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It may be an idea to add a mains fuse for safety as well as earth the heat plate, otherwise a great project. Thanks for sharing!

You need to connect a ground wire to the hot plate because it is made of metal! Good project👍👍👍

All projects with heaters should include a one-time or resettable thermal cut-off, such as a normally-closed, manual-reset temperature switch attached to the heater and in series with its power circuit. This is *especially* true when using solid-state relays, which tend to fail closed and must have backup cut-offs to avoid runaway. Mechanical relays are noisier and less durable, but they are safer as they tend to fail in the open position.

Another great video! I really enjoyed watching this build. You even threw in a short thermistor tutorial! Thanks for sharing.

Put a glass Pyrex bowl (upside down) over the plate and PCB, that removes all the instability of room air currents and you will get more reliable and repeatable soldering. It also means you can use less total heat under the PCB so less chance of PCB burn and de-lamination problems.

Interesting Project! However, I would suggest that you use the glass transition temperature instead of the printing temperature when choosing a material for the case. The glass transition temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to soften and loose it´s strength, while at the printing temperature the material is already so soft that it can easily flow through the printer nozzle. For ABS the glass transition temperature is already at ~105°C, so I would be a bit careful when leaving the heater on for extended periods of time, as the radinant heat from the heater could soften the plastic around the top of the case where your metal plate is screwed in. To avoid the metal plate from falling and shorting out your circuit board I would maybe consider adding some way of supporting it from the bottom.

I really like this idea over a reflow oven for prototyping PCB's.

Great project, however I strongly recommend anyone who wants to build it to implement at least a minimum of safety features found in any consumer product to reduce the chance of electrocution or fire (grounding of all exposed metal parts, one or more fuses to account for common errors, galvanic isolation between Arduino and 220 V net (depending on how much you trust the isolation of the SSR), adding clearance and creepage distance between 220V and 5V net on the prototype board (ideally splitting the board and have a few millimeter air gap), properly mounting 220V lines (I wouldn't trust hot glue with my live), add some electrical isolation between temperature probe and heat plate (not needed when plate is grounded) .... Maybe implementing all of this is overkill but at the very least please ground the metal parts, this increases the safety significantly.

Nice little hot plate. I agree with all the others about adding a 3-prong cord, fuse and grounding the hotplate for safety! I added a second mode for doing low temp solder (138C) and it all works great. Thanks for the great idea.

Reflow hot plate version 2. This looks awesome. 🤩🤩 Keep it up.

These guides are thorough and easy to understand, thank you.

Hard work and efforts in this project payed off

Neat build. As others mentioned, the glass transition temperature, i.e. the point where the plastic softens, is the crucial parameter to consider. PLA, ABS etc. can be successfully annealed to push the threshold higher, particularly improving PLA, so that would be an option if it proved necessary.

The plastic pipes welding machine that use the plumbers is an excellent temperature adjustable heating plate with flat surface that can do reballing bga or prebaking,led strips repair,soldering pcb and of course can do the job that is intended for.

Excellent project! Might I suggest adding a mode for a fixed temperature. This could be useful if you want to replace a broken mobile phone screen and need to heat it to soften up the glue. I will definitely be building this.

Amazing project! Just built and works perfectly! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you man, I will definitely build this. I have just a little amount of smd projects and this thing is a good start befor buying a pricey one

these are the kinds of dyi stuff that i have zero use for and i know i wont ever make it but i still love watching these videos and learning how to make them xD

Very thorough exploration of device's capabilities.

Awesome little project. IMO a hot plate is a must even if one has a reflow oven, especially for reworking. Currently I'm designing a single board computer for an embedded biopotential logger. I think this project will be useful if I want to assemble the board myself. Now, if only the ICdemic would cease, so that I can source my parts.

Great project! The only thing I’d do differently is using a grounded power cord and hook up the ground lead to the metal frame. This will ensure user’s safety when placing and removing boards from the heating surface.

Excellent !! Have you read my mind !?? I just buy a hot plate on Aliexpress last week to do that 😄 thank you ! As a result, I just going to follow your project, it's very cool 👏👏👍

I have not seen it mentioned in the video or in the comments, but I have used the same hotplate (and a smaller version about half size) with just a power switch. It uses a PTC heater so the resistance (and power) drops as it heats up. If I remember correctly, I think mine self regulates at 260C so keeping power on is not as terrible as the hot iron version. I believe it will still get to operating temp at 110v but will just take longer to get there.

