Diesel heater upgade 200% more efficient

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D&S Farm NS

D&S Farm NS

4 місяці тому

Update because a lot of our viewers ask for the affiliat link.
Vevor links for Canada
5 Kw small s.vevor.com/bfQQBG
s.vevor.com/bfQQBS
5 kw wide s.vevor.com/bfQQB3
Vevor links for US
8 Kw small s.vevor.com/bfQQB9
5KW wide s.vevor.com/bfQPRn
Welcome to our new Homestead video.
In this video we like to show you how we made the diesel heater
in our workshop way more efficient than it came out of the box
more heat for free .
How it turns out you can find out now by watching this video.
Have fun by watchin it.
#dieselheater #cheapheater #shopheater
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Video link to our first Diesel heater Video:
• VEVOR chinese diesel h...
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КОМЕНТАРІ: 522
@ProlificInvention
@ProlificInvention 3 місяці тому
Ive been doing this for 3 years with an old steam radiator, have many videos about it here on YT. It works fantastic, no condensation problems as the armchair quarterbacks and internet experts always bring up. I have over 1000 hours of use with no issues, you want the exhaust from the heater to go in on the bottom of the radiator, exhaust out the top port which allows convection and hot air rising to remove condensation. The large internal volume of the steam radiator prevents backpressure so the combustion fan doesnt work too hard like it would with a long exhaust run, the hot air convection from the heater exhaust coming in from the bottom and exiting out the top (in my system) propels the exhaust out without putting undue work on the heaters fan, it also allows the stored heat in the thermal mass to continue to remove moisture even when the heater is off.
@razvanon
@razvanon 3 місяці тому
how much diesel does it burn per hour ?
@RobHereAKATrev2323
@RobHereAKATrev2323 3 місяці тому
Good read, I havent installed mine yet. I did read the exhaust MUST be down. I like reading someone who has actualy done this
@dancarter482
@dancarter482 3 місяці тому
Interesting - I have a heat exchanger to rig up to my Webasto exhaust that will share a coolant loop with the radiator circuit. Trying to get the pipe as short as possible before entering a 3inch full exhaust system - for the same reasons as you've explained.
@ProlificInvention
@ProlificInvention 3 місяці тому
@dancarter482 That's awesome, I remember seeing a commercially produced heat exchanger unit specifically made for diesel heaters on *David McLuckie* YT channel, as well as DIY versions using EGR heat exchangers or coils of copper etcetera...very interesting indeed. The unit that comes to mind was this fella who built the most amazing converted army truck RV-he uses both a woodstove and a diesel heater to warm his hot water tank as well as the coolant loop for the diesel engine, its quite a slick setup: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/sWinf56daKZirZs.htmlsi=mfY0eX63LbbP1oRP
@vanblindguy4600
@vanblindguy4600 3 місяці тому
How does condensation not end up sitting in bottom of radiator? Or are you saying the heat vaporizes it and pushes it out with the exhaust? Seems like the down draft shown here would simply allow the moisture that's created to flow out with the exhaust at the bottom. Or are you saying the condensation that is created simply does not create any problems?
@dsfarmns2823
@dsfarmns2823 4 місяці тому
Many people who watch this video are of the opinion in their comments that heat rises upwards, which is physically correct, but cold falls downwards, which also creates a downward suction in the radiator. That's why the entrance is always at the top and the cold that occurs when it cools down doesn't have to fight against the rising heat. On a car radiator the hot water inlet is at the top and on a household radiator the inlet is always at the top to achieve optimal heat exchange. It is also correct that you should not make the exhaust pipe too long, otherwise the resulting flow resistance will be too high, but given the flow cross section and the length of the components installed here, this shouldn't really have an impact. Since the difference in height between the exhaust gas outlet and the radiator inlet is approximately 45 cm or 18", there is virtually no back pressure. An exhaust silencer would generate more back pressure. And with an exhaust gas temperature of over 150 degrees Celsius, there is guaranteed to be no condensation in the pipe On the contrary, it will evaporate and condense again in the radiator where this condensate can then drain downwards. It is absolutely likely that deposits will accumulate somewhere in the system, but the solution to this is regular maintenance and cleaning. Every boiler, fireplace and chimney must be cleaned regularly, even Chinese diesel heaters are not maintenance-free forever.
