. The most common is due to 'resin crystallization', where PART A or resin component has solidified into crystals due to cold temperature exposure. Since the PART A resin component is in a solid crystal state, the curing agent will not blend properly to form a homogenous mixture with the resin component. Exposing the potting to heat will not cure the mixture. You will, however, melt the resin crystals back to a liquid and create more mess. Here is a video link regarding resin crystallization this issue is common during seasonal changes where the resin or PART A gets exposed to temperatures below 57°F. Similar to how honey will freeze solid when exposed to cold temperatures, the same happens to epoxy resin. To revert crystallization, the resin component must be warmed to 150°F to melt the crystallization and bring the resin back to its liquid form. The resin and curing agent must be liquid for the two components to mix properly. Here is a video demo; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/kXeolaZ-ZKKDsI0.html The other common error is improper mix ratio and how well the resin and curing agent were blended If the resin and curing agent were mixed in the wrong mix ratio, It would produce a gummy cure. Lastly is the mixing technique, which produces wet or uncured spots. Here is a video demonstration for your review showing the effects of poor mixing; ukposts.info/have/v-deo/sGNim6Gxm5Ccyn0.html As far as disposal, as long as the resin has converted to a solid, it is OK to dispose of as normal solid waste. If it is wet or tacky, the waste needs to be treated as chemical waste, and the disposal method should be in the product safety data sheet. In both cases, adding heat will not promote further curing. I hope this helps.

Acetone you can purchase at Lowes or Home Depot is fine. Do not use nail polish acetone as it is not pure. Nail polish acetone contains mineral oils and fragrance additives that will cause surface contamination. Here is the link to JASCO Acetone from Lowes, which is pure; www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-32-fl-oz-Fast-to-Dissolve-Acetone/50298079 They also sell spray bottle that works well for this procedure; www.lowes.com/pd/Zep-32-oz-Plastic-Spray-Bottle/3621238 Thanks!