I love the way you engineer things from the ground up, I do the very same thing. I think Edison or Tesla would love having you help them in the lab. Sometimes I get stumped on a project , it would be great if you were around to add some advice.

You are magican ! Cheers from Poland brother !!!!

Nice project! Might I add a few suggestion... Ground wire Fuse Use the same pcb for buttons instead of using 3d printed so little lest plastic wast and you can drill holes. I'll might do this project

Great project as always!

I made one for myself and it works well. Thanks a lot !

Bravissimo, è un progetto molto molto bello, semplice e soprattutto utilissimo, grazie.

I love you channel a lot! Great ideas - great work - great results. I follow it because I want to learn more EE knowledge. Since I am an mechanical designer (automotive) I guess you know I would design the housing a slightly different way. If you interested in I could support with this king of simple mechanical concepts. Kind regards from Austria

Loved your project

Another great project. I really like this one. Thanks.

Love the shirt! One thing to keep in mind is that cheap Chinese reflow plates can be bought cheaply from china and often are hard to beat. Still, this is a really cool project and can be really useful for smaller PCBs where you do not need a big bulky device.

Nice project, well done!

Great project - well done :)

Excellent project 👍

Excellent project, thank you for sharing.

would be cool to see you make a custom PCB for this instead of breadboarding it

even though I don't use SMD components yet (I am a bit old fashioned) this is a great project

A very creative project. Great!

awesome!! totally a project I want to do sometime, great video!!

Beautiful project

Great project, well done

Brilliant. Everything very good and professional 👏🔥. I will avoid “mode” and I will use temp degree or maybe with a more precise name.

Excellent project!! Excelente proyecto, saludos desde buenos aires, argentina.

Great looking beard! good video as well, keep up the good work!

AMAZING , A PROFEESIONAL

This is an interesting project. Thanks for the video.

Nice newly revise soldering plate

Like always awsome video!

Very nice project! I am interested to try and make one for myself.

Amazing project.. I wanted to own one of these but they were too damn expensive.. but now I can build my own.. Thinking of making a custom PCB and adding a few headers to make the wiring a bit better and probably some fuses as well. Thanks a bunch..

Ouu, good timed, just brought one of these plates.

Keep it up buddy ur rocking it..

excellent project build.

nice build, good project :)

Very great project!!

Great project!

Interesting idea. A couple of remarks; the hot plate screws would look nicer if flush with the plate itself, not only for aesthetic reasons but also functionality. Dealing with hot stuff, you don't want your PCB's to bump into anything and get burned by accident. The cables inside could be tidier, but I get that you aren't selling the product, and you want it up and running asap. Using thermal paste could help with the heat transfer and the PID control if you want to go that extra mile. Personally, I would have gone for a generic metal case instead of the plastic one, just because I don't know at what point the plastic could release some harmful vapours even if it doesn't melt. Also, the display could benefit from being backlit. Overall, a job well executed, please take these remarks as suggestions for a possible iteration. I will actually take some inspiration from your design and make my own, alongside with a Ferric Chloride warmed tub for PCB prototyping and a fume extractor, so it all becomes a unified workstation. Again, great job. Hope to see some more of your creations.

Lovely project.

Well done!

Great project, well done, would it be possible to add a fixed temperature selection mode?

Thanks for the great videos. I have never solder components like this I will give it a try. In the parts description the soldering paste is missing. What soldering paste do you use? where could we buy it?

Great project 👍

This is great! I had to do an ergodox keyboard with surface mount diodes by hand and this would have made that way faster. Can we also expect to see this reflow its own custom PCB?

Nice! Also some great suggestions from the comments.

Thanks for the nice hot plate project! You treated the metal plate as though it were a common item like screws and nuts, but actually this item may be the most difficult for many users to find as they can't simply buy it from AE. It would have been helpful to have explained where you got the plate from or where other builders might find something similar.

Perhaps for safety should ground the heating plate? Otherwise nice work!