@autojohn-pu1vf
@autojohn-pu1vf 3 місяці тому
I like your design and am planning something similar...after seeing a bunch of Tubbers designs I think an oil or car radiator would be most efficient but I worry about corrosion. My idea is to run the exhaust thru a honda or toyota radiator and have the fan cycled with a fan relay in the heater, but i wonder how long it will last w/o antifreeze. That one your using is designed to run water through isn't it? an oil radiator might not last with water going through it either.
@dh2032
@dh2032 3 місяці тому
@@autojohn-pu1vf how about radiator that just all pipe pipe connectors the the think stuff like in this video
@autojohn-pu1vf
@autojohn-pu1vf 3 місяці тому
@@dh2032 I"ve seen some fellers on the Tube do that but it looks like a hassle... leaning towards getting salvage yard rad/fan and hanging a CO detector on it , with frequent inspections.
@dsfarmns2823
@dsfarmns2823 3 місяці тому
pipes are more expensive now than a cast radiator for 50 bucks
@whytepizza
@whytepizza 3 місяці тому
People think that but it's simpler than the rise and fall. Hot always moved towards cold. The thermodynamics of thermal energy is straight forward with that
@daveunderwood6498
@daveunderwood6498 Місяць тому
I have to say that this is one of the best ideas I have seen on UKposts. Of course condensation will form in the rad, but being cast iron and the exhaust low, it will drip out the bottom. Those heaters burn so efficiently that you won't have to worry about soot collecting in the rad. To test for this possibility, when it's new, record the temperature drop from top of rad to the bottom. After running it for months, or years, keep testing the temperature difference. If soot is forming on the inside of the rad, the temperature difference will become less. The exhaust temperature, at the floor will increase. The soot will act as an insulation. I can't see that happening though because of the burn efficiency. I only thing I would do differently is a more positive, sealed connection between the iron pipe and the heaters' flex line. Easy fix. As for the haters in the comment section, these people are shocking ignorant to basic science. You can tell they have done nothing in life. Nice job. It has given me some ideas.👍
@digiital
@digiital 3 місяці тому
Make sure you can drain the radiator because the exhaust is humid and going through the rad it will condensate the water in it, unless the output is right at the bottom. . Place a few computer fans blowing against the rad to dissipate some of that heat into the room. Also you should be getting fresh air from outside because you are using the air in the shop and exhaust is pushing that air out so to compensate for the air going out, it will draft into the shed from all the cracks
@schrodingerscat1863
@schrodingerscat1863 Місяць тому
Problem you are going to have with this setup is condensation in the radiator. The condensate is very acidic so it will rust that radiator though in no time. You can get round that however by using a stainless steel radiator. Also you need to have the exhaust coming out of the heater going down into the radiator so there is no chance of condensate collecting in the tube. I have a similar setup myself except I packed the exhaust radiator in sand as thermal storage so I can turn off the heater and get several hours of residual heat.
@colin8532
@colin8532 4 місяці тому
Brilliant, this is way better than what I had planned because that cast iron rad will also act as a thermal mass, which will continue to keep things warm a little longer, even after the heater shuts off.
@patthesoundguy
@patthesoundguy 3 місяці тому
Hello from Windsor NS! That idea is exactly something I was thinking about, now you aren't wasting all of that heat!
@jasonbroom7147
@jasonbroom7147 4 місяці тому
For this to work, long term, you need to have the exhaust pipe from the diesel heater well above the radiator, so the condensation will flow down and out, through the radiator, as vapor. The way you have it set up, currently, the heater will eventually clog.
@tomasviane3844
@tomasviane3844 4 місяці тому
I was going to write the same remark. All the condensation will stay in the exhaustpipe the way it was set up. Maybe fit the exhaust to the bottom and do the pipe on top through the floor?
@skunkjobb
@skunkjobb 4 місяці тому
The temperature in the flex pipe going from the heater upwards to the radiator is so high that you don't get condensation there. Maybe a few drops at startup but it evaporates as soon as it gets up to working temp. I have the flex pipe going upwards in my boat and have had no issues in the five years I've used it.
@matthewq4b
@matthewq4b 4 місяці тому
WRONG ....There is no condensation once the heater is up to temp (a couple mins) and any condensation that collects in the radiator will drain out. By your logic every vertical exhaust on every diesel engine ever would plug up.
