I have no idea what you are doing because it is to fast and not narrated but it does make for good ASMR.

Where are you selling that Right angle magnet… link please

More Chinese junk to add to the clutter and up the price.

Clicked on this as I was curious how it was done there. I teach Code at a local college for apprentices and we do load calculations for homes in a far different way, and the only reason we do it is to determine the electrical service size (main breaker to feed the home) A massive difference we have is ALL lighting and general use "sockets" are simply calculated based on the square meter area of the home (5000w per 90m2, than 1000w for every additional 90m2 or portion of), Ovens, electric heating, electric car chargers all have specific requirements afterwards we add any other load over 1500w at 25% demand if an electric oven has been accounted for. quick and simple.

per nick bundy, seems shite

Ferrules do not cost that much

Pretty cool but $20? That seems a bit excessive for some clippies with a metal plate.

Easy, we have 150% PV, And over 400% groups. My primary rail is limited to 40A per building while mid day 80A would be available. The 80A can flow, but never will there flow 80A on any rail here due to the way I've centered both solar-pv and grid supply.

Subpar to Panasonic screw driver in both speed and torque control

Plastic anchors to hold up a heavy cord all day pulling it off and on. Seems smart

Being able to use an alternative method if approved by a competent electrical design engineer is great, but how many people consult a competent electrical design engineer when adding an EV charger, which probably the most important time to be charging maximum demand?

Who buys Hie lights, they cost an absolute fortune, I saw 3 spike lights priced at £399 this evening, are you fu#king kidding me!!

This video makes very little sense. You talk about *maximum* demand (what you might have to contend with when *all* the high-current devices are on), so you have the capability of supplying them without failure (wiring and fusing). But then you're calculating some kind of average (assuming that not everything is on, or not running at full current). It's certainly NOT a given that someone won't be using an instant heating electric shower while someone else is using the electric stove and one or more hotplates, and electric room heaters are in use around the property. Not to mention that electric ovens of the old design, with simple resistive elements, are either using full current or next to none, as the thermostat cycles, rather than some variable power output inverter. They don't use variable amounts of current, when the heater is on, depending on what temperature you've set them to. If you *are* calculating *maximum* demand, then actually do so. Calculate the highest current that could reasonably be in use at the same time (the shower in use and the stove, a couple of hotplates, one or more room heaters). The average is, of course, going to be lower - the stove is on a thermostat, likewise for room heaters, which individually switch on and off at various times unrelated to each other. But they *can* all be on at full power at the same time. Overall, your electrical system needs to be able to cope with that (fusing and wiring). Our house failed in design to cope with real world situations, such as electric fan heaters running in two bedrooms (incidentally, that's already higher than the fuse rating for the sockets circuit), plus an electric kettle boiling, and the microwave oven at the same time. At some moment everything was drawing full current, and the fuse went. This is a 1965 house, with all wall sockets on one radial going around the house, on a 16 amp fuse. Yes, real fuses - and I prefer them, breakers can fail to break, a fuse wire *is* going to blow. And I don't hold truck with any arguments that some dimwit could put something other than one strand of the correct fuse wire in it. That isn't going to happen here. Anyway, people do force breakers on, and breaker switch parts can weld together, or simply fail to release. Properly wired fuses fail "safe," they don't not blow. But the house was never designed well. All the sockets on one fuse, and a house with no central heating. Of course you're going to run electric heaters in bedrooms, unless you like wrapping up like an Antarctic explorer to try and keep warm, while still breathing in chilly damp air. And most portable electric heaters are very high current devices. Power requirement calculations that aren't based on reality lead to this kind of stupid electrical design happening.

I remember the old electricity boards used to say 40A was what the average house was as a maximum demand.

They forgot to use a rag to remove the magnesium oxide from the conductors after the outer copper sheath was stripped away. Now in damp situations moister can travel past the sealant in the brass pot causing reduced insulation resistance and leakage currents.

Why is the PE not isolated? Never seen that here in Germany. Wagos are always nice. Better than wirenuts, wirenuts are for people who build their houses out of paper...

But if I go into any shop and ask for a lamp they'll take me to bedside lamps and freestanding lamps. They won't take me to the bulbs

Completely glossed over the fact that in one table for diversity for cooking appliance states, take first 10A and 30% of remaining current wheres the other table states, take 10A and 30% full load of appliance. Can anyone clear this up?

Great fun doing these on 240mm 4 core SWA!

Interesting take on the subject. The guidance is to reach a max demand for the property, not for your living arrangements. Add an EV and a heat pump which is the direction of travel and you will see that demand is a critical calc.