Thanks for your excellent project I am a student naw electronic feelt. Thanks

Nice design!

Excellent job ,

Love it ! 👌

Wow! Very good video

Bro, tuve la misma idea hace un tiempo gracias a tu video de la plancha.. Muchas gracias por esta gran calidad de contenido..!! Espero que sigas creciendo cada vez más..!! PD: Quisiera saber si en algún momento harás algún video referente al cálculo de PID.

awsome. keep going

Great work

Good work 👍👌👌

Weldone buddy👏👏👏👏

Love it!!

He probado con la plancha de la ropa, pero esta versión me la hago. Gracias por tu curro

TY for the idea. While trying to adapt this project for my needs, I actually stumbled upon some stuff, maybe it could be helpful to sb : a) regarding protection : the often mentioned grounding of the plate : complete nonsense, as the plate is aluminium and non-conductive. b) ssr protection and runaway protection would be a great idea though (required !!). Runaway protection and "ssr dying in open state"-protection can be done with a 280°/300° thermal fuse c) the way you are trying to pwm the hot plate does not work at all. Why ? Because: The SSR has a defined signal level and is much too slow to react the way you suppose it to react. It will basically just be switched on full power all the time until the thermistor reaches the desired target temp with your code. What is required here is not a pwm heater control, but a full on/off duty cycle control mechanism. PWM means "pulse-width-modulation". Think of it as switch being switched sooo fast, it results in a very high frequent pulse. If you are e.g. having a pulse of 50% ON and 50% OFF state of a 5V based pin - this will result in 2.5V pulsed modulated voltage. So, if you are doing e.g. a PWM of 70% on an arduino analog pin, you will get a pulse modulated output of 70% of 5V = 3.5V. 3.5V will be recognized as signal high => ssr switches on (100%, not 70%). If you`re using a low level input SSR things are just the opposite way, with same problem. What is required here, is a very simple on/off duty cycle instead, that switches the SSR with a very slow frequency, eg. 1Hz. I am doing a follow up on your project right now, with few changes : - improve i2c circuit of your example (I know myself, that it works like you did in your schematics, but "better" i2c circuit is done with 2 pullup resistors, eg. 4.7kOhms to 5V and the SDA& SCL pins of both master and slave I2C connected to the other end of the resistor. - replace buttons with rotary encoder and menu based control - add i2c eeprom to save temp curves - add wemos d1 mini clone with esp-link as wifi bridge (allow remote control & remote flashing of both the Nano & the Wemos D1) - the nano is being used as kind of an "analog slave" to provide more analog pins with 5V and operate completely independent from wifi (to not introduce connection based issues during heating process etc). All heater controls is done using the actual Nano circuit only - the nano does not rely on wifi being established during active processes. - improve heater code - basic idea stays the same though and the wemos d1 mini and the rotary & the eeprom are really cheap additions. as soon as I am done, I will be glad to send you some notes & pictures, if desired.

Nice project

Thank you for sharing the source

You could add a similar sized metal plate next to the hot one to give the PCBs a place to let them cool down.

Excelente bro!

Impressive! 👍😊

Brilliant!

Awesome, mate

Gracias por compartir, en Mexico, el estándar es 110v, sería muy complicado hacer la conversión del proyecto a este voltaje?

Could you please make a video comparing the cost and benefits to do the same project manually components assembly in your lab vs PCB+ PCBA for prototypes in PCB way? I hope that make sense

Thanks for your fantastic and inspiring videos, There is another video request for you. Make a motorised fabirc sun shade for the yard with automatic on/off by pre-defined time periods. I have searched youtube but no video is available on the topic so hopefully u will make one. thanks

Great video

Excellent !

Awesome project! I’m looking into making a pet bottle recycler to covert into 3d printer filament since I have 3d printer spare parts. I could only see a few tutorials in russian which I’m not able to understand.

I like that. Maybe I will make one.

Hello, thank you a lot for all of your videos ! I'm sorry but I can't find an aluminium grid with this size, where did you find yours ? And about the solder plate, did you drill the hole to put a bigger screws ? Thanks again !

Would a US 120v option be possible or would it not have enough power to get hot enough? Would love one of these.

Very cool !

Banana for scale. Nice ;)