@chrisharrell2449
@chrisharrell2449 4 місяці тому
Just to agree with the others, you can't have an exhaust pipe going up the way. It'll just fill up with vapour and condensation It must constantly go downhill. for this to work long term. If you look at the silencer. even that has a hole in the bottom to get rid of vapour for that very reason. You will need to raise the heater. or to have a Lower. Radiator. In principle, it should work OK then. The other option. is to use. a part from a car. I think they call it EcG. It allows you to pass the exhaust through. a water chamber. and then send the water through the radiator. That could work on your existing radiator so long as you have the exhaust at floor level. as it enters its heat exchanger. You would just need a small expansion chain. literally tiny. nothing bigger. than the size. on a car. Radiator top up. and it won't even need to be under a pressure. So long as it's at the right height.
@matthewq4b
@matthewq4b 4 місяці тому
@@chrisharrell2449 You really don't have a clue what you're talking about do you.
@sswwooppee
@sswwooppee 4 місяці тому
This is a really neat idea. Repurposing a radiator this way is super creative.
@robertscholz4486
@robertscholz4486 3 місяці тому
Nice idea to recoup the heat lost by the exhaust, but I would have turned the unit around to have the heat vent also blowing through the radiator. This would have a two fold benefit: 1. it would help to heat up the thermal mass of the cast iron radiator quicker, and 2. Once up to operating temperature the hot air passing through the fins of the now heated radiator would distribute the heat from the radiator better. On a side note, I would definitely add a 90° elbow to that exhaust under the shop and run it out from the perimeter of the shop (the rockwool may help where you drilled the hole, but there may be a couple seams on the underside to let fumes back up into the shop).
@daleb5967
@daleb5967 3 місяці тому
Not really. Heat inside is what matters. If you transfer heat to other objects changes nothing .....unless it increase heat radiated to the outside, which it might. Capturing exhaust heat helps but dumping heat into a cast iron heat exchanger instead of aluminum is less efficient but better than just dumping it.
@norm5785
@norm5785 4 місяці тому
Thank you for sharing your awesome exhaust heat capture solution. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
@jamesloewen4801
@jamesloewen4801 2 місяці тому
I have my heater exhaust hooked up to a 40 plate flat plate heat exchanger connected to my boats hot water tank. The heater heats my boat, the exhaust heats the water. It works amazing. It heats the 9 gallon tank from 70F to 130F in under 90 minutes. As long as the water is above 70 I I’ve no issues with condensation or soot.
@jamesloewen4801
@jamesloewen4801 2 місяці тому
I should mention the water thermo siphons through the exchanger, meaning the water is constantly at 180 approximately. I also remove the exchanger often to make sure it’s clean and remove any condensation.
@unstablenester941
@unstablenester941 2 місяці тому
I love your idea. Thanks for sharing. I am looking for a unit to heat my sailboat and then in winter, transfer the setup to my truck and also pre warm the engine, and you just solved the problem. I am a heating tech and have access to many different stainless steel heat exchangers. You made it all come together, buddy. Thanks
@petesfeeder
@petesfeeder 4 місяці тому
I'm so glad you did this. I was planning the same set-up with a heater I just purchased and have a radiator already. Thank you for proving concept. Much love
@johgude5045
@johgude5045 3 місяці тому
better go for a stainless steel pipe with slightly larger inner diameter as your exhaust hose and root the exhaust gas through that. I use a 2.6m long pipe that simply goes through the room and then exits with a slight downward slope. The pipe then just goes through the wall. The end of the pipe is at around 30°C so i get the same efficiency with much less effort and dont even have corrosion problems. I put a small bucked that collects the condensate under the exit of the pipe outside of the building so the sulfur does not go into the environment. The whole thing cost me around 30 bucks.
@jesusc4384
@jesusc4384 3 місяці тому
thanks, that's a great idea, and what makes it even better is I have a small cast iron radiator sitting unused in the basement. I am quite satisfied with my little diesel heater, but I have been thinking of a way to recover the heat lost through the exhaust because my shop is quite a bit too large for the poor heater (20ftx30ft) and I live in a cold climate.
@trevortrevortsr2
@trevortrevortsr2 3 місяці тому
On a Russian site a man did this and did a lot of calculations based on the actual heat values - he concluded the heater itself produced just over 4kw on high and his radiator added a further 1.5 kw making a total of a little over 5.5kw - in another of his posts, he concluded that the 5 and 8kw heaters were in most cases the same!
@SnowingNapalm
@SnowingNapalm 3 місяці тому
i like how any condensation in your heat reclaiming exhaust just would continue safely out the floor no buildup❤
@LarsDcCase
@LarsDcCase 3 місяці тому
Very interesting video. And a real bonus for us viewers. No annoying, irritating, loud background music. except for a little at the end of the video. 👍
@homeistheearth
@homeistheearth 3 місяці тому
That was a great idea and good way to upcycle an old radiator!! Nicely done too!
