Whats the fault with a 1400mm switch height on a rewire?

At 6 his 2 tel nos were dead! So looking for a decent one again, that dosnt lie , x will turn up. Do good Job, x then I can have a normal life with heat x hot water coming out of taps!. AND be able to switch a a light comes on!. Please . I phoned 9,to 5. Yesterday my supplier, was put through to all sorts of local experts. Asked where lady was x does she work for eon?, yes! She said. It was great to get a real person who didn't pass me on to recording of a deaf person that asks yes or no but dosnt hear answer,x puts me to somone who another one, so are you local as I asked the Welsh, Scottish, x Melton mulberry, locals,. ," where are you, ? " I Asked."SOUTH AFRICA"she replied. So I gave up x had late breakfast,x e mailed as recording said its faster easy, it didn't send message,so today I will send letters,x hope my supplier dosnt bin them. Then I will look for another expert that is expert?

@@antoinettehellyer9522 I'll be honest i read about 3 lines then stopped.

@@alhughes9698 Sorry

@@alhughes9698 No fault really, the customer just requested the switches a little higher throughout the house.

Confident Adam and yourself could take them in a flight.

I might have a similar job one day 🙄 im not far 😂😂😂

Do you go as far as Coventry?

Hes been using that Bundy10 discount code so now he can afford to undercut you

@@1mannik I doubt it with his prices!

Yup. I recently paid a plumber to do some work I couldn’t do without a ticket and he made such a mess I redid half of it after he left.

@@GoForGold256 then you had a VERY CHEAP one!!!! the prices or paying a cheap plumber are not mentioned ever!! i wonder why??????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

@@irshicosmos3233 ah no. He was bloody expensive. And he charged me between $25-$50 for each joint fitting and I know they’re only $2-$15 at the wholesaler. End of the day, couldn’t trust him to come back and couldn’t afford to pay twice for another plumber to redo the work. Daylight robbery I believe they call it?

Absolutely, i did brakelines on my car a few years ago before MOT and the garage that checked it after said it looked superb, and even better then what they would have done them self. 🙂

It makes sense though. A competent and well-researched DIY installer will go to the effort to learn how to do it properly and usually has the impetus to carry it out correctly, because then he or she knows it has been done to a good standard. A botch-job electrician (or mechanic, or brickie) will take every shortcut to do it quickly and cheap. They're dire.

It's interesting watching with Canadian eyes, because loose wires are absolutely not allowed here in residential. And all wires going into junction boxes or device boxes have to be clamped as well as clipped within a certain distance of the box. Seeing all the loose cables in walls and under cabinets and such is such a shock to my system! Haha

niet lullen. julliue ouwehoeren over kwaliteit maar zeggen nooit hoeveel je hebt betaalt. ik ga zeker voor een kwaliteits bedrijf met mijn magere portomonnee. maar weet dat ze goed werk leveren dan wel met garantie. ga je de goedkoopste bellen ja dan krijg je GEEN kwaliteit. tenzij je net die ENE monteur heb. ook nog een aandacht puntje. ga je huis zelf bedraden en je huis fikt af... succes met je VERZEKERING!!!

I’ve done 30 building projects in South Africa … and see the same. We have used 3 electricians / companies in the past and the work I felt was sub par. Not neat, conduit run at angles…. Lack of sufficient ties, clips or supports. The electricians usually just arrived and left their tog laborers to run the cable. Then came back at the end of the day and terminated to a spur or breaker. Ever since, I run my own cable, install my boxes and pre wire my plugs/lights or breakers. I then pay 1 hour for a certified electrician to terminate the connection. Which keeps my insurance cover and house compliant.

In the past we had 3 different “professional electricians” come in and do work in new rooms we built…. Every single one of them simply dropped unskilled/tog labour who ran cable (which was not neat or straight). Ever since, I’ve run my own cable and conduit, laser levelled everything, used more ties, clips or support than they would ever use. Make sure my cable is stamped and rated (as I’ve seen electrical companies use off-brand chinese cable that is unmarked). I prewire everything at the DB and pay a registered electrician to terminate the breaker, to comply with code. Usually, they bill me 1 hour for their final work.

Agree. Let's be fair, the whole Anti-DIY thing is often 'warranted'. As Jordan did say, sometimes however, there is an assumption dodgy work was done by a DIY'er, but was actually done by a 'proper' electrician who did not care. But they have taken a sensible approach imo. Its clear the person has taken significant care so the EICR followed by their work is ok. Maybe if it were me (as in the DIY'ER) i would bring in sparks for the EICR before closing up just to make it easier for the spark to do a full check of the cable runs. I KNOW why there is anti-DIY and I Do understand it and to an extent agree. But it is very situational and less 'pre-judgement' should be applied.

