You'll probably find it's more like 4 to 5kW - some of them are even smaller. The actual 2kW ones, sold as such, have a lower rate pump. I don't think any of the cheap ones are a genuine 8kW, that's all bullchit.

Please do the followup 😉

@@fredyellowsnow7492 yes this is what I'm now discovering... Cheers J

YOU SHOULD PUT THIS IN THE DESC RIPTION AT THE TOP

@@DICEGEORGE good idea. Thank you. Cheers J

LoL thank you. Cheers J

i had the same exact thought :D

Anything they don't want you to have is probably awesome! It's amazing how many things I never wanted, but still have, just because people in power don't approve of it.

Josh thanks for this video, I was quite amused that you were new to the world of diesel heaters but very interesting that you can use alternative fuels. Im new to your channel and having flicked through your content you have a new fan! Very talented and very well presented. Thanks again Mike

Good. I saw an off-grid video capture some exhaust heat. He did it by having the exhaust run diagonally down through an oil drum filled with oil, before exiting through the wall. So he created a long lasting oil radiator for nighttime when the heater is switched off the oil drum still retains heat through the night, also he had are reflector on the wall behind the drum to push heat out into the room. You must have the exhaust going downwards always as it cools because liquid could condense and clog if you run an exhaust uphill. A good downhill run and keep the pipe clean.

@@user-pf5xq3lq8i yeah mate the exhaust angle and pump angle affect the proper ones never mind these cheap copies. People dont realise how well these can run and how efficient they can be untill the really dial them in. Its the controllers ability to adapt to its targets like a car ECU that allows even badly fitted ones to run decent enough for a while but the difference in fuel savings and reliability (especially start-ups) from a well plumbed in one from one that's just been kicked into the corner and fuel thrown in it... is night and day. Honestly the 5kw versions that are sold as the 8kw cheapo model you can get the burner running at like 160deg even down low around the 2Hz mark (5kw usually go to 5.5Hz on the pump) with basic fuel line upgrade to rigid and some tweaking in the hidden menu to get the AFR perfect. Straight out of the box if you have a well made one youl be lucky if the burner is at 125deg at lower settings like 2.5Hz so dialling these things in can save you ridiculous amounts of fuel costs. The upper boundary of what any given 5kw unit will do is when the burner can run around 160-167deg as low as 2.6Hz on the pump with an ambient between 20 and 30deg.. and not need plugs every year because you leaned it out too far. That's the absolute sweet spot for any machine.

@@s1dew1nd3r4 see the Doblo van being smaller you don't need the 5kw (sold as a 8kw cheapo version) For instance a large Scania V8 T-cab only has a genuine 2kw and it can turn the cab into an oven if you leave them flat out on highest setting for more than about 15-20mins down to even -15deg outside temp. Truly the truck ones are all overkill they will even dry your eyes and throat out if you leave them on full power for anymore than a half hour. Based on that the 5kw is overkill for your application plus if you decided on the 5kw to run on low settings you'd still need to run it flat out every now and again to clear it through and on the shut down sequence when the fan goes flat out and it activates the heater plug for the final few pumps its going to near blow your windows out as the 5kw turn into a leaf blower on shutdown sequence. < These are my reasons for why you should go 2kw. Whatever you choose the wiring up side I would tap into and wire from a constant 12v circuit so it never hard shuts down by accident (and melts the guts out) if for instance you had it wired to ignition circuits when you turned the key off you would hard shutdown the unit. Wire it direct to a constant 12v but also add a switch so you can cut the power to the unit so it isn't draining your battery with the LCD controller unit being live all the time. See the switch/ circuit breaker you put in get a decent one and wire the maintenance charger wires on the connectors that are on the wire coming from your constant 12v circuit to your master switch/breaker. This ensures the maintenance charger isn't on the wrong circuit and supplying a charge to the unit itself when the switch is off. You need the maintenance charger to be charging on the live battery side of the circuit and not after the switch. You'd be suprised how many people make that mistake and wonder why their C-Tek or Optimate goes ape on them. The fueling I would get a proper sender unit or make as close to the genuine one as you can or simply just use the 5ltr one you get in the 5kw all in one units or a Jerry can with a diaphragm in the cap or a breather. The noise in cars/vans/trucks/boats can be annoying AF with the pump ticking if you have either hard mounted the pump or it's touching anything. If you are going for an all in one then your going to be stripping it to fit it so on the fitment I'd get the pink rubber pump thing that everyone buys to quieten them down and I'd mount that with rubber bungs and make sure to keep the fuel lines near the pump away from the body of the vehicle as they too will transfer the ticking noise. See the exhaust you need to pay attention to which silencer you buy as there is generally 2 types of cheapo ones, one is good one is rubbish, the good ones have welds around them not just folded and tacked, make sure on fitment of silencer the drain hole faces downward as this is another common mistake. Heat wise as long as the exhaust isn't too close to anything fluffy fabric or anywhere junk gathers up and you're good to go. Aim the pipe back into the direction of airflow to prevent blowback when you are driving, you don't want it blowing the burner out via the exhaust. The hottest part of the entire unit will be the first bend you put on the exhaust underneath it. Personally if I wasn't running it all the time I'd just do it off the 5ltr tank for the all in one or an outboard motor Jerry can you know the ones that already have the fuel line feed and a breather on the cap. They work amazing for these heaters I put them in a lot of the fitments I do on boats.

