lol pi llllll

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@@mohdjanimohdtaib2356 bot

@@mpirron1 P? Is this your answer to one of my questions or to all of them ?

1 : 6 comparison 2 volt rotor, 12 volt stator, I know it since i read comment from other youtube channel.

I had a feeling it was like the SepEx field golf kart motors, they have another field to power too & It acts the same way. Tnx 4 sharing 😊

INTP boys and girls. The 10 yr old taking stuff apart to see how it works. Tomorrow s engineers and technicians scientists

I am watching a different video. The video I am watching is a guy making a video on something he has never done and knows nothing about.

WRONG! Lol. I'm just kidding. You're dead on.

"Semi-brushless"... 🤷🏻 Still works exactly the same as a brushless motor, it just has an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet.

3 phase induction motor

@@VulcaNtGoF A 3-phase induction motor works completely differently

I think it's technically it's a bldc with electromagnetic rotor. And if you have a way of replacing the rotor with permanent magnets.. is love to hear about that... Maybe you have a better way of adding power to the rotor to give it a electromagnetic charge? The stator needs a field to push upon our is but going to spin..

It's not brushless since he put the brushes back in.

But brushes don’t interrupt the current into rotating coils as in normal brushed motor. There is only one pole and rotor coils work like a permanent magnet.

@@KUBA64official take the brushes out. Would it work?

@@wifie9321 The brushes only provide current to the rotor to operate the electromagnet, since it doesn't have permament magnets. Only a small current passes through the brushes, and the main motor current does not. The rest of it operates the exact same way as a brushless DC motor.

@@davelowets but it has brushes to provide power. Without them it cannot work unless you replace parts. Until the magnet is replaced to eliminate this problem, it is a brushed DC motor.

Until you exceed a voltage the insulation on the windings can withstand, arc through the insulation & create a short circuit... or overheat the windings, melting the insulation and creating a short circuit. Given that the armature shaft is steel, it's gonna produce a whole bunch of eddy currents. Eddy currents produce a great deal of heat. Think of a large air core inductor with a piece of steel passed inside while it's energized. While I don't doubt that an automotive alternator can be over amped/over voltage, there are limitations to doing so... for our own safety. The wire gauge of the windings would be a quick way to get an approximate safe maximum input/output. The more voltage used, the greater chance of arcing. The more amperage used, the greater chance of overheating.

@@kaisersose5549 … or overspeed the bearings, or overload them or the windings with too much load. Typically, a motor will stall first in the latter condition, but an alternator may be more lightly built than a typical motor. The original wattage rating of the alternator should be a good indication of the motor's limits.

Let me know how it works

I would like to know if it works as well and if at 36volts does it produce enough torque to pull a person because my bike is currently 65pounds with a single hub motor on it I want to make a awd with the rear driven by alternator motor on either chain or possibly belt driven like the surons segways ect

A guy has already done that FYI - but there may be others - but it's not possible to view every YT channels and contents thereof - and you probably just missed it but I'm interested in Alternator conversions for the reasons I've covered in my comment above to the host of this Channel - so I've simply selected this one [the only one I viewed ] for you - to show the possible pitfalls and/or success of the project - which seems quite do-able nevertheless. A link to that vid - From my You Tube viewing history: Bicycle Conversion using a 10,000 Watt Car Alternator 1,085,836 views Oct 15, 2021 "In this DIY project video we are going to convert our bicycle into an electric one. We are going to use a car alternnator that we have converted to a permanent magnnet brushless motor that we have converted in previous project video. Have a look at this project video as we are goingto have lots of fun building this bicycle. More information about the material and designs visit the instructables article link:" Hope this helps - good luck with your project.

nothing in english ?

Yes I learned it, I appreciate it

36v or 48v would work!

any esc voltage from 24V to 72V on the stator would work (if you use 4-12V on the rotor brushes), just need to cool the alternator or use pipes/something to guide air to the alternator depending on the voltage

Woah, this comment in itself was like an informative video! :D Tnx for sharing! 😊

The vehicle alternator is a very special design of generator in that the field and armature (rotor) are REVERSED so the rotor/armature is now the field and the fixed outer coil now functions as the armature. This unique rotor is known the alternator-claw design, aka bear-claw and supplies much higher current to the battery and at a lower RPM.