@@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_you Yes it's annoying, lots of bodgers out there, the guy who used to own my current place was one of them. Found some horrors here after I moved in and got the floor boards up for a mooch, he left old back boxes in cavities, CPCs disconnected, no fly leads, no grommets, under rated junctions on 32A ring for spurs which had got hot and resulted in melting, 1.5mm^2 on plug to porch light with 13A fuse (should have been on lighting circuit / at least a fused spur at 3A), exposed single conductors, lack of cable grips on ceiling roses, even simple things like light switches not being up the right way, the list goes on... Yes technically it all worked but in my opinion dangerous as hell... Got a trusted electrician in for EICR and paid him to fix all C1s and C2s and in much better place now and new CU with dual RCD / metal housing etc, fire risks addressed and so on... The C3s I fix as I go, mostly things like grommets missing on back boxes and identifying sleeving missing on switched lines etc... But yes, someone who doesn't know what they are doing but thinks they do is very dangerous and a recipe for disaster.

@@robputt totally agree. But there are 'certified' sparks who can also be just as bad if not worse. My 'gripe' and one I do see across a lot of different types of channel is the instant 'bad work == must be a diy'er' as it totally ignores a significant issue with the industry as a whole.... there are certified people doing unbearably dangerous work as well and they are technically doing it 'legally'. I do however, agree that they rightly refuse to certify work they didnt do (and I would certainly NEVER even advocate that people should). They are did the EICR to define the state of the install as it was before they arrived, and only signed off on their work. Building control would have had to be involved somewhere down the line and they are the ultimate 'arbitrator' if you know what I mean. Sparks certs end up at building control anyways who then rubber stamp and file away. So building control is also able to sign off on works as well without a spark. I for one would never, ever suggest to anyone to do their own rewire..... but I also am aware that I personally following 18th Ed. and with enough time, effort, and will could do a 1st fix up the the same standard as any spark. Repeating Jordan somewhat, its better for a spark to make a professional judgement based on the condition of the work they can see and talking to the client. If its clear from both talking to the client and the condition of the work that they are totally clued up, know what they've done, why they've made decisions they have etc. and genuinely have taken a lot of care and thought (and had covered the legals of notifiable work with building control - which is a clear indicator of someone doing everything they should) then this idea of 'i wont touch any work done by a DIY'er' (empathisis on 'any') is frustrating and a bit of crock.... (there is an assumption in thoes sorts of statement that no one is capable of drilling holes in joists and threading a piece of copper wrapped in various plastics, and fixing fire rated clips better than the spark... clearly significant numbers cannot, but thats not the same as none - this is all inside the frame of 1st fix. Lots of aspects of 2nd fix are very much outside these points) I personally wouldn't have closed up before the EICR as that makes it even better for the spark to see the work done and an opportunity for the client to explain any decisions made backed up with the appropriate regs etc.. This isn't aimed at any particular person or comment, just my general opinion.

@@robputt One of the dangers of the internet age- I recently had a former workmate and friend, who got a major belt from a DIY backyard spotlight... They had gone 'online' and wired a a backyard 150W 'portaflood' lamp base up- according to US wiring colours!!! Unfortunately, it meant that here in Australia- the switched active is white, and the neutral is black, where the US colour codes is white for neutral and black for 'live'.... Had this been a fully shrouded compliant lamp base- it wouldn't have been an issue... However this was one of those ES bases that 'I can see the metal on the bulb' ones without the shroud... the end result was that while climbing a ladder- he get a belt off the lamp from its exposed 'live' metal threads- and ended up lying on the lawn instead of being 3m up the ladder!!! Luckily he didn't land a metre to the side- as then he would have had his back land on a brick garden edge- hello wheelchair for the rest of your life possibly... :-(

DIY'er here. I am gradually sorting out my house, getting ride of crappy 70's, 80's and 90's wiring and past DIY bodges. I spend hours watching and learning before doing anything, and I also test with my multimeter and basic IR tester. I will need a CU change at some point, and I will get a spark to do that as I just don't have the test equipment to do it (to do RCD tests for example). We are not all bodgers, and I take pride in what I do.

You need to call energy supplier to install iso to outgoing tails, called a de-en/re-en. Actually illegal for anyone to pull cut-out fuse if not qualified, including sparks unless authorised...