When I first started did maximum demand once for a rewire on a 4 bed house, 4 rings, electric shower, electric cooker etc. Came out at like 96A, the fuse was only a 60A, called up DNO and asked them to upgrade the head to 100A, a specialist came out, I explained my maximum calculation via BS7671, the response was: "Nah its fine, we don't use that, tell you what if you ever blow the main fuse tell the guy that comes out that I said you can upgrade it to 80A, it will be fine".... What a waste of time..

The Shelly 3EM can monitor three-phase current or single-phase current. The power supply for the device is on phase A. The newer Shelly PRO 3EM, on the other hand, is power supplied on phase C. The power clamp must be attached correctly. On the Shelly 3EM the arrow points from the fuses to the electricity meter. On the PRO 3EM the arrow points from the electricity meter to the fuses.

Good job,I saw it years ago on dutch television over here,but like I said; Good job mate!! 😃👍

100% guarantee you'll still find plaster all over the cables and in the back box threads

Yea pulled 6 months worth of 500MCM over 700 feet. I hate MI cable. It’s miserable

Easy answer - would you be happy to put your name to it? If no, don't do it!

Pro tip for calculation: lights -ignore. IT -ignore. -smoke -ignore. Number of socket circuits - ignore. Walk around the house and find all appliances that can create significant heat (at least 1000W) and will run for at least 30 minutes. Multiply by 10. Done.

Finally, i still ignore those recommendations. 30W LEDs😅

The message I get from this is that there are too many desk jockeys sitting on their arses dreaming up ways of justifying their existence. I have a 10.3KW instantaneous electric shower and an 11.3KW electric hob, the chances of both of these being in use at the same time is ZERO! I have oil fired central heating (with immersion backup in the event of boiler failure - yet to happen after 21 years) which provides around 50 gallons per day of hot water, if the water runs out (very rare) I just switch on the boiler for an hour. Use common sense; if it is a 3-bedroom semi it is not going to need as much power as Buckingham Palace!

it's amusing the 5A is still allowed for the socket outlet on a cooker control unit.... that was for a 1200w kettle back in the 50s!

I think people underestimate just how much power 100a really is. You need to be doing something pretty abnormal to get anywhere close in a normal home.

The word improve is just clickbait here, there's no point in such plug.

UK plugs are the ugliest things I’ve ever seen, EU plugs are better but still look dumb

I’ve managed 63A averaged over a half hour… that was an interesting night…

Improve how?

When I was in Ireland they had the uk plugs too. My phone charger ofc was European. So I plugged it into the wall and it worked just fine.

As I’ve had a few issue’s now with AFDD’s “nuisance” tripping. Working as it should but certain items plugged in on one circuit don’t trip but on another circuit with some white goods, say fridge on once item plugged in the AFDD trips anywhere from 5-30secs. Should we (electricians) 1st fix to European radial circuits as AFDD’s were designed for said Euro circuits in the first place.

First cable I learned to terminate when I did my apprenticeship as an electrician at the old Nestles factory in Hayes. Practised at HEGTA and did it in anger in the factory….both the factory & HEGTA now all gone…..

Funny. I ordered that in AliExpress the other day

The point about maximum demand is about what "could" be being drawn not what actually is being drawn. A house with 12 rooms would likely be calculated to have a maximum demand that is higher than a house with 6 rooms - but if both properties have the same number of occupants and same appliances the actual demand in that circumstance might be the same - but what if the owner of the 12 room house sells it to a large family - the actual demand would likely increase - the electrical installation must still be able to handle this safely. The demand calculations include lots of spare capacity for this reason - relying on actual usage isn't safe as actual usage changes with circumstances.

You need to put them in Earth but ask a gardener and he will tell you soils. Take off your shoes and get closer to the earth 😂 it’s a lamp you don’t put them in the bloody ground I was told off as an apprentice 😂

Apprentice must've had the day off. Otherwise I i assume you would've just sent them to get the wire stretcher.

Thank fuck the comments cleared up that this video was from April fools day 😂 f*king ryobi would have killed me off 😢

Should have put it on the back side of pipe to protect the wire a little more, if that is regulated?

Ask 100 people on a high street what the item in question is called, the most common answer you get is your answer, regardless if it's technically correct.

Brilliant information chaps. Im sure historically I have not been too far of declaring an installations max demand on an EIC certificate. Next video, could you provide details of a portable version of a data logging device, as I would use for sure.....a device such as this, if affordable and accurate too, would help me sleep better at night.............;)

People tend to forget the hertz diffrence and impact on some equipment aswel apparently. Not the mention the doffrent volt grid's

This topic is very important, please more calculation topics