@@s1dew1nd3r4 if you need proper detailed fitment ideas mate it's no problem. The comment I left above is just my first thoughts on the matter but even when I talk about the maintenance charger I'm thinking you're using mains at a campsite or a genny to charge the battery while the van is in situ. If you're not needing it to be a campervan and not running the heater for 24hr+ with the engine off then you're fine as the 2kw barely use any battery power after the initial start up. If you are keeping the single battery setup in the Doblo then you need it to be able to start the car at all times, the heater controller itself is capable of doing a decent job of that so you would go into the hidden menu and set the "low voltage shutdown" to 11.9v so the unit itself shuts down when it reaches 11.6v not the 10.5v or whatever the unit comes set at. You won't get your engine going if it drains the battery to 10.5v With car batteries they only work well as a 'starter motor' battery above 11.6v anything below this they lose their Cranking ability. Hope this helps further.

A big thanks to all that posted here. I got a lot of useful information. You know that's pretty rare now days.

I had a gasoline heater in my 1967 VW micro bus.(van) smelled like hell.

In America, we had US made Southwind heaters, which I also installed in new VW vans in 1969. They also were a little more dangerous due to gasoline leakage fires@@c50ge

Can confirm, Toyo stoves are fantastic.

about the earky to mid 80s kerosene heaters from japan toyo was 1 brand were popular to heat or supplement heat but k1 kerosene was not too expensive. but today i have only seen buying by gallon or 5 gallon cans at rediculious prices. bear in mindim not in the cold part og the states dont know if stations sell by gallon to your own containers anymore my place stop selling before i moved in 95

18:20. 66. Followed by 33. Cool ...... hoodwankurrrr

@@jar407 Kerosene price today in Britain is £0.82 per litre. That works out to be £3.73 per Imperial gallon. You can do your own maths for the US since you use smaller gallons and dollars...! 😃

Yes I live in Japan and I thought it looked like this. Except they don't exhaust outside, so you need to open a window from time to time. In very cold areas where heat pumps struggle, they're used everywhere. In Tokyo a bit less as it's not that cold. But we still have trucks going around selling kerosene with a little music like an ice cream truck lol.

Thank you. That's great information. Kerosene was much cheaper here if you buy in bulk. 1000ltr used to be £400 not long ago but it shot up to £1200. Cheers J

Spend hundreds of dollars to save a few dollars. 😂

@@kenttegneskog Pffft, what a silly & uninformed supposition. I bought my cheap Chinese diesel heater for only $125 (USD). I previously heated my shop with a propane heater & electric heat. The diesel heater was not only much less costly to purchase but is much cheaper & efficient to operate. My fuel/heating cost for a winter season is about $40. A wood stove might be less costly but requires a lot of time & labor to process wood, maintain it, and dedicate space to properly store the wood. Which method do you use & what did it cost?

@@kst357 i meant if u only spending 40 pity dollar on the winter, but probably spending same in gas to get to the airfield and back, AND it’s illegal. Just to cut the cost from 55dollar to 40dollar

You said it self u only heat cost is 40dollar thats 11 gallon jet fuel

Thank you so much. cheers J

I used a black steel pipe for the exhaust and installed a fireplace fan on top to pull even more heat from the exhaust. I can heat my sun room in the winter in subzero temperatures at the lowest setting. a gallon of diesel lasts about 2 days.

I’ve seen people making stainless steel pipe coils for hot tub heating. One of those used inline with the exhaust would work to use that residual heat.