I work for the local DNO where I live and as I understand it anything out the top of the cut out isn't legally ours to touch and is firstly the meter supplier tails and meter and then the internal tails to the consumer unit. I wholly agree there should be a solution to fit an isolation switch for domestic isolation from the main network but as I understand we can't just do that work ourselves at the point in the supply chain it would be required and I don't believe there's any regulatory requirement that we have to so making us shoulder the cost for work on a part of the circuit that isn't ours seems unreasonable unless OFGEM deem we should etc. Further to that I had a smart meter fitted and my meter supplier actually fitted double pole isolation switch on the out going meter tails for free of charge without even asking. I'd be interested on other peoples thoughts as I'm definitely on board with the idea but with the legal set up etc. I struggle to see how it would become the DNO responsibility.

@@tiggerthegreeb yep, making the DNO responsible for safety in regard to an isolator would be totally unreasonable!

When did they stop putting isolators in. Most places I've seen have them really ancient metal box isolators

This cookie cutter approach sounds good.

You could make yourself a wooden template and take it wherever it's needed.

I WAS a 16-17-18Th ED qualified sparks before I retired working mainly on commercial electrical work. My employer wouldnt pay for me to get part P (Why would he?) so I paid to do Part P myself. and I was registered with my local Council in Hampshire as such. Back in 2017 my daughter bought a flat in Oxford. So I called the Oxford B/Control to check I was OK to go ahead as I did here. They said just crack on, certify the install and make sure I have my qualification Certs when I present my install Cert and I am good to go. Long story short, by the time she bought the flat and I got in to complete the install ( and fit the Kitchen/ Bathroom Etc.) 6 Months+ had passed. When I rang Oxford B/Control, I ended up having the get the "head of B/Control" out to the flat and had to spend 2 hours convincing him I knew my stuff!!!!! Long story short, he told me that B/c will no longer "sign off electrical installations as they are not qualified to sign off 3Rd party work because by so doing, they would be liable personally and commercially!" . He did THANKFULLY understand that I knew my stuff and did on THAT occasion sign off the installation as a 1 off ( After interrogation ) because of the fact I had enquired prior to commencement of the works. If I paid to join NICIEC -Napit then THEY (as the body) then become liable for assessing off my EIC's. I think I was lucky to get away with that. I checked with another sparks in Brighton who said that the B/Cs in his are would no longer accept. The moral of the story is..... ASSUME that the B/Control will NOT accept your Certs unless your a member of NICEIC Etc. ! I hope this helps!

They don't put a isolator in because they want to charge you for doing so.

@@martdaymo untrained person should not be pulling fuse must be select or eic registered as per electical regulations also electrician should not be working on electric meter as he is not authourised

I work for a DNO and have come across this many times. Legally we only own up to the top of the cut out before the meter therefore (even though it makes total logical and health and safety sense) we aren't legally allowed to touch any of the cables to the meter or from it so fitting an isolation switch is simply something we are not allowed to do without being asked to (which then becomes chargeable due taking up our normal working hours time) or in situations where safety is a concern with customers installations in specific scenarios. Further to that the logistics of retrofitting the millions of meter points in the UK with isolation switches is a mammoth task. A lot of problems like this are around because of how cut outs and meter point legal set ups were agreed on in the past before it became obvious common sense to need such isolation switches. There's lots of stuff out there 50-60 years old still.

Even if it was a small job, can you still get a mwc of building control or is it just for the notifiable areas consumer unit, new circuit, bathroom etc

And thats the thing... building control sub contract out their inspection work.... to a sparkie to sign off.... now as you are not able to sign off other peoples work, how does that work??

laughable system, isn’t it?

Same in the UK!

Wish I could say the same for Sweden, but here everything permanently installed is certified sparks only.

Cool thanks for sharing

Maybe Openreach could learn a thing or two from UKPN - it's the same principle ;)

I 100% agree with lack of staff, 😂 however we do get notified by meter suppliers in the event a smart meter loses power and have to investigate it as its deemed that its a power cut from our network until we attend and work out why its happened. You are right that we don't always attend quickly but on some occasions it does happen and I've caught electricians "red handed" as it were. I normally just do a slap on the wrist and make them aware. There really should be an isolation switch to make safe the domestic side.

Coming soon!

You ain’t poaching him mate! 😆

@@artisanelectrics money talks Jordan 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@marklivingstone3121 in London you would need to pay him six figures minimum and housing benefit, Cambridge is not too far off though.

Thanks

If you have a friend electrician or DIYer, all you have to do to get them to help out is start talking about how AC has a positive and negative side... :D Keep adding bullshit until you hear the golden "How about I just do it for you, okay?" xD

R u a qualified electrician?