@otool
@otool 2 місяці тому
Thank you for making this. I’ve always thought the exhaust made so much waste heat in diesel heaters. Rv heaters etc. Awesome to see you come up with a way to harvest it.
@bakeredwards
@bakeredwards 3 місяці тому
This is the best idea for a heat exchanger I've seen👍
@kingtut5923
@kingtut5923 3 місяці тому
Now that's a heat exchanger ,,,,,,,,,tell Trudea
@oddjobbob8742
@oddjobbob8742 3 місяці тому
Very clever. Thank you for producing this UKposts and sharing your creativity.
@slobodankostic9571
@slobodankostic9571 3 місяці тому
something else to consider is the intake air to the combustion chamber, take it from outside. Else you consume the hot air from inside the building and cold air will leak in from outside.😇
@eddie3314
@eddie3314 4 місяці тому
Absolutely brilliant
@jeffclark5024
@jeffclark5024 3 місяці тому
Awesome idea! I’ve been wanting to try something like this. I’ve pondered using a 55 gallon steel drum with the inlet on top and outlet on the bottom
@seriously195
@seriously195 3 місяці тому
Great idea! Since the unit and the exhaust path is inside, please make sure to have a small space carbon monoxide detector (they are made for inside of small spaces like airplanes and semi trucks and are more sensitive) inside the shop/shed. I agree with the comment that the outside exhaust outlet should be extended past the building side (instead of just down under the shed floor - ideally up past the roof peak). Also, keep an eye on the temp of the pipe going through the floor to ensure the mineral wool is taking any residual heat before it reaches the flooring wood (thinking of a chimney wall/ceiling collar and how it separates the combustible surfaces from the heat of the exhaust pipe). Nicely done!
@jacekolejniczak8726
@jacekolejniczak8726 3 місяці тому
You do not understand why monoxide is creating. Stop giving idiotic advice if you don't understand the rules.
@NordicDan
@NordicDan 3 місяці тому
@@jacekolejniczak8726 Anywhere you have a union or join in a combustion exhaust run indoors, you want a CO detector. You also don't want to exhaust any combustion equipment simply down through the floor unless it continues outward well past the building. So he sounds a lot smarter than you do, especially since he's given good advice and all you've done is make a dick of yourself without providing any input or backing up your comment at all.
@ozzymandius666
@ozzymandius666 4 місяці тому
Keep an eye on your galvanized pipe and Teflon tape temps. If either get above 200 C, they start off-gassing toxins.
@greenhometony
@greenhometony 3 місяці тому
Yeah black pipe would be safe...
@davidwright1752
@davidwright1752 3 місяці тому
Automotive gasket goo as well
@WindwalkerHomestead
@WindwalkerHomestead 3 місяці тому
I hate how much heat goes out the exhaust of these heat exchanger types. This is an amazing idea. Thank you
@donaldperson948
@donaldperson948 Місяць тому
Great idea! I love it! Great job using your head there!
@Redbeardsgarage967
@Redbeardsgarage967 3 місяці тому
If your exhaust temp is lower than 140° it will condensate which is acidic which WILL rust that radiator out faster than you think. If the rad was stainless you wouldn’t have that problem. This is exactly the reason high efficient furnaces / boilers/ hot water heaters cannot use regular tin exhaust vents, they have to be able to resist the acid which is present in consensate. Master plumber/gasfitter 25yrs
@EdA-bz3bu
@EdA-bz3bu 3 місяці тому
I would recommend putting a CO alarm that gives you actual CO read out.
@dncook1955
@dncook1955 Місяць тому
Great idea. Good thinking on putting inlet at top so that condensables can drain out the bottom.
@dancharles8950
@dancharles8950 3 місяці тому
nice to see your back making content
@mike-ul1fi
@mike-ul1fi Місяць тому
really good idea, the only thing i would find a solution for is that galvanized pipe, those exhausts get way to hot for galvanized, galvanize is very bad to breathe in when heated to those temps imo
@simonallan9941
@simonallan9941 3 місяці тому
When I first installed my diesel heater in my caravan, I connected the exhaust directly to a 3 meter length and steel 1.5" water pipe, then out through the floor, the water pipe 3" above the floor is 190° and is awesome for keeping that heat inside instead of heating up the atmosphere lol, I could have made it go around the room further.