@@kevb8983 you;d want to make sure they were all sealed up tight, otherwise you'd be leaking CO2 and CO into the shop.

I'm wondering if they don't make heat exchangers for the exhaust To heat the intake air with tye exhaust

@@neok1996 you could, but really it would foule up poretty quickly and need to be cleaned regularly.

Correct, when you do the math it's a little over 5 and the 5 kw they sell is more like 3.5

@@JoshuaDeLisle. reporting for spam

Diesel is easy to work out - it contains 10kWh per litre If he used 350ml in one hour - the machine was producing, *in total*, 3.5kWatts Of which easily half was going out through the exhaust. Just goes to show you don't need much heat energy to warm up a given space - if it's reasonably well-insulated and not draughty. A modest paraffin (kerosene) heater would do instead. No noise. No electrics needed and 100% heat output from similarly energy-dense fuel. Kerosene presently priced at about half the quoted price of red diesel. Small greenhouse heaters can be had for about £30 each Depending on room size (do check this) but in the UK, if the thing is rated at 5kW or less (500ml consumption per hour) you don't need a flue but get a carbon monoxide alarm anyway. Same applies to any fuel, natural gas, butane or propane. And the joy of the greenhouse heater is instant set-up and portability

@@peterbetts8740 Are paraffin heaters safe to use in a resident setting? Those used to be popular in the old days before modern central heating didn't they. You hear horror stories about people dying from carbon monoxide poisoning from falling asleep with one of those running in the same room either due to them being defective or no proper ventilation for the fumes..like you said though it comes down to having proper ventilation and a good carbon monoxide alarm detector. I expect modern paraffin heaters with technology built in are a lot safer than the old ones of the 1950's-1970's era. I used to work for a company which designed and manufactured carbon monoxide detection, measurement and alarm devices for industrial use but I didn't have much involvement in that side of their business. We used to sell a lot of them to breweries around the world I remember though!

​@@peterbetts8740 Agreed. Using mains gas in the UK is nearly 3 times cheaper per Kw/h than using red diesel. Also remember, it doesn't take much energy to heat up air. The problem is, the walls, the floor and all the furniture and items are cold and will slowly absorb heat energy, so as soon as you turn off the heater, the temperature will drop rapidly. The question is, how long does it take to heat up the room and all the items in it. I'm sure it's good for workshops, but not really practical for domestic homes.

it's true but a workshop is so drafty typically the difference is....negligible unless your space is very air tight. Intake should be outside of course when possible.

cold air burns more efficiently because it has more oxygen.

the exhaust pipe is hot. Really hot. It can go lower down the wall before venting outside. Also, slanting the pipe at an angle will help the ambient air capture more of its heat.

True. But make sure the exhaust fumes aren't sucked back up the air inlet

A coaxial pipe would do the job! The exhaust pre heats the intake to avoid running freezing air in the combustion chamber. And only one hole going outside.

Thank you so much, do check out the latest video. cheers J

👍 fight back against big government, big oil and big tax man. Try running on heating oil + a little bit of veg or motor oil (10% mix roughly) should be way cheaper as you can get heating oil for about 90ppl. This is how I know some folks run old diesel motors mix the oil to lubricate the kero but maybe the machines don’t even need the lubricant? Idk how they work

@@ElliHarper An oil boiler basically works the same way, but bigger. Normally they have electrodes with an arc as ignition, but pump wise I doubt there is any difference, so you would think kerosene should be fine. Need a guinea pig 😅

Im in on the vid mate ..

I would be interested in the video. Thanks.

@@ElliHarper wrong the pump is a spring /electromagnet type cannot remember the name . i use one for heating and if using kerosine i add about 50ml of 2stroke oil per tank and that stops pump seizing up. p

@@zeusdagmire6185 a radon detector?? they arent actually a thing. to detect radon requires the placing of 2 alpha particle sensitive plastic discs in a building for 3 months which then has to be sent away to be analysed.

well that was an interesting dive into snakeoil devices. talk about junk. they are geiger counters masquerading as 'radon detectors' if its detecting alpha particles its detecting all ionising radiation. thats why tests kits arent a geiger counter. not to mention that they dont take other sources of radiation into account.

@@joylessdave what are you saying ? a carbon monoxide alarm wont work if it detects the exhaust from the heater ? that you need a radon detector ? naaaaa

@@joylessdave Radon gas is the result of radioactive decay of Radon, most usually found in granite. Radon detectors are used in houses that have granite as their foundation bedrock. Carbon monoxide detectors activate to excess parts per million quantities of the gas produced by the combustion of fossil fuels. 70ppm can lead to headaches. 150-200ppm can cause death. Both gases are dangerous in their own way, but are not the same.