I was exited until i saw the brushes go back in

@@dave95377 me too, can I ask for a refund of my 15min?

Yes, indeed! Also you refer to " Delta and Star connected resistors"; They are the stator WINDINGS.

oh good its nor me alone wondering how brushless needs brushes ..none i own have any brushes

@@dave95377 so your missing the point of the brushes, they are pretending to be the permanent magnets.. if the winding is a reverse stator, you need the center piece to act like the permanent magnet, so you add a DC voltage to the center piece and it here a magnetic field so the electro magnetic field from the three ac wires have a magnetic field to push against.. you could always the center shaft out and replace it with permanent magnets... But don't have a clue how to accomplish that feat of manufacturing in as short a time as adding DC power to it instead.. it's actually kind of genius, cuz making that center piece into day a 4 pole permanent magnet in my garage would be impossible, especially if I wanted to spin that up to 2000 rpms. The DC brushes are a excellent substitute.

You choose it based on the voltage of the speed controller. If your speed controller is 36v then that's the battery that you need

alternators are rated in OutPut AMPS. In the automotive application, they are more a current source. While a car is running the out put voltage from the alternator will climb above the 12v of the battery. Usually 13 to 14 volts, This insures that current loads like fan motor defrost strips etc are all supplied from the alternator, not the battery

He ran it on 12.6 volts. Not 48. Wise up.

@@davelowets watch the whole video

you can tell the difference between wye and delta without taking it apart. delta will have 2 or 4 wire ends at each 3 points. Wye will only have 1.

@@mannys8259 not necessarily true, in most common 3 phase application, you will have 6 leads coming out of the motor/ generator. also there are motors with 9 or 12 leads which makes it harder to just tell by simply visually looking for one or two wires.

Speed will match the AC output of the ESC. Speed is limited by back EMF from the stator. It cannot exceed power supply voltage. Delta tends to have lower voltage than Wye but greater torque. Lowering brush voltage will weaken the field and allow greater RPM but with less torque.

and it could actually be converted to brushless...just put some magnets on the rotor

Also rotor is the part that turns not the other way around

Most of those are 24V, probably higher current too.

Thank you for explaining this to me.

He's exactly right Spinning = Rotor Body Coils = Stator What you did is a motor that can be controlled either way you want, less power sent to the rotor you're going to have more revs but less tourqe and obviously more power sent to the rotor it'll slow your revs down but have more torque, you can play with stator and rotor individually so you get whatever you want, bare in mind that this alternator was designed for a 12 volt system so my advice is to not exceed 12 volts !! Good luck interesting video

correct on the id of the parts. Stator...stationary...Rotor rotates

unfortunately this is a three phase motor which means that there is no good way to power it without a controller

@@boycefenn could run a capacitor or two

@@frankmarson2425 not sure I quite understand what you're suggesting

@@boycefenn you can run a 3ph motor on single phase by using a capacitor to generate the third leg if wired in delta or if wired in star - to the center of the star + to one leg and capacitor between the other 2 may have to convert dc to ac

@@frankmarson2425 i see, yeah that could work. in my head i was only considering DC. though even your suggestion would likely not work all that well because i think a converted alternator is an asynchronous 3ph motor so it would be prone to stalling

A motor connected in a Delta configuration will draw more amps than if it were connected in a Y configuration due to the fact that the Y configuration places the windings in series - adding the coil resistance values.

Yes, you would need someway to turn AC to DC since now the rectifier and regulator are gone.

I made mine external to allow me to use much heavier duty diodes and reduce the points of failure within the case. On the newer Ford alternators (as shown in the video) the most common mode of failure is one or more diodes shorting open. I used alternator diodes out of a tour bus from the 1970's (200 amp, 2000 amp surge), put them inside a sealed container of mineral oil, and put the contacts through the lid. Instead of the factory voltage regulator, I'm using a battery with two rheostats... One between the rectifier and battery (when I'm using DC), & one between the battery and the alternator. This allows me to use one device as a starter, generator/alternator, and primary drive motor. All built on top of a small outboard motor platform... Used to be a 7.5hp Evinrude, but it's now a 173cc predator, and belt driven to allow selection of drive motor. Just make sure you understand 3 phase AC before you start, 'cause that's exactly what an alternator without a rectifier is. It can kill you dead, before you hit the ground! There may or may not be a ground/neutral wire depending on delta v.s. wye configuration. You'll need to either make use of the individual "legs" of the three phases, or use a three phase to single phase transformer. Alternatively, three separate transformers wired together can be used with the wye configuration.