@eby6114
@eby6114 4 місяці тому
Good job. Probably the only thing Id alter would be adding a 90 and extending the exhaust out from under the shed. I was very surprised by the lack if heat coming from the bottom of the radiator. I know heat rises but wow.
@pietbuizer1686
@pietbuizer1686 2 місяці тому
super idea... good for you
@nomadchad8243
@nomadchad8243 2 місяці тому
Ive had mine running in my garage for five years now, I think I'll try this when I reorganize later this year. the other benefit would be to hold the heat when the heater turns off, that much iron should remain hot for a while.
@electricalfive2248
@electricalfive2248 8 днів тому
if anyone wants a cheap super simple way to extract heat from the exhaust, just buy a pack of scotch bright stainless steel scrubbers. You can expand them from the middle and slip them onto the exhaust pipe. They have a ton of surface area and conduct heat from the pipe really well. they work pretty well already by passive heating, but you can add a fan to help a little. You can buy a 16 pack for $10. Thats all you need.
@harryphotos1
@harryphotos1 6 днів тому
Nice idea
@bransonred1
@bransonred1 3 місяці тому
Great job and great sense of humor!
@bamnjphoto
@bamnjphoto 3 місяці тому
Thanks for posting, i have an old radiator that i can put to use now
@steventaylor6294
@steventaylor6294 3 місяці тому
Love this. Thanks for posting.
@user-if3bs2op8d
@user-if3bs2op8d 3 місяці тому
Great job good ideas everybody has improvements to make after you do something hindsight is always 2020 but thank you for the thoughts and the information
@chrisloving6647
@chrisloving6647 3 місяці тому
I run mine through a 3meter flex exostpipe attached to a hanging piece or aluminum flashing and right before it gose out side i have it raped to the meter intake to warm the incoming air. It steams really good outdoors.
@larrystout606
@larrystout606 3 місяці тому
Great idea, thanks for sharing !!!
@wazza33racer
@wazza33racer 3 місяці тому
perfect application for the old water heater, match made in heaven.
@bradjohnson5323
@bradjohnson5323 3 місяці тому
after years the acidic condensate from the exhaust could rust a hole through it. great project but for long term use precautions need to be made.
@wilvandendoel4289
@wilvandendoel4289 3 місяці тому
Did the same thing, works fine, as long as you reduce the amount of fuel, with the default settings, the heater is running rich because off, the reduced exhaust air flow, if you keep on running it with default settings, soot will build up and clog your heater.
@ronniehall1520
@ronniehall1520 4 місяці тому
Great Idea
@littlegriffoffgridalberta6837
@littlegriffoffgridalberta6837 2 місяці тому
Great Build ! I just bought a Vevor heater to mount in my off grid camper unit :) I may buy another for my mill shed.
@jamesloewen4801
@jamesloewen4801 2 місяці тому
Try hooking the exhaust to a flat plate heat exchanger or shell and tube exchanger to heat your water in your camper. I did with my boats hot water system and it has worked an entire season.
@DOCGENIUSWILSON
@DOCGENIUSWILSON 4 місяці тому
D&S Farms NS you sir are a Genius....Peace
@BurchellAtTheWharf
@BurchellAtTheWharf 3 місяці тому
All that heat does come.from the exhaust, and this looks bloody genius 👌
@BurchellAtTheWharf
@BurchellAtTheWharf 3 місяці тому
Got one in last year's lobster boat. And in that -40 it kept the snow and ice off the wheelhouse off the #CrissyG boat
@BurchellAtTheWharf
@BurchellAtTheWharf 3 місяці тому
6:30 😅 Dumb question of the day Why knot plumb the exhaust in to the bottom as it would heat the rad up more quickly??
@BurchellAtTheWharf
@BurchellAtTheWharf 3 місяці тому
15:00 the little red one we hat, has the option to be set with a timer of when to atuo start
@dsfarmns2823
@dsfarmns2823 3 місяці тому
because if it cools down the condensat falls down and would fill the heater and it would be againt the flow => my video comment at the top
@BurchellAtTheWharf
@BurchellAtTheWharf 3 місяці тому
@dsfarmns2823 OK, that makes good sense, didn't really think about the condensation
@recumbentrocks2929
@recumbentrocks2929 Місяць тому
Great idea! I would have the exhaust coming into the bottom of the radiator as this would allow the moisture from the engine to rise out the top as steam.