It’s not if, it’s when

Ditto!

Thank you so much. Hopefully lots more to come. Cheers J

Ditto! Love the creativity and, "...insert it into the female receiving end, right." quip😂

Same.

Same here.

Plus, like Big duphus said above, these things don't like a "hard shutdown" which would happen if the AC power suddenly went out and the thing couldn't do it's cooldown cycle first. So your battery and charger idea is much better than just a 12V power supply.

Yes, you are right. I use a car battery and charger. Even if you are powering the heater from the mains, it is good to have a permanently connected car battery as a "safety buffer" in case the electricity goes out.

And campervans for several decades. Odd seeing someone who's never come across such a thing.

How many cups is that? Is your truck a horse power?

@@kennethkeen1234 That'll be a US 3.something litre gallon, as opposed to a proper British 4.54 litre gallon :-)

@@kennethkeen1234 the truck is 450 hp from a 12.7 liter engine. A US gallon is 16 US cups which might as well be cubic femtoparsecs for as well as they translate to normal units.

They originally were truck and boat heaters. Webasto and Eberspacher usually on UK trucks.

Yep, exactly what i was thinking. 12v 120 or 140mm computer fan mounted underneath blowing air onto the exhaust both adds even more heat into the room and will drop exhaust temps i'm betting a fair bit to make that safer as well

My thoughts EXACTLY!

I used to put a cover down the front of the radiator, in real,cold winters, it worked a treat for less cooling of the hot water circulation. Got de-mist faster too. But must be removed in warmer times

Lol I just forwarded this vid and said basically the same when I sent it on to my siblings!

Except I had it a lil more as a 'closed' system with a cooler coil ran out into the cold and coming back to a coil on the exhaust before steaming again

Red diesel is road diesel with a dye added. They are absolutely identical products in every way.

Or even an ATX PSU, you can get old used ones for like 5€, and they do hundreds of watts at 12V To turn it on outside of a computer you just have to short the green pin to any black (ground) pins.

@@LRTOTAL Exactly. ATX PSU is def the best option.

Instructions unclear. House is on fire. Very warm.

Any link to what would be needed to run this from a UK outlet ??

@@LRTOTAL what about a ham radio power supply, they convert ac to dc 13.8v, many like the Jetstream brand sold by R and L Electronics you can adjust the voltage.

Thank you. Yes see my other videos on the heater and the mods I've done. Cheers J

Thank you so much Raj, your very kind. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J

Thank you. Lots more information on this to come shortly. Cheers J

i was thinking of the idea of an old car intercooler, send the exhaust through that with a fan blowing through, extract even more heat...

My uncle made a spiral of exhaust pipe above his woodstove. It is indeed a waste to just let al that hot air flow out

I do just this... A small fan blows across the hot exhaust.. remember to do a dozen minutes of as hot as you can go...!!2orksmbrilliant.

one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.

@@jamiebanyard1792 What an excellent idea using an intercooler .

Also the Mecanyl tubing is self sealing in case of a melt or burn through.

What smaller inner diameter and what hard plastic? any air pressure or car fuel pipe?

Thank you Ryan. Cheers J

​@@joshuadelislewhere we bay it

where do you have yours installed?

@@sonus289 On my boat. I'm on the west coast of Canada so things get a wee bit chilly in the winter months.

Thank you so much. You're very kind. Cheers J

A correction to 1: do not charge a car battery inside. It emits hydrogen while charging. Use VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.

Use an old computer power supply. Easier to manage and doesn't produce dangerous gases.

1. Use a 240v to 12v inverter power supply instead of a car battery.

@Roads To Nowhere it does have enough amps, use an used server power supply from HP or dell, it produces 12.3-12.6 volts, 63-90 amps, search DIY power supply, you have to put a resistor on the pinout for it to turn on and solder your own power leads, if series connecting you must learn to properly float the ground with plastic washers/ bolts/ , they cost $20 each on a popular site you can buy it from. learn something new

#3 is mission critical for indoor, permanent heating...

Fun fact: at -40 you don't have to say F because it's also -40C. It's the only temperature that's the same on both systems :)

hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house. and provide free electricity for life. there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.