If you want to generate power with it, don't remove the rectifiers or the regulator. It is possible to make that switch on the fly, but the circuitry is a lot more complicated. Also BTW a generator is a permanent magnet device with a commutator instead of slip rings, they are less efficient and prone to failure at higher rpms as a commutator is weaker physically than solid slip rings. the reason the devices put into modern vehicles is called an alternator is that it makes alternating current (AC). Then the rectifier diodes are needed to convert to DC. Car alternators actually make very well balanced 3phase AC power,because it is more efficient.

@@kaisersose5549 Good safety advice about killing shocks

@@extremesheepherder9 thank you Kaptain

you can't

It a standard alternator from an older small car. Scrapyards sell them for $10 to $20, in better condition than this one.

Some are 24 volt systems.. Watch out

the brush wires are for field current (separatedly excited, some old huge DC motors from the past also were like that)

A 3-phase motor will have 6 wires. 2 wires for each of the 3 coils.

Think of it this way: a length of wire, let's say a foot long has two ends. Let's say: One end on the left and one end on the right. A coil of wire on a stator winding also has two ends. To locate or identify a coil's two ends, an ohm meter can be used. The ends of the wires are made available on the alternator after disassembly. For 3 coils you would expect 6 ends. For 6 coils you would expect 12 ends. For 12 coils you would expect 24 ends. These ends are usually soldered to the rectifier before disassembly. Sometimes two lengths of wire are wound around the same stator frame section. Instead of winding 1 wire at at a time they wind 2 at a time. This arrangement would show 4 ends per section. If there were 3 sections with two wires this way, you would see 12 ends. (3 X4)

DC pulses 120 degrees apart. Thats what the motor controller does. They use a microcontroller programmed to send voltage to each leg of the stator delayed by 120 degrees of rotor rotation with respect to the speed of rotation. The voltage is sent via 3 large MOSFET transistors -- used as a current valve by the microcontroller. The faster the speed the longer duration the pulses are going to the (3)MOSFETS. They may use more MOSFETs for one reason or another but this just a simplified explanation. I've never built one.

@@2pi628 thats a pretty good explanation of it. Its PWM pulse width modulation and the duration as you stated is the "on time" of the pulse also expressed as the duty cycle. A 50% duty cycle would be a pulse thats on equal to its time off. A 60% would mean its on 60% and off 40% causing the motor to run faster. The reason they may use many MOSFETS is for more current capability. They parallel them up to get more current. Same with power inverters, they have a whole bank of them on high output inverters. Thats why when one MOSFET fails it wipes out all of them due to parallel configuration. Some of those bike motors built into the wheel hub have about 10 wires. I think the speed control pulses each winding in a sequential order with PWM. I'm pretty sure this method is real efficient for the amount of power out to turn the bike wheel. This alternator conversion is very similar using less coils.

Nikolas, it's been a year now and, perhaps, by now, you might have become aware of hub motors. Use a hub motor for the front wheel and you'll eliminate the necessity for motor mount and chain/belt drive on the front wheel which is rather awkward to get right.

Yep, I have diy dual hub motor emtb and it freaking rocks man. 48V batteries, two controllers, single throttle. Upgrading to 52V or maybe even 60/72V this season. I have an alternator sitting here as well...a pretty nice size one from a 2010 Grand Caravan. Maybe I will convert it and attach it to one of my nieces or nephews ride on toys ot something and use my old ebike controllers / 48v batteries and see what it can do. Like strap it to a push bike or something lol. I have a few keyed freewheel adapters and sprockets, couplers, etc. Basically I alrrady have everything I need but time lol

In the next video I used a better controller

Probably a Wye connected alternator hooked up to a Delta controller.

Yes you can with an alternator but you have to use a bigger one maybe 200A or more and pass huge currents and high voltages.