@dmcarstensen
@dmcarstensen 3 місяці тому
I think you'd be able to increase the efficiency by using outside air for the combustion air intake instead of indoor air. You're creating a negative pressure space, drawing cold in inside the building. Outside air will combust the fuel just as well and wont create a negative pressure. In the end you'll use much less fuel to heat the indoor air.
@asbestomolesto
@asbestomolesto 4 місяці тому
Very nice setup! :)
@stephaneletourneau7712
@stephaneletourneau7712 3 місяці тому
just brilliant
@yotainoregon6495
@yotainoregon6495 2 місяці тому
6:00 thats brilliant!
@kennethtibbitts414
@kennethtibbitts414 10 днів тому
awesome idea
@anthonywatton6081
@anthonywatton6081 4 місяці тому
Good to see someone else in NS doing stuff like this besides me. LOL Been using these CDH for a while. You will have issues with carbon build up eventually and condensation building up with the exhaust angled upward like that. Everything on the exhaust should be on a downward slope to prevent condensation build up and giving it a path to drain. Also move the combustion air intake outside of the space, when it does foul up it and it will at some point it will dump all the exhaust gases back through the intake manifold into your room because the intake and exhaust share the same combustion space. CO monitors are a must. Stay safe and good luck.
@greenhometony
@greenhometony 3 місяці тому
Intake should be outside, it really pulls air. The way he has it pulls air in through every crack in the building....
@anthonywatton6081
@anthonywatton6081 3 місяці тому
Yes the combustion air intake should always be outside. When inside they will pull cold air in from the outside through every crack and crevice it can because of negative pressure. I have seen the result first hand from my own mistakes and experiments over time.
@dennismacwilliams196
@dennismacwilliams196 4 місяці тому
What A great idea...
@nunyabusinessfriend
@nunyabusinessfriend 3 місяці тому
This is a fantastic idea.
@BS25999
@BS25999 3 місяці тому
What a clever idea.
@stevenstiles5112
@stevenstiles5112 Місяць тому
Loved the video. Thanks.
@richardhoard5951
@richardhoard5951 3 місяці тому
I was thinking about running the exhaust through a copper coil in a tank of water, but I think your idea is simpler unless you have a use for the hot water other than thermal mass.
@dougle03
@dougle03 3 місяці тому
White PTFE tape is meant for non-corrosive liquid and gasses, the Blue PTFE os for corrosive gases and liquids. I'd take it apart and use the Blue before the White tape degrades and leaks gasses into your space... Also, heat rises, so heating should be at floor level, whereas cold sinks, thus AC should be at ceiling level. ☺☺
@trevortrevortsr2
@trevortrevortsr2 2 місяці тому
A Russian post did some tests on this type of heater and found that the 5kw produces just over 3kw and adding a radiator on the exhaust added not quite 11/4 KW - he based his results on fuel used calorific value
@werner1547
@werner1547 2 місяці тому
Very good Idea!!!!!thanks
@daveswita5483
@daveswita5483 3 місяці тому
Groovy Baby Great Ideal 10-4
@me-xg3vi
@me-xg3vi 3 місяці тому
In the loop from the exhaust, the water from the condensate will drain, and in a short time it will malfunction. It was good that the exhaust was mounted downwards towards the radiator
@bargainbin22
@bargainbin22 3 місяці тому
Now have the blowing end of the heater blowing across the radiator to pick up that heat and also move the air inlet to the first part of the radiator at the hottest part so it is picking up the hot air will make the heated air hotter. If you understand what I am saying. Sort of a loop system making it help itself heat better.
@DrFiero
@DrFiero 4 місяці тому
It’s nuts, but I went to my local commercial plumbing place (in AB) to grab some fittings, and the STAINLESS STEEL ones were waaaaaay cheaper than the normally cheap cast stuff! 😳
@TallontedTinkering
@TallontedTinkering 3 місяці тому
Absolute genius
@vasiledobanda1587
@vasiledobanda1587 3 місяці тому
Great Idea ! Super !
@mytickets
@mytickets 3 місяці тому
I agree you need to keep condensation out of steel tube or it will plug up I've had it happen to myself
@M.Campbell
@M.Campbell 3 місяці тому
Ingenious!
@offthegridwithbert924
@offthegridwithbert924 3 місяці тому
You need to drill and tap a small 1/4" fitting into the lowest point of the radiator to drain the acidic condensate out otherwise it'll sit in there and eat away at the steel and eventually leak out through the rust holes it'll make. The 1/4" brass fitting can have a drain line that can be run outside so that condensate build up will drain on it's own.