Thank you so much. I put in more information on the latest video. All the very best. Cheers J

What exact model have you been using please ? Any link ? Thank you

The way things are going these heaters will probably become illegal and force many people to submit to the large companies who want to monopolize the energy market. I'm using free waste vegetable oil from my local fish and chip shop. Coming soon. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle I'm amazed that they give you the waste oil free of charge! I pay sixty cents a gallon for waste oil here in the U.S. and after filtering and treatment, I cut it with #2 heating oil to burn really clean. Anything to save on heat, it gets down to -20F where I am. Keep up the great work!

People freezing is heartbreaking any time anywhere.

@@genefogarty5395 thank you. In the UK the garages have to pay someone to take it away. Small independent garages will give me as much as I want. Probably not the corporate ones as they have a system to obey. Cheers J

.

Thank you so much. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J

yeah.. they seem to work great and have loads of untapped heat being wasted through the short exhaust pipe there just going straight outside...

@@mgntstr i see a second heat exchanger for the water line or a heat recovery system to preheat the intake air. #damnthatsefficient

Canal boats are the best

Thanks, I was having a hard time not writing that myself. It's intriguing how easily someone will believe BS if it justifies a practice where they benefit but everyone else suffers. There is probably some sort of psychological bias that describes this kind of thinking.

Thank you so much. its a bit tight with the projects I have going on but it certainly has saved me money working in small spaces. cheers J

Thank you so much Bobby for your support. Your very kind and it's much appreciated. I have lots more to bring soon. Including a welder review that is TIG, MIG, Stick, Flux core and plasma In one machine, so we'll see if it's any good and I'll do my best to demonstrate all the processes and my tips I've learned over the years. God you and your family also. All the very best. Cheers J

@@joshuadelisle your very welcome I look forward to seeing more of your videos. I was very impressed with your ability to make things so easily and use your imagination and apply it to different configurations.. you are a very intelligent person who is capable of providing people with the right info to help the less fortunate.. thats something I find amazingly useful.. good luck on your future endeavors and I wish you all the best.. keep doing what you do best.. God bless

@@bobbydamig3231 your very Kind Bobby. I'll do my best to continue helping any way I can. God bless. Cheers J

Very good information. Thank you. Cheers J

True, I use a mixture of kerosene (petroleum) and diesel. At first pure kerosene, which was much cheaper than diesel, but not anymore. Kerosene burns more cleaner and seems to deliver more heat, it also preempts forming curds in diesel when left in cold storage.

Thank you Trevor, I've discovered other factors since so I'll include those in the follow up. things like how to calculate the out put and is it really 8kw, what is the electrical consumption and can we heat water using the exhaust. cheers J

Yes.

Yeah, but the control didn't actually evaluate the output so it's baloney.

@@nickwinn7812 well we were told the size of the room, and we saw the temperature at the start and at the finish by the :-( and happy smiling face :-) Based on the room size and temperature difference it's possible to work it out.

@@Google_Does_Evil_Now It' not possible to be over 100% efficient, full stop. Plus you need to know the heat loss calculation for the room, not it's size.

My thoughts exactly,

I think you'd have to be careful if extending the exhaust to consider back pressure increase.

From another old-timer - I've been using that tequnique for about 50 years also. But I can't remember where I got the idea. I think it may have been when I saw pipe insulation with a pre-cut slit so you could slip it over pipe, rather than wrapping miles of bandage round the pipes.

@@cfc1907 We were using this way before split pipe insulation. I can remember when the only readily available pipe insul was strips of fiberglass insulation; made by the only company that made stuff like that... Weather King... Freeze King... can kinda remember the logo... had lots of orange on their plastic bags. They made those chinsy window insulation kits of whisper thin plastic sheeting & thin pĺastic strips w/ psa. I think I learned the split hose trick from my uncle/Godfather. He had me working in his auto repair at 12. He'd grown up in NJ. A 1st gen Italian-American, he started sweeping floors in a Ford dealership in Jersey City at 13. By age 15, he was a line mechanic for the brand new Model A's. I was nuts about cars. Been building models of real cars from Hot Rod & Car Craft mags. I'd do basic engine wiring, custom radiator hoses, made tube headers from telephone signal wire & the ink tubed from Bic pens & 'sheet metaled the interiors of the race cars w/ card stock painted silver. He figured it was time I worked on the real thing... LOL

In the UK we use the outside grey insulation from domestic wiring. Cut down the side and remove the inner wires and it leaves a U profile soft plastic that grips like a grommet

