@ahcgarage do you have any videos which shows me how to just remove the 07 Acura MDX suv engine without the front wheels and axles and the bell housing from transmission? And are the 04 and 06 model MDX engines both compatible with the 07 model for a engine only swap ? Or are there any mods which prevents use? What are the compatible motors which can be used in place of the 07 model MDX..........04 and 06 model MDX engines ??? Thank you

Cheers!!

All you have to do is show them your compression ratio if that doesn’t convince them they aren’t worth talking to😂

Should I put premium in honda odyssey? Same motor

​@@richardrussell4065it's not turbocharged so no .

@@jonathanwickett7028 roger

same, step by step :)

Yup, ring issue also related to piston design...also VCM issues but that's not the 3.7

Hey, anything I can do to my 01 mdx engine to make it more fuel efficient? And where did you get the updated piston?

Wonder how much to rebuild?

Where did you get the pistons from? Part number?

I ordered the pistons from “Acura parts warehouse” all one parts. All parts total came to about $2,100 give or take.

Thanks for the support

Did you ever replace the piston rings? What would you rate the difficulty of doing so?

Thank you very much

Glad it helps. Thanks for watching

@@ahcgarage hola amigo! Un gran favor. Tengo una mdx 2007 motor 3.7 V6. Se daño de las cabezas y ya las conseguí, por desgracia no encuentro el manual de taller y en ebay esta muy caro, podrías apoyarme con proporcionarme los torques de ese motor? Investigue y solo encontré el de los pernos de cabeza, dice 22 libras pie mas 90 mas 90 grados y si son nuevos serian otros 90 grados. Ahora tengo problema en los tornillos o pernos de los balancines, son de medida 12mm esos no se si van a 17 libras pie como me dijeron. Por último, el retén de los árboles de levas lleva un tornillo que sujeta el engrane de la banda de distribución, ese sabrás que torque lleva? Un saludo desde México

You think these engine require premium fuel?

Would you consider using 5w30 in a VTEC engine?

Couldn't agree more!

Dunno about elegant. The rollers are probably made by the same supplier, i.e., for Mopar. Stinking 3.6L rockers... cheers!

@@Scoot7827 Same rocker supplier as Mopar? Hahaahahah yeah right That’s not Honda

@@Scoot7827 you are seriously delusional if you think HONDA would EVER and I mean EVER use a part off a fucking mopar lmao I swear fucking brain dead they don’t even use other companies transmissions and have always made their own shit and you think they’d use a part off a fucking glorified fiat

@@Scoot7827 cheers low iq dingus

Thanks for the support

The carbon buildup is due to the piston rings being the wrong ones for this engine. Also, apparently system design had something to do with the oil burn and carbon buildup as well. Virtually all of the 3.7 L engines are oil burners. This is well documented.

@@nickr5658 exactly this, besides, almost all V6 engines made by Honda since 2003 have extreme oil burning issues. There are thousands of complaints online regarding this, where every 1k miles driven, requires 1Qt of oil added. Not adding oil before the 5k means not having oil in the engine and completely destroying the engine, as these take 4.5QT.

Keep it up

I've also found out not all premium gas is the same..from now on I'll go directly to one of the oil/gas companies, rather than Cuz'n Jed's or some grocery store gas station. My engine used to make a ticking sound, then my dealer said change where you get your gas. I had already had a valve adjustment earlier in the year. No more ticking noise

That's not a 3.7 so why are you here???

​@@thejake8099 use shell v power nitro

Thanks so much for the support

Glad it helped!

Glad to hear it!

The oil burning only affects 3.7 TL

You think these j37 Acura engines require premium fuel?

Thanks for watching!!!

Thank you!!

Thanks very much for watching

Thanks for watching

Cheers!!

Much appreciated it. Thanks

Thanks so much for watching and support!!

Great!!!

I do exactly same thing on my 07 TL type s. I wait for minimum 1k rpm drop. Usually 30 seconds or a min. And also synthetic oil. 350k miles on mine. Still running good

@@vectorracersame with my TL wait until 1k-7 RPM and go about my day. we care about our cars and it shows

I let my Acura drop to at least 1100 so it doesn’t jerk so hard when you put it in gear engines aren’t meant to have load put on them that early no matter what people say

Thank you

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching as always John. Happy new year!!

Thanks a ton!!