@1marcelfilms
@1marcelfilms 3 місяці тому
or install it sloped
@evsgarage
@evsgarage 3 місяці тому
hi...good idea! Better to have 45' connections between hoses. Also connect exaust output in the right bottom side of radiator. So you'll improve more exchange
@aaronenglish7522
@aaronenglish7522 3 місяці тому
Great idea
@colauty2598
@colauty2598 3 місяці тому
Brilliant & comments, what about using copper pipe which runs ( attached ) through aluminium square plates spaced close together, heat then could follow wherever the pipe ran, eventually through to outside of wall, - just a " maybe " idea : )
@user-xc7ov7in5p
@user-xc7ov7in5p 3 місяці тому
the 1st thing I did when I got my diesel-heater was to install an old radiator along with it. The exshausts gets hotter than the wearm air coming out and we do really need to take care of that. The radiator got so hot the paint on it burnt. I sandblasted it and its been running perfect since. Exhausts are cold even after 2 hours running. After about a minute u cant touch the radiator near the inlet. Im aslo running my own diesel fuel cutting down costs even more.
@fandommennis1348
@fandommennis1348 3 місяці тому
That's an ingenious idea! I've got another idea for you that might also increase efficiency. Make a shroud for the back of the radiator and then hook the heated air hose to that so the already heated air is used to make a forced air setup for the radiator as well
@michaelfields8793
@michaelfields8793 2 місяці тому
concur
@st-jeanstephane7876
@st-jeanstephane7876 3 місяці тому
😊 👍 bonne idée de utilisé un encien radiateur en fonte comme échappement des gaz
@rickrude9523
@rickrude9523 3 місяці тому
Enjoyed the vid very much.As far as condensation; would pitching it at a slope help drain any water that may build up?Single pipe steam heat accomplishes that with slope, as well as refeed water into the boiler.
@examplerkey
@examplerkey 4 місяці тому
It is 25-35% more efficient, not 200%, but I can understand your excitement 😉. The exhaust of a diesel heater wastes 0.1 to 0.7kW of energy depending on the heat setting of the heater. The 5kW heater is actually a 3kW machine. You can pass the exhaust through a bucket of water and you get hot water.
@edwinbruckner4752
@edwinbruckner4752 4 місяці тому
I was thinking the same. Im thinking about building a CH system with water ( as I already have with nat. gas ) and exactly as you said, run the exhaust trough the water for extra heating efficiency.
@NightshiftCustom
@NightshiftCustom 4 місяці тому
it was more like a 3.3kw now it is a 4kw machine
@alouisschafer7212
@alouisschafer7212 4 місяці тому
25-35% more heat is still a lot.
@examplerkey
@examplerkey 4 місяці тому
Yes the 4kW is being sold as 8kW 😂. Can't complain, better than 3.3kW! @@NightshiftCustom
@NightshiftCustom
@NightshiftCustom 3 місяці тому
@examplerkey there all rated at 5kw but they like to lie and say 8kw. pretty normal for anything from China and even then there really only about 4kw. But there is a newer model that is about 6kw rated at 8kw and has a bigger burn chamber with a 3.5" outlet but only a few company's are selling them. There is also a smaller 2kw model available
@lucapipino3784
@lucapipino3784 3 місяці тому
Great idea!! I can suggest you to improve the insulation of the exaust gas outlet or reduce the number of radiator elements to improve the heater draft. Gases must be prevented from condensing inside the elements
@gbear1005
@gbear1005 2 місяці тому
A meter of standard exhaust, always going down or sloped downwards, with a small fan blowing on it will yield room temp exhaust at the end with no carbon. Also have the intake on the inside air to limot the effect of having to heat the air too.
@captainotto
@captainotto 2 місяці тому
I made a recouperator for mine with a 3m coiled section of the same exhaust tubing. It's got a riser section coming out of the heater and coils downward to the outlet. No fan, purely convective. Exhaust temps at the recouperator outlet are around 40c and just as you're experiencing, no soot. I was surprised as I was expecting at least some soot. I get lots of condensate as evidenced by the large puddles the thing makes, but I'll take a puddle with the extra BTUs. Its a garage I'm heating. Puddles there won't hurt anything.
@f.d.6667
@f.d.6667 3 місяці тому
You need to add a drain valve to get rid of condensate building up in your radiator. Alternatively, use a more modern type (sheet metal) and tilt it so the condensate can exit via the exhaust.