@@mattydare You must have better wire than we do in the states. Everything here, except very expensive high temp wire w/ silicone insulation, (a dream to work with), uses PVC. It's hard to cut, doesn't hold it's shape, nor have enough elasticity to use the way we're talking about. I hate the stuff; power cords on appliances & tools fight you while trying to coil them, & you haven't lived until you're making a solder connection & one of the stiff azz wires slips flinging hot solder & flux in your face. I'm thinking I may have to wear a full face shield like I use when riding my 9" side grinder. LOL GeoD

@@georgedennison3338 Sorry mate, I'm not an electrician but AFAIK its PVC heat moulded onto copper wire. They use chalk dust to prevent the different layers of insulation sticking to each other so there is always 2 layers of insulation between you and the angry pixies at 240v.

Those politicians should all be forced to go without heat or electricity all winter see how they like it. Accountability and term limits need to be set stat

farrtttttt

Why politicians are not worth the space they take up, but folks still waste their time, liberty and ultimately, life voting for these parasites

enabled by the sheep that believe the lies.

politicians one and all up against the f*cking wall

Thank you. Cheers J

can you tell me more about the water heater? I cant find it online

Thank you Matt. Cheers J

That’s awesome how do you get those to work for a solar system ?

@@zlmdragon. He ran for 1 hour @8kW and used 350mL , so 22.85 kWh

Is your workshop off grid? - I’m very interested in that, and your recycled laptop batteries (what voltage are you using to power the control unit of the diesel heater?)

Hi all. Just too answer some questions. Yep totally off grid, 2 * 230w panels on roof feeding into an epever 30A controller that charges 560 (18650) reclaimed laptop batteries in a 7 series 80 parallel config. So aprox 28V 160A this feeds lights, radio and chargers with d.c and a 240v inverter when required. The heater runs on a 24V to 12V 30A adapter with a max draw off 10A for say 10 minutes for glow plugs, that drops to about 2A when running.

Lol it could be a lot better. I'm making a rig soon to heat my house and supply hot water. Cheers J

An external air intake for the combustion mixture may improve combustion too as the colder air is denser.

@@thebrowns5337 No. You are probably thinking about combustion engines where air density during compression matters, but for a simple 'cold in-hot out' system it is very simple: if the temperature difference you have to achieve becomes smaller with a heat exchanger, you use less fuel.

also it consumes oxygen in the room , so...

@@e.p.4767 also it consume oxygen in the room👍How do you say carbon monoxide poisoning, CO?

@@tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.

Thank you so much and well done 👍. Do check out the follow up video as run more tests and try a few modifications. Cheers J

In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l

@@Harrington2323 it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.

Diesel#2 is regular diesel, Diesel#1 is cold weather diesel. Red Diesel is called dyed diesel or off-road diesel at the pump.

Thank you so much. God bless you too. cheers J

I could imagine. Cheers J

Thank you. The follow up is already published and more to come soon. Cheers J

Thank you. I'm starting to doubt using Chinese products from a sustainability and economic point but who can pay for locally made thanless you build it yourself.. cheers J

Thank you so much. Cheers J

That's good to know. Thank you. Cheers J

I use a 12v 30amp psu. Can be had for £25 on Ebay. Far better than using a battery unless you live somewhere where power cuts are common.

​@@codprawn Since most heat with electric I believe it has more to do with reducing the need for using mains power to cycle it on and off and more of how to keep it reliable and affordable to stay warm in the winter. If you have a solar "generator" you could stick solar panels outside during the day and recharge the "generator" for when you use it at night, since consumes very little when running a 1000w one should be more than enough to run it with just solar charging it. Of course some of those can be used as an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) so it would be topped up if/when the power goes out, of course you will still need to charge it somehow if power remains out.

i also belive its a sound muffler of sorts

That is exactly what it is intended for, the air intake for the heater is suppose to be outside of the vehicle (or building) and the unit itself should be inside.

If flow restriction from ice/frost is a concern with outside air over a small surface area just grab an air intake from a junkyard car, keep a spare filter on hand for a quick fix if it ices over.

The intake can also be inside for faster heating by recirculating hot air that is already inside the room instead of sucking cold fresh air from the outside. Every modern car has the recirculating option.

@@moeman2790 I believe the air intake everyone is commenting on is only for the combustion portion of the heater. The shop air circulates around the outside of the heat exchanger. The fan (shown in the video) blows the shop air over the heat exchanger and out the duct connection. The combustion section is a closed system and doesn't mix with the shop air if the intake is routed outside.