No, that's just not true. 3.7s all will eventually consume oil at some point. I replaced my oil religiously every 3K, and used nothing but shell and BP's top tier 93 octane. Still started burning oil. Acura has had to replace many 3.7 out of warranty cause of this issue. There's also an ongoing lawsuit. And if that wasn't enough, Acura released new designs for pistons and rings so yes they admitted it was a design flaw on their part.

@@supersabrosinho yes you're right. The setup for the pistons and rings was wack. They used lighter weight oil rings which have been changed since then and you can change to resolve it. But they fail mostly bc of how they're driven and taken care of. But this video wasn't the case. I've built more engines than all your local shops put together. This video is a case of bad oil and mostly using regular gas, hence the yellow. Oil would make it dark gas would make it yellow. They do have these issues im not saying they don't but this was caused by the owners is what I'm saying. Not that the setup was wack. I've owned 3 that made it passed 500k miles. They do have issues tho so you're right but I also am on what I said. We're both right on what we said but again in this video it was caused by owners. Also just because yours or others messed up doesn't mean they way they was driven or taken care of didnt play a role. I have the stock pistons and rings from 08. They used a lighter weight but now they use a heavier duty which is a darker ring which they use in hotter climates. Honda fault and owner fault. Still amazing engines if ran right. We build thousands of engines a day at the honda anna engine plant in ohio. I've worked here 9 years, and I've re-worked a lot of those due to line workers or robots. I know all honda engines like the back of my hand ✋ so in honesty I just know what messes them up or their flaws. Which typically is owners. They think they just run. Some oil here and there and some plugs etc. No it's like a baby you have yo be on top of everything. You don't just buy it for 33k you put thousands into it also. They all nickle and dime you at some point. Yours probably messed up due to the last owner. Yes it can still mess up even of brand new. All cars can bc workers do mess up. It's also the oil holes in the conrods. Trust this, it was bad gas and oil in this video not the engine but yes they fuck up bc of old design but can be prevented. And at the point of those rings it would have misfired b4 the bearings went out unless it got ran on low oil often bc of not checking it, again thinking it just runs. It could burn, leak, use oil for many reasons. Engines are science which we at Honda take pride in which is why we're a popular car. A lot of people think they know about cars and problem due but theirs always that guy that knows more and usually he's the one who specifically works on just that brand for the most psrt. There all really similar, every engine. Also I forgot to mention. Bc the fact we use pando to seal most stuff this engine tends to leak near the VT sylonoid fucking things up to but that's closer to 150k miles

My '03 Odyssey has a 6 cylinder 127k miles and doesn't burn a drop. Please explain why?

Good for you. That's a great practice. Wish we all do it.

@@ahcgarage prior owners didn’t really take care of it so I am babying her. I’m staying tuned for more content 🙌🙌🙌

Yeah, I’ve always wondered how Acura/Honda pulled this trick off. While other manufacturers put two cams per cylinder bank on their V6 engine designs for a version of dual VVT. Acura employs an elegant trick to achieve the same thing with a SOHC design. No one has taken these engines apart & explained exactly how certain versions of the J-series work in detail. Many videos on this engine treat all J-series designs as the same… when in fact Honda/Acura have been improving their V6 engine non-stop since day one.

@@MrSamPhoenix I love vtec

@@joshuayammer1994 indeed!

Interesting point... I thought it looked a little different than the J35s I have seen in other videos.

Good to know

Under abuse ..wear far faster than ductile iron sleeves..J35A1

Excellent vid... thanks! I have four Honda/Acura vehicles with J35 V6 engines... oldest is 2013 Accord at 126K miles, and all run like new. 🤞 I have heard that the J37 Aluminum bores are the achilles heal of that engine as the miles add up... they score and burning oil is the usual failure mode. Surprised to see cam lobe wear... could that happen to any J series engine?

That's great to hear!

Some folks ignored the obvious and blamed others for their own failures.

Most people should know, high octane IS a requirement for the J35-J37 engines and it certainly would benefit from synthetic oil. I can attest to no burning oil and smooth Use if my engine on my 2011 MDX with 100k miles. Although I getting ready for the water pump, belts and tune up

@@danielmelendez9943 J32 as well

@@danielmelendez9943 well it might start burning oil soon after 100k but you’re lucky. My 11 MDX always had synthetic oil changes done every 3k. Burns about 1.2 qts every 1k miles

@@JulianRangel13 i took it to the dealership and i had it checked and i was totally lucky..i hope i can do another 50 to 60k miles with minimal maintenance b4 trading in

Thanks for watching

Agreed!

facts

I have a 9th gen AV6 with the J35Y1. I only use 93 octane, and change my oil every 4-5K ONLY using Amsoil SS. It’s a daily with some spirited driving. I burn almost 0 oil and it runs great. I’m at 90K miles, should I replace my PCV?