@derrickboatman1560
@derrickboatman1560 3 місяці тому
I had thoughts of trying to capture the heat from the exhaust but everything I thought I was way more complicated than this. My only thought is that I would use a high temperature silicone hose to connect the radiator instead of metal tape. But excellent job I think I'm going to do this instead.
@davidwalesby2426
@davidwalesby2426 3 місяці тому
could you use a radiator for a car with a fan behind it blowing the heat around the room ? or would it get too hot and melt the soldier joints?
@denisrozon8588
@denisrozon8588 4 місяці тому
great video ! Well done my friend. Been waiting a long time to watch your videos.; How is your methane gas project coming along???
@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESEL
@SMOKEY-JAYS-DIESEL 3 місяці тому
This is awesome 💯😎
@hopechannelcat5462
@hopechannelcat5462 3 місяці тому
great idea. thanks
@martindOO7
@martindOO7 3 місяці тому
Good video. What about condensate in the cast iron rad? With the temp being close to freezing at the outlet id expect condensate forming...
@JohnSmith-ki2eq
@JohnSmith-ki2eq 3 місяці тому
You could also build a sand battery and run the exhaust through that to prvide a thermal mass that will carry on pushing out heat after the heater is turned off.
@evil17
@evil17 3 місяці тому
I was thinking the same thing, a sand battery could be done incorporating a built in copper tube wound heat exchanger for hot water as well.
@NordicDan
@NordicDan 2 місяці тому
I recently picked up an old cast iron radiator a bit smaller than that one, for just the same purpose. I plan to initially get it set up and running, then maybe during the summer months completely strip it down and put fresh primer and paint on it. How big of an improvement in ambient heat would you say it made? Judging by the 91C measurement you took, I would assume quite a bit?
@TomTom-jy9ot
@TomTom-jy9ot 3 місяці тому
Great idea!
@saulthompson6613
@saulthompson6613 4 місяці тому
Should feed exhaust into bottom of the rad and out on the other side bottom. Heat rises. Rad would be heated way more evenly. Plug the top fitting. And no galvanized pipe in exhaust, too hot, zinc fumes released over time. Other than that - well done.
@NightshiftCustom
@NightshiftCustom 4 місяці тому
the water build up needs to drain out the bottom
@saulthompson6613
@saulthompson6613 4 місяці тому
@@NightshiftCustom it also does not flow very well when frozen.
@billnolin9423
@billnolin9423 4 місяці тому
I hope you have a carbon monoxide detector. in your shop. the fumes will still come up through the floor piping it down like that. But it does look like a good way to get some more heat out of it.
@emmanuelgermain769
@emmanuelgermain769 3 місяці тому
I like the idea that you tried out and many people have good suggestions to help improve the design. I think I myself would have gone in a different direction using the same principle that you have used. What I want to test out is more costly but I really want to try and see the outcome. I'm interested in trying out the radiator but I think I will try using a heat exchanger in order to heat up a super insulated tank of glycol mixture that will itself circulate through a cast iron radiator with a circulating pump. This way you keep the exhaust in its own little world where it can condensate, drip where it needs to and the heating part free of the corrosive elements. I might be wrong but I think the glycol mixture might have a better contact throughout the radiator and possibly make it dissipate heat more evenly. Anyways it's an idea I want to try and see how good that version might work.
@j.r.millstone
@j.r.millstone 2 місяці тому
To make it operate better you could move the air intake (or the heat exhaust) to the opposite side of the room so that the warm air will be pulled across the room.
@ronkittle1268
@ronkittle1268 3 місяці тому
Basically 100% efficient...good on you lad...I'm with the other guy on that flue condensate though..
@CoolMusicToMyEars
@CoolMusicToMyEars 2 місяці тому
I think the idea is brilliant BUT I feel you're Heater unit must be located higher to allow the condensation to flow down & out of the radiator outside, The way it is at the moment your creating a U loop with no way for the condensation to run away .
@dirksensenstein8863
@dirksensenstein8863 2 місяці тому
At this point is no condensation never please watch the update video
@ColCurtis
@ColCurtis 2 місяці тому
If the exhaust temp is above the boiling point of water, no condensation can occur. However, he will get condensation inside the radiator, and it will freeze possibly plugging the exhaust if the output temp is below zero. There is a reason the heater is designed to have exhaust Temps above 100 C
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