Back of a napkin calculation says nope... Here's why: An automotive alternator must follow the same laws as any other electrical device. Regardless of how you manipulate the output, it cannot produce more voltage without lowering the amperage. Likewise, you cannot increase the amperage without sacrificing some voltage. 200 amps at 12 volts 100 amps at 24 volts 50 amps at 48 volts 50x48=2,400 watts maximum. Given losses for friction, heat, and other real world conditions, you could be sure to produce the 4,000 Watts at 48 volts desired by using a pair of 200 amp alternators.

Alternators range from 35A to 320A for automotive uses, probably larger for big rigs or trains. If you go from 12V to 48V it WILL overheat a 12V device. Ohms law means 4X the voltage is going to push 4X the current through everything, and probably start a fire, met it down etc. Best stay under 14.5 volts, as that is the max output for auto alternators.

@@extremesheepherder9 The motor doesn't care what voltage you use so long as the controller controls the current. I use a 48V battery with mine and it doesn't even heat up with a 800W controller. With a 1500W controller it will get a little hot.

I’m a complete novice. Is there anyway I can post a picture of it?

If you can send me your email we can talk about it

And yes, reverse is made by the 3 phase controller

In case of synchronous motors y and d configuration changes the rpm

correct .A.C drives in industry vary the speed of an induction motor by varying frequency, since poles are fixed ( except single phase consequent pole motors ). These are the two main factors which determine motor rpm.- % slippage.

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he doesnt know, this is clearly his first time lol

It is brushless because he removed the brushes. Then, put them back in. So, technically it was brushless for a few minutes, even though it would not work. The only part that came in a box when I started fixing vehicles, they where new from the dealer.

Yeah. I think its in the "drive it with an brushless motor controller, (with brushes and a stator instead of permanent magnets.)" But I'm sure he meant well :-)

@@kingkoopa8996 well he knows enough to give a -for the most part- accurate tutorial on how to do the conversion from alternator to motor.

It's the similar controller. See the link in description.

use an alternator to ruen another alternator? Why??

The system will always have a net loss. There's no such thing as overunity.

Since it's a 4 wire alternator. It has 4 copper wires coming from the coils. That means it's in a Y configuration and NOT Delta as you see in this video.

You need to take an ohm reading on each pair of wires and locate the common

Q

@@MadeEasyChannel why my motor its braked when i put the power to the rotor ?

@@MadeEasyChannel its dnt move when i release the power from the rotor i can turned by hand !!

If you make a pulley system and connected that to a grinder wheel, you could easily make a bench top grinder, I would think.

You'd have to isolate all the coil wires, and rewire them.

I would have to try it

@@MadeEasyChannel Hope you do, love to hear the results.

I would expect it to do nothing. With the rotor shorted, it isn't magnetic! Except maybe a tiny bit of residual magnetism.

That would turn it into a true asynchronous induction motor, but those only run the best with about 2% to 6% slip (because if they slip too much, or the rotor is stalled more and more, the rotor acts more and more like a dead short) and plus they are notoriously inefficient at startup and too much slip (which is why you can keep them stalled with not too much effort when energized) but are very frisky and powerful at 2 to 6% slip. It just depends on what you use the motor for. For the power controllers used for this conversion, one wouldn't be able to make that work because it monitors field windings for the presence of inductance from an energized rotor (when not using added hall effect sensors in the stator) to determine the position of that rotor, and until the rotor is in some kind of rotational motion (and the windings somehow excited), the circuitry won't be finding what it wants to be able to figure out which stator winding should be energized. Therefore, the stator windings will never 'rotate' (because the controller won't even begin to turn on the first winding) and therefore imparting (by inductance) energy to the rotor so that it (the rotor) can act as a magnet. On top of that, it is programmed to vary the current to the rotor through the brushes. I have no idea what would happen if this circuit is not used of the controller. There is undoubtedly more electronic reasons too for this not working. This setup is only similar to a true induction motor running on 60 or 50 Hz wall current, because (assuming we're talking about three phase) the sine waves enter the motor at 60 Hz say, and each are displaced 120° from each other. The frequency is steady and doesn't change, and the 'wall current' establishes the frequency, not a controller. The three-phase power turns on and off (effectively) the three windings in a three-phase induction motor in a rotating fashion. This is why induction motors don't need a controller to work, but they're one-speed motors as a result (unless one throws in a variable-frequency controller, but that complicates the point being made here).