@@EricTheGreat508 I'd wait until you do the TB, it's not that expensive and takes very little time. Notice the inside of the valve covers when they flip them over. A lot of deposits, they needed better oil, sooner change intervals, a little thicker oil for the cam lobes would've been helpful. When you have particulates floating in the oil between the rocker roller and the cam lobe. As it comes around to the lobe ramp, the film strength isn't keeping the parts separated enough and forcing the particulates to etch into the lobe face. It snowballs from there. Nothing more cost effective than taking care of the oil on an engine or transmission, Diff, Power Steering, etc. You're doing a good job sounds like Eric. As your engine gets more miles it would be wise to change the filter half way through the 4-5k intervals. The TBN of the oil will still be good but the particulates will develop faster in the oil and need to be filtered out. Quick Google; Total Base Number For years, Total Base Number (TBN or BN) has been used as one of the key measurements in the field to help determine remaining oil life by indicating the amount of performance-related additive left in the engine oil. In short, it helps you know when engine oil needs to be changed.

@@robertjackson7590 thanks for your advice! I’m using 0w-20 now, should I be using something thicker like 5-30 as I accumulate mileage?? I know the older J35 engines used 5-30. Or is it best to stay 0-20 and just keep it clean? Appreciate the advice.

@@EricTheGreat508 Yes Sir, I would go to the thicker oil and keep it clean.

@@robertjackson7590 thank you sir!

Cheers!!

Good luck!

Thanks!!

🎄🎄

Unfortunately we don't have that audio clip

@@ahcgarage I see. What if I provide you with a couple of links with similar sound/noise from other Acuras, would you be able to compare?

That's Brian's baby. It gets driven a few times a month. Ha!

Thanks for watching!!

Thanks!

Sadly, the MDXs and the majority of all V6 engines are extremely well known for burning oil. It is considered normal for them to burn 1L every 1k miles.

Thanks very much for your insight and totally agreed with you.

Act like 185k miles is not a shit ton

My 2013 TL 3.7l has 62K miles @ almost 11 years old now. You got your money's worth based on mileage.. If you didn't rebuild this engine I hope you spent another 40-50k on a comparable newer vehicle. Boo Hoo for you!

Could also be time to change the timing belt. The tensioner can make noise when it's cold.

Cheers!!

Indeed it has to do with European regulations, J37 engine is a gas guzzler. I own a Acura MDX 2011 and best mileage on highway is about 20mpg, in the city 14mpg, but when you push down the gas pedal is a blast to drive! Never mind the SH-AWD, legendary power and prowess on inclement weather and getting you out of trouble in snow. Awesome engine but does require maintenance. My engine is now due for new water pump, belts and tuneup.. but my MDX is a keeper!

I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6 automatic. Put some Acura engine parts on the intake and I actually make terrible gas mileage. I get around 24-30mpg (30 usually highway). I have a little obd2 computer thingy

The engines meet California CARB regulations, stricter than Federal US restrictions. Taking into account J35 was introduced before 2000’s, and Dodge/Ford are still able to sell their giant engine models, kind of doubt it’s emissions related. More market “research”, same way barely any cars are offered in diesel and estates are often only offered with lowest trim packages in the US. It’s probably more Honda Japan choosing to make Type R’s available in Europe to fill the performance category. Meanwhile in the US there we’re several models designed and built here. Acura TL/Accord for example two common V6 cars. They are a full size up from the Euro Accord would which here is the Acura version of a Civic. But the USDM market requires more cars since Honda/Acura split the entire Honda product line.

My J35Y1 gets 32-33 mpg hwy.

This is because only the valve cover closer to the front of the vehicle has the PCV Valve. Only one of the heads is doing the dirty work, venting all the grime and soot that inherently comes from PCV. With mileage, age and poorly followed oil change intervals, only the front valve cover builds up all that grime hence the difference in colour. If you use high quality synthetic oils + regular oil change intervals it's really not an issue of concern.

@@joesepherion319 The proposed explanation doesn't work for 1MZFE (didn't have experience with other Toyota V6) - it also has only one PCV valve. I've yet to see an equally clean or equally dirty valve covers on a J-series engine.

That's what filters are for.